Why is the necklace parrot evil. Necklace parrot: expert reviews. Care and feeding

This bird has an unusually beautiful green plumage with a blue tint. On the neck of an adult parrot, you can see a pink strip, the appearance of which resembles a necklace with a tie, which gave rise to the name of this species. The beak is bright red. The bird has an orange ring around its eyes. Females differ from males in that they do not have a necklace on their neck. However, males acquire a full-fledged color only by three years of age.

Necklace parrot- a very quick-witted bird. A strong attachment to the owners can serve as proof of this, for example, a parrot can start to get sick if there is a change of owner. This species is able to learn colloquial speech. Although the natural sound of a bird's voice is not particularly pleasant, a responsible and loving owner will be able to wean it from harsh cries.

Nutrition

Eating necklace parrots is very simple, because they are unpretentious and flexible. The main feed should be composed of the following proportions: 40% millet, 10% canary grass, 15% wheat, 20% oats and 10% sunflower. It is advisable to buy the beans separately and mix them yourself. This is how you can
to see the quality, and if necessary - to clean the future feed. Necklace parrots are very fond of fruits, cereals, bread soaked in milk, as well as vegetables.

Instead of boiled wheat grains given view birds prefer sprouted wheat, which can be prepared by washing the grains, soaking them for 15 hours, rinsing again and leaving them damp for a day. Serve sprouted wheat separately from the main feed, after rinsing it before feeding. Parrots also love semi-ripe corn, which can be soaked and served separately from food. Do not overdo it with nuts, because they contain a large amount of fat. You can give a couple of pine nuts and one hazelnuts a day. You don't need to feed walnuts at all.

Parrot porridge is boiled in water without absolutely any additives. In addition, birds need to be present in the diet. chicken eggs and cottage cheese. Pets give particular preference among fruits to prunes, peaches, apples and pears.

Parrots are very active birds, therefore it is necessary to find any ways to entertain them so that the energy goes back on track. One of these methods is playing with branches, which not only pleases the poultry, but also helps to sharpen the beak, which is constantly growing. It is advisable to put branches of non-poisonous plants in the cage, for example, linden, willow and aspen.

Each parrot can be tamed so that it leaves the cage without fear and even sits on the shoulder of the owner. Except when individuals of an awkward character come across, it is easy to tame necklace parrots, it is enough to have the desire and, of course, patience.

Domestication begins with placing the bird cage at the level of the owner's face. A person needs to approach the cage without sudden movements, calling the pet by name. The parrot must settle in a new place, which happens after a week. Then he must get used to eating food in the presence of the owner. From the very beginning, the bird may begin to react sharply to the presence of someone when eating, however, every day the tension will subside, and it will begin to let the owner closer. After that, you need to teach the parrot to eat from his hands, which can be done using his favorite food, for example, nuts. This stage of domestication can last for a week, until the parrot realizes that the owner will not harm him.

After that, you need to stick your hand with the treat into the cage so that the pet sits on it. When the owner manages to pull out the hand along with the bird, it means that it has become tame. In order for the parrot to sit on the shoulder, he must be released into the room and called so that he sees the delicacy. You can put a nut on your shoulder when the bird approaches.

If a chick is purchased that has just left the nesting box, then, most likely, in the first days it will be huddled in the corner of the cage. In this case, there is no need to worry. Perhaps the parrot will be afraid to approach the feeder, so some grains should be scattered along the bottom of the cage.


The parrot should be allowed to settle in a new place, to get used to the environment, people and the new cage.

When your pet begins to take food from the feeder, you can begin to teach him to hand. To do this, in the morning, before putting a portion of food in the feeder, you need to carefully stick an open palm with grains into the cage and wait for the bird to bite them. You should stick your hand in and out very slowly so that the parrot is not frightened.

After 2-3 days (often earlier), when the bird begins to confidently take food from the palm, you can complicate the task: move the palm further and further away from the parrot until the pet is forced to sit on his hand. Then you should teach him to confidently sit on the palm, and then on the finger.

Necklace parrots are very sociable birds, so the owner should spend a lot of time with them.

A bird that is not afraid to sit on your hand can be released to fly around the room. The more the parrot flies, the better it will feel.

But, it is worth noting, before letting the pet fly around the apartment, you must first close all the vents and balcony doors: having flown out into the street, the bird will not be able to find its way home.

