The scheme of the seam with an open cut hem. Types of seams and their application. Consignment note with a closed cut

Today we will talk about the seams that are performed on a sewing machine. Machine seams are divided into 3 main groups - connecting, finishing and edge. Having studied the types of seams, understanding how each of their seams is made and practicing on samples, you will ensure that all seams in products will be perfectly executed.

Connecting seams

Stitched seams are used to join the details of the product, and are the most common when sewing products. Seams are sewn with a simple machine stitch. The stitch length depends on the fabric and the purpose of the seam.

Rice. 1. Types of seams - connecting

Stitch seam "on edge"

To form a seam on the edge, two parts are folded with the front sides inward, the cuts are equalized and a machine line is laid at a distance of 0.5–2.0 cm from the edge.

The seam can be made both without landing, and with landing of one of the part to be sewn. When making a seam
with landing, the upper part is seated. Rib stitching is used when joining sleeves with armholes, pocket burlap parts, and other stitching stitches.

Stitch seam "in an iron"

When making a stitched seam, the seam is first stitched on the edge, then the allowances are ironed and both allowances are ironed on one of the sides. The stitch seam is used to join the side, shoulder and other seams of products made of thin fabrics.

Stitched seam "in ironing"

When performing a stitched seam, the stitching is first performed on the edge, then the line is ironed, the allowances are ironed in different directions. The seam is used to connect the side, shoulder and other seams of products.

Rice. 2. Types of seams - connecting overhead

Patch seam with open cuts

To make an overlay seam with two open cuts, the parts are laid on top of each other with their faces up and grinded at the same distance from the cuts. The cuts are left open. The width of the allowances is 0.2–0.7 cm. This type of seam is used when sewing fabric products that do not require processing - loden, sheepskin fabrics, parts of gaskets, etc.

Overlap seam with one closed cut

When making an overlay seam with one open cut, a seam seam is first performed on the edge. Then the line is ironed, the seam allowances are ironed onto one of the parts, along which a finishing line is laid on the front side. The distance from the stitching line to the stitching line depends on the model 0.5–1.0 cm.

If the model provides for two finishing lines, then the distance from the stitching line to the first stitching line is 0.2 cm. The distance from the first line to the second is 0.5–0.7 cm.

A patch stitch with one open cut is used to connect parts (for example, a yoke with a shelf) in the manufacture of clothing.

Overlapped seam with two closed cuts

a) To make a false seam with two closed sections, the edges of the sections are folded to the wrong side or swept up by 0.5–0.7 cm. One edge is placed on the other and a line is laid at a distance of 0.1–0.2 cm from the folded edges Belts, straps, cuffs, etc. are processed with this seam.

b) The second way to make a false seam with two closed sections is to bend both sections by 0.5–0.7 cm, put on the product and stitch at a distance of 0.2 mm from each edge. Used when performing backstage.

Rice. 3. Types of seams - connecting linen

french stitch

To make a French or double seam, the parts are folded inside out and stitched with a seam width of 0.3–0.5 cm. Then the part is turned right side out and the stitching seam is straightened so that it is located along the edge. The second line is laid at a distance of 0.5–0.7 cm from the fold so that the seam cut is sealed inside. This type of seam is used when sewing clothes from loose and transparent fabrics.

Stitching seam

To make a sewing seam, two parts are folded with their faces inward, the allowance for one part is cut off to 0.5 cm. Then the parts are ground down. The allowances are folded to the side of the part so as to close the smaller section. A slice of a larger allowance is folded over and a second line is laid at a distance of 0.1–0.2 cm from the folded edge. The width of the sewing seam is 0.7–1.0 cm.

Seam "in the castle"

The seam "in the lock" is similar in design to the stitching, but is performed a little differently. First, an overlay seam is performed with two open sections. Then each piece is turned to the cut
and adjust according to allowance. The lock stitch is very durable and is used when sewing products where reinforced stitching is required - work clothes, backpacks, etc.

