How it is done, how it works, how it works. Master class on processing the edge of the product How to cut corrugated cardboard

How to cut beer cardboard.

HOW TO CUT BEER PAPERBOARD

Very often letters come with questions about how to cut beer cardboard. Cardboard is sold in large sheets of 70 * 100 cm in size. At first, I also suffered, cutting out each piece separately, until an idea dawned on me how this process can be rationalized.

The point is that we first cut a sheet of cardboard into strips of the required width.
Suppose 20 cm each.

1. First - we mark out the cardboard - we measure 20 cm segments on each side.

2. Then take a piece of plywood that is slightly longer than 70 cm - 75 cm is fine.

4. Just don't screw it tightly - so that you can shove a sheet of beer cardboard under the nut!

5. This is how we got an adaptation that can be used for cutting! One end of the nut is locked and you only need to hold the top of the nut with your hand. You can cut with a simple clerical or construction knife.

6. Here I am in the process:

I lean on the cardboard itself with my knee, which prevents it from moving. I don't think it is necessary to say that when we push the cardboard under the nut, we align it according to the marks made.

7. Once the cardboard has been cut into strips, it is not difficult to cut it into smaller pieces on a regular breadboard rug or a small cutter.

ATTENTION! There is one drawback in all this - after a couple of sheets, a groove forms in a piece of cardboard and sawdust begins to fly ... plywood is cut with a knife. There are two ways out: the first is to twist the self-tapping screw a couple of centimeters to the right or left. And so on until the plywood runs out ... and then you can turn it over ... Exit number two: put a model rug on the plywood. There is only one drawback of this method - you need a healthy rug. To be honest, until I opened a workshop, I cut cardboard for all MK just on plywood.

So, an advanced way for advanced users.

If you have to cut cardboard in large quantities and only one size there is another option: Take a large sheet of plywood, put a large rug on it, and make stops from a metal corner.

The long corner prevents the cardboard from slipping beyond a certain length, and the corner from above fixes the width of the piece of cardboard to be cut. The point of all this event is that there is no need to mark the cardboard in advance - you just push the cardboard under the sill and align it around the corners. Lean the nut close to the width limiter corner and cut it off. It turns out a ready-made strip of the desired size, then push the cardboard further and cut it off again. Corners are good to use because on one side they have holes for self-tapping screws - they can be screwed to plywood at any distance. Well, the rug also protects the plywood from cutting through.

In an amicable way, of course, the width limiter corner can be cut into different sizes and several pieces and screwed on as needed. But the fact is that then you will have to twist the nut to a new width. And ideally aligning the width of the top corner and the distance of the nut so that they are the same is quite difficult. I corrected the errors by gluing a little bulky tape to the corner - it's easier to fix it than twisting the self-tapping screw 1 mm to the right or left.

FOR A LONG TIME I DIDN'T TAKE A CHECKER :))))

Namely, I did not write MK to the blog :))) I will start to improve on the sly :)))

But first, I want to remind

USE THE SYSTEM OF LABELS IN BLOGS !!!

I hope this will be useful for you and me :))) Since, from the readers, I am waiting for comments. Maybe something is not clearly described ... Somehow I have doubts that I clearly conveyed the movements with a pad.

So, let's begin:))))

For decors, 2-2.5mm thick gray or white cardboard is used as a base. Gray and white cardboard of this thickness is not easy to cut. White is harder to cut (its layers are more compressed), gray is easier. But all the same, you will not cut any of them the first time. It is necessary to carry out several times with a breadboard knife with medium pressure in order to cut through the cardboard. Don't try to do this in one go.

HOW AND WHAT TO CUT CARDBOARD

To cut this cardboard more easily, you need to use good dummy knives. I recommend BUILDING dummy knives, which are abundantly sold at any hardware store. They are powerful, their blades are thick and will not bend when cutting thick and hard materials.

My undisputed favorite is the trapezoidal knife with a heavy metal handle (yellow in the photo). He generally cuts plain paper like butter. I use it for both cardboard and paper

This is his blade.

It is made of thick metal, does not bend, with sufficient force. Thin blades can bend and then the cut of the cardboard will be vertically straight at 90 degrees, and slightly at an angle, inward or outward, i.e. the edge of your piece may be beveled.

Sometimes, I also use a traditional dummy knife (pictured on the left). He is also building and powerful enough. But its blades are thin compared to my favorite. They can give an oblique cut.

Why do I pay so much attention to knives ??? Because the better and sharper the knife, the easier it will be for you to work with cardboard. And the more high-quality and good cut you get. The less work you will then have to bring the edge of your product into its proper form.

In addition, knives and scissors quickly become blunt from paper, this fact has been known for a long time. So expect your knife blades to dull pretty quickly, especially when cutting white cardboard.

It is not always possible to cut cardboard perfectly, so that its cut is perfectly smooth (it must be even) and without burrs. Although a very sharp knife will always help to avoid burrs. But even if the cut is good, it is still necessary to process it with sandpaper to give it a "marketable" and finished look.

HAPPY

I prefer to use an emery pad. It is very convenient for machining both large and small parts. The pads are sold in all hardware stores. I use one of the smallest emery. If we talk about a pad, then this is 100, and if about sheets of sandpaper, then 400-500.

I rarely use sandpaper in sheets, only if I need to sand down any slight DEEPENING or CUT-OUT FIGURES INSIDE THE CARDBOARD BILL, then I cut off a piece of sandpaper, wrap it around my finger and grind it.

But in general, I have a very convenient toolkit for processing all kinds of non-standard places, corners. This is such a set of files and files.

I bought this miracle ash in 2009. Then the set was in scrap stores in the States, now I think you can search on ebay.

These are the tricky places I process with pieces of sandpaper and file files.

IMPORTANCE OF PRODUCT EDGE PROCESSING.

Here is a photo showing processed and unprocessed sections. An untreated cut can be slightly exaggerated, you can cut it off more accurately, the main thing is a very sharp knife. But do not forget that cardboard is a collection of compressed layers of paper, and paper is a fibrous structure. And when you cut cardboard, you cut along the grain as well as across. And the cut quality will be different in both of these cases.

Here are some photos

Raw cut and edge of the cardboard blank.

Finished cut and edge of the cardboard blank.

It is equally important to sandpaper the edges of the product GLUED WITH PAPER. When you go over the part with the already pasted paper with sandpaper, you, in addition to removing the roughness on the cardboard itself, kind of “BREAK” the cardboard and the paper glued to it between you. In addition, if you cut and scrap the paper before sticking to cardboard, then the "sharp" cut resulting from the knife is also removed by grinding. Cut a piece of paper with a breadboard knife and compare the resulting cut, with the cut on the sides of the industrially cut scrap sheet, and you will understand what I mean.

See how neatly the sanding edge looks. Paper and cardboard seemed to have always been together.

Do not forget that it is necessary to sandpaper ALL SIDES OF YOUR DETAILS, including the inside out of any detail, and it does not matter whether the viewer sees it or not. The neatness of all work consists of the neat execution of each of its elements. As my mother says, "the thing should be sewn so that it would not be embarrassing to put it on the wrong side" :))))

AT WHAT MOMENT OF WORK TO APPLY THE EDGE OF THE DETAIL

The basic rule in my works:

ALL DECORATION ELEMENTS FIT ON CARDBOARD

In addition to the sheet of the basis of the decor, a painted drawing is also planted on cardboard, and all the elements that adorn the decor: tags, pieces of paper with inscriptions, flags, stickers, etc.

AND EACH ELEMENT MUST BE SUBJECTED TO PROCESSING WITH A PRESSURE CUSHION.

So, you have cut out a blank of the sizes you need from cardboard. Now you need to glue your blank with paper. Then there are two options:

1.your cardboard blank will be pasted over with paper edge to edge (the edge of the cardboard and paper will have to match in the finished product)

2.you will leave cardboard margins. (I usually leave 5-7 millimeters of cardboard margins, but maybe more, it all depends on the specific decor)

In both of these cases, we act a little differently.

Option 1

The cardboard blank should be cut with a margin, 5 mm larger than the blank from a sheet of scrap paper on each side. In this case, the quality of the cut of the cardboard blank is not very important to us, the main thing is that everything is smooth.

Next, we glue a sheet of scrap paper onto a cardboard blank. In this case, we either leave the margins of the cardboard on all 4 sides of the scrap paper sheet, or we combine one edge of the sheet and one edge of the cardboard, and the other 3 sides will be with margins. It looks something like this

After the glue has set, the margins are trimmed using a cutter and a metal ruler. It is necessary to very accurately match the edge of the ruler and the edge of the scrap sheet.

