How to make clay currants. Modeling black currant from cold porcelain - master class

To make such a twig, we need:

Epoxy resin;

Baked polymer clay;

Self-hardening polymer clay or " cold porcelain";

Wire;

Oil and acrylic paints;

Disposable container for mixing components.

1. First, consider a live branch of currants, pay attention to the size and location of the berries, the size of the seeds.

2. I make currant berries from epoxy resin. In this case, I use the usual resin and hardener 921 (op), which means optical, that is, the most transparent and colorless. The instructions indicate a mixing ratio of 2: 1 - 2 parts resin and 1 part hardener. Use gloves as a safety measure.

3. First, pour the resin into a dry disposable container, then the hardener.

4. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spatula or skewer. I do this for a few minutes. I recommend pouring it into a similar dry container and stir again. The resin may not cure due to misbalance or poor mixing of the components.

5. It takes about a day for epoxy to cure completely. During this time, it goes through several stages - from fluid to solid state.

We are interested in the so-called "rubber stage". Empirically, I found out that this state of the resin begins from the 5th hour of hardening, it no longer sticks and does not stain hands, and within about 1.5 hours the resin can be given the desired shape without much difficulty.

So, on a smooth surface, for example, a lid from a food container, apply resin in separate drops.

6. We have time to prepare necessary details... For the seeds, we need baked polymer clay of a suitable color. If for the bones you will use self-hardening clay or "cold porcelain", then I recommend making the bones in advance, no later than a day in advance - this is necessary in order for such clay to dry. Otherwise, the resin may become cloudy on contact with moisture.

7. Knead the clay, roll it into a thin sausage and cut it with a clerical knife. I bake the bones on foil in the oven at 120 degrees for 5-8 minutes.

8. A couple of hours passed. The resin thickens, looks like stringy honey. Select one drop and periodically check its condition with a toothpick - this will help you understand when the stage of interest to us comes.

9. A little more than 5 hours have passed. The resin has entered the "rubber stage". On top of the drops, we apply bones from polymer clay.

10. I separate the drop from the surface. It is so flexible that it can be pulled into a string, it does not get dirty anymore.

11. I roll the drop with the bones inward.

12. Roll a ball of resin in the palm of my hand. For tiny berries I use one small drop, for larger berries I add 2 or 3 drops. I spread the balls to dry on a foam sponge.

IMPORTANT! While the "rubber stage" lasts, the resin ball may "float" and lose its shape. Within 1.5 hours, I control this process, periodically rolling up future berries. Closer to the 7th hour, you will already feel that the berry has hardened so much that it will no longer be possible to give a different shape.

13. In order for the currant twig to look as realistic as possible, it is important not only to give the berries transparency. For the pedicels, I use a thin wire. Here, at the most opportune time, floristic wire in white winding No. 33 or wire for beads, which must first be sanded, is suitable.

14. If you are using a wire for beads, then already on this stage you can fix a piece of wire in the resin by gently sticking it into the ball.

15. If wire wrapped is used, it will be difficult to gently insert it into the resin. In this case, you need to wait until the ball has completely cured and make a hole with a thin drill. Secure the wire with super glue.

16. Leave the beads until final hardening.

17. In order to paint the berries, I use acrylic paint "Neapolitan beige" diluted in half with water. I use the "0" brush to train on different surfaces.

18. I paint the berries from the center of the top to the wire.

19. For the berries to acquire a beautiful color and gloss, I use stained glass paints. I mix red and yellow colors for a warm berry shade and be sure to add a thinner, since stained glass paints have a fairly concentrated color. (pictured red stained glass paint and thinner)

20. After mixing the paints in a suitable container (perfume cap), I dip the berries and collect the drops of paint on the edge of the cap.