Rice. 4. Types of seams - finishing

Topstitch

To make a stitching seam, first a stitching stitch is performed, then the seam allowances are laid out in different directions and two finishing stitches are laid on the front side at the same distance from the stitching stitch. The distance from the sewing line to the boring line depends on the model (0.2-0.5 cm), from the cut of the seam to the boring line - 0.2-0.5 cm. not allowed. For example, in leather goods.

Overstitching

To make a seam, it is necessary to mark the required width of the fold, lay the fold according to the markup and stitch. The seam is used to make folds on products.

Open seam

To sew a topstitch with an open cut, it is necessary to sew the part according to the markup, turn it to the front side and topstitch along the edge. The seam allowance remains open. Such a seam is used when making pockets, yokes, etc.

Closed seam

It is carried out in the same way as an open-cut overstitch, but the seam allowance is cut off and sewn inside with a finishing seam. Such a seam is used when making pockets, coquettes, etc.

Rice. 5. Types of seams - finishing

Patch seam with piping

Kant put between the details according to the markup, stitch. Lay the line at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm from the edge of the piping. Turn the parts to the front side, lay the allowances on one of the parts, iron. It is used when finishing seams on the front side of products and on the lining.

Turned seam with piping

Kant folded with the detail of the product, stitched. Turn the details to the front side, iron. This type of seam is used when finishing pockets, collars, bed linen, etc.

Rice. 6. Types of seams - edge

Open seam

When making a seam, the oblique trim is attached to the part of the product at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, folded to the front side and adjusted 1 mm to the right of the edge of the trim. The inner cut remains open and can be lined or left open, depending on the product.

Seam with closed cut

When making a seam, sew an oblique trim to the allowance of the product at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, wrap the allowance with an inlay, tuck the edge of the inlay and stitch at a distance of 0.2 mm from the edge. It is used when edging sections of products without lining.

edging

When performing edging with a braid, a braid with closed sections is used. The width of the ribbon is determined by the model. To make a seam, the edge of the part is wrapped with a braid folded in half, a seam is laid along the edge of the braid. It is used for edging pockets, collars and other details.

Border seam "in the frame"

To make a seam, the oblique facing must be folded in half, ironed. Apply a facing according to the markup, make a seam, bend the facing, iron. This type of seam is used when processing pockets in a frame.

Overlapping seam "In a split"

When making a seam into a split, first a stitch seam is performed “on the edge”, then the parts are turned to the front side, the seam is straightened so that it is located along the edge. The seam is used when processing belts and other double-sided parts.

Overlapping seam "in piping"

When performing a facing seam “into a split”, first a seam seam is performed “on the edge”, then the parts are turned to the front side, the seam is straightened to form a piping on one side. The seam is used in the processing of pick-ups, collars, cuffs and other parts of clothing.

Rice. 7. Types of seams - edge

Overstitched seam with closed trim

To make a seam, it is necessary to bend the inlay in half, stitch it to the part of the product along the edge at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, turn the inlay to the front side and stitch along the edge. Such a seam can be used to process the bottom of parts and sleeves, turn pockets, etc.

Overstitch with double binding

To process the seam, it is necessary to sew one side of the inlay along the edge of the part, unscrew the inlay to the front side, fold along the edge and stitch at a distance of 0.2 mm from the edge of the inlay.

Rice. 8. Narrow edge seams

Moscow seam

To perform the allowance, it is necessary to tuck in 0.5 cm and lay a line at a distance of 0.2 mm from the edge. Cut off the excess allowance, bend the edge of the part by 0.3 mm and lay the second line on top of the first. The Moscow seam is used to process the edges of products made of thin fabrics - scarves, scarves, etc.

Zigzag

To make a zigzag seam, you need to fold the cut and lay a line along the edge. The stitch width and frequency is determined by the model. Cut off excess allowance. Such a seam is used for processing the edges of flounces, sewing knitwear, etc.

