Oxygen equipment for climbers. Oxygen cans. Equipment, equipment and food for climbers

The material was found and prepared for publication by Grigory Luchansky

A source:Garf B., Kropf F. Mountaineering abroad.FiS, Moscow, 1957

Equipment, equipment and food for climbers

Much attention is paid abroad to the issues of special equipment for the climber.

Hundreds of different companies, competing with each other, sell various models of individual and group equipment, clothing, footwear. The suppliers are most often handicraft artels and small factories, or rather workshops. In this regard, the cost of climbing equipment is significant. However, the quality of the gear and equipment is high. The most appropriate model of this or that piece of equipment is carefully researched and selected, the manufacturing process is developed in detail, which is then strictly observed, and the finished products are strictly controlled. The general development of technology is reflected in the production of climbing equipment. Light alloys, high-alloy steels (for example, chromium-molybdenum), plastics, artificial fibers such as nylon, etc. are widely used.

Acquaintance with the latest achievements of the West in the field of mountaineering equipment production should be of interest not only for numerous Soviet climbers, but also for those organizations that are supposed to supply Soviet climbers with various and high-quality equipment and which, unfortunately, are still not doing enough with these responsibilities. The issue of equipment is of particular importance in connection with the intensive development of high-altitude mountaineering. In any Himalayan expedition, equipment matters and is given the highest priority. As an example, we will point out that during the preparation of the 1953 British expedition to Everest, not only numerous companies participated in the development of equipment, but also a number of research institutes, including such large organizations as the Arctic Institute, the Institute of Nutrition, the Central Research Base of the Military -Air Force at Farnborough, etc.

The prototypes of the equipment are subjected to long-term tests in laboratory conditions. Metal products are checked for static and dynamic strength, deformation, fatigue, corrosion resistance. Tents, garments are tested for strength, moisture resistance, high and low temperatures. In this case, the entire arsenal of modern experimental equipment is used (pressure chambers, wind tunnels, thermostats, chambers with artificial climate, etc.).

However, this is still not enough. Released samples must undergo long-term tests in natural conditions. So, for example, before the last expedition to Everest, the British in December 1952 conducted comparative tests of numerous samples of clothing, shoes, tents, sleeping bags, etc. on the Jungfrau-Joch pass in Switzerland. The external conditions during the tests (with the exception of the altitude) were approximately the same as those that the English climbers had to meet in May 1953 on the South Col of Everest. The temperature stayed around -25, -28 ° С, and a blizzard often raged. The climbers changed every day by stormtroopers, down suits, sleeping bags, wore different types of boots on each foot, and compared their notes every evening.

Finally, the expedition led by E. Shipton to Cho-Oyu (see Chapter II) had its main purpose to test equipment in natural high-altitude conditions and in this respect was like a rehearsal before the storming of Everest.

Most other Himalayan expeditions have the same serious approach to equipment, but the British expedition in 1953 can serve as a model in this regard.

In this small volume of the book, we are deprived of the opportunity to highlight in detail all the issues of climbing equipment and equipment used abroad. In addition, no description, of course, gives even a tenth of what a direct practical acquaintance with the best examples of foreign mountaineering equipment can give.

Here is a brief description of the main equipment used abroad.

EQUIPMENT

Hooks. Nowadays, almost hundreds of hooks are used on extremely difficult wall routes in the Alps. It is appropriate here to remind our metal climbing organizations that rock pitches do not have to be standard. The endless variety of cracks that can be encountered on the path of a climber requires an equally diverse range of pitches. If the climber is armed only with standard pitons, for example, our type "L", then it is unlikely that he will be able to use them on a more or less difficult route. It is no coincidence that qualified climbers prefer to make a variety of rocky hooks for themselves in a homemade way.

Figure: 40. Metal equipment.

Abroad, in addition to the usual vertical and horizontal hooks of various lengths, widths, thicknesses, ultra-wide "petal" hooks are used (see Fig. 40, a and b), as well as the so-called universal hooks (see Fig. 40, d), used for both vertical and horizontal cracks.

Vertical hooks have a stop that increases the reliability of the hammered hook (see Fig. 40, c). All general crack rock hooks are made of mild steel. To use wide cracks, duralumin hooks, similar to ice ones, are often used.

In fig. 40, d shows the use of a steel horizontal hook "1" in a wide crack as a spacer for the main duralumin hook "2".

On difficult routes, for wider cracks, wooden wedges are often used (Fig. 41, a). Such wedges made of hard wood (oak, ash) can be used independently for belaying as artificial support points (Fig. 41, b) or in combination with a duralumin hook (Fig. 41, c).

Figure: 41. Wooden wedges.

Finally, in cases where an absolutely smooth rocky area is to be overcome, devoid of any cracks for driving a hook, so-called expanding hooks are used (Fig. 42). In this case, a hole is hollowed out in the rock with the help of a bolt, into which the split bushing is driven in. The cylindrical shank of the hook "a", which fits tightly into the sleeve "c", has a slot into which the wedge "b" is inserted. When the hook is driven in, the wedge enters the slot in the shank and moves it apart. The shank, in turn, expands the bushing. Friction is generated enough to provide reliable belay. In fig. 42, r and d shows the use of expanding hooks for belaying and as an artificial fulcrum.

Figure: 42. Expanding hooks.

Carbines. The design of carbines, since they were first used, has changed relatively little. In an effort to reduce weight, they began to use alloy steel or high-strength duralumin grades for carbines. The most convenient is the shape of the carbine, shown in Fig. 40 e (we have this type of carbine known as the Rakovsky carbine). Such a carabiner can be successfully used not only for belaying, but also as an artificial point of support for the hand.

Rock hammers... In addition to conventional rock hammers, heavy hammers are also used on difficult routes (Fig. 40, g), the use of which facilitates the laborious process of driving the hooks and especially hollowing out the hole for expanding hooks.

Ice axes. In high-altitude ascents, as well as in ordinary snow-ice ascents of the alpine scale, ice axes of a conventional design are used. Relief is achieved by reducing cross-sections through the use of high strength steel for the head and selected, high quality wood for the handle. On difficult wall routes, the conventional ice ax is replaced by a foldable ice ax or an icebayl.

Cats. The design of the cats has also changed little. Usual ten-toothed crampons are used, and twelve-toothed to overcome especially steep slopes. Weight reduction is achieved by using alloy steel, and in some cases, duralumin. Duralumin cats were used in high-altitude expeditions, for example, to Cho Oyu in 1954. For the 1953 expedition, the British ordered especially lightweight crampons from Switzerland. Probably, in this case, the manufacturer overdid it and excessively reduced the strength, since the leader of the expedition, D. Hunt, mentions that 12 pairs of crampons were broken during transport work on the Khumbu glacier.

Stirrups. In fig. 43 depicts stirrups, which are currently widely used when passing steep and overhanging rocky sections. This stirrup is a short rope ladder made of nylon cord 5 mm in diameter with duralumin crossbars.