Necessary security measures

As already mentioned, it is advisable to let a tamed ringed parrot fly around the room.

But before you give your pet freedom, you need to take care of his safety.

Parrots are not only very mobile, but also very curious birds, and if not watched during their free flight around the apartment, they can get serious injuries or even die.

So, without exception, all parrots love to sit on the door. An inattentive owner, one of the household or guests, can slam the door, and the bird, not having time to fly to another place, will receive injuries in this case: a fracture of the leg, tarsus or hip. Therefore, letting the bird fly around the room, you need to make sure that someone does not accidentally press it down with the door.

Another "enemy" of ringed parrots is window curtains with a coarse-mesh texture. Birds get entangled in them with their claws, as in a birdcatcher's fishing net, and, trying to escape, break or dislocate their paws.

Precautions must be taken before releasing the ringed parrot from its cage.

When releasing a pet to fly, it should be borne in mind that parrots sometimes walk on the floor or on sofas, armchairs and chairs. An inattentive owner may step on or sit on the bird.

In addition, parrots love to gnaw on green twigs and leaves of indoor plants, and if the flower is poisonous, the bird can be poisoned and die.

In the room where the parrot flies, there should be no jars of water and flower vases, and if there is an aquarium with fish in the house, you should cover it with glass. Sometimes parrots slide into the water and, failing to get out, die without waiting for help from their owner.

Gaps between walls and cabinets can be fatal for birds.

Such slots must be closed with a suitable batten. Of course, the free flight of a parrot around the room involves vents and windows closed or covered with a net.

Otherwise, the bird can fly out into the wild, where a not joyful existence awaits it.

In urban conditions, the parrot will not be able to find its way home and, at best, will fly into another apartment, at worst, it will die.

Parrots and other pets

Quite often, pet lovers do not stop at purchasing a ringed parrot. Often, in addition to exotic birds, other pets (cats, dogs, rats, hamsters, aquarium fish etc.).

If other pets live in the house, besides the parrot, you must be careful when letting the bird fly around the apartment.

If a parrot says something, and at the same time he opens and closes his eyes, this means that the bird listens carefully to the words.

Dogs usually quickly understand that the parrot should not be touched, and sometimes even manage to make friends with the bird. Among cats, there are also docile animals that do not offend domestic birds. But still, if a cat lives in the apartment, you need to keep an eye on the parrot when it flies around the room. After all, cats, as you know, are very cunning animals: while the owner is in the room, the cat will pretend that she does not care about the bird, but if you leave her alone with the parrot, she will immediately start hunting him.

The cat should not be allowed into the room where the cage with the parrot is located: by sticking its paw between the bars of the cage, the animal can severely injure and even strangle the bird.

A ringed parrot cannot communicate with tame crows, jackdaws, owls, ferrets, snakes, boas, squirrels, rats, etc. walking around the room. These animals do not understand the command "No!" and can eat the bird.

Many bird owners, especially parrots, face the same problem - their pets bite. Parrots have large beaks, so the injury caused by the bite can be very serious, and this behavior of the bird needs to be corrected. You can try different methods of influencing a harmful parrot before looking for a new owner for it.

Why do birds bite? There can be various reasons for this, and it is very important for you to understand why your bird bites. This will influence the technique you use to combat this habit.

Bites are not typical of parrots in wildlife... They use their beak to grab onto something when they climb trees and to eat.

A beak is to a bird what a hand is to a man. Birds resolve conflicts with each other with the help of body language and voice, and not with the help of bites.

Chick behavior: just like children and puppies who pull everything into their mouths, young birds use their beak to explore environment... The playing puppy will start squealing if a relative bites him too hard, thus making it clear that he has crossed the legal limit. In a similar way, one must teach the chick to keep within certain limits. If a chick grows alone, without relatives, he may simply not be aware that his bite is painful. Unlike a puppy who changes his behavior because he does not like loud squeals, a baby parrot may think that screaming is the right reaction and will bite even more.

Sometimes the new owner himself can unintentionally teach the parrot to bite when he puts his hand into the cage to get the bird out of there. The chick will reach with its beak to its hand in order to grab it and climb out. If the wearer pulls his hand back too quickly, the toddler will decide that the next time he needs to grab faster to get on it. And soon an attempt to grab will turn into a bite.