Hem seam with open cut

A hem seam with an open cut is made in this way: the seam cut is processed with an overlock seam, the allowance is folded and adjusted.

Such a seam is used when bending the bottom and sleeves of products.

Hem seam with closed cut

When making a hem seam with a closed cut, the seam cut is folded over by 0.5–0.7 cm. The line is laid at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge.

Almost no creation of a garment is complete without the use of machine seams. they mainly perform a temporary function of connecting parts, etc., but the final stage in the work is often precisely the laying of machine lines, which, moreover, can have a purpose.

Machine seams are divided into groups depending on the amount of seam allowances, the number of machine lines, as well as the fastened layers of the materials being joined - that is, on the overall design. There is no clear boundary between groups of machine seams. For example, a connecting seam can also be a finishing seam, etc. In addition, a combination of different seams is not excluded. A more detailed classification of stitches, lines and seams can be considered in “GOST 12807-2003 - Sewing products. Classification of stitches, lines and seams. Below are the most popular and commonly used machine stitches and stitches, depending on their purpose.

Connecting machine seams (for fastening parts)

Connecting seam

Connecting seam - for joining cuts, attaching small parts to larger ones, attaching strips, etc. Distinguish between a stacked vzautyuzhka and a stacked vrazutyuzhka. With a stitched stitch, the seam allowances (cuts) are ironed in one direction, and with a stitched stitch, they are ironed in different directions. There are both with and without overcast cuts.

Stochny ironing

Stochnoy vrazuzhku

Connecting stitch

Connecting stitching seam - for connecting parts with overlapping one another, connecting and fixing seam allowances and folds directed in one direction. It is also often used to connect parts of a product made of dense fabrics, in order to obtain a thinner seam thickness. A distinction is made between a topstitch with open cuts and a topstitch with a closed cut.

Tuning with open cuts

Tuning with a closed cut

Connecting patch seam

Connecting patch seam - for connecting cushioning parts, when sewing coquettes, patch pockets. Distinguish overhead seam with open sections and invoice with closed sections.

Invoice with open cuts

Consignment note with a closed cut

Connecting topstitch

Connecting stitching seam - for finishing, as well as connecting parts of the product without the allowance of ironing the seams (specific materials - leather, etc.).

Connecting linen seam

Connecting linen seam - to ensure the strength and aesthetics of bedding, shirts, blouses, as well as sports equipment, industrial clothing, underwear, products made of thin fabrics. There are three types of underwear seams: underwear stitching, underwear lock and underwear double (French).

Linen zaposhivochny

linen castle

Linen double (French)

Edge machine seams (for processing edges and cuts from shedding)

Hemmed edge seam

Folded edge seam - for processing the bottom of products, sleeves and other parts from easily crumbling fabrics (when sewing linen, outerwear, etc.). There are edge hem with an open cut, hem with a closed cut and hem with a bordered cut.

Hem with open cut

Closed hem

Hem hem with banded cut

The technology of making a seam in a hem. Practical work "Performing a hem seam with open and closed cuts"

Target: familiarizationstudents with machine hem seams with open and closed cuts.

Tasks:

a) teach students to perform edge seams in compliance with the technology for performing the proposed seams and safety rules;

b) develop skills and abilities to perform edge seams; develop coordination of hand movements; broaden the horizons of students;

c) cultivate aesthetic taste, attentiveness, accuracy; develop a work culture.

Teaching methods : explanation, demonstration of visual material, execution according to the model.

Equipment : workbook, pen, work box, fabric, scissors, pencils, ruler, iron, thread, sewing machine.

Lesson type : combined.

During the classes

I. Organizational moment.

II. Repetition of the material covered.

Sh. The study of new material.

Today we will learn about the types of edge seams, their design and purpose, application, symbol. A seam is a place where two or more parts are connected with a stitch. The parts are connected to each other with seams of different widths.