Ropes. All ropes currently in use are made from nylon only. It should be noted that foreign climbers use a rope of a smaller diameter than is customary in our country. The diameter of the main rope used for belay does not exceed 8.5 mm (we use a rope of at least 12 mm). The cord is 5 mm in diameter. This rope relief is not without reason. When falling off on rocky areas with a steepness less than 60-70 °, as well as on steep snow and ice slopes, there is never a dynamic force that can break even an 8 mm rope.

On steep walls where free fall is possible, a double fall arrest system is used (see fig. I). At the same time, it is believed that a poorly hammered hook will fly out (and it is often not possible to hammer it reliably) than the rope will break. Therefore, double insurance is applied. This system has fully justified itself in practice.

Figure: 43. Use of the stirrup as an artificial support

Tents. The design, size and material of tents depend on the nature of the planned route. For wall ascents, the Zdarskiy tent is used (we call it a tent-bag). This is quite natural, since on such routes it is usually impossible to set up an ordinary tent. Zdarskiy's tent should be windproof and lightweight. Typically, the material is nylon, which is highly durable and lightweight. Impregnation with various compounds (for example, mistolen) makes the material waterproof. The weight of Zdarsky's tent for two people does not exceed 400-600 g. The strength of a tent for high-altitude ascents should be much higher, since it has to withstand hurricane force winds. It is very important that the fabric is windproof and that the design of the tent ensures maximum heat retention. In fig. 44 shows several types of tents used in high-altitude expeditions.

The previous experience of numerous expeditions to Everest and other eight-thousanders was fully taken into account by British climbers when choosing the type of tents for the expedition in 1953. The most suitable for high-altitude camps was an ordinary Himalayan tent of the "Mead" type, similar in shape to our "Pamir", but somewhat larger ... It is placed on a special frame made of duralumin pipes. The entrance to the tent is made in the form of a cylindrical sleeve sewn into the end wall of the tent. This allows, having bandaged the sleeve, tightly close the tent and prevent the penetration of fine snow dust into it. The entrance is made from two sides, so by placing the tents with their ends close to each other, you can go from one to the other. To facilitate the entry into the tent, the British edged the fabric sleeve with a ring of piano wire. In all upper camps (over 6000 m), additional inner walls are arranged in tents. These walls weigh a little, but their presence raises the temperature in tents by 4 °. The total weight of a two-person Mead tent is 6.8 kg. Lighter tents were used on many expeditions. For example, in the 1953 expedition to Nanga Parbat, two-man assault tents weighing only 900 g were used. The British in 1953 also took with them for the upper camps several lightweight tents weighing 3-3.5 kg. However, the desire for comfort has led to the fact that lighter, but more cramped and colder tents have not found use for themselves.

Figure: 44. Various types of tents.

The second type of tents used in high-altitude expeditions is a pyramidal-shaped multi-person tent, which serves as a kind of wardroom in base camps. They usually eat in such tents, arrange meetings, and put the sick person if necessary. In the 1953 expedition to Everest, there were two types of such tents: five-seater (one of which was on the south saddle) and twelve-seater. The latter were built on the type of army arctic tents and weighed 37 kg.

Most of the attention was paid to the choice of material for the tents. The research organizations of the military department took a great part in this. After numerous tests, a fabric with a cotton base and a nylon weft was selected. Weighing only 160 g / m 2, it was highly durable. Blowing samples in a wind tunnel showed the fabric's absolute windproofness at an air flow rate of up to 160 km / h. Impregnation of the fabric with "Mistolene" made it waterproof.

More or less similar in type tents were used in most of the Himalayan expeditions. It should be noted the general trend towards ensuring maximum comfort in the base camps. For example, during the K-2 expedition, the Italians slept in the base camp on folding beds, and the floor in the eight-person tents was replaced with a carpet. The tents were illuminated with electricity from a special engine.

Sleeping bag. A sleeping bag is of considerable importance when climbing. In the Alps, sleeping bags are generally not used in summer and are used only in winter. Sleeping bags are made only down-filled with a nylon top, and for normal alpine conditions the weight of the sleeping bag is extremely small (600-1000 g).

For high-altitude ascents, much warmer bags are needed. For the British expedition in 1953, sacks were made in Canada and New Zealand. Each bag consisted of two separate parts, one inner and one outer, made of nylon fabric and eider down. The total weight of the sleeping bag was approximately 4 kg. A sleeping bag of this design retained heat well at a temperature of -25 -30 °. Bags of approximately the same design were used in other high-altitude expeditions. German down bags with silk tops and zippers used at Nanga Parbat weighed about 3 kg. On K-2, sleeping bags weighed 3.4 kg. For Cho-Oyu - 3.2 kg.

Inflatable mattress. An important part of bivouac equipment is an inflatable mattress, which, unfortunately, is not used at all in our practice. It is indispensable for bivouacs that are broken on snow or ice, as it prevents the penetration of cold from below. An air mattress is absolutely essential for high-altitude ascents. The inflatable mattress is formed by a series of pipes made of rubberized fabric, laid close to each other. Particularly convenient are double-deck mattresses in which the tubes of the upper layer enter the recesses between the tubes of the lower layer. Each tube is individually inflated using lightweight bellows.

Backpack. There are a wide variety of backpack models. Most of them belong to the so-called easel backpacks. A lightweight machine (frame) made of steel thin-walled or duralumin tubes more evenly distributes the load on the climber's body and makes it much easier to carry the load. However, on difficult wall ascents, where you often have to pull the backpack on a rope, the easel-type backpack is not very suitable. In this case, ordinary small backpacks are used, completely smooth, without external pockets or flaps.

Glasses. Canned glasses are usually made of unbreakable and non-tarnishing organic glass with a protective paint. The duralumin frame has an oval shape.

Lightweight pocket altimeters are widespread, especially useful in high-altitude expeditions.

In some cases, special equipment that is not used during normal ascents is of great importance. So, when climbing K-2, the cable car played an important role in lifting loads. In 1953, on the Khumbu icefall, the British used special lightweight duralumin ladders to overcome huge cracks, made up of separate, interconnected 1.8 m long sections. The maximum span that could be covered was 7 m. Although the deflection of the ladder in the middle was intimidating, the ladder could support the weight of three people.

OXYGEN EQUIPMENT

For a long time, a fierce discussion was conducted in foreign mountaineering circles: “Is it permissible from a sports and ethical point of view to use oxygen when climbing to the top? Is there some analogy here, say, with landing on the top of a mountain on a helicopter?

In addition, many believed that a person was able to reach the summit of Everest without the help of oxygen, and cited as confirmation examples of Norton, Sommerwell and other climbers who reached a considerable height without oxygen (up to 8500 m), or Odel, who spent several days at an altitude of more than 8000 However, at the present time, on the basis of extensive physiological studies carried out in various Himalayan expeditions, it can be considered established that no acclimatization can save the human body from gradual exhaustion and weakening when staying at altitudes of more than 7000 m. Every day the strength of the climber At this height they are falling more and more, and by the time of the final assault the climber is already so weak that overcoming the last section is impossible for him.

