Daisy chain self insurance. Daisy Chain: what kind of beast is this? Finished rope lanyards

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Climbing system in the field of mountaineering is an element of equipment that a climber puts on, and to which a rope is attached using a carbine or. The safety system is designed to distribute the force during a jerk of the rope due to falling and preventing injury to the climber. Individual safety systems that are used in mountaineering must meet the requirements of UIAA.

In mountaineering, however, as in climbing or mountaineering, there are several types of safety systems - chest harness or upper system, arbor or lower system, combined or complete system.

The main components in the insurance system are:

Buckle.
Ring.
Loops or so-called balconies on the sides of the system.

What is self insurance?

Self-insurance is a device that is designed to insure and position a climber on difficult mountainous terrain. Self-insurance must withstand the greatest design breakthrough without damage and destruction and provide no more than 12 kN for the breaking load.

Self-insurance systems are manufactured in a manufacturing way or do-it-yourself knotted out of a certified dynamic rope.

The insurance chain includes: the insurer, the insurance of the insurer, the insurance station, the safety device, the insurance system, intermediate points of insurance, carbines and a rope connecting it all.

In the selection process, the main rule for the formation of the insurance chain is the use of equipment that is certified, tested and manufactured specifically for this task.

For this reason, it is strictly forbidden to use a static rope for lower insurance and it is not recommended to use a mustache made of tape for self-insurance. However, it should be remembered that even the use of certified equipment can not give guarantees, since the use of erroneous techniques or the use of equipment with errors is no less dangerous.

Ligament rope self-insurance

Self-insurance from the end of the ligament rope can be tied in just a few seconds and, at the same time, no additional equipment is needed:

You must choose how much rope you need.
Next, you should tie a stirrup.
Now we insert a carbine into it.
Done.

This method is suitable either for leaders who work on two ropes, or for twos. New dynamic ropes with UIAA certificates can lengthen by forty percent or less during the snatch factor 1.7.

The safest lanyards

Make them with a piece of dynamic rope. On such a self-insurance takes about three or four meters of rope. One mustache must be made short and used for clamping. It should have an optimal length so that the jumar, which is fastened with a carabiner to the mustache, is located at face level. The second mustache should be made long, but it should not be longer than the outstretched arm. The latter is self-insurance.

In order for the self-insurance to become adjustable, you need to add a prusik to the base of the mustache. The grasping knot must be tied on a self-insurance mustache and attached to the harness in the same way as self-insurance. To shorten, you should choose the slack between the carabiner and the gripping unit.

Such insurance is able to extinguish the energy of the jerk by tightening the knots, stretching the rope and etching in the setting knot.

These insurance policies are not recommended for mountaineering camp participants.

Ready-made ligamentous self-insurance

An equally safe option is ready-made ligamentous self-insurance. It is desirable that the lanyard be attached to the harness not with a carbine, but with a semi-gripping knot. In this situation, the carabiner is an extra link in the safety system.

In the finished self-insurance, stitching is used instead of nodes. During a breakdown on such insurance, part of the energy is absorbed by stretching the rope. It is forbidden to shorten stitched lanyards from the box, however, you can tie the knot as described above.

Parcel prussik

Parcel Prussik is the best option for lovers of cordlets and the whole western. He is knitted from a piece of repshnur in the thickness of seven millimeters. If the cord conforms to EN 564 standards, then it can withstand at least 9.8 kN.

The length of such a thing is quite easily adjustable. If the rope breaks, the knot will etch the rope. In combination with the extension of the cord, you get a less hard jerk.

Sterling Chain Reactor, Metolius PAS and the like

The safest of non-rope self-insurance. Each ring in such self-insurance is power. If the insurance is not damaged and fastened with two carbines to you, it means that it can withstand the gap exactly as much as specified in the passport by the manufacturer.

Semi-gripping knot can weaken it by 30-60%. Slings when jerking absorb energy worse than a rope. A sling made of nylon can absorb about five percent of the energy of the jerk, and this is very small.

In addition, they can withstand the passport load only provided that they are fastened with carbines.

It is advisable to use such a self-insurance in combination with a self-insurance from the end of a ligamentous rope.

Lanyards tied from slings

In principle, such insurance was invented for cavers. For mountaineering, they are not very comfortable - a long whisker is suitable for a jumar, and a short one for carrying out a basket when descending.

If we talk about the absorption of the energy of the jerk by self-insurance, then these types of insurance will depreciate worse than the rope, but better than Dynamo. Fasten it with two carbines. In fact, there are practically no amenities for climbers, but there are downsides.

Related from slings

Their advantage is that they are very light.

However, there are several disadvantages:

The presence of sensitivity to abrasion compared to rope self-insurance.
Lack of length regulation.
They absorb the energy of a jerk much worse than a rope.

Daisy chains of various types

None of the Daisy chains are, in fact, self-insurance - manufacturers say so. The main purpose of the Daisy Chain is the ITO - a manner of climbing in mountaineering, where the fulcrum is artificial.

However, this is not interesting to anyone - a lot of climbers use them as a self-insurance because of ease of use.

If the daisy chain is incorrectly shortened, which is not so difficult to do, it will burst if you load two hundred or three hundred kilograms. If you correctly shortened it, but tied any knot, it can lose from thirty to sixty percent of its strength.

For the reasons described above, it is not advisable to use daisy chains as a self-insurance.

Cliffs

Just like daisy chains, they are not self-insurance and are created specifically for ITO. Their breaking load varies from 120 kg at Petzel and up to 300 kg at Metolius.

As a self-insurance, daisy chains can still be adapted, but this will not work with the cliffs, since under the load the sling on the buckle will break.