Seam width - the distance from the line to the edge of the part.

Machine seams are conditionally divided into three groups: connecting, edge and finishing.

Questions:

What connecting seams do you remember? (Answer: stitch seam in an iron and in an iron).

In addition to the stitching seam, the connecting seams include: invoice, stitching, tuning, stitching, double and others.

On the basis of a stitched seam, a topstitching and a topstitching seam is performed:

1) first, two stitching seams are performed;

2) one of them is ironed, and the other is ironed;

3) lay lines

Topstitch used when connecting shoulder side relief sections, etc.

Stitching sequence :

Fold the two parts with the right sides inward, level the cuts, sweep and stitch 10 mm from the edge, performing bartacks at the beginning and end of the seam, then lay out the parts and seam allowances and iron them out, stitch them from the front side 5 mm from the seam.

What edge seams do you remember? (Answer: hem seams with closed and open cut)

Edge seams include: turning, edging seam with a closed cut, which is used in the processing of cuts of the neck, various finishing details.

Connecting seams are used to firmly connect the parts of a garment to each other. Edge seams serve to process edges and cuts and protect them from shedding.

Let's look at the purpose of some machine seams and list the operations performed with their use.

Connecting seams

Stitching seam used in the manufacture of underwear, women's shirt-cut blouses, men's shirts

Fold the two parts with the right sides inward, releasing the cut of the lower part by 5-8 mm, sweep and stitch at a distance of 5 mm from the cut, straighten the seam, bending the seam allowances towards the upper part, bend the cut of the lower part, stitch at a distance of 1-2 mm from the fold , iron.

double seam it is used when connecting separate parts of a product made of thin cotton materials, for sewing bed linen. Fold the two parts with the wrong sides inward, sweep and stitch at a distance of 5 mm from the cut, turn out, sweep, placing the seam on the fold, lay a machine line at a distance of 7 mm from the fold, iron, unfold the parts and iron the seam on one side.

Edge seams

Turned seam it is used when turning the sides, belt, valves, etc. Fold the two parts with the right sides inward so that the seam lines match, sweep and turn the parts, i.e. Lay the machine line along the contour of the part exactly along the seam line, placing bartacks at the beginning and end of the line, turn the parts on the front side, baste the seam, iron.

When performing machine seams, it is necessary to comply with the requirements that apply to the performance of machine work, i.e. technical requirements.

All internal machine stitches are made with threads in the color of the fabric.

After the work is done, the threads of all temporary lines (basting) are removed.

IV. Practical part.

To make samples of machine seams, the following equipment, tools and fixtures are needed: sewing machine, iron, scissors, needles, pins, thimble, pencil, chalk, centimeter tape, triangle, ruler, needle pad, shreds of fabric.

You have brought materials for making samples of machine seams. Now we will deal with the implementation of this task, but first we recall the briefing on labor protection.

Conversation on:

What tools that you will use today are dangerous?

Where should needles and pins be stored, and where do you store them?

What are the safety rules to follow when using a sewing machine?

The entire second lesson, the students make samples of machine seams under the supervision of a teacher. To do this, they need 6 pieces of cotton fabric measuring 20x10 cm, a needle, a ruler, cotton threads, and scissors. Perform seams in a hem with open and closed sections.

When the samples are made, it is proposed to conduct a self-test, for which the class is divided into two halves, one of which is “manufacturers”, the other is “experts”. Then they change places.

V. Summary of the lesson.

1. Consolidation of the studied material.

Questions for consolidation:

What is a seam?

What is the seam width?

What are the edge seams?

What is the difference between a stitched seam and a stitched seam?

What are the requirements for machine seams?

What seams are connected?

2. Grading, their argumentation.

VI. Homework

Glue samples of machine seams in the workbook.

Bending seam with an open cut . It is used in the processing of underwear, sleeves, inner edges of the collars, various types of facings of light clothing products.

