Do-it-yourself soil for a greenhouse. How to prepare the soil for the greenhouse for the new season in spring. How to prepare the soil for the greenhouse for the winter

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You will also be very surprised, but the fish head at the bottom of the hole is the perfect fertilizer!

Preliminary soil preparation

But note that the most dangerous moisture for greenhouse tomatoes is soil moisture. Wet, compacted soil quickly contributes to the development of all kinds of diseases. Check your prepared soil mixture for moisture: make a lump, and if it crumbles easily when touched, then everything is in order.

It retains moisture well, but does not turn into a swamp.

The simplest procedure


- recommended against root rot, fusarium and verticillary wilting, keel, blackleg, it can be indispensable for complex soil diseases. Spraying must be done no later than a month before planting seedlings. It is permissible to use no more than 2 liters of solution per square meter of area, after which the earth must be dug up.

There is one answer among specialists to the question of how to disinfect the soil in a greenhouse - this is impossible and the best way is a simple replacement of the ground, if not all, then at least the top level of 5-8 cm.

, Remove all remnants of old vegetation. Do not forget to test them at the maximum possible depth, and 50 cm is not the limit here, given the roots. Not only plant residues are subject to removal, but also small items of all kinds of devices, ropes, sticks that were used in the process of caring for the crop.

  1. Let's make a reservation right away that for this you may have to work with a shovel. The main condition for fertility is the high content of earthworms in the earth, since they are better than any chemical fertilizers will prepare the greenhouse soil for the next gardening season.
  2. A good harvest and the health of crops planted in greenhouses depends on many factors. This is the location of the beds, and the dependence of different varieties of crops on the time of their planting, and the abundance or lack of moisture and, of course, soil preparation in the greenhouse.

After planting the seedlings in the greenhouse, observe the upper leaves. If within a week they become greasy, brittle and curl - you have an obvious overfeeding with nitrogen, somewhere in the preparation of the beds you overdid it with greens. To save future tomatoes, spill the soil well, literally washing out nitrates, and feed with potassium sulfate at a double rate at once. Then cover 5 cm with fresh sawdust, but remove after a couple of weeks. If you do not do all this, fruiting will be postponed at least half a month.

Remember that calcium deficiency is most dangerous for greenhouse tomatoes, especially when combined with other deficiencies. When the fruits begin to pour, the top rot will immediately come out. Therefore, be sure to feed the beds with these elements even during their preparation.

We saturate the soil with humus

Many craftsmen use almost one sand as a substrate, so that it instantly dries up and is saturated with oxygen. But then the very process of growing tomatoes is already different from the usual one.

Has optimal acidity pH - in the range of 6.5-7.

If not every year, then regularly every 2-3 years it is recommended to renew the land in the greenhouse.

Why earthworms are so important


But, by and large, more active intervention is indispensable here. SecondlyYou can improve the quality of the soil by using a bacterial cocktail as watering. It consists of a solution containing a certain set of bacteria, which are entrusted with the function of processing nitrogen, which is in excess in the soil. As a result of the action of these bacteria, the soil for tomatoes in the greenhouse will be enriched with nitrogen, which, in turn, will increase both plant growth and their yield.

Since tomatoes are one of the most popular types of greenhouse crops, more than half of all greenhouses available to summer residents are allocated for their cultivation. And it is very important to know: what kind of soil should be for tomatoes in a greenhouse in order to get a good harvest of large, juicy, and most importantly useful fruits?

We fertilize the ground in the greenhouse


But if the seedlings were planted on warm soil, and they were not flooded with water, but the lower leaves turned yellow, you just provided a little nitrogen. Although here it is already much easier to solve the problem, since the modern market offers a lot of organomineral dressings. Just pour a couple of times with a half-diluted solution and mulch with organic matter.

  1. So, he prepares greenhouse soil for tomatoes since autumn:
  • Remember one very important rule: the soil prepared for the greenhouse must smell like earth! Moreover, the smell is pleasant, and any third-party smell indicates that there is a lack of organic matter in the substrate or other undeclared elements are present.
  • Contains all the necessary components for growing tomatoes.
  • The process of solving the problem of how to update the land in the greenhouse is as follows:
  1. - mainly used to fight fungi and bacteria on the plants themselves. The application is carried out in the form of fumigation of a closed greenhouse at the rate of 80 grams of substance per cubic meter of greenhouse volume. If you are unlucky and a spider mite has settled in the greenhouse, double the dose. The technology of application provides for the installation of several metal pallets with glowing coals in the room, on which sulfur or sulfur bombs are placed.

, Carefully break up the lumps and level the entire surface. In no case do not tamp the earth, let it breathe and rest after the summer and autumn labors. Soak the earth in this way for at least a week before the next operation, since nature itself will help to do this - you never know when the first snow will fall.

The base for such a solution can be bought at any store, stall or hypermarket that specializes in goods for gardeners. As a rule, a concentrated solution is sold in an ampoule, which will be enough for 600 sq.m.

Cooking a bacterial cocktail

These invertebrates, despite their little aesthetic and frightening appearance, are a critical link in the entire sustainable chain of our ecosystem. It is they who, passing through themselves everything that is contained in the soil and mixing the resulting mass with the earth, give the soil the necessary complex of breed fertilizers, called among the farmers by a capacious and incomprehensible word -

Is everything all right? Expect a rich harvest!

  1. Step 1. We clean the soil from organic residues in the form of cut grass, straw, leaves, tops of plants and kitchen waste. This will allow the soil to breathe and be looser.
  • Although it is possible without soil at all:
  • Generous in minerals that are available in an easily digestible form.
  1. The top layer is removed at 30-40 cm;

Useful advice! Some experienced greenhouses advise composting to get rid of old tops. This method is quite possible to use, but subject to the following conditions: you closely monitored the presence of pests in the greenhouse during the previous year and did not observe their increase; compost is truly able to get rid of pests for quite a long time - at least 3 years - you have this time, and you are ready to wait; the compost must not be used for the same crop from which it was obtained.

Conclusion

Well, and thirdly

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Tilling the soil in the greenhouse before planting: a highly desirable procedure

Obligatory spring worries - what you need to learn to love

Not later than 3-4 months before soil preparation, you must dilute the contents of the ampoule in two liters of warm water. Better if it is either melt or rainwater.

Humus

If you do not want to poison tomatoes planted in greenhouses with chemicals, then you need to take care of the quality of the soil at the stage of filling the greenhouse with soil. As a rule, the soil in greenhouses is used imported, and this is due to the fact that fertile chernozem is not always at the site of installation of the structure.

Except for fertilizers - nothing.

Step 2. We bring sawdust into the greenhouse. They absorb excess nitrogen from the manure and also slightly loosen the soil. Calculate this way: the more manure, the more sawdust.

The first, still autumn, operations

The main enemy of greenhouse tomatoes is the well-known phytophthora. Moreover, there is evidence that since 1985 new species of infecting fungus have appeared, because of which the danger of late blight has increased several times. Propagating by spores, this mushroom hides in the ground and tolerates even severe frosts well. Moreover, not having "food", it still retains its high vitality.

  • In a certain part, it consists of sand, which is necessary for the formation of the skeletal part of the plant.The first layer of hay, straw, leaves is laid;
  • Useful advice! Sulfur bombs, as a matter of fact, do not require preliminary presence of coals; it is simply enough to set fire to bombs. At the same time, it must be admitted that, although this method is extremely effective, it is unacceptable in greenhouses with metal structures - all the protection of the metal from corrosion will come to naught.
  • , With the first snow, lay a layer of 20-30 cm on the ground of the greenhouse. Already this will be an excellent protective and disinfecting factor until spring Add a large spoonful of honey to the solution.

Early spring operations

Therefore, to avoid unnecessary problems, immediately buy only high-quality soil, previously fertilized only with natural additives without the use of chemicals. And despite the fact that the price of such land will be slightly higher, in the future it will save you a lot of money, which you will not have to spend on restoring the fertile layer of the beds.

Soil disinfection

Hello Dargaya! Pachemu of the drain has lived and I do not know that it is necessary to put manure in the ground. The more manure, the more wah! - surprise!

Step 3. Add additional lime, which normalizes acidity after decay of organic residues.

Therefore, if last season you fought against late blight or another similar fungal disease, then disinfect the ground with a solution of lime and copper sulfate heated to 70 ° C:

It is rich in vermicompost, which provides all the nutrients for the most accessible form for tomatoes.

  • Then - the second layer of manure; this double pillow should be 15-20 cm thick;
  • Formalin solution
  • Among active forms that perform their work quite efficiently, but affect different types fungi and bacteria, the following are distinguished:
  • After pouring the resulting mixture into a ten-liter can or jar, tightly closing the lid, leave it in a warm and dark place for three months.

Making their way through the earth's labyrinths, earthworms absorb and let through not only dead organisms and spores, but also process everything that gets in their way into active biomass.

The earth must be dug up, it is better and more than once, fertilized with organic matter, and you can already plant it in it, do not forget the rule that there must be water in the greenhouse - buckets or a barrel

Step 4. Now we introduce fresh manure as a source of food and heat. It must be mixed with sawdust, straw and leaves, which will accelerate the decomposition and heat release.

Step 1. Take 3 g of copper sulfate and 50 g of quicklime per 1 liter of water.

Supplemented with loosening elements that maintain air-water balance (perlite, vermiculite or ash).

Active forms of land preparation in spring

The third layer is a mixture of peat and sod land, 10-15 cm thick; peat must be ventilated before use to remove toxic substances - peat is considered suitable for use when its moisture content is 50-60%.

  • - a good remedy against whitefly and its larvae, against spider mites, fungus and mold. Work with formalin must be carried out at an internal temperature not higher than 10-12 degrees and when using a 40% solution.
  • Although all the above operations will need to be carried out early in the spring, when a steady average temperature has already been established during the day above 0 degrees, warming should be stable. That is why, if the weather permits, it is recommended to carry out all operations in February.Watering of the soil with bacterial culture is carried out a month before planting.
  • Without this product of their vital activity, the fertile soil layer would have been depleted long ago, and perhaps our planet would have turned into a lifeless huge stone flying through space to its natural end. The following instruction will help to properly prepare the soil for sowing seeds by enriching it with useful substances, obtained naturally, and not in chemical laboratories. Soil preparation should be started as soon as the crop has been harvested.

Depends on the crop you are going to grow, on the method, etc.

And yet, if chemistry

Step 5. Pour a new layer of earth on top of the manure, and dust it with ash. We add mineral fertilizers.

  • Step 2. Spray the solution evenly over 1 square meter of garden area.And how all this can be achieved and what you need to do, now we will consider in more detail.
  • Oddly enough, excessive care of the land in the greenhouse will be the answer to the question of why the land in the greenhouse turns green. Too much watering in the greenhouse causes uncontrolled reproduction of moss, too much light - phytogenesis in the soil intensifies, a green carpet is planted for planting a tomato, which, after the seedlings emerge, is not cut off. Work must be carried out in a gas mask. Upon completion of watering, the temperature inside is raised to 25 degrees and the greenhouse is kept closed for a day.
  • - the use of special chemicals. This method it is quite effective, but it is strongly recommended to use it only in the autumn, immediately after the last harvest, maximizing the time until spring sowing. All operations will mainly be associated with soil disinfection. To do this, you must first remove the remaining snow. If you want to do this quickly, you can put earth, peat or even ash on top.

Add a glass of solution to 20 liters of water and pour the resulting cocktail over the entire inner area of \u200b\u200bthe greenhouse.

  • The end of August to mid-September is the best time to fertilize the greenhouse soil.Traditionally, for some reason, in greenhouses on the territory of the CIS countries, tomatoes and cucumbers are usually cultivated.

Step 6. Pour hot water and cover with plastic wrap.

Step 3. Immediately on the second day, add dolomite flour or wood ash to the bed, 100-200 g per square meter of the bed.