Self-insurance for ice tools

They are very flimsy. Their main task is to prevent ice tools from falling down and may break at a load of 200 kg. Erasers can only be used for ice tools and in no case can be used for insurance or self-insurance.

Comparison of various types of self-insurance from a passport of elastic bands Grivel

From the end of the main rope:

Advantages - safety, easy adjustment, no need for additional equipment.
Disadvantages - the scope is limited.

From the main rope:

Advantages - safety, easy adjustment.
Disadvantages - bulky sizes, inconvenient to remove.

From the stitched main rope:

Advantages - safety, easy to remove and put on, mostly more compact than from a piece of rope.
Disadvantages - it is impossible to adjust, the length of the mustache must be chosen carefully.

Parcel Prussic:

Advantages - relative safety, easy adjustment, easy to put on and take off, perfectly dampens the breakthrough.
Disadvantages - bulky sizes, difficult to knit, only one mustache.

PAS and the like:

Advantages - relative safety, easy adjustment, easy to put on and take off, do not get confused underfoot.
Disadvantages - poor absorption of jerk energy.

From the slings:

The benefits are lightweight, easy to take off and put on.
Disadvantages - it is impossible to regulate, poor absorption of jerk energy, less wear-resistant in comparison with a rope.

Daisy Chain:

The benefits are lightweight, easy to shorten, easy to take off and put on.

Cliffs:

Advantages - simple and convenient to shorten.
Disadvantages - not self-insurance.

Rubber bands for tools:

Advantages - shorten themselves, light.
Disadvantages - not self-insurance.

Thus, we can draw the following conclusions:

You can safely use it - from the end of the main rope, sewn from a rope, from a piece of rope.
Use with caution - parcel panties made of stitched rings.
It is not recommended to use - cliffs, daisy chains, connected slings, elastic bands for tools.

In the end, I would like to say that insurance, like no other detail of the mountain climbing technique, requires regular and constant training and attention. Experienced climbers, who have been climbing together for many years and have excellent command of climbing techniques, in practice may never experience the real need for action in the event of a breakdown in a ligament partner.

Therefore, it is necessary to know the procedure during a breakdown. In addition, it is necessary to be able to reliably and correctly organize the insurance station - to use the relief and the microrelief in a quality manner to implement insurance and self-insurance techniques.

Today we’ll talk a little about Daisy Chain.

Using Daisy Chain as a self-insurance has become rampant. And, I confess, I myself contributed to this to a large extent - I taught beginners to use this thing. It's time to dot the “i” and sprinkle ashes on your head.

Daisy Chain is NOT auto insurance. As I already wrote, our misfortune is a total reluctance to read instructions, and even more so, to follow them. We are smarter with you ;-).

Initially, the Daisy Chain was used for climbing the ITO on the Great Walls. Times have changed, and Daisy Chain began to be worn by newcomers to the “ones” in the Crimea.

Times - they are for times and that would change, but the Daisy Chain is not required to change. They have not changed.

First of all, you should take a look at the instructions for the Daisy Chain (Black Diamond). It says in black and white: “Daisy Chains are variable length tie-offs designed to support body
weight ONLY. DO NOT use them as part of your belay or
protection system. They are NOT designed to hold falls. ”

And we use such a thing for self-insurance?

Now about the strength.
For example, the company Black Diamond gives such characteristics to its Daisy Chain:

1. The strength of the intermediate crosslinking - 300 kg.
2. The strength of the entire loop is 1600 kg.

Generally speaking, this is very small. With a jerk factor of 2, more force can develop. And how to achieve such a factor? It’s very simple - they forgot to click the Daisy Chain out of the station, climbed, the daisy chain pulled in, you broke - that’s factor 2.

A lot has already been written about the Daisy Chain strength tests. Inquisitive, I suggest that you read the article Glamorous Self-insurance - a brutal blow!

The most important thing to take out of this kind of research is the realization that the Daisy Chain is a very fragile thing and trusting your life in it would be a vain risk.

Of course, you should not immediately rush to the treasured bag of equipment and throw out the daisy.
On difficult ascents, it really helps, to zhumat or conveniently. What to do? There is an exit. Use in daisy chain as ADDITIONAL self-insurance. The main one is a ligament rope (or overhead insurance or fastening to a station using, as shown in the picture).

And, of course, you can’t do without a daisyk on difficult routes, especially with a large number of ITOs.
What you need to remember when working with daisy chain?
First of all, you need to know that if you incorrectly shorten the daisyk or fasten it (as shown in the pictures), this can lead to very sad consequences. In both cases, when the loops break (load of about 300 kg), the carbine will fly off the daisic. The consequences are obvious.

For clarity, I suggest watching a video from Black Diamond:

At the end of the video, it is shown how to nevertheless correctly shorten the dazik. But there are still ways:

Or another option:

There is another controversial point - how to fasten the daisy chain to the system.
Three methods are most commonly used:

1. Snapping half-grip to the center ring. On the one hand, half-gripping reduces strength to 50%, on the other hand, as the bourgeois write, clamping the central ring is also not buzzing.

2. Snapping half-grip to the belt and leg loops. There will also be a decrease in strength.

3. Fastening in a carabiner that connects the gazebo belt and foot loops. This option is preferable from the point of view of strength reduction: no node - no strength reduction. But it requires an additional carbine.

My recommendations:
1. Use a daisyk as an additional self-insurance.
2. Use the ligament rope as the main self-insurance at the stations.
3. Always on the end carabiner.
4. When climbing the ITO, do not allow a situation when a breakthrough with a factor of 2 is possible (remove the self-insurance from the previous point as quickly as possible).

It might be useful to read: