Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory" (DeAgostini). Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory" (DeAgostini) Homemade cannon port frames

Not so long ago, we discovered on the popular Model Ship World forum dedicated to ship modeling, the most interestingoverview battleship HMS Victory on a scale of 1:84, published by the contributor Canoe21. Since not everyone can boast of a good knowledge of English, but many may be interested in this step-by-step review, we decided to publish a translation of this review on our blog. All interested and just curious, welcome on board.

Greetings to all colleagues and participants of this forum, my name is Lorenz and I am publishing under the nickname Canoe21

My precious wife, Bernadette, gave me a gorgeous 1:84 scale 1:84 build of the 1765-built battleship HMS Victory as a Christmas present. The manufacturer of the whale is Artesania Latina. True, Bernadette immediately asked me to start construction no earlier than December 25th. Imagine my feelings, considering that she gave me the set at the end of October. It was extremely naive on her part.

Finding myself a scale model with a lot of detail, I couldn't wait to start building. At first, I spent a lot of time studying the assembly instructions in detail. Then I began to search the Web for the history of the ship, as well as everything connected with it. While searching, I stumbled upon the Model Ship World (MSW) forum and spent many fascinating hours researching HMS Victory reviews.

Soon after, I signed up for an account at WSW and continued to read reviews of the buildings of various sailboats, simultaneously amazed at the gigantic amount of work and the various techniques that WSW participants describe.

During the autumn and winter, I published more than once in one or another thread, and after numerous prompts from the participants, I decided to start my own review of the building. I confess it was a very interesting experience. Maybe even no less interesting than the construction of the HMS Victory itself.

Immediately I will make a reservation that in my work I was guided not so much by instructions as by data obtained in the course of my historical studies. Due to a lack of experience, I was not always able to achieve the desired result, but it seems to me that my homemade parts go much better to the ship than those that were included in the kit.

The first element for replacement was the binnacle. The one that was in the set categorically did not suit me, as it was too miniature for such a large-scale vessel. Besides, he looked a little rustic. I know my binnacle is far from perfect, but I think it is more suitable for a large ship like the HMS Victory. I must admit that after I finished working on it, I had to lower the navigation tools a little, because they were not visible in the windows.

Here it is in the making

And here is already ready

So, despite Bernadette's requests, I started work on the ship back in November. In addition to work on the binnacle and skylight, I assembled and secured the keel frame, and also made a working stand for the body, upholstered in places of contact with silicone tape.

I think not the first time is enough.

Good luck! Lorenz.

An overview of the construction of the battleship model HMS Victory. Part 1.

I have long wanted to collect something more substantial and larger, and I, knowing in advance that my beloved husband would not refuse me a birthday present of my choice, of course, asked for a set of the ship! Since then, I have spent whole days on the Internet in search of "big, beautiful and complex." It was only natural that my eyes burned and my hands itched at the sight of the Wasa, Soleil Royal, Prins Willem, La Superbe and sovereign of the Seas models. In general - the lip is not stupid.

I avoided HMS Victory and Bounty - they seemed to me not very interesting, since they are collected many and often. But fate, as usual, did not particularly listen to my own opinion - having poked into a couple of model stores, I still could not leave in one of them a large (and for me, like in cartoons - shining) box with HMS Victory. Deciding that "well, let many collect it, but it is big and beautiful, and that's exactly what I wanted!"

In general, our family budget has slightly decreased, but I became the owner of a wonderful set of Mantua - HMS Victory. And, if not for the seller with a stern face and the weight of the box, I would have jumped with this box in an embrace and sang with happiness :).

Of course, when he came home, everything was pulled out of the box, laid out and carefully studied. I chose the attic as a workplace for myself (and what is very convenient - you can saw, and sharpen, and sand, and paint, and at the same time not interfere with anyone). By the way, I must note that my husband, when I worked in the room, was not outraged by the smell of paint or wood dust, but quite the opposite - he really likes my passion for ships, and we often sit together over instructions, discussing that how to collect. In general, after a thorough inspection of the box, I came to my husband with an impressive list of tools that were "very well!" are needed.

Finally, having got everything I needed, I got to work.

What I really like at the very beginning is the assembly of the frame. Suddenly, out of nothing, it’s almost a ship. Immediately, the imagination begins to outline the "skeleton" of the ship with wood, decks, cannons and rigging.