21. Turning the berry over, carefully remove the excess paint with a napkin.

22. Drying. Paints dry faster with thinner. After 2 hours, the berries can be picked up without fear of getting dirty.

23. For the stem and leaves, I will need a piece of "cold porcelain" dyed in a delicate green. I paint the clay with yellow and green oil paints.

24. I am preparing the stem to which I will attach the berries. To do this, I first roll the wire with my fingers with a piece of green clay.

25. Then, on a hard, even surface, I roll the wire with clay, pressing with force.

26. I continue painting the clay with brown oil paints. We will need this piece of clay to make the tails of the berry.

27. In the file-corner, using a ruler, a stack or nails, I thin out a small piece of clay.

28. On half of the rolled clay I lay a thin layer of napkin, having previously stratified it. Using my fingernail I rub the napkin to the clay.

29. Detach the clay from the corner folder and roll it on the other side of the napkin. It turned out to be the thinnest layer of clay, reinforced with a paper napkin.

30. I cut off small squares, in an amount equal to the number of berries.

31. With wet fingers on the tip of the stack, I form future ponytails. You can cut the ponytails with scissors to enhance the effect.

32. Similarly, using a napkin, I roll out green clay. I cut out a strip about 0.5 cm wide. I cut off tiny elongated triangles from the strip - these are the future stipules.

33. Using super glue, I attach the tail to the center of the top of the berry.

34. I cut off the excess.

35. I paint the wire with a mixture of acrylic paints yellow and green colors and latex glue.

IMPORTANT! Do not forget that the wire for the beads must be pre-sanded.

36. The clay on the stem is a little dry. Using a spiral needle, I make small holes 1-2 mm deep, pushing back the clay.

37. I strengthen the berries, starting with the smallest one. Having previously cut the wire to the required length, I dip the edge of the wire 1-2 mm in instant glue "Super-moment Gel". And I instantly glue it into the prepared holes, pressing the wire with a needle. Above the place where the wire is attached, I fix a tiny stipule with any glue.

38. I continue to fix the larger berries. I do not forget to close the attachment point with a stipule.

39. When all the berries are in place, using pliers, I give the twig a beautiful bend.

40. I cut a piece of "clay napkin" as in the picture below.

41. With the help of a tape, I fasten the previous part at the base of the branch. Thus, I imitate the dried buds of failed twigs.

42. Roll out a piece of green clay in the shape of a suitable mold. I add texture.

43. A piece of wire previously rolled in green clay, I glue it into the central vein of the future sheet.

44. Using scissors, I shape the sheet.

45. When the leaf is dry, I give it a brighter green color using oil paint.

46. I accent the edges with red oil paint. With a piece of green clay and water I "wash out" the central vein.

47. First, I attach one sheet with tape.

48. Then the second sheet. The twig can be rolled in with clay.

49. This twig can be used in an interior composition or as a decoration.

Somehow like this! I made a gooseberry twig according to the same scheme.

I wish you creative success!

When copying a master class, please refer to the source.

To make such a twig, we need:
- epoxy resin;
- baked polymer clay;
- self-hardening polymer clay or "cold porcelain";
- wire;
- oil and acrylic paints;
- glue;
- disposable container for mixing components.

1. First, consider a live branch of currants, pay attention to the size and location of the berries, the size of the seeds.

3. First, pour the resin into a dry disposable container, then the hardener.

5. It takes about a day for epoxy to cure completely. During this time, it goes through several stages - from fluid to solid state.
We are interested in the so-called "rubber stage". Empirically, I found out that this state of the resin begins from the 5th hour of hardening, it no longer sticks and does not stain hands, and within about 1.5 hours the resin can be given the desired shape without much difficulty.
So, on a smooth surface, for example, a lid from a food container, apply resin in separate drops.

6. We have time to prepare the required parts. For the seeds, we need baked polymer clay of a suitable color. If for the bones you will use self-hardening clay or "cold porcelain", then I recommend making the bones in advance, no later than a day in advance - this is necessary in order for such clay to dry. Otherwise, the resin may become cloudy on contact with moisture.