Rainbow or multicolor lorikeet (Trichoglossus haematodus)

Fear: "fight" or "fly away" - two options for the behavior of birds, if they are afraid of something or attack them. In the wild, birds mostly use the second option. The beak is very rarely used. Domestic birds with clipped wings, on the contrary, can bite if something scares them.

As we know, all birds have a habit of pecking, and our pets are no exception. With its bites, a bird can mark the boundaries of its territory, thus, asserting its status. Some birds quickly learn that by biting, they will get what they want, whether it be a show with the owner jumping and screaming in pain, or a trip back to the cage where there is food. Birds can also bite to avoid something unpleasant, such as claw clipping or being sent to a cage when they still want to be free.

Conduct during the mating season: it is common for many species that birds that have reached sexual maturity become aggressive during mating season... They defend their mate and territory. It is important for the owner to determine if the bird's aggression is due to a hormonal shift or if it is a sign of bad behavior.

If the bird is not feeling well, it wants to be left alone. If a bird suddenly begins to bite, which usually does not have such behavior and, in addition, there are other changes in behavior, for example, it has begun to eat less or does not want to play, then it should be shown to the veterinarian.

The bird may accidentally bite you while playing. This can happen if the bird is overexcited, or simply inadvertently grabbed onto a part of your body to maintain balance.

Learn to understand the body language of birds: they can often show how they feel and what they want. For example, they can make it clear that they have played enough and it's time to go back to the cage. If the information that the bird is trying to convey to you does not immediately reach you, then it may begin to bite.

Behavior correction. Before you start fighting biting, determine why the bird is doing this. She may be sick and need treatment.

If a bird shows its aggression in this way, then, firstly, it must be shown that a person has a higher status. To begin with, teach her the commands "up", "down", "towards me", "climb", which teach the bird to move from the perch to the owner's finger and back. Ideally, a short daily exercise should be done from the first day the bird appears in your home, even before the behavior problems develop. Training sessions should be conducted in an environment unfamiliar to the bird. If the parrot has been biting for some time, and the owner is afraid of its beak, training must be transferred to an environment that is completely new to the bird. It is unlikely that the bird will want to bite the only person it knows in this case. If necessary, try teaching the bird at a veterinary clinic. You can also ask your friends and loved ones to let you use their home for short training sessions.

Birds respond to facial expressions and verbal praise. If the bird did something right, praise it, and if not, raise your head so that you are looking at the bird from above and say "no" in a calm voice. Do not speak in a loud voice, much less shout. Their screams are associated with other birds, and they may like it very much. During training, there should be no aggression and punishment. The lesson must be continued until the bird responds willingly to commands. If she is following the command, you can end the practice, but continue using the command every time you hold the bird.

A higher position for a bird means a higher rank, so it is very important that the bird that bites is not higher than the level of the human heart, whether it is in a cage or not. Don't let these birds sit on your shoulder. This indicates a higher rank than yours, and also puts your face, ears, eyes, and lips at risk of a serious bite. The owner needs to learn to predict the bird's bite and stop it with a stern look and command before it has time to carry out its intention.

If a bird does bite you, the response should be immediate and effective. If the bird is sitting on the hand, the owner must jerk the hand to throw the bird off balance. Don't let the bird fall, it just has to lose its balance for a second. Don't put on a screaming show for the bird. Many birds need to be caged in order for them to rest, but make sure that this is exactly what they wanted with their bites. When retaliatory measures were taken, the incident was closed. Do not punish your bird by long-term isolation. Consider the nature of the parrot by applying negative rewards. Some birds just need a stern gaze, others need a stern gaze and a quiet "no", and still others need rest.

If a bird bites out of fear, it is necessary to determine exactly what kind of thing it is afraid of, or in what situation it experiences a feeling of fear. Sometimes the reason for the fear is clear, such as the sound of a vacuum cleaner. And sometimes the bird's fear seems unfounded, but perhaps something happened in its past that caused the fear of what seems harmless to us.

Once you've removed the cause of the fear, avoid reminding your bird of it. If this is not possible, try keeping the bird away from the fearful object. Move her to a distance where she is no longer afraid, praise her and give a treat if she sits calmly. Do this over the course of a week, gradually moving the bird closer to the source of its fear, but still far enough away that the bird is not nervous. Apply positive encouragement. Soon, the bird will identify the cause of fear with pleasant things and will cease to be afraid.