And I want to hurry up, so quickly. But I have to constantly stop myself, because from the very kindergarten I was hammered into my head with the proverb - "Hurry - you will make people laugh", since then I try to first "measure seven times" and only "cut off once".
After trying on the frames, making sure that each of them is exactly where it should be, I glued them. While the glue was drying, I measured and cut the jumpers to which the guns will be attached later.

Jumpers on the HMS Victory hull, where the dummy cannons will be attached.

According to the instructions, after the frame is assembled, the decks should be installed. I know that many people prefer to first sheathe the hull with rough sheathing and only then install the decks. Maybe I will do just that next time (because it is very inconvenient to mask the gaps between the deck and the skin afterwards, if the deck was glued and laid before the skin). On the other hand, it was very convenient for me to do the markings and deck flooring not on the ship, but on the table.

I decided not to fight over the eternal question "how to fill the seams", but just before the sticker one edge (and the joint, respectively) was blackened with a marker. Here is the result.

Blackening of joints on deck.

When all the decks were in their rightful place, the first hull plating began.

After a not very pleasant experience in bending the rails on the previous ships, I finally got hold of this wonderful instrument from Amati (what does it sound like, eh - “a tool for bending rails from Amati” :)). I must say that he helped me a lot.

And where without a nail (again, after the not very pleasant experience of hammering in nails with the help of small pliers and a hammer). True, this nail broke quite often and at the most inopportune moments.

On the advice from the site, after the body was sheathed, I decided to close up the cracks with PVA glue and sawdust. The sight, I must say, is pathetic ...

HMS Victory body during filling.

Oh, what a pity that I didn’t know what a wood filler was yet ... But nothing, and that also worked.

And now the first cladding is already ready - the cracks are sealed and everything is carefully sanded.

I know that many people prefer not to use studs for finishing planking. But the holes left after them seem to me even pretty, and working with them (with carnations, that is) is much more convenient and faster.

The use of studs for finishing planking.

So, I proceeded to the finishing plating with the same nail and "tool from Amati".

Stud marks on the bow of the HMS Victory.

A little patience and diligence, and now the finishing plating is coming to an end.

Completion of the finishing cladding of the HMS Victory.

Finally the whole body is covered and sanded. Glued "blank" under the stern. And all this together is very pleasing to the eye. At least mine :).

The set included a cardboard template for cannon ports, which is quite convenient for marking, after all, there are 52 ports on each side (now I specially counted), plus a hatch, plus two more ports at the stern. In total - 108 rectangular holes need to be cut!

Application of a template for cannon ports.

In the instructions in the picture, everything is nowhere easier - I drilled four holes in each corner and carefully cut it out with a knife. Just to spit, - I decided and started ... Lord, if I knew what I have to do now! Those unfortunate four holes drilled in every corner of the port were of no help. I had to drill more holes - eight or even more. Then cut it out with a knife, which was also a problem - a double layer of wood, and even with a layer of glue, cut nontrivially, let alone cut a square in it ... In general, the result does not shine with beauty in the end. The mood is spoiled, hands are calloused, clothes are covered with sawdust and shavings. I was offended at everyone, went to swim and sleep. The morning is wiser than the evening.

Returning with a fresh head to my long-suffering ship, I realized that I still hadn't thought of something. It was necessary to paint the lintels for attaching the cannons black in advance. Well, it doesn’t matter, better late than never (well, I’ve already started writing poetry).

As a result, my ports are cut out, and the inserts are painted in half with grief.

I painted the frames of the ports red (inside) in advance, it's time to insert and glue them. Then I was faced with another "ambush" - the frames are crooked, ribbed and in general ... Well, where is that good for ?!

Calm, calm. All is not lost yet. The frames are still glued. Then they are smeared (with great care) and hides themselves. And, in the end, everything is not so bad as it seemed at the beginning. You can continue with a calm soul and a clear conscience.

HMS Victory cannon ports ready.

To be honest, I didn't want to cover the bottom with copper (and it was not in the set). Covering the body with black paint, striving to resemble the original - too (well, I'm sorry to paint a noble tree, I'm sorry!). I stopped at what was suggested in the instructions - to make yellow stripes. Scary ... I've never painted wooden ships before. The paint is selected, the brush is at the ready. Well, with our blessings, let's get started.

Like many other modelers, in particular Sergey Kavtorov (), whose review I used during the assembly of HMS Victory, I have an assistant-assistant (and Sergey had a son as assistants, as I understand it). I must say that the slats are an excellent toy, it is very convenient to lie on the drawings, and apart from the boxes from under the ship, there is no better and more comfortable "bed". So that's it.