  • The best predecessors for greenhouse tomatoes are pumpkin and legumes, any root crops, in a word, everything that did not get sick last year with late blight or Colorado potato beetle. will stop. When a decision is made to use chemistry, then careful adherence to all application processes.
  • The final chord of all works is thorough airing. Keep in mind that formalin has the ability to absorb and persist in concrete for a long time Biological method

Further actions depend on the area of \u200b\u200bthe greenhouse. If the area is small, then often boiling water will be quite enough, which will successfully destroy all pests in the soil.

A month after this procedure, your beds will be maximally fertilized with the whole complex of elements, and at the same time, the plants will not absorb chemical additives that are harmful to human health, which are overflowing with many purchased fertilizers.

Having collected a sufficient number of earthworms (5-10 individuals will be enough for each square meter), we evenly distribute them over all the beds:

In this case, you will have almost six months to restore the content of trace elements necessary for plant growth in the soil. And by the time you drop the first seeds into the rows in March, the soil will be fully prepared to give its power to the plants.

If you do not "be smart", then

Land renewal

Step 7. A week later, we plant tomato seedlings.

But it is useless and irrational to process greenhouse beds for future tomatoes with a sulfur stick. As you know, this vegetable is most attacked by late blight, and sulfuric acid is almost useless against this scourge. Therefore, the best disinfection of such soil is copper preparations and treatment with Baikal. This tool will not only destroy pests, but also add beneficial microorganisms to it, which in turn will increase soil fertility. Just remember that any increase in soil fertility increases the number of pathogens in it.

  • In any case, it is important to prepare the greenhouse for cleaning in the fall: remove all plant residues of leaves and stems, burn all the tops. From the soil itself, it is necessary to manually remove all the remaining roots and fallen seeds, and dig up the soil under a shovel. And finally, we remove 7 cm of the top layer of the earth from the beds, where pathogenic microorganisms and fungi are most concentrated.
  • Only confidence in all your actions will give the desired result in summer and autumn. And after harvesting - back to work (also learn how to prepare the greenhouse for spring).
  • Copper sulfate
  • - in other words, the introduction of living organisms into the soil with the help of compost or manure, helping to cope with pests. This method gives very good results, but it is long lasting and not always suitable for greenhouses. In addition, in the process of compost operation, constant care of the soil is required - digging it up and removing new weeds.

conclusions

Not only the abundance of sunlight, but also the presence of various mineral elements and organic fertilizers in the earth gives the plants strength for normal growth and fruiting. Some inexperienced summer residents begin fertilizing their beds by instilling a mass of various chemicals in them, which in most cases is a gross mistake. The video in this article will help you avoid such mistakes (read also about the features of growing flowers in a greenhouse).

Digging a hole,

Initially, you need to remove the top layer of soil about 20 cm from the garden bed, digging a groove along the entire length of the plantation.

They love the soil light and loose. A universal method for the usual cultivation of these crops is mulching with organic matter (tree leaves, etc.) of the soil, followed by its autumn digging.

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Preparing the soil in a greenhouse for tomatoes in spring: a step-by-step guide

What do tomatoes grow on with pleasure?

Here is another spring version of the tomato pie:

If you are not an adherent of mineral fertilization of greenhouse soil, and do not want to apply manure or chicken before planting tomatoes (at least because of the fear of becoming infected with helminths later), then consider the option with siderates. This green manure is planted in early spring, long before you bring your first seedlings.

And here are the ideal predecessors of greenhouse beds for tomatoes:

  1. - This well-known drug shows itself perfectly against pathogens of powdery mildew, late blight, rot, scab, curliness and bacteriosis. The use of copper sulfate has a negative effect on plants, therefore it is available for use only in autumn. A concentration higher than 10% is not used. Copper sulfate is part of the Bordeaux mixture
  2. Temperature method
  3. If you are lucky with the sun, then these actions can help:
  4. It is not enough to build a greenhouse on the site, get extraordinary seedlings and place them in the soil, waiting for the harvest. The land requires constant maintenance, whether it is outdoors or in a greenhouse.
  5. Carefully put the worm in it,
  6. At its bottom, humus is poured, which has been waiting for this procedure for at least 3 years. It must be remembered that it should not contain any straw or hay, as this significantly increases the time of its decomposition in the ground.
  7. Fertilizers are applied, depending on the variety (a professional sales consultant should explain to you in detail how, how much, and when).
  8. Step 1. Put reeds and long decaying branches with the bottom layer.