The only correct solution is the use of oxygen, and not only during movement, but also during sleep. As we said earlier, oxygen was first used on Everest by Finch and Bruce in 1922. The weak effect that the use of oxygen had at that time should be explained primarily by the imperfection of oxygen equipment. Devices (especially cylinders) must have a minimum weight per unit of performance, regardless of altitude, low temperature, etc. The device must function flawlessly, be easy to use and not create an unpleasant feeling of suffocation when inhaled.

The importance attached by the British to oxygen equipment is evidenced by the fact that during the preparation of the expedition a special body was created to control the production and testing of oxygen equipment. The British managed to create oxygen equipment, which turned out to be much better than all previous models and played a decisive role in the victory over Everest.

It should be noted that in 1953, oxygen was first used while sleeping on a bivouac. Thus, the weakening of the organism at high altitude, which was mentioned above, was prevented. Experience has shown that climbers using "nighttime" oxygen slept much better, had a good night's rest and felt in good shape in the morning.

Figure: 45. Oxygen equipment of an open system

All oxygen apparatus used can be divided into two main types:

In an apparatus with open circulation (Fig. 45), the climber inhales oxygen-enriched air and exhales it into the surrounding atmosphere. Oxygen is contained in a cylinder under a pressure of 230 atm. From there, through a pressure reducing valve, it is supplied at a nominal pressure of 3 atm. and falls through a flexible hose into a manifold with two outlet nozzles. The use of different manifolds with two calibrated holes in each allows you to adjust the feed rate. The climber can use oxygen at speeds of 2; 2.5; 3; 4; 5 and 6 liters per minute. The economizer allows oxygen to pass through only during inhalation, which eliminates unnecessary gas leakage during exhalation. At the beginning of inhalation, a slight vacuum is formed in the mask, under the action of which the economizer control valve opens and oxygen fills the mask.

Figure: 46. \u200b\u200bOxygen equipment of a closed system

A complete set of equipment (without cylinders) weighed about 3 kg. The weight of each cylinder made of light alloy, with a capacity of 800 liters of oxygen, was approximately 5 kg.

In a closed circuit system (Fig. 46), no outside air enters the unit. The climber inhales the high oxygen mixture directly from the breathing chamber. Exhalation occurs through a cartridge with soda lime, which absorbs carbon dioxide and directs the oxygen used during breathing back into the breathing chamber. The oxygen absorbed by the climber is reimbursed from the cylinder through a pressure reducing valve. To facilitate the breathing process, special attention should be paid to reducing hydraulic losses in the pipeline. Tests carried out in 1953 with British apparatus of this type showed that the required overpressure during exhalation did not exceed 22 mm of water column, and during inhalation - 8 mm.

The advantages and disadvantages of one or another hardware system have been the subject of lively discussions.

A closed-type apparatus has a significantly higher productivity (in other words, with the same weight, it will provide oxygen for a longer time). However, it is less reliable than an open-type apparatus. In cold weather, the heat generated in closed-type apparatus is a positive factor. It is also a disadvantage in bright sun and weak wind.

The following table (p. 199) borrowed from D. Hunt's book "Climbing Mount Everest" can give some idea about the physiological effect of oxygen supply and, at the same time, about the comparative characteristics of the two systems of oxygen apparatus mentioned. This table provides data on the ascent rate of various groups in the same section from the South Col to the Swiss camp on the southeastern ridge of Everest, that is, from about 7900 to 8350 m.

The table clearly shows that the use of oxygen leads to a sharp increase in the speed of movement and that a closed type of oxygen equipment is more effective than an open one.

It should be noted, however, that the prototype of the closed-type equipment, first used by the 1953 expedition to Everest, apparently still had significant drawbacks. In subsequent expeditions, open-type devices were used, although the 1955 expedition to Kanchenjunga was led by Evans, a member of the 1st assault team on Everest, who then walked with a closed device.

For oxygen supply during sleep, the most suitable apparatus is an open type. The oxygen supplied from the cylinder is divided equally into two masks in the tee, so that two sleepers use one cylinder at a flow rate reduced to 2 liters per minute.

Table of the effect of oxygen supply on ascent rate

	Oxygen apparatus type	Lifting speed, m / hour	Note
Lambert and Tenzing,	During the movement we walked without oxygen (oxygen was used only during rest)
Gregory, Lowe, Ang Nyima,	Open, serve 4 liters per minute
Hunt and Da Namgial, 1953			We walked along the finished steps
Hillary and Tenzing (2nd Assault Team), 1953
Evans and Bourdillon (1st Assault Team), 1953	Closed		They cut down and trampled steps in the firn

RADIO COMMUNICATIONS

In foreign literature, very little has been written about radio communication in mountaineering. Very brief information is reported only in the book by D. Hunt "Climbing Everest". In the Alps, no connection is applied during ascents. This is primarily due to the fact that there are no auxiliary or observation groups with the main group of climbers and, therefore, there is no one to keep in touch with. In high-altitude expeditions, radio equipment, as a rule, is included in the nomenclature of equipment that the expedition takes with them. However, it is far from being fully used, and sometimes it is not even used at all, as was the case when climbing Annapurna.

Small handheld VHF radios have been used with success on a number of expeditions to communicate between intermediate camps. As you know, such stations operate reliably at a distance of up to 10-15 km, subject to direct visibility between the talking points. It should be noted that the higher the camp, the less willing they are to raise a walkie-talkie into it (despite the fact that its weight with food is not more than 3-4 kg), and as a result, in the assault camp, as a rule, there is no radio communication, not to mention about assault groups that have never taken a walkie-talkie to the top.

Radio communication with the outside world is also carried out. In most cases, however, this connection is one-way, since the expedition has only a receiver serving to receive the much-needed daily weather forecast. Motivating this circumstance, D. Hunt writes that the presence of the transmitter "could not in the least contribute to the success of the expedition and, moreover, would require additional inclusion of a radio operator in the expedition."

Insufficient attention to radio communication, and first of all to ensuring regular communication between the camps and the assault group, is a significant drawback in organizing foreign high-altitude expeditions.

CLOTHES AND SHOES

The practice of all high-altitude expeditions shows that special attention should be paid to protecting the climber's body from low temperatures.

Storm suits - pants and hooded jacket are usually made of nylon. The 1953 British expedition used the same fabric for the storm suits as for the tent, with a nylon lining. The total weight of the suit is 2.6 kg. Down suits made of eider down and nylon fabric were worn under the storm suit. This was followed by a thick sweater, two thinner sweaters, warm fleece wool underwear. This is how it looked, with minor deviations, the clothes of a climber in a high-altitude camp of any Himalayan expedition.

No less difficult is the problem of protecting hands from the cold. Usually climbers at altitudes above 7000 m wear two or three pairs of gloves - woolen, down, nylon (windproof). Silk gloves are put on directly on the fingers, allowing them to take off the mittens for a short time in order to do some work (tie a cat, take a photo, etc.).

As for the clothing used for climbing the Alps, it differs little from the clothing used by Soviet climbers, except that Western European climbers do not wear storm pants. Tight gabardine pants and a nylon shirt are usually used. A jacket with a hood is put on top.