7. Knead the clay, roll it into a thin sausage and cut it with a clerical knife. I bake the bones on foil in the oven at 120 degrees for 5-8 minutes.

9. A little more than 5 hours have passed. The resin has entered the "rubber stage". On top of the drops, we apply polymer clay bones.

10. I separate the drop from the surface. It is so flexible that it can be pulled into a string, it does not get dirty anymore.

11. I roll the drop with the bones inward.

12. Roll a ball of resin in the palm of my hand. For tiny berries I use one small drop, for larger berries I add 2 or 3 drops. I spread the balls to dry on a foam sponge.
IMPORTANT! While the "rubber stage" lasts, the resin ball may "float" and lose its shape. Within 1.5 hours, I control this process, periodically rolling up future berries. Closer to the 7th hour, you will already feel that the berry has hardened so much that it will no longer be possible to give a different shape.

14. If you are using a wire for beads, then already at this stage you can fix the piece of wire in the resin by gently sticking it into the ball.

16. Leave the beads until final hardening.

17. In order to paint the berries, I use acrylic paint "Neapolitan beige" diluted in half with water. I use the "0" brush to train on different surfaces.

18. I paint the berries from the center of the top to the wire.

20. After mixing the paints in a suitable container (perfume cap), I dip the berries and collect the drops of paint on the edge of the cap.

21. Turning the berry over, carefully remove the excess paint with a napkin.

22. Drying. Paints dry faster with thinner. After 2 hours, the berries can be picked up without fear of getting dirty.

23. For the stem and leaves, I will need a piece of "cold porcelain" dyed in a delicate green. I paint the clay with yellow and green oil paints.

24. I am preparing the stem to which I will attach the berries. To do this, I first roll the wire with my fingers with a piece of green clay.

25. Then, on a hard, even surface, I roll the wire with clay, pressing with force.

26. I continue painting the clay with brown oil paints. We will need this piece of clay to make the tails of the berry.

27. In the file-corner, using a ruler, a stack or nails, I thin out a small piece of clay.

28. On half of the rolled clay I lay a thin layer of napkin, having previously stratified it. Using my fingernail I rub the napkin to the clay.

29. Detach the clay from the corner folder and roll it on the other side of the napkin. It turned out to be the thinnest layer of clay, reinforced with a paper napkin.

30. I cut off small squares, in an amount equal to the number of berries.

31. With wet fingers on the tip of the stack, I form future ponytails. You can cut the ponytails with scissors to enhance the effect.

32. Similarly, using a napkin, I roll out green clay. I cut out a strip about 0.5 cm wide. I cut off tiny elongated triangles from the strip - these are the future stipules.

33. Using super glue, I attach the tail to the center of the top of the berry.

34. I cut off the excess.

35. I paint the wire with a mixture of yellow and green acrylic paints and latex glue.
IMPORTANT! Do not forget that the wire for the beads must be pre-sanded.

36. The clay on the stem is a little dry. Using a spiral needle, I make small holes 1-2 mm deep, pushing back the clay.

38. I continue to fix the larger berries. I do not forget to close the attachment point with a stipule.

39. When all the berries are in place, using pliers, I give the twig a beautiful bend.

40. I cut a piece of "clay napkin" as in the picture below.

41. With the help of a tape, I fasten the previous part at the base of the branch. Thus, I imitate the dried buds of failed twigs.

42. Roll out a piece of green clay in the shape of a suitable mold. I add texture.

43. A piece of wire previously rolled in green clay, I glue it into the central vein of the future sheet.

44. Using scissors, I shape the sheet.

45. When the leaf is dry, I give it a brighter green color using oil paint.

46. I accent the edges with red oil paint. With a piece of green clay and water I "wash out" the central vein.

47. First, I attach one sheet with tape.

48. Then the second sheet. The twig can be rolled in with clay.

49. This twig can be used in an interior composition or as a decoration.

Somehow like this! I made a gooseberry twig according to the same scheme.
I wish you creative success!
When copying a master class, please refer to the source.