Siderata quickly form a green mass and are often grown in a greenhouse only to be used as an organic fertilizer with valuable nitrogen. As a result, only 3 kg of green mass will replace 1-1.5 kg of manure! These are beans, peas, seradella, mustard, lentils, soybeans, rapeseed, phacelia, rape and broad beans.

Forerunners: not every garden bed is good

And now let's figure out whether it is worth covering the soil in the greenhouse on which you plan to plant the tomatoes for the winter with snow. Yes, usually you come across advice that it is incredibly useful for closed ground: moisture impregnation, destruction of harmful microorganisms. But just for a tomato, everything is a little different.

The video in this article will answer these questions more fully.

Special drugs

February: does a greenhouse need snow?

- or against the ground with boiling water. This method involves preliminary covering the area with a heat-resistant film, which will retain moisture and release steam.

First, the soil is watered;

Sprinkle with a small amount of earth.

Soil: ready-made or homemade?

You have to fill the ditch with humus by about half with your own hands, after which you can either fill it with soil that was thrown back during digging, or fill in new soil.

There are also websites of producers of your chosen variety and just informational websites where you can clarify the details.

Step 2. Next 3 buckets of sawdust and 200 g of urea.

You can sow siderates in front of tomatoes at the end of March, in extreme cases - in the fall, after harvesting. Two weeks before planting tomatoes, trim the grown green manure with a flat cutter and close it up to a depth of 2-3 cm. Do not remove all the roots that remain - this is an excellent food for beneficial bacteria and worms.

So, if the greenhouse land is without snow all winter, then by spring it dries up completely. It is even noticeable visually: the soil becomes dusty, as if lifeless. In fact, such soil is an excellent heat insulator, and the ground under it almost does not freeze, and in the spring it does not need to be heated for a long time and tediously. Remember now what are tomatoes most afraid of? Yes, it is cold earth, but the fact that it looks like sand is not scary - tomatoes grow beautifully in the desert places of South America.

Tomatoes are fruit plants of the nightshade family. Their name comes from the Italian pommod Хoro - "golden apple". And the Dutch were the first to develop the agricultural technology of this vegetable, in their greenhouses, boasting that they had discovered the fourth state of water. The first is gaseous, the second is liquid, the third is ice, and the fourth is a Dutch tomato. And this "handsome" has considerable requirements for the conditions and on what it is grown.

Disinfection: saving the future harvest

- a whole class of drugs developed against specific types of bacteria: "Fitolavin-300" against pathogenic bacteria and rot, "Bayleton" - against gray rot and powdery mildew, "Acrobat MC" - against downy mildew and late blight. The use of these drugs must be preceded by familiarity with the recommendations.

  • The covering material is thoroughly washed;
  • Nothing will grow by itself. Limit calculation, knowledge, labor and discipline - this is what the earth loves - these are the components of a good harvest.
  • After the entire inner area of \u200b\u200bthe greenhouse has been "planted" with invertebrates, make them light rain by watering the entire plantation from a watering can or hose. If the soil does not yet have night frosts, then watering can be quite abundant.

However, this is only the simplest preparation of the soil for the next planting, and if you want to achieve maximum results, then you need to additionally carry out a number of preparatory measures.

Siderata: we feed the beds with nitrogen

If tomatoes or cucumbers are kept, then they are lime every 4 years in the ground. If you do not know how, write in the comments, I will lay out recommendations for liming the soil.

Step 3. Sprinkle with lime.

Note that fresh and young plants are most rich in nitrogen, and they decompose faster in the soil. Just do not overdo it with the amount, otherwise the green mass will not decompose, but will turn sour. But more mature green manure plants decompose more slowly, but they enrich the soil with organic matter.