During winter ascents, almost as much warm clothing is taken as during high-altitude ascents, but some of it is carried in a backpack and used only on a bivouac, since it is obviously impossible to walk a steep wall route in a down suit and several sweaters.

Most of all, you should protect your feet from the cold. Repeated cases of frostbite that took place in high-altitude expeditions and winter ascents showed the need to create special high-altitude insulated shoes.

Leather boots (fig. 47) with profiled rubber soles (“Vibram” type) are currently used for ordinary alpine ascents made in summer conditions. Such a sole successfully replaces heavy fittings with tricones, holds well on rocks, snow and glides only on steep ice slopes. On especially difficult rock routes, special rock shoes with a rope sole are used. The tragic consequences of using ordinary mountaineering shoes for high-altitude ascents can be seen from the history of climbing Annapurna (see Chapter II).

The strength of high-rise boots is not of great importance, since their wear period is very short, but they must be tough enough to be able to attach crampons to them or knock out steps in the firn with the toe of a boot. Weight plays an important role, since, according to the studies of the English physiologist G. Puff, who took part in the expedition in 1953, 1 kg of weight on the legs causes the same fatigue as 5 kg on the shoulders.

Shoes should be much warmer than usual, since the body, weakened by oxygen starvation at high altitude, is especially prone to frostbite. It is very important that the insulating layer remains dry, otherwise the boots will freeze at night and in the morning it will be impossible to put them on without warming them up on a kerosene stove. In addition, damp insulation loses its effectiveness.

When climbing K-2, at altitudes up to 7000 m, ordinary mountaineering boots with fur lining between two layers of leather were used. In higher camps, fur boots made of reindeer skins with profiled rubber soles were worn.

The climbers on Nanga Parbat in 1953 used leather boots with felt lining up to the very top. However, the size of these boots was such that, in addition to woolen socks, climbers wore two pairs of felt socks.

Figure: 47. Climbing boots with profiled rubber soles ("Vibram" type)

In the 1953 expedition to Everest, two types of footwear were used. To the upper base camp (6470 m), lightweight boots with fur lining and felt insole were worn, weighing only 1.7 kg. Above, another type of boot was used, based on the principle of a vapor barrier: the insulation, which must remain dry, was enclosed between two layers of leather that did not allow moisture from the melting snow from the outside and from the sweating from the inside. As insulation between the two layers of leather, a layer of a special very light insulating material "Tropal" with a thickness of more than 20 mm was laid. A pair of these shoes weighed less than 2 kg.

KITCHENS

All physiologists who have conducted research in high-altitude conditions agree that at high altitudes the body's need for fluid increases sharply. This is primarily due to the large loss of water during breathing, both due to the exceptional dryness of the air and due to increased pulmonary ventilation. At lower altitudes, especially in closed glacial troughs and snow circuses, when there is no wind, the loss of moisture from the body in the form of sweat during the hot part of the day can also be very significant, since insolation is extremely strong. Let us point out as an example that in May 1952 at Cho Oyu, at an altitude of 5800 m, a temperature of + 69 ° C was recorded in the sun.

Research on Cho-Oyu by the English physiologist Papa has led to the conclusion that the daily rate of fluid required at high altitudes reaches 4-5 liters per day per person. Of course, drinking is necessary for any ascent, even alpine type, lasting 1-2 days. During high-altitude ascents, the lack of water leads to a rapid and sharp weakening of the body, while when climbing a difficult alpine wall, it can give unpleasant sensations, but it is unlikely to decisively affect the climber's performance.

Considering that all the water required for high-altitude ascents is obtained by melting the snow, it will become clear how important it is to create light, trouble-free and highly efficient heating devices.

For many years in the Alps they were used for most of the ascents of the Meta kitchen at a solid start. These kitchens have certain advantages: low weight, quiet combustion and safety, but in terms of their performance they are far behind various types of gasoline-fueled primus stoves, the weight of which has recently been significantly reduced, and the reliability and safety of operation have been dramatically increased.

In preparation for the 1953 expedition to Everest, the British paid great attention to the improvement of heating devices. The experience of Soviet high-altitude ascents showed satisfactory operation of primus stoves at altitudes up to 7000 m.However, the British found that above 4500 m a conventional primus burner did not work reliably, and in accordance with this a special type of high-altitude self-cleaning burner was designed. The most time-consuming and unpleasant operation - cleaning the primer, which is a lot of trouble at altitude, was excluded. The burner was cleaned by simply turning the handle. In addition, in order to reduce the large convective heat losses characteristic of conventional heating devices, a special casing was developed that directs heat to the bottom and side walls of the pan. Heating performance has increased dramatically. Finally, complete combustion was ensured, that is, the absence of toxic carbon monoxide in the combustion products. Tests carried out in a pressure chamber showed that such a "high-altitude" primus works flawlessly at an altitude of 12,000 m. A primus of approximately the same type has been used recently in most high-altitude expeditions.

For alpine ascents, many companies produce various types of primus stoves, extremely light and compact, reliably working in the rain or in the wind (the latter is very important, since it is often impossible to set up a tent on a bivouac).

The second type of heating appliance that is starting to gain popularity is gas kitchens, most often using butane gas. Compressed to 150-200 atm. butane is transported in cylinders. The advantage of gas kitchens is ease of use. Indeed, for lighting it is enough to open the tap and bring a match. In addition, gas kitchens can be successfully used for lighting, which has its value for evening work in a common tent at the base camp. In terms of their performance per unit weight, gas kitchens are somewhat inferior to primus stoves, since a significant "dead" weight falls on gas cylinders. In general, they are good heating equipment, which has recently become increasingly used in high-altitude expeditions.

FOOD

It is necessary to briefly dwell on some of the features of the problem of nutrition during ascents.

The nomenclature of products used in the West has much in common with the diet of Soviet climbers. And this is natural, since the basic fundamental requirements for food products are the same, namely: high calorie content, easy digestibility, good taste and minimum weight.

Various concentrates are much more widespread in the West than ours: high-quality meat and chicken bouillon cubes, pemmican, soup concentrates, etc. Often used are "self-heating" canned food, under the bottom of which there are chemical reagents that enter under the action of water or displacement with each other into an exothermic reaction. Various patented nutritious foods with high calorie content, made from condensed milk, egg powder, sugar, chocolate and other products, are widespread, for example, the famous "ovomaltin", an invariable companion of any climber, and others.

With difficult wall ascents, which usually last no more than one or two days, the issue of nutrition does not play a primary role. It is believed that the day can be "starving", working at the expense of the stock accumulated in the previous days. As a rule, climbers take with them a minimum amount of food on the wall, which in terms of its calorie content does not in any way compensate for the enormous expenditure of energy during the ascent (by weight, usually no more than 500-600 g per person per day). Most often, in this case, lard or smoked sausage, dried fruits, chocolate, sugar, from canned food - sardines, various compotes are used. If it is known that there is snow on the route, but there will be no water, a primus is taken, in which case cocoa or soup is cooked on the bivouac. Candy, dried fruit and condensed milk or cream (in tubes) are applied on the go.