It is important to know the reason the bird is biting in order to control its behavior. Then after a while and with the help of an experienced bird behaviorist, you can help your bird to be kinder, more fun, calmer and happier.

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Parrots are smart and temperamental birds. They gladly go into the hands of those they trust. Therefore, the main task of the owner is to make friends with his pet. Tips from experienced poultry farmers will tell beginners how to train a parrot to hand.

Meet the bird

At first, it is better not to violate the territorial integrity of the parrot

Adapting to a new home is difficult for all birds. Parrots tolerate it very painfully, their behavior often changes from active to anxious and withdrawn. The first changes in the state of the bird can be seen already on the way from the store to the new house for it. The parrot stops chirping, often flies from place to place, or, conversely, sits motionless, carefully observing what is happening.

During the adaptation period, different options for bird behavior are possible:

  • refusal to feed;
  • stomach upset;
  • periodic throwing around the cage;
  • anxious screams;
  • inactivity and apathy.

Owner behavior rules during the adaptation period:

  1. You cannot let the bird out of the cage. The parrot must first get used to its surroundings.
  2. There is no need to impose your society on the bird. You should not often go to the cage and talk to the parrot.
  3. The cage is placed in a place inaccessible to other pets. The room does not allow loud sounds and children's games.
  4. The sound of a working TV should be low.
  • you need to talk to the bird from a distance of 2-3 meters from the cage;
  • the intonation of the voice should be affectionate;
  • during communication, you do not need to make sudden movements;
  • the food is put neatly, slowly approaching the cage and talking affectionately with the bird.

The owner's goal in the early days of the adaptation period is to make the bird feel safe.

Taming

A treat in your hands will speed up the process of establishing a relationship with a parrot.

After the parrot calms down and begins to show activity in behavior and eating food, the taming period begins. The main goal of the owner at this time is to gain confidence in himself. Taming a parrot is a long process that requires patience and careful attention to the bird..

Most effective method to interest the parrot and arouse his confidence - to feed it with a delicacy. Pet stores sell special food for this species of bird.

In addition to them, you can give:

  • pieces of sweet fruit;
  • fresh herbs;
  • raw vegetables.

If the bird is frightened by the hand, the pieces of feed are attached to a toothpick or cocktail straw and the food is pulled through the bars of the cage. Gradually, the parrot will get used to the owner and will cease to be afraid of his hands.

Parrots remember grudges. They can forgive the bad attitude of the owner with whom they have lived for many years. But the new owner will be shunned for a long time.

How to train a budgerigar to hand

With the young budgerigars getting along is much easier than with adults

Budget parrots begin to be tamed in the same way: with the help of a treat. Gradually, the bird will get used to it and will begin to receive only positive emotions from the presence of the owner. The easiest way is to gain the trust of young individuals. It is more difficult with adults, they can be wary of the new owner for a long time. But you can get along with them too. Several methods are used to make contact:

  • talk affectionately;
  • tasty food;
  • they choose the right moments for communication: the bird should be active, sleepy, not frightened.

If you cannot attract the pet's attention with the help of a treat, you need to carefully observe it for some time. It is important to understand his character, what he likes to do at a time when he thinks that no one is watching him. Many budgies like to swing on a perch or ring a bell.

If the bird does not have a favorite toy, they put the most different ones in the cage: balls, colored pieces of paper, beautiful pebbles. When the parrot is interested in one of them, they begin the process of domestication. Gradually move their favorite toy to their hand, thereby forcing the bird to climb onto the finger. Daily training will certainly lead to the desired result.

How to train your necklace parrot

The necklace parrot is not easy to approach

The pearl parrot is a bird with character. In taming it, much depends on age and upbringing. If the parrot is older than three years, all the tricks of the owner about taming may be useless.... An adult bird can remain “wild” forever.

The methods of raising a necklace parrot are the same:

  • gaining trust;
  • feeding with treats;
  • hand training.

Birds of this breed understand and remember intonations very well. They always recognize the falsehood. Therefore, domestication classes are held at moments Have a good mood and with a sincerely affectionate attitude towards the bird.