With the help of a cat, I painted the top of the case and glued on the "intermediate" strips. I decided to use the result in such a still life (And don't say that a ship cannot be used in a still life! Still life - in fine art - an image of inanimate objects (looked at Wikipedia)). To be honest, I took this photo for a photo contest (photography is another hobby of mine).

Every time when some stage in the assembly is finished, I am faced with the problem "What's next?" The instruction does not help me very much here - it is, as it is not always clear, and not always consistent. For many questions, I used the Internet more often than instructions and drawings. So after painting, I thought for a long time what to do next. I decided to tidy up the stern.

You will forgive me, but since I am a woman (though not quite blonde), I very often do not know what the names of certain parts of the ship are. So here, too, I'm not entirely sure that the part with the windows is called the stern (now I found in the dictionary of terms that this part is called the stern superstructure) ...

At the very beginning, I really wanted to make lighting in the windows, but since I am no electrician (my dad is an electrician, but I have not lived with my dad for a long time), I had to be content with blue paint.

The side parts did not fit close to the back, so I had to make wooden inserts between them.

From the stern I went to the bow (I would say “from the rear to the front”, but you will laugh ;-)).

First, she covered the bow deck with slats (it probably has its own name). Then the time came, I don't even know what to call it, doors (?) / Decorations (?). Let's call this part nicely - a false panel. False panel with doors. This false panel was almost ready (a thin yellow sheet of wood with a ready-made extruded pattern), it remained only to glue the side parts to the forms, and the middle part just between them. This tree bent with difficulty (even a little steamed and with the help of the "tool from Amati", as advised in the instructions). And it turned out not very neat - the black part of the drawing cracked and got a completely unpresentable look. To correct my mistake, I had to paint the side parts brown (I know, I know that all these parts, in theory, should be blue, but somehow I don't like it, I'm sorry ...). I also painted the yellow parts of the picture. Gold. It seemed to me more solemn. The upper part (which was also painted in brown and gold) was installed on the false panel.

"False panel" HMS Victory.

After that, I installed the bow frames, grilles (from the same yellow wood) and side parts (here I am really at a loss as to what these side parts are called). All these details, including the nose (and further from the nose - the entire keel), I painted brown. All of them are made of plywood, and leaving all these layers on display is simply ugly.

As a result, my nose (uh, that is, the ship) became more impressive and interesting.

While the paint was drying, I drilled holes in the future anchor beams (if I was mistaken in the name, sorry). I had to drill by hand, since the 1 mm drill does not fit in the chuck of my drill (and I haven’t bothered to buy a suitable chuck yet, although I should have). Fingers get tired, but the result is pleasing.

And so, the design of my nose (again a typo, the bow of the ship, of course) was replenished with two new details. I also later painted the supporting corners brown, since they are also made of plywood.

By the way, I didn’t have enough inserts for the cannon ports, either because of the manufacturer’s "oversight" or because of my own absent-mindedness (although in the photo on the box all the frames are in place). I had to cut the top ones by hand. After I made the inner lining (from the deck side), I had to grind and glue the frames, glue them on each side, fill the inside with putty and finally paint it red.

Homemade cannon port frames.

Now about the bottom of the stern. In my opinion, it should be called a transom. Oh, and I suffered with her, that is, with him. It is not for nothing that they say that you should learn only from your mistakes. I was delighted with the ease of use of the placeholder tree and used it with a sweeping gesture. After the first varnishing of the lower part of the ship, I finally realized what a great foolishness I had done. In my defense, I note that the slats are really not ideal and quite often there are quite large gaps even on a flat surface (which I got used to mask by dripping a drop of glue into them, I immediately erase it with a napkin so that the glue remains only inside the gap / hole, and then I just walk next to it with a sandpaper. Thus, the gap is filled with wooden dust of the same color and is not blown out from there, and, accordingly, there are no glue streaks).

In general, horrified by the appearance of my stern, that is, the transom (it's good that I didn't write “the look of my bottom” :)), I sanded it properly (to remove the varnish) and recoated it (right on top of the old slats).

As far as possible, I will try to lay out the following parts of the review on the construction of HMS Victory Mantua. This, of course, if there are no fatal (and, even I am afraid of this word, fatal) errors for the model on my part. Thank you for having the patience to read all of the above.