To make a seam, you need to outline the hem line. It can be from 0.8 to 1.5 cm. Then overcast the lower cut on the overcasting machine. Sweep the cut with one or two lines, depending on the width of the seam, iron and stitch with a seam 0.6-1.3 cm wide.

Hem seam with closed cut . It is used when processing products from thin fabrics, from fabrics with crumbling sections. Hem the bottom of light clothing, trousers, skirts.

Draw two lines. The first inner line is 0.5-1.0 cm from the edge, and the second according to the model is 1.0-3.0 cm from the first. In the same sequence, they are swept up, and then the first hem is also basted on the main product. Stitched 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge.

"Moscow seam" . It is performed in two steps:

1. The bottom of the product is folded 0.3 cm and stitched 0.1 cm from the fold;

2. The bottom of the product is folded a second time and stitched. The cut is steamed by sipping under the iron.

A variety of methods are used to process clothing parts and their connection. When threading the parts and their parts, machine or hand stitches are used. Stitch- a repeating element of the thread line between needle punctures (Fig. 56). A successive row of stitches forms a stitch. The seam- the junction of two or more parts with a machine line.

Between themselves, the parts are connected with seams of various widths. Seam width - the distance from the cuts of the part to the line (Fig. 57). slice- the contour of the cut part. All machine seams are classified according to their purpose (Fig. 58).

Rice. 56. Machine stitch formation

Rice. 57. Machine stitch

Rice. 58. Types of machine seams

Connecting seams are characterized by the fact that the parts to be joined lie on both sides of the seam. The most common and simplest of the connecting seams is the stitching (Fig. 59). To perform it, the parts are folded with the front sides inward, the cuts are equalized and grinded on the machine.

Rice. 59. Seam

The edge seams include a hem seam (Fig. 60). It is used to decorate the edge of parts by bending the sections of the part itself.

Rice. 60. Hem seam

Sewing operations in the manufacture of any product are performed according to certain rules. They include different types of work: manual, machine, wet-heat. For their technologically correct implementation, it is necessary to know special terminology, to comply with certain technical conditions.

Handmade

When performing manual work, the needle is held with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, and its eye should rest against the thimble worn on the middle finger (Fig. 63). The left hand is placed on the fabric at the beginning of the seam, while the fingers should press the fabric against the table.

Rice. 63. The correct position of the needle in the hand

Machine work

When performing machine work, the following requirements must be observed:

Before performing operations, check the absence of pins in the details of the product.
Select the number of threads, machine needles, stitch frequency in accordance with the thickness and type of fabric, the purpose of the seam.
Position the seam allowances to the right of the needle, the detail of the product to the left.
Perform machine bartacks at the beginning and end of the stitch.
Lay the machine line exactly along the intended line.
Delete the threads of all temporary stitches.

Wet-thermal works

Before starting work, you should check the degree of heating of the iron.

When performing wet-heat work, the treated area of the product or part is located closer to the working one. Moisten and iron parts or products in the direction of the shared thread until completely dry after each machine operation.

There is a special terminology for designating various operations in the clothing industry (Table 7).

Table 7.1. Terminology of handicrafts

Term	The nature of the operation	Application area
	The connection of two parts, approximately equal in size, along the marked lines with temporary stitches	Basting parts of the belt, etc.
sweep up	Securing the folded edge of the part with temporary stitches	Overcasting the side and bottom sections of the apron
Tack	Temporary joining of a small part with large temporary stitches	Taping the ribbon to the product
Baste	Temporary connection of two parts superimposed on one another with temporary stitches	Basting the finishing tape on the apron

Table 7.2. Machine work terminology

Term	The nature of the operation	Application area
	Thread connection of two or more equal or approximately equal in size parts along the combined edges	Stitching product details
stitch up	Laying a stitch to secure the folded edge of a part or product	Sewing apron cuts
Sew	Joining two or more parts of different sizes	Attaching the ribbon to the product
scribble	Laying a line when applying one part to another to connect them	Attaching trim tape to an apron