Taming stages:

  1. They are taught to calmly react to the owner's hand located next to the cage. At this stage, the palm should be motionless. At the same time, with the other hand, you can offer a treat on a toothpick or any other long stick. They talk affectionately.
  2. Slowly bringing their hand closer to the cage, they begin to wiggle their fingers. If this does not frighten the bird, they continue to train it to hand. If the parrot is alarmed, stop moving the fingers. After a while, the attempt is repeated.
  3. They put their hand into the cage and repeat the training process.
  4. They put a treat in the palm of their hand and offer it to the parrot. Repeat until the bird gets used to it and begins to eat food.
  5. Move the treat closer to the middle of the palm, forcing the parrot to move along the hand.

Necklaces are one of the few parrot breeds that can live in the wild and provide food for themselves. By their nature, these are typically "aviary" birds. The most susceptible to training are individuals raised by their parents. Adults caught in the wild may not make contact with humans for the rest of their lives.

In taming the necklace parrot, communication is most effective when it is out of the cage.... You should not strive to approach him or gradually reduce the distance, since, obeying instinct, he will fly away. The necklace parrot needs to be interested in a toy or a treat.

Taming a lovebird parrot

An apple or grape can bond a friendship with a lovebird.

There is one peculiarity in the taming of lovebirds - these birds consider the territory of the cage as their own and actively defend it. If the parrot is not yet accustomed to and does not trust the owner, he can peck the hand extended into the cage. But the reason for this behavior may lie not only in the natural alertness of the bird.

Lovebirds often sit quietly on the owner's shoulder, but they may not go into their arms. The bird may have been frightened by the former owner, employees, or customers of the pet store. Fear of hands can also be caused by the fact that they caught the feathered one, and not with a butterfly net.

In this case, you need to try very hard to create absolute trust. As a rule, with due persistence, several months are enough for this.

Lovebirds' favorite treats:

  • carrot;
  • Apple;
  • grape;
  • Bell pepper.

The methods for taming lovebirds are no different from those listed above.

We accustom the parrot to the hands of Rosella

Rosella can be drawn into your arms with some bright trinket

Rosellas are intelligent parrots, docile, but wary. They are more difficult to get used to humans than budgies and lovebirds.

The basic principles of communicating with the Rosellas are the same:

  • gradualness;
  • weasel;
  • lack of sudden movements;
  • regularity of attempts.

You can use their natural curiosity to tame a parrot.... In this case, not only food is placed on the palm, but also some bright, shiny object. Over time, the bird will overcome fear and begin to stand on the palm, first with one paw, and then with both.

How to speed up the process

The main thing in the process of hand training a parrot is patience.

There is no quick method for taming parrots. The desired results are achieved gradually and slowly. The speed of hand training depends on many factors:

  • the nature of the bird;
  • her past experience;
  • conditions in which she is currently located.

For taming purposes, it is important to use every opportunity. While walking the bird outside the cage, you can lure it by putting your favorite treat or toy on your hand. At the same time, they are treated kindly, called by name, persuaded.

Learning difficulties

An unsuccessful attempt to establish contact with a parrot can be the last

If the bird does not make contact for a long time, and the owner runs out of patience, some owners decide to use forceful method... It consists in wrapping the bird with a towel and communicating with it in this state. For those who do not want to completely ruin the relationship with their pet, it is better not to use such dubious methods.

A smart bird will surely remember that it was in the hands of its owner, being in a defenseless state. This fear will be difficult to eliminate. Wing clipping will not work either. If the parrot is afraid of the owner, he will run away from him on his feet.

A tame bird will become only when it begins to consider a person as part of a flock. This is possible only with full confidence in the owner. It is achieved with patience, attention and affection - remember this.

Getting used to hands is a complex and delicate process, general recommendations are divided into several stages. Besides different types parrots differently perceive the desire of the owners to hold them on the hand.

General rules: how to tame a parrot to your hands

You need to take the domestication process seriously and try to do it in stages, without missing anything. Until the previous point has been worked out until complete implementation, you should not move on to the next one: if the parrot does not learn properly, it will never want to sit on your hand. Moreover, the parrot can become nervous and even aggressive. Domestication doesn't have to be rush.

From the very beginning of the parrot's stay in your house, interest him in communication.

Don't be intrusive!

Do not immediately "bring down" long and loud speeches on the bird, start talking to him gently and affectionately little by little, from afar, reducing the distance to his home from day to day.