If you are planning a piece, reinforced with cardboard, smaller than the size of the scrap sheet (for example, a scrapbook page, maybe 15cm by 20cm), then we act the other way around, with an allowance of 5 mm on each side we cut out a sheet of scrap paper, not a cardboard base , the cardboard base must be finished in size.

We glue a sheet of scrap paper to a cardboard blank

Turn the piece over with the pasted paper side down, and cut off the excess paper. The end cut of the cardboard acts as a ruler.

All this is done to ensure that the edges of the cardboard and the edges of the scrap sheet coincide exactly, this gives your work a neat, "industrial" look. It is very difficult, with an accuracy of 1 mm and 0.5 mm, to cut a cardboard blank to the size of a scrap sheet. And if the scrap sheet must also be cut to a certain size ??? The error can accumulate, and it will not be beautiful if the cardboard looks 1mm out from under the sheet. And 1 mm of cardboard, evenly and well cut with a breadboard knife from the category of the impossible. If the sheet hangs over the cardboard, then of course it is easier to cut it with a breadboard knife than the extra cardboard. But why risk it ??? The margin method will give you a 100% guarantee that the edges will match.

You can't do without cardboard in scrapbooking. There are not so many types of scrap cardboard, but there are some nuances that you should know about!
Cardboard in scrapbooking is mainly needed for making album covers and notebooks, for album pages, for boxes and chipboards.

Binding cardboard

Binding cardboard - gray-brown cardboard with a density from 950g / m2 to 2000g / m2, various thicknesses - from 1.25mm to 3mm.
The higher the density of the cardboard, the greater its strength, the more difficult it is to cut it to the required size.
Binding cardboard is very often referred to as "cover" cardboard. It is intended for the production of bindings and covers of books, folders, albums, diaries.
For scrapbooking, a binding board with an average density and strength, no more than 1.5-2 mm thick, is suitable. It is cut with little effort, but it is strong enough that it can be sewn on a typewriter.
Thicker cardboard is much more difficult to cut and, if it is slightly bent, it is difficult to straighten it. If you need to make holes, then it is rather difficult to enter the hole punch. Although it lends itself to a sewing machine, at least one like the Singer.
Binding cardboard is indispensable for covers. In albums where weight and bulkiness are important, such as a large generic leather-bound book, only binding card will work for both the cover and the pages. With 1.5 mm thick binding board, a 30x30 album with 10 spreads weighs 2.4 kg. This is a tangible weight! And the album in the same size and number of spreads from beer cardboard weighs only 1.6 kg.

Chromium-Erzats cardboard

Chromium-ersatz cardboard is a thin boxboard made of bleached and unbleached pulp, wood pulp and waste paper, coated and uncoated. It has a density from 220 g / m2 to 520 g / m2 and a thickness from 0.3 to 0.7 mm.
Chromium-ersatz cardboard is widespread; it is used for packaging, as a rule, small-sized, lightweight products. In scrapbooking, it is used to make boxes - "mother's treasures", gift boxes, etc. This type of cardboard is not suitable for album covers and pages due to its small thickness - a maximum of 0.7 mm. Chipboards made of this type of cardboard turn out to be grayish due to insufficient whiteness of the starting material. The edges of these chipboards can burn and darken when laser cut.
You can use Chrom-Erzats cardboard for making blanks of postcards, followed by pasting with scrap paper.

Beer carton

Beer cardboard - white cardboard with a density of 500 to 660 g / m2, a thickness of 1.1 mm to 2 mm.
Cardboard is called "beer" due to the fact that it is often used to make a stand for a beer mug. Consists of many thin layers. Easily cut with a cutter, much worse with scissors. Not flexible, may break if bent.
Beer cardboard works well for album pages. In the covers of large 30x30 albums, it is better to use a denser - binding cardboard, in order to avoid accidental deformations and damage to which the cover may undergo
Also, beer cardboard is ideal for making chipboards. Thanks to its milky shade, it blends perfectly with any background color. When cutting with a laser, the edges of the chipboard do not smoke or darken.
At Art Scrap we manufacture our chipboards exclusively from 1.15mm beer carton.

conclusions

1. Binding cardboard: for covers (up to 3 mm) and for album pages (up to 2 mm).
2. Chrom-Erzats cardboard: for boxes (from 0.3 to 0.7 mm) and blanks of postcards.
3. Beer cardboard: for covers (2 mm), for album pages, for chipboards (1.15 mm).