Nutritional issues for high-altitude expeditions are of much greater importance. Along with equipment, food is one of the main factors determining the success of the expedition. Physiologists, who carried out careful observations at high altitudes above the human body, have the decisive word here. To the above general requirements for alpine nutrition, there are also specific requirements related to the behavior of the climber at high altitudes. Depending on the individual character traits, habits, state of health, and most importantly on the degree of acclimatization of this or that team member, he will relate to food in different ways.

At high altitudes, climbers become "capricious". Often, appetite disappears or you want something special, which, as a rule, is not there at the moment. Norton on Everest in 1924 really wanted strawberry jam and fried eggs, Hillary on Cho Oyu dreamed of pineapples, etc. Of course, it is impossible to fully satisfy the varied tastes of all climbers, especially since the taste at altitude is subject to drastic changes, however this should be sought in order to ensure the best possible appetite for all climbers. The experience of recent high-altitude expeditions has shown that the less the diet differs from the usual, the better it is absorbed, even at high altitude.

Climbers are much more willing to use fresh vegetables, fruits, fresh meat, bread than canned food, concentrates, bacon, chocolate. However, the question of weight comes into play here: it is extremely irrational to carry up the water contained in the listed fresh products. As always, the solution must be of a compromise nature. The products are high-calorie, concentrated, but with a varied assortment, if possible, taking into account individual taste needs. Vitamins in various combinations are required. Fruit juices are very good. In the base camps, one should eat as much fresh food as possible (the British ate potatoes and fresh lamb in 1953 in the upper base camp at an altitude of 6470 m).

Correct, expedient packaging of food is of great importance for high-altitude expeditions. In the first Himalayan expeditions, a system was adopted in which products were brought in specialized, according to the type of product, packaging, for example, bags of rice, boxes of canned meat, boxes of condensed milk, etc. The disadvantages of such a system associated with multiple repackaging, are obvious. Recently, packing has been carried out in advance, according to separate rations intended for a certain number of people, for a certain period and for a certain stage of the ascent (approaches, throwing camps, assault). So, for example, there can be "assault" rations for two person-days or rations for approaches for one person for a week (with a different menu for every day), etc. Packing is usually done under vacuum using sealed plastic boxes or bags, which ensures a good preservation of products. The shape, size and weight of the individual boxes are designed to be carried by one porter in the highlands.

The described packaging and packaging system has been successfully applied in most recent high-altitude expeditions.

Any mountain climbing involves the use of special mountaineering equipment. The main function of the equipment for the climber is the safety one. Since mountaineering ascents are associated with high risks, the main task of mountaineering equipment is to reduce this risk to the minimum possible.

The composition of mountaineering equipment is formed based on the conditions of the ascent, the season, the features of the relief, etc. Depending on these conditions, mountaineering equipment is selected for mountaineering.

Climbing equipment composition

So what kind of climbing equipment should you buy for climbing?

The equipment for the climber includes:

Fall arrest system... One of the central parts of climbing equipment. Its main function is to keep the athlete from falling in the event of a fall and to distribute the load in order to minimize injuries. There are several types of belay systems: lower (harness), upper (chest harness) and full harness.
Helmets... They serve as an additional means of protection for the climber's head during falls and rockfalls. The vast majority of modern helmets are made of lightweight plastics with a foam inner layer.
Ropes... Equipment for mountain hiking and mountaineering is impossible to imagine without ropes. The rope serves as a means of belaying when climbing and descending, moving on closed glaciers, moving loads and rescuing participants in the ascent.
Safety and descent devices... Needed for belaying a partner when climbing the route and for rappelling. The safety and descent mountaineering equipment includes the following types: eights, glasses, Gri-Gri, Stop and its analogues are also used in speleology.
Ice ax... Equipment for mountain tourism and mountaineering in harsh winter conditions and in the highlands - in glacier zones. It is used for belaying on snowy slopes, cutting steps in ice, and also as a safety anchor.
Climbing hammer... It is necessary for driving and knocking out hooks, bolts and work with embedded elements.
Ice screws... Used for belaying on ice sections of the route. They are pointed screw metal tubes from 10 to 20 cm long with an eyelet for attaching a safety carabiner.
Climbing cats... Another important element of alpine equipment. Crampons are a special metal platform with teeth that are attached to the sole of a climbing boot. Serves to improve the grip of the boot on the ice surface.
Carbines... It is the most numerous piece of equipment for mountaineering. The average number of carbines required for one ascent is at least 20-30.

In addition to the listed items, climbing equipment may include clamps, braces, loops, lanyards, ladders, rock hooks, blocks, rollers, transport bags and other mountaineering equipment.

Where to buy climbing equipment?

Since even a simple ascent requires a significant amount of climbing equipment, in addition to strength and reliability, it must have a minimum weight.

You can always buy mountaineering equipment from the best world manufacturers, including Petzl, Black Diamond, Camp, etc. climbing equipment in the Sport-Marathon online store. The product you have selected will be delivered anywhere in Russia. Or come to our store of climbing equipment on Saikina, 4.

A person cannot live even 10 minutes without oxygen. This gas, important for the body, participates in all internal processes, nourishes the brain cells and increases their endurance. The easiest and most convenient way to saturate yourself with O2 is to use an oxygen cartridge. You can take a small container with an air-oxygen mixture with you to work, walk, exercise.

Oxygen in cylinders is used in medicine, cosmetology and sports. The daily saturation of the body with useful gas stimulates vital resources and helps to restore strength after physical or mental stress. Breathing oxygen works quickly and effectively:

efficiency, stress resistance increases;
oxygen starvation and accompanying symptoms (nausea, dizziness, lethargy) go away;
the negative impact of exhaust gases is neutralized;
metabolism is stimulated;
well-being improves during the heat;
breathing is restored after active sports;
fatigue, insomnia passes.

Types of oxygen cartridges

You can buy an oxygen cartridge for medical and preventive procedures. In the catalog of the Oxy2 online store, you can easily find the desired option in terms of volume and equipment. We offer the following types of containers:

With spray. Used for breathing or making oxygen cocktails.
With dispenser ... This oxygen cartridge allows you to accurately calculate the amount of inhaled gas.
Oxygen cylinder with mask. The mask prevents oxygen from mixing with other gases, so a clean mixture enters the body during breathing.
Without a mask. Interchangeable option: remove the mask from the used spray can and use it further.

How to use an oxygen cartridge?

The application algorithm is simple:

1. Remove the protective film and cap.

2. Remove the valve, attach the mask. Install the valve back.

3. Press the valve with one or two fingers to supply oxygen.

4. After exhaling, bring the mask to your mouth and take a deep breath.

To prepare an oxygen cocktail, you will need a spray can and a mixer.

How to choose an oxygen cylinder?