This is a job, I'm just delighted, and I also have time to snap 50 photos, admirable! Which is what I indulge in! Quote from Elena Grebennikova's post.

В В To make such a branch, we need:
- epoxy resin;
- baked polymer clay;
- self-hardening polymer clay or "cold porcelain";
- wire;
- oil and acrylic paints;
- glue;
- disposable container for mixing components.

В 1. To begin with, consider a live branch of currants, pay attention to the size and location of the berries, the size of the seeds.

В 2. I make currant berries from epoxy resin. In this case, I use the usual resin and hardener 921 (op), which means optical, that is, the most transparent and colorless. The instructions indicate a mixing ratio of 2: 1 - 2 parts resin and 1 part hardener. Use gloves as a safety measure.

В В 3. In a dry disposable container, first pour the resin, then the hardener.

В В 4. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spatula or skewer. I do this for a few minutes. I recommend pouring it into a similar dry container and stir again. The resin may not cure due to misbalance or poor mixing of the components.

В В 5. It takes about a day for epoxy resin to harden completely. During this time, it goes through several stages - from fluid to solid state.
We are interested in the so-called "rubber stage". Empirically, I found out that this state of the resin begins from the 5th hour of hardening, it no longer sticks and does not stain hands, and within about 1.5 hours the resin can be given the desired shape without much difficulty.
So, on a smooth surface, for example, a lid from a food container, apply resin in separate drops.

Q Q 6. We have time to prepare the necessary parts. For the seeds, we need baked polymer clay of a suitable color. If you are going to use self-hardening clay or "cold porcelain" for the bones, then I recommend making the bones in advance, no later than a day in advance - this is necessary in order for such clay to dry. Otherwise, the resin may become cloudy on contact with moisture.

В В 7. I knead the clay, roll it into a thin sausage and cut it with a clerical knife. I bake the bones on foil in the oven at 120 degrees B for 5-8 minutes.

В В 8. A couple of hours passed. The resin thickens, looks like stringy honey. Select one drop and periodically check its condition with a toothpick - this will help you understand when the stage of interest to us comes.

В В 9. A little more than 5 hours passed. The resin has entered the "rubber stage". On top of the drops, we apply polymer clay bones.

В В 10. Separate the drop from the surface. It is so flexible that it can be pulled into a string, it does not get dirty anymore.

At 11. I roll the drop with the bones inward.

12. Roll a ball of resin in the palm of my hand. For tiny berries I use one small drop, for larger berries I add 2 or 3 drops. I spread the balls to dry on a foam sponge.
B B B IMPORTANT B While the “rubber stage” lasts, the resin ball may “float” and lose its shape. Within 1.5 hours, I control this process, periodically rolling up future berries. Closer to the 7th hour, you will already feel that the berry has hardened so much that it will no longer be possible to give a different shape.

В В 13. In order for the currant sprig to look as realistic as possible, it is important not only to give the berries transparency. For the pedicels, I use a thin wire. Here, at the most opportune time, floristic wire in white winding No. 33 or wire for beads, which must first be sanded, is suitable.

В В В 14. If you are using a wire for beads, then already at this stage you can fix a piece of wire in the resin by carefully sticking it into the ball.

В В 15. If a wire is used in the winding, then it will be difficult to carefully insert it into the resin. In this case, you need to wait until the ball has completely cured and make a hole with a thin drill. Secure the wire with super glue.

В В 16. Leave the beads until final hardening.

В В 17. In order to paint the berries, I use acrylic paint "Neapolitan beige" diluted in half with water. I use the "0" brush to train on different surfaces.

В В 18. I paint the berries from the center of the top to the wire.