Just be sure to loosen such soil well so that it becomes breathable. You can calmly dig up at least every year, no matter how the adherents of "live farming" recommend it.

Fertilizing: focus on calcium!

Here, for example, is the most successful design of greenhouse beds for growing this crop:

This is the most aggressive way to fight harmful microorganisms, it is better to avoid it if possible, but when it is no longer possible to do this, then you have at your disposal:

The material is applied to the ground;

"Warm beds": tomatoes will be early!

If a sudden cold snap is still possible, then moisten the earth so that before dark all the water is absorbed and would not freeze the worms in it.

  • Attention! It is necessary to fill in the so-called soil disinfected from various weeds and pests so that they do not damage future plants.
  • Humus, manure, ash, If the soil is heavy, clayey, then peat, but to deoxidize the soil, then lime or dolomite flour.
  • Step 4. As a top layer, mix ash, earth and mineral fertilizers.
  • If you decide to apply some fertilizer to the beds even before planting seedlings, then you should know: the experience of a huge number of people from all over the world in growing tomatoes proves that this vegetable cannot be grown tasty and useful on mineral fertilizer alone. The fact is that mineral substances inhibit the biota in the root zone, while vitamins and other biological substances provide only symbiotic microorganisms to the roots.
  • By the way, it is easy to warm up such beds if you carry out underground heating in the greenhouse:
  • Now let's dwell on what kind of greenhouse soil is needed specifically for tomatoes:
  • Useful advice! Carrying out the correct agrarian policy can also be attributed to the care of the land. It is not worth constantly planting the same crop on the same garden bed. Crop rotation does not allow pathogens to adapt to soil and crop conditions.

Chlorine lime

  • Doors and vents are closed;
  • It can be said in another way - you like to ride, love to carry sledges. And we will add that this should be done on time and should begin in the fall.
  • After that, by the spring, the soil for a tomato in the greenhouse will be sufficiently enriched with nutrients, and most importantly, you will no longer need either strength or money.
  • The photo shows humus.
  • It all depends on what you are going to plant in the greenhouse - Early cucumbers A layer of straw, about 2 fingers thick, a layer of manure that has not rotted such a sandwich from layers 4 x prepare the holes for planting and fill them with earth. Prepared soil in the greenhouse is abundantly spilled with hot water, I cover the beds in the greenhouse with a black film, well, no, so only a lot of weed will go in a week in the holes you can plant seedlings For peppers and eggplant, ordinary soil (separate from cucumbers, the modes are different) I process and dig up everything with Nitrofoskoy

Step 5. We alternate the last three layers a couple of times.

But they also won't work on organic matter alone. Of course, they will not grow small, but the tops will be much more massive than the roots, and all small and volatile pests from the surrounding area will come running to such overfeeding. Although organics are also important for tomatoes:

Good preparation test: how does the seedling behave?

Not only for beginners, but also for experienced gardeners, the question often arises: "So prepare the soil for tomatoes yourself, or buy ready-made soil mixture?" If you decide to buy ready-made soil, then be sure to treat it with the biological solution "Fitolavin", taking 2 ml per liter of water. After all, you cannot be completely sure that the purchased land never came into contact with anything during harvesting.

Free from weed seeds.

Ideally, be sure to leave at least 20% of the entire greenhouse area for steam - let the earth rest and be nourished with vitamins for at least one season. Be sure to keep a diary of soil use.

Vasha-Teplitsa.ru

What should be the land for the greenhouse, what should be added to the ground? thanks for the answer!

What is the name of the country for Russians?

- it will be good for fighting black leg, keel, white rot gall nematode, late blight. In autumn, the concentration of chlorine can be high, in spring it is quite minimal. It is very useful to spray plants with a liquid solution in a ratio of 400 grams of lime per 10 liters of water. Often a delay in processing results in the loss of the entire already diseased crop.

Sergey Zhukov

All the cracks are caulked.