When choosing oxygen in cans, pay attention to 3 main parameters:

Volume. The compact containers fit seamlessly into your bag and can travel with you all day. Bulk balloons are better suited for home use.
Structure. The percentage of oxygen in different cans is different. The higher the indicator, the more pure gas enters the body.
A type. The mask makes it easier to breathe and dose oxygen. Choose spray bottles for making cocktails.

Benefits of buying from Oxy2:

Products from trusted manufacturers ("Tervis", "Kotex", "Basic Element", etc.) in stock.
Nice prices, discounts and regular promotions. Purchase by installments for 6 months is possible.
Delivery throughout Russia and self-pickup of goods from the point of issue in Moscow and St. Petersburg.

Designed for additional oxygen supply to a person under conditions of reduced oxygen tension (partial pressure) in the ambient air, in order to prevent hypoxia.

Operation manual and

The set of oxygen equipment "POISK" can be used in high altitude conditions during ascents and search and rescue operations at an altitude of up to 9000 meters above sea level, when performing high-altitude flights (altitude over 4000 meters) on airplanes, balloons, motorized dinghy and other aircraft. , when parachuting from heights of up to 10,000 meters (special version). And also when performing aerial surveys at a high altitude of 3000-4000 meters above sea level.

The kit includes (Fig. 1) a lightweight oxygen cylinder (1) with a capacity of 3 or 4 liters, equipped with a shut-off valve; reducer (2) with flow regulator (5) and oxygen mask (3) with flow indicator (4) and bayonet connector.

In addition, the reducer can be equipped with a pressure gauge (6) for monitoring the oxygen pressure in the cylinder and a cross-shaped adapter (adapter) for attaching several (up to 4) masks.

The set of oxygen equipment "POISK" is used on helicopters of UTair Aviation Company, which performs work under UN contracts, in Afghanistan, as well as in countries of the African continent, such as Sudan, Chad, Liberia, Congo, Sierre Leone, etc. information you could see on our site for several years.

During this time, our device in operation was flawless, and compliance with the rules of its use helped our numerous clients to conquer the highest mountain peaks on Earth. Ask about this from those who have climbed with our oxygen supply system (information on the website). Our oxygen equipment kit has become very popular.

We heard only one remark from climbers, only one wish - to improve the oxygen mask.

We met the wishes of the expedition leaders and our esteemed clients and opened a program for the development of oxygen masks and other means of supplying oxygen to the respiratory organs.

Especially for the implementation of the new program, we held numerous consultations with the scientific and production teams of St. Petersburg and Moscow and invited a well-known specialist in aviation hygiene with many years of experience at the Department of Aviation and Space Medicine of the Military Medical Academy ISHUTIN Vladimir Nikolaevich, Candidate of Medical Sciences, to cooperate with Poisk. associate professor

At the first stage of the program, new oxygen masks were developed, which are currently being produced. The prototype of the produced masks was tested in 2004 on Everest (Russell Bryce expedition).

In the future, we intend to develop and produce promising oxygen supply facilities.

DEAR GENTLEMEN! WE MAKE EQUIPMENT FOR YOUR SAFETY. IT SHOULD BE EFFICIENT AND RELIABLE. MAKING IT THIS WITHOUT YOUR PARTICIPATION IS DIFFICULT. WE ASK FOR YOUR PARTICIPATION: ADVICE, WISHES, CRITICAL COMMENTS. WE ARE OPEN FOR COOPERATION AND ARE READY TO RENDER ASSISTANCE IN IMPLEMENTING YOUR IDEAS ([email protected] ).

Now a few basic provisions of our CONCEPT:

- Oxygen masks are designed for additional oxygen supply of a person under conditions of reduced oxygen tension (partial pressure) in the ambient air, in order to prevent hypoxia, as well as to protect the face and respiratory organs from climatic influences.

- When climbing, it is advisable to use 2 masks: one is the main one for climbing, the other is for rest and night sleep. Masks have different designs, and differently fit and press on the face, which gives the skin and tissues the opportunity to periodically rest.

- Currently, masks are produced in three modifications (description and photographs are given below), differing in the shape of the front part and heading, material and dimensions. Almost anyone can choose a mask that matches their face shape. Depending on the material and design of the face part, masks differ in price, but provide the same oxygen supply.

- By design, the masks are of a closed type and have inhalation and exhalation valves that create negligible breathing resistance for the economizer to work.

- To ensure a significant saving of oxygen with its continuous supply, an economizer is used in all masks, which brings oxygen consumption by the human body to 90%. The economizer design is described below.

- The nodes of the main masks of the entire consumer line are unified, which makes it possible to carry out minor repairs and replacements on their own directly in the mountains due to a group repair kit. You can purchase each node and part of the masks from us or our distributors, as well as in our store in Kathmandu, Nepal.

- The new design solution of the stowage bag allows you to guarantee its safety when the mask is removed and put on, and to ensure the cleanliness of the oxygen path of the reducer and the connector during storage.

- The night mask is made up of standard, easily replaceable elements used in medicine; helps to restore the function of the upper respiratory tract after cold damage with active breathing with cold air during the ascent; prevents excessive loss of heat and moisture when breathing dry cooled air by using a heat and moisture exchanger. - Masks are highly hygienic, easy to clean and wash.

- Our masks can be easily converted to stay in an environment containing harmful chemicals and dust by using special filters.

Figure: 2

The economizer (Fig. 2) is a thin-walled elastic bag (1) made of latex in a cloth cover (2), an oxygen supply system (3) from the flow indicator into the bag, a tube (4) for connecting to the oxygen mask cavity. The economizer, with its simplicity, allows for significant savings in oxygen, bringing its consumption by the human body up to 90% with continuous supply.

Maximum oxygen savings in conditions of oxygen deficiency is achieved by precise regulation of the flow rate using a special valve installed on the flow regulator.

The oxygen flow should be adjusted so that the economizer bag collapses completely on inspiration, completely inflates on expiration, and remains full during the respiratory pause. If the bag does not collapse on inhalation, the oxygen flow is too high and the flow rate will be excessive.

The use of inspiratory and expiratory valves, which create little additional breathing resistance, is essential for the economizer to function.

The fabric stowage bag for storing the mask consists of two compartments, the necks of which are tightened with cords with latches. The larger compartment stores the facepiece of the mask with economizer and flow indicator, while the smaller compartment contains the oxygen regulator and oxygen tube with a bayonet lock. The oxygen hose is passed through the bottom of the bag, which is removed from the hose only for cleaning, washing or replacement. There is no danger of losing the bag. A pocket with a fabric insert is sewn onto the bag, on which the name of the owner is marked with a waterproof felt-tip pen.

Figure: 3

"POISK-HIMALAI LUX" (Fig. 3) - has high performance; the front part (1) is made of natural soft rubber, fits tightly to the face along the line: nose bridge - cheekbones - chin. A tight fixation of the mask in the nasal region is provided by a nose clip (2) in the form of a plastic spring, located on the mask body above the nose.

The mask is available in three sizes.

The inhalation valve (3) is located in front of the mouth and nose, on the left is the exhalation valve (4). An economizer (5) is attached to the face of the mask to the right of the inhalation valve. The exhalation valve and economizer can be swapped for your convenience. The economizer (5) through the flow indicator (8) is connected with a bayonet lock (9) to the reducer.