Table 7.3. Terminology of wet-heat works

Term	The nature of the operation	Application area
Sanforize	Wet-heat treatment of the fabric with steam and drying to prevent subsequent shrinkage	Decating fabric before cutting
iron out	Laying out the seam allowances in different directions and fixing them in this position	Seam ironing
iron	Laying the edges of the parts on one side and fixing them in this position	Seam seam ironing
iron	Reducing the thickness of the seam or edge of the product	Seam ironing
iron	Removing fabric wrinkles on individual parts and the product as a whole	Finished product ironing

Before making a product, you need to master the techniques for performing machine seams. Technological maps 8, 9 will help you with this.

Basic terms and concepts

Stitch, line, seam, seam width, seam, seam

Questions and tasks

What is called a stitch? line? seam?
How are seams distinguished by their purpose?
How to determine the width of the seam?
What is the difference between stitched seams and edge seams?
What do you think is the difference in making a seam seam and a hem seam?
What do the terms “sweep”, “sweep”, “stitch”, “stitch” mean?
Find out if there are seamstresses among your relatives and friends. Ask them to talk about their work.

Practical work 8. Making samples of machine seams

Examine technological maps 8, 9.
Prepare your study space.
Perform samples of machine seams according to technological maps.
Check the correctness of the production of samples of machine seams.
Tidy up your classroom.

Technological map 8. Production of samples of stitched seams

Tools, materials and devices: pieces of cotton fabric, size 8? 10 cm, scissors, cotton thread No. 40 (50), bobbin, hand needle, pins, needle case, thimble, tailor's chalk (soap), ruler.

Prepare 4 pieces of fabric measuring 8x10 cm.
Set aside with a ruler 1 cm from the cut and dot with chalk or soap.
Draw a straight line through the points, parallel to the cut of the fabric, using a ruler.
Fold and chop two pieces right sides inward, matching the cuts.
Sweep and grind details. Remember! The distance between the lines should be 0.1 cm. At the beginning and at the end of the line, bartacks should be made.
Remove basting threads.
Perform wet-heat treatment; iron the seam on one sample and iron it on the other.

Test yourself! The width of the seam is uniform along the entire length; the line is even; fasteners are made; wet-heat treatment is done carefully.

Technological map 9. Production of samples of seams in a hem

Tools, materials and accessories: pieces of cotton fabric measuring 8x10 cm, cotton threads No. 40 (50), bobbin, scissors, hand needle, pins, needle case, thimble, tailor's chalk (soap), ruler.

Hem seam with open cut

Prepare 1 piece measuring 8x10 cm.
Set aside 1 cm from the top cut of the part and draw a line with a ruler.
Wrap the cut of the part on the wrong side by 1 cm along the marked line and stab.
Sweep, the width of the seam is 0.5 cm from the fold.
Stitch, observing the distance from the note line - 0.1 cm. Remember! Bartacks must be made at the beginning and end of the stitch.
Remove sewing threads.
Iron the seam.

Test yourself!

Hem seam with closed cut

Prepare 1 piece measuring 8x10 cm (for the base).
Lay the fabric wrong side out on the table, front side facing you.
Set aside 1 cm from the top cut and draw a line with a ruler.
Set aside 1 cm from the chalk line and draw a line parallel to the cut.
Wrap the cut of the part on the wrong side by 1 cm and sweep (or iron).
Wrap and stab again the fold of the part by 1 cm.
Sweep, the width of the seam is 0.3 cm from the inner fold.
Stitch, seam width - 0.1-0.2 cm from the inner fold.
Remove sewing threads.
Iron the seam.

Test yourself! The width of the seam is uniform along the entire length; the line is even; fasteners are made; the seams are neatly ironed.

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