Admiral Nelson's ship "Victory" magazine with parts for assembling the legendary ship. Publisher DeAgostini(DeAgostini). Build your own model of His Majesty's ship Victory. This is the flagship of Admiral Nelson, the legendary participant in the historic naval battle - the Battle of Trafalgar.

Each issue collections The ship of Admiral Nelson "Victory" includes a set of high quality parts for building this beautiful sailboat model. You will receive everything you need, including sails, flags, cannons, and even metal figurines depicting Admiral Nelson and the sailors from the ship's crew. Every time you can use the detailed step-by-step assembly instructions, which describe each stage of work. In addition, on the pages of the magazine you will find interesting information about the great era of sailing ships. Learn more about great naval commanders and outstanding sailors, famous ships and fierce battles!

Ship model

In the magazine you will find everything you need to create a unique Admiral Nelson's ship model "Victory" High Quality!

Ship modeling allows you to acquire a wide range of skills and abilities, as well as learn a number of special techniques for making sails and tackle, their coloring and finishing. Even if you didn’t have any experience in making models until now, you will be able to assemble your ship "Victory", moving from one stage of work to another and gaining skill during assembly.

You will start with the details from the first release Victory magazine, start building the bow of the ship and collect the first cannon, which was part of the weaponry that terrified the enemy. Over the next weeks, you will assemble the hull, add the rest of the cannons, and set up deck equipment and accommodations for the admiral and his officers. Then you can add crew figures - including Captain Hardy and Nelson himself. Finally, adjust the masts, hang the sails and set up the tackle.

Victory ship model size

Magazine

Discover the secrets of the Victory, the renowned British battleship of the Battle of Trafalgar and now housed in the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard Museum Complex in the south of England.

Sections of the magazine Admiral Nelson's Ship "Victory":

- Find out how Admiral Nelson became a national hero, how the life and career of the great naval commander developed, and what is the significance of his outstanding victories.
- This section of the magazine "Victory" allows you to get an idea of the design of Spanish, British, French warships, their weapons, the peculiarities of the construction of wooden sailing ships. It also outlines the basics of naval tactics and methods of controlling ships.
- Each magazine has a well-illustrated spread on which you will find descriptions of famous ship models. A detailed story about the creation of these masterpieces will allow you to understand and appreciate the work of artists and modelers.
- This section will allow you to correctly build the Victory model by detail. it explains all the steps involved in the various stages of the build, and provides helpful tips to make building a model fun.

Release Schedule

No. 1 - Parts for assembly, DVD disc with all stages of model assembly - 01/26/2012
No. 2 - Parts for assembly - 02/16/2011
No. 3 - Parts for assembly

How many issues

A total of 120 issues are planned.

I put the ship aside. And she took up the stand. For a change, this is useful.
The blanks for the stand were included in the set - a board and four curly sticks. I covered the board with walnut strips - I collected all the remains from the hull plating that I found, but they were still not enough - I made the most central strip from a completely different strip, but it lay there almost perfectly.

The curly sticks had to be sawed in half to make corners out of them. With grief, I sawed in half (the tree is very hard), sanded the ends, glued them together and put (glued) a plank on the resulting corners.

After the glue dries, I smoothed the edges of the planks. She fumbled everything. And she also glued the slats to the ends.
Then I picked up the sticks for the stand itself (or "stand" place), cut them. First I glued two pairs in which the keel will be held.
Then I assembled and glued a clever design under the holders of the sides of the case.

From rather thick slats, it was necessary to grind such future holders with narrowed ends.
I suffered for a long time. I used up a bunch of sandpaper, knife blades (planed too), rubbed calluses, ... But, I brought it to the end! And don't say after that that I have man's hands!

I glued everything in place, waited until the glue dries and tried on the ship to the finished stand. (In the process of assembling the stand, I, of course, also tried it on more than once.)

Keel stood up straight.

The sides of the body - also lay down as it should (still - so much to adjust these damn side bars!).

And in general - the ship stopped, it seems, normally.

She removed the ship from the stand, put it on an already amalgamated piece of Styrofoam and varnished the stand.

While thinking about the next step of the work, I installed two carronades in their places. And I also put pins on the glue, on which the ends of the running rigging will be fixed.

Having decided that the next step would be to install the grid, I proceeded to this very installation.

I didn't like just gluing the ends of the mesh to the thread, as stated in the instructions, - from the instant glue, then a white bloom will appear, which is not good and aesthetically pleasing. I decided to fasten the mesh with a thread, threading it through the holes and spiraling it along the stretched "rope".