The headband (6) for a reliable and even attachment of the mask to the face is made of a wide rubber-cloth tape that goes in two loops through the head and neck. For a good fixation of the tape on the scalp, a rubber corrugated lining (7) is provided that moves along the tape.

Figure: 4

"POISK-HIMALAYI" (Fig. 4) - has high performance, made of organosilicon (silicone) rubber, differs from the mask "POISK-HIMALAYI LUX" only in the material of the front part. The mask is available in three sizes.

Figure: 5

"SEARCH-BASIC" (Fig. 5) - the front part (1) is made of silicone rubber, has good performance, tightly fits to the face along the line running from the bridge of the nose between the cheekbones and wings of the nose to the chin. A rubber bridge runs along the upper lip to maintain the shape of the seal. The mask comes in a universal size to suit most people with different face types and sizes.

The inhalation valve (2) is located in front directly at the level of the mouth, below the exhalation valve (3). To the right (or to the left, depending on the version) of the inhalation and exhalation valves, an economizer (4) is connected to the face mask, which is connected via a flow indicator (6) to the reducer using a bayonet lock (7).

The headband (5) for a reliable and uniform attachment of the mask to the face is made of a rubber-cloth tape that goes in two loops through the head and neck.

Figure: 6

"SEARCH-NIGHT" (Fig. 6) - composed mainly of typical, easily replaceable elements used in medicine.

The set includes: an elastic polyethylene face piece (1) with a nose clip (2) for fitting in the nose area and a strap (3) to pull to the head; economizer (4); heat and moisture exchanger (5); polyethylene tube for oxygen supply (6); modified connecting tee (7), on which the listed elements are assembled. Additionally, the mask can be equipped with a flow indicator and bayonet lock.

Below are the lists of products that must have participants in the hikes to Elbrus and Kazbek from 2 to 5 stars. There are 3 lists - for 10, 11-12 and 13-14 days (select the one you need in the drop-down list), as well as their options with and without meat.

We use freeze-dried products that are light in weight, but as a result of cooking, complete meals are obtained from them:

You can buy this package of products from us or collect it and prepare it yourself. Although it is laborious, it is not difficult and quite possible. However, it should be noted that the price of a package assembled by yourself will be about the same as when buying a ready-made package from us.

High quality.

The list of products has been compiled in such a way that the meals during the hike are high in calories, high in protein, varied and tasty. The latter is especially important, since in the mountains it is usually not important with appetite due to lack of oxygen.

Vegetarians.

We respect and support those who do not eat meat on principle. Meat is not included in freeze-dried mixtures and is packaged separately. Thus, we have the opportunity to cook on a hike and for vegetarians too. If you do not eat meat, warn us and we will prepare a vegetarian package for you. The meat in it will be replaced with nuts.

How to prepare such food?

Cooking with such a package is very easy. It is enough to boil the water, toss a certain amount of sublimate portions into it and cook for a while. It takes 5 to 30 minutes depending on the altitude you are at (the higher the longer).

Who cooks on the hike?

The food is prepared by attendants from among the participants, as is customary in a normal mountain hike. They are on duty in pairs. For one trip, each participant usually has 1-2 shifts. If the attendants do not understand something, the guides help them with this.

Grocery list

Package with meat for 11-12 days, gram Package with meat for 10 days, gram Package without meat for 11-12 days, gram Package without meat for 10 days, gram Package with meat for 13-14 days, gram Package without meat for 13-14 days, gram

Oatmeal Hercules	100
Quinoa	100
	200
Ghee	200
	280
Tomato cheese sauce (subl.)	50
Pasta (pasta)	70
Mushroom soup (subl.)	70
Buckwheat	400
Rassolnik (subl.)	140
Borscht (subl.)	210
	200
Indian curry (subl.)	210
Rosehip and hawthorn	400
Dried apricots	120
Dried pear	100
Kozinaki	220
	360
Smoked sausage	200
Parmesan cheese	200
Bread	200
Snickers Bars	400
Bee pollen	50
Beef (subl.)	200
Sugar	670
Leaf tea	100
Cocoa Nesquik	50
	200
Package weight, g.	5700
Package price, rub.	11800

Oatmeal Hercules	100
Quinoa	50
Nut Butter (from a mixture of different nuts)	150
Ghee	140
Mashed potatoes with vegetables (subl.)	210
Tomato cheese sauce (subl.)	100
Pasta (pasta)	140
Mushroom soup (subl.)	140
Buckwheat	400
Rassolnik (subl.)	140
Borscht (subl.)	210
Thai Wok with mushrooms and vegetables (subl.)	100
Indian curry (subl.)	140
Rosehip and hawthorn	320
Dried apricots	100
Dried pear	80
Kozinaki	180
Protein Bars Power Pro	240
Smoked sausage	100
Parmesan cheese	100
Bread	100
Snickers Bars	300
Bee pollen	40
Beef (subl.)	170
Sugar	535
Leaf tea	100
Cocoa Nesquik	40
A mixture of dried vegetables, herbs and spices	200
Package weight, g.	4625
Package price, rub.	9400

Oatmeal Hercules	100
Quinoa	100
Nut Butter (from a mixture of different nuts)	200
Ghee	200
Mashed potatoes with vegetables (subl.)	280
Tomato cheese sauce (subl.)	50
Pasta (pasta)	70
Mushroom soup (subl.)	70
Buckwheat	400
Rassolnik (subl.)	140
Borscht (subl.)	210
Thai Wok with mushrooms and vegetables (subl.)	200
Indian curry (subl.)	210
Rosehip and hawthorn	400
Dried apricots	120
Dried pear	100
Kozinaki	220
Protein Bars Power Pro	360
Parmesan cheese	200
Bread	200
Snickers Bars	400
Bee pollen	50
Mix of nuts	400
Sugar	670
Leaf tea	100
Cocoa Nesquik	50
A mixture of dried vegetables, herbs and spices	200
Package weight, g.	5700
Package price, rub.	11800

Oatmeal Hercules	100
Quinoa	50
Nut Butter (from a mixture of different nuts)	150
Ghee	140
Mashed potatoes with vegetables (subl.)	210
Tomato cheese sauce (subl.)	100
Pasta (pasta)	140
Mushroom soup (subl.)	140
Buckwheat	400
Rassolnik (subl.)	140
Borscht (subl.)	210
Thai Wok with mushrooms and vegetables (subl.)	100
Indian curry (subl.)	140
Rosehip and hawthorn	320
Dried apricots	100
Dried pear	80
Kozinaki	180
Protein Bars Power Pro	240
Parmesan cheese	100
Bread	100
Snickers Bars	300
Bee pollen	40
Mix of nuts	270
Sugar	535
Leaf tea	100
Cocoa Nesquik	50
A mixture of dried vegetables, herbs and spices	200
Package weight, g.	4625
Package price, rub.	9400