This can be difficult and can take a long time, because it is necessary to ensure that the bird not only does not get nervous from your voice, but also begins to show interest in the words.

First, just talk to him. every time you pass the parrot. At some point, linger near the cage and clearly and calmly bring his name several times, gently "purr" with him. Never try to pick up the parrot right away. Doing so will only undermine your confidence.

Motivation with your favorite food

You already know that your parrot is, and do not put this particular food in his feeder now. When you start a conversation with him, slowly walk up to the parrot, gently open the door of the cage and, speaking affectionately, put the treat in the feeder or try to give it from your hand, but inside his "house". This must be repeated many times until the parrot is already waiting for a treat at the beginning of a conversation. If the parrot is afraid of hands, treat him through the bars.


Now let's try to give the same treat through the open door; the parrot no longer just waits for it to be treated, but sits in the doorway when the hand approaches it, and takes food without fear.

Budget parrots are easier to tame!

Tame budgerigar you can quickly get to your hands in this way - they are the most fearless in relation to the owner and often already at this stage jump onto the hand.

Other breeds of parrots are more fearful, therefore it is not worth being upset if your parrot does not jump onto your hand, you need a little more patience.

We invite you to sit on your hand

The most difficult stage is to get the parrot to sit on your hand when you lure him out with a “tasty treat”, while not forgetting to talk to him. When the owners are thinking about how to teach an adult budgerigar to switch to hand, they may be disappointed during training, because they are sure that it is the "waves" that will do it quickly. But any adult parrot is more difficult to train than a small one.

Please be patient:

It is this stage (transition to the hand) that can be very extended in time even when training a chick: it happens that this will take more than one week or even more than one month.

Do not despair, we show firmness and patience: if the bird takes food from the hand through the open door, but does not want to jump onto the hand, literally a centimeter each time move your hand away from the opening, do not give treats if the parrot has not jumped over to you.


It didn't work out - treat yourself to close range, be sure to kindly praise, and next time try to move your hand a little. Sooner or later, the bird will certainly jump onto the hand, because reaching for food is not very convenient!

How to train a parrot to fly to you

Your parrot is already fearlessly jumping onto your hand, now you need to make it fly towards you. Everything is the same as in the previous paragraph - slowly, day after day, we increase the distance so that it is already far away for a jump, and the bird will have to first flutter, and then fly.

Do not be discouraged if:

At first, the pet will fly in, grab the food and fly away with it and somewhere on the sidelines will already begin to eat. There is nothing wrong with that, this is not a reason to be disappointed and swear at the bird, we continue to praise and talk affectionately, slowly trying to come up and stand next to him while he eats.

Gradually, the parrot will understand that you are not going to take away the food, that there is no threat from you, and the moment will come when he will arrive, take food and start eating already on his hand.

Features of taming some species of parrots to the hands

How to tame an adult budgerigar to your hands is described above, it is a matter of time, but it is advisable to start this, when he is still small then you can do it much faster. But, for example, in the question of how to tame a necklace parrot there are certain subtleties.

Necklace parrots take a very long time to mature and they are considered fully adults when they turn 3 years old. Up to 3 years old, they study well, they are very friendly to the owner, they can be easily taught to speak. If before this age you already think about how to tame a necklace parrot to your hands, there will be no difficulties, we will conduct training according to the plan given above.

But if you already got an adult parrot over 3 years old, or you have not worked with him before, then you should not start at all - an adult necklace parrot almost completely loses interest in learning, it is unrealistically difficult to teach him to fly over to his hand, and he is unlikely to speak ...

A separate topic - how to tame a parrot cockatiel... Though they are cheerful, cheerful and lively birds, they are at the same time rather shy. The owners of cockatiels, by the way, often make a serious mistake, trying to teach their pets to talk, which are not yet accustomed to hands. Cockatiels are also very vindictive: if they have a negative experience of communicating with the previous owner, they are very distrustful and fearful and any training can take months or even years!

Show patience, do not rush, and in no case starve the cockatiel if the bird refuses to learn - cockatiels have such a fast metabolism that even a small break in feeding can seriously affect their health. Therefore, if the Corella is stubborn at some stage, in no case we are in a hurry and stubbornly strive to achieve success.

Watch a video on how to tame a budgerigar to your hands.

 

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