This work turned out to be rather tedious, monotonous and long. If I am not mistaken, I spent about three days fixing the grid (of course, not continuous work).

Well, after that I finally decided to start tying the manhole covers. First, I drilled holes for the ropes with the smallest drill I could find - 1mm. Then I made a trial version of the suspension - as advised in the instructions, I strengthened a thin light thread in the drilled holes, tied a lid to it. Looked at it. Cut that rope off, concluding that dark or black rope would look better for gun port covers. And she did it all over again with a thicker black thread.

I read somewhere that it is not always "if this or that detail on the ship model looks good, then this is normal / it should be." I think that here I made just such a mistake - it seemed to me that the threads of the cannon ports should be darker and thicker, although, in fact, rather the opposite - lighter and thinner. Well, okay, I did and did, which I do not regret, although I mean for the future.

After all the caps were hung on the ropes, I finally (waited a long time for this moment!), Installed all the guns on the lower decks (not without glue).

I had to make the uppermost and closest port to the stern half-closed (on both sides of the ship), since there was no crossbeam into which I could insert the cannon (either I forgot it myself, or a mistake in the instructions). And also, I also had to make one of the ports on the left side half-closed - there was a damaged hole for the gun (it spoiled it when drilling) and the gun did not want to stay there.

The moment has come for the next contemplation of the result of the work. During this very contemplation, I became convinced that the photo-etched, flat, primitive and inexpressive stern does not go to such a ship in any way (this belief was also supported by someone's comment on another model of Victory from the same manufacturer as mine). Definitely not!

Well, you need to look for a way out of this situation. I don't want to completely redo the stern. I really don't want to. So, perhaps, I will make overhead columns at the stern to give it (stern) depth and relief.

Columns are good. But where to get them ?! Approximately 1cm. in length, about 0.5 cm in diameter, preferably the same both above and below. And these columns need about 110 pieces.

First of all, I persuaded my husband to go to a model store - the only store in Brussels that has exactly what you need on sale - material and some parts for models of wooden ships. Imagine my disappointment when it turned out that this store was closed forever due to the retirement of the owner. Hands dropped, as did the nose ...

Arriving home, I seriously started looking for online stores where there are the details I need. The first searches, of course, were unsuccessful. But! The one who seeks is the one you yourself know.

I found the columns that fit me perfectly! In the same online store, there were cannonballs that do not come in the set, but which I would like to have. There were also overlays for the cat-beams in the form of a crown (especially for Victory, by the way). And also the barrels, which would perfectly complement the detailing of the deck. Yupiiiii! So many interesting things and I want it all right now!

Well, it didn't work out now. I had to wait about a week for the package to arrive. But then, with great pleasure, I took up both the "improvement" of the stern, and the fastening of the newly acquired parts.

First, of course, I tried on the columns. I decided that, in general, it looks good.

I washed off one side and glued the first row.

Then she glued the second one. Made a "railing" above and below.

On the sides I also installed columns, "railings" and made wooden inserts.

Looking at the stern, I was not happy with the brass strip below. It lies somehow crooked, and indeed ... She removed it, cleaned off the glue and glued the wooden plank. In the wooden center, I made an opening with a file and inserted brass wire into this opening. I did the same with the lower bar called the ship. Plus - I added wooden inserts at the stern here as well.

Gathered aft lanterns.

First I tried it on (photo above), and then I installed the lights. Sawed the beams on which, as I understand it, the boat descends. I drilled holes in them and glued them in place (again with the help of a wire to keep it better).

The new stern variant (or "improved" stern variant) is definitely my favorite.

Then she took up the barrels that arrived in the package along with the columns. To make them look realistic, I drew boards on them. I also made lids on the barrels, for larger barrels (height 10mm) - lids with a rope handle.

I covered the barrels with varnish and set them aside to dry.

In the meantime, I glued the cannonballs (which also came in the package) to the cannonball stands.

In front, near the carronades, I had to re-glue the supports for the nuclei - at first I glued them too high.

Here I made the core holder myself, since it was not included in the set.

Just in case, if 10 mm barrels seem too big to someone, I specially looked at the photos of the original Victory, there are such large barrels there too, though not on the upper deck.

Well, the case is almost, almost ready, but, nevertheless, not quite yet. Further in the next review.

=====================================================================

News from the portal NNM.Ru (NoNaMe)
URL - R.K. Frimen