Oatmeal Hercules	100
Quinoa	100
Nut Butter (from a mixture of different nuts)	200
Ghee	200
Mashed potatoes with vegetables (subl.)	210
Tomato cheese sauce (subl.)	150
Pasta (pasta)	210
Mushroom soup (subl.)	210
Buckwheat	400
Rassolnik (subl.)	140
Borscht (subl.)	210
Thai Wok with mushrooms and vegetables (subl.)	200
Indian curry (subl.)	210
Rosehip and hawthorn	400
Dried apricots	120
Dried pear	120
Kozinaki	240
Protein Bars Power Pro	360
Smoked sausage	200
Parmesan cheese	200
Bread	200
Snickers Bars	400
Bee pollen	55
Beef (subl.)	200
Sugar	740
Leaf tea	100
Cocoa Nesquik	55
A mixture of dried vegetables, herbs and spices	200
Package weight, g.	6130
Package price, rub.	12700

Oatmeal Hercules	100
Quinoa	100
Nut Butter (from a mixture of different nuts)	200
Ghee	200
Mashed potatoes with vegetables (subl.)	210
Tomato cheese sauce (subl.)	150
Pasta (pasta)	210
Mushroom soup (subl.)	210
Buckwheat	400
Rassolnik (subl.)	140
Borscht (subl.)	210
Thai Wok with mushrooms and vegetables (subl.)	200
Indian curry (subl.)	210
Rosehip and hawthorn	400
Dried apricots	120
Dried pear	120
Kozinaki	240
Protein Bars Power Pro	360
Parmesan cheese	200
Bread	200
Snickers Bars	400
Bee pollen	55
Mix of nuts	430
Sugar	740
Leaf tea	100
Cocoa Nesquik	55
A mixture of dried vegetables, herbs and spices	200
Package weight, g.	6130
Package price, rub.	12700

Menevka by day.

Below is a daily change. It is approximate and can be slightly changed, but basically this is the kind of food you will find on the route When compiling the menevka, we took into account the labor costs of the participants on certain days and correlated them with the calorie intake. On difficult days, the calorie intake is higher than on days when physical activity is less.

1 day. Small transition.	Dinner. Indian curry + 10 gr. meat + 40 gr. melted butter. Dried apricots or dried pear, kozinaki. Tea with sugar. Calorie content: 781 kcal Protein: 22 gr.
2nd day. Great transition.	Breakfast. Coffee with sugar. Oatmeal + nut butter 50 gr. + melted butter 20 gr. A teaspoon of bee pollen. A decoction of hawthorn and rose hips with sugar. Dinner. Snack without cooking. Dinner. Borscht + 10 gr. meat. Dried apricots or dried pear, kozinaki. Tea with sugar. Calorie content: 2524 kcal. Protein: 98 g
3rd day. Great transition.	Breakfast. Coffee with sugar. Pasta with tomato-cheese sauce + 10 gr. meat. A teaspoon of bee pollen. A decoction of hawthorn and rose hips with sugar. Individual snack during the transition. Snickers. 1 liter of tea + 50 gr. sugar in a thermos. Dinner. Snack without cooking. Protein bar. Cheese + sausage (or nuts) + rye bread. Cocoa with sugar. Dinner. Indian curry + meat 20 gr. + 40 gr. melted butter. Dried apricots or dried pear + kozinaki. Tea with sugar. Calorie content: 2715 kcal. Protein: 102 g
4th day. Great transition.	Breakfast. Coffee with sugar. Quinoa. A teaspoon of bee pollen. A decoction of hawthorn and rose hips with sugar. Individual snack during the transition. Snickers. 1 liter of tea + 50 gr. sugar in a thermos. Dinner. Snack without cooking. Protein bar. Cheese + sausage (or nuts) + rye bread. Cocoa with sugar. Dinner. Calorie content: 2487 kcal. Protein: 95.4 g
Day 5. Small transition.	Breakfast. Coffee with sugar. Mashed potatoes with vegetables. A teaspoon of bee pollen. A decoction of hawthorn and rose hips with sugar. Individual snack during the transition. 1 liter of tea + 50 gr. sugar in a thermos. Dinner. Complete cooking. Buckwheat with meat and vegetables. Cocoa with sugar. Dinner. Borscht + 20 gr. meat. Dried apricots or dried pear + kozinaki. Tea with sugar. Calorie content: 1888 kcal. Protein: 93.6 g
6th day. Acclimati - zational output.	Breakfast. Oatmeal + nut butter 50 gr. + ghee 20 gr. A teaspoon of bee pollen. Cocoa with sugar. Dinner. Pickle + 20 gr. meat. Dried apricots or dried pear + kozinaki. A decoction of hawthorn and rose hips with sugar. Calorie content: 2436 kcal. Protein: 84 g
7 day. Relaxation.	Breakfast. Dinner. Complete cooking. Dinner. Indian curry + 10 gr. meat + 40 gr. melted butter. Dried apricots or dried pear + kozinaki. Tea with sugar. Calorie content: 2299 kcal. Protein: 90.9 g
Day 8. Climbing to the top.	Breakfast. Quinoa + peanut butter 50 gr. + ghee 20 gr. A teaspoon of bee pollen. Cocoa with sugar. Individual snacks during the transition. Snickers 2 pcs. Protein bar. Tea with sugar. 1 liter of tea + 50 gr. sugar in a thermos. Dinner. Borscht + 10 gr. meat. Dried apricots or dried pear + kozinaki. A decoction of hawthorn and rose hips with sugar. Calorie content: 2386 kcal. Protein: 84 g
Day 9. Descent.	Breakfast. Pasta with tomato-cheese sauce + 10 gr. meat. A teaspoon of bee pollen. A decoction of hawthorn and rose hips with sugar. Individual snack during the transition. Snickers. 1 liter of tea + 50 gr. sugar in a thermos. Dinner. Protein bar. Cheese + sausage (or nuts) + rye bread. Cocoa with sugar. Dinner. Thai wok with mushrooms and vegetables + 10 gr. meat. Dried apricots or dried pear + kozinaki. Tea with sugar. Calorie content: 2242 kcal. Protein: 104 g
Day 10. Reserve day.	Breakfast. Mushroom soup. A teaspoon of bee pollen. A decoction of hawthorn and rose hips with sugar. 1 liter of tea + 50 gr. sugar in a thermos. Dinner. Pickle + 10 gr. meat. Buckwheat with meat and vegetables. Cocoa with sugar. Dinner. Mashed potatoes with vegetables. Dried apricots or dried pear + kozinaki. Tea with sugar. Calorie content: 1916 kcal. Protein: 85 BC
Day 11. Reserve day. Relaxation.	Breakfast. Mashed potatoes with vegetables. A teaspoon of bee pollen. A decoction of hawthorn and rose hips with sugar. 1 liter of tea + 50 gr. sugar in a thermos. Dinner. Mushroom soup. Buckwheat with meat and vegetables. Cocoa with sugar. Dinner. Pickle + 10 gr. meat. Dried apricots or dried pear + kozinaki. Tea with sugar. Calorie content: 1958 kcal. Protein: 75 g

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