В В 19. For the berries to acquire a beautiful color and gloss, I use stained glass paints. I mix red and yellow colors for a warm berry shade and be sure to add a thinner, since stained glass paints have a fairly concentrated color. (pictured red stained glass paint and thinner)

В В 20. After mixing the paints in a suitable container (perfume cap), I dip the berries and collect the drops of paint on the edge of the cap.

В В 21. Turning the berry over, carefully remove the excess paint with a napkin.

B B 22. Drying. Paints dry faster with thinner. After 2 hours, the berries can be picked up without fear of getting dirty.

23. For the stem and leaves, I will need a piece of "cold porcelain" painted in a delicate green. I paint the clay with yellow and green oil paints.

24. I am preparing the stem to which I will attach the berries. To do this, I first roll the wire with my fingers with a piece of green clay.

В В 25. Then, on a hard, even surface, I roll a wire with clay, pressing with effort.

В В 26. I continue to paint the clay, adding brown oil paints. We will need this piece of clay to make the tails of the berry.

В В 27. In a file-corner, using a ruler, a stack or nails, I thin out a small piece of clay.

В В 28. On half of the rolled clay I lay a thin layer of napkin, having previously stratified it. Using my fingernail I rub the napkin to the clay.

В В 29. I detach the clay from the folder-corner and "roll" it on the other side of the napkin. It turned out to be the thinnest layer of clay, reinforced with a paper napkin.

В В 30. I cut off small squares, in an amount equal to the number of berries.

В В 31. With wet fingers on the tip of the stack, I form future ponytails. You can cut the ponytails with scissors to enhance the effect.

В В 32. Similarly, using a napkin, I roll out green clay. I cut out a strip B about 0.5 cm wide. I cut off tiny elongated triangles from the strip - these are the future stipules.

В В 33. With the help of super-glue I attach the tail to the center of the top of the berry.

В В 34. I cut off the excess.

В В 35. I paint the wire with a mixture of yellow and green acrylic paints and latex glue.
IMPORTANT! Do not forget that the wire for the beads must be pre-sanded.

В В 36. The clay on the stem has dried a little. Using a spiral needle, I make small holes 1-2 mm deep, pushing back the clay.

В В 37. I strengthen the berries, starting with the smallest one. Having previously cut the wire to the required length, I dip the edge of the wire 1-2 mm in instant glue "Super-moment Gel". And I instantly glue it into the prepared holes, pressing the wire with a needle. Above the place where the wire is attached, I fix a tiny stipule with any glue.

В В 38. I continue to fix the larger berries. I do not forget to close the attachment point with a stipule.

В В 39. When all the berries are in place, with the help of pliers I give the branch a beautiful bend.

В В 40. I cut a piece of "clay napkin" as in the picture below.

В В 41. With the help of a tape, I fasten the previous part at the base of the branch. Thus, I imitate the dried buds of failed twigs.

A small sprig of red currant (in the future it became a brooch). The berries are molded of transparent polymer clay, the leaves and a sprig are made of cold porcelain (self-hardening polymer clay). Not the whole process was filmed, unfortunately, I did not think that anything would work out at all, it was just an experiment. (9 photos)

of course I missed the color of the leaves, mixed too much paint, it was necessary to make yellow and only then tint dry with green paint

Here is a sample kit for making such a twig. Clay is transparent, ordinary cold porcelain, beaded wire, floral tape for assembling all the details, molds for texture imprints.

I used sesame seeds as seeds. Wrapping it like a filling in pies, then roll the berry and insert the wire.

These are the berries on the legs, they dry for about a day, becoming completely transparent. The wire is then rolled thin layer green clay.

I have homemade molds for texture imprints made of construction silicone, taken from a living currant leaf. Then the wire is glued into the leaf and rolled in with clay, forming a leg.

After the berries have dried, I paint with a paste from the core of a red ballpoint pen diluted in glossy varnish. Can be painted over with stained glass and then varnished on top.

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