[I Am Your Legend] ™

Back in the fall, when the last harvest was harvested, and the land was prepared for winter rest, it is very important to do the following:

Amir Zhumagaliev

Council. In order to minimize the evaporation of moisture from the soil and at the same time insulate it, cover the ground with plastic wrap. If it lies like this in spring, it will perfectly preserve the moisture of the soil, and the worms will not go deep, but will fertilize the upper layer, in which the plants will be located.

The following recommendations not only answer the question of how to prepare the soil for a tomato in a greenhouse, but also help to saturate the soil with useful trace elements as much as possible. This will increase the fertility of the soil several times and, as a result, increase the yield of planted tomatoes.
Humus is needed. And more. All. The rest is heat, light and watering with warm (if possible water).
Well that's all! Dig holes under the tomatoes so deep that the seedlings are covered with soil up to the cotyledonous leaves. If it has grown a little, plant it not vertically, but with a 45-50 ° slope, and an additional root system will develop from the stem. And how much was correct preparation, now the planted seedlings will tell.
That is why the supply of fertilizer to the beds for tomatoes must be approached in a comprehensive manner. So, many experienced gardeners add 3-7 g of special fertilizer for tomatoes, in which phosphorus and potassium predominate, into the hole when planting, exactly 5 cm from the seedling trunk. Of the drugs, Kemira, Buiskiye OMU or Fertika have recommended themselves.
A good soil for greenhouse tomatoes is obtained from a mixture of turf and humus soils, taken in equal proportions and loosened with sawdust. In addition, you can purchase ready-made soil "Tomato and Pepper", in which all the necessary substances and elements are more accurately calculated. It is sold in 4 kg polyethylene bags, and you need to make 3 kg per 1 m2, separately in each hole. Here we are talking about the traditional version. Also use the popular coconut medium, which is especially good for tomato seedlings.
Cleared of larvae of pests and possible pathogens.

Elena Mango

Every year last year's fallow goes to work, and new areas take its "place" in the care of the soil. This approach is especially important if there is a need to resolve the issue of how to prepare the land in the greenhouse for tomatoes.

Alexander Belyaev

Carbation

May wind

In a week, you get a greenhouse that is quite suitable for further use. But, unfortunately, in the middle lane, such a technique is possible only in summer, when there is no longer a question of tillage.

The greenhouse can be called the best home for tomato seedlings without exaggeration. The weather is capricious and unpredictable, and all gardeners want to get a harvest of their own tomatoes.

You can make a greenhouse for growing seedlings with your own hands from the "riches" that are in any summer cottage, or you can order a ready-made one, if funds allow. But having built a greenhouse on the site, you will never regret the time and money spent.

Ground in a greenhouse for a tomato

Tomatoes are very thermophilic plants, and, despite the abundance of varieties adapted for cultivation in our climate, heat, which is sometimes sorely lacking, still remains a decisive factor in obtaining a harvest. However, in addition to heat, tomatoes for growing in greenhouses need prepared soil. And they begin to cook it long before the seedlings are planted.

First of all, you need to think about how to make the greenhouse soil the most optimal for the growth of tomato seedlings. It should be fertile, decontaminated and warm.

You can disinfect the soil with fungicides, which are commercially available in large quantities. But the preliminary sowing of siderates will help to improve fertility. A number of crops that enrich the soil with nitrogen and improve its structure are referred to siderates. These are mustard, buckwheat, radish, wheat, peas, clover ...

Greenhouse crops are sown in greenhouse soil in the fall immediately after harvesting, they grow until the flowering period, and then the land is dug up together with greenhouse crops. Thus, it is possible to significantly improve the greenhouse soil, and the crop rotation is observed. To increase fertility, you can also use manure, burying it in the ground in the fall, but then you have to work hard, pulling out weeds.

What kind of land is needed in a greenhouse for a tomato

Most important characteristics soil for growing tomatoes is looseness and water permeability. The composition of the soil, one way or another, will depend on what kind of soil is in your area. If you have peat soil, then the following mixture will be the optimal soil for the greenhouse: 60% peat, 20% sand and 20% compost. On light loam, the amount of koppost and humus should be increased to 50%. On dense loam, the amount of sand is increased, and on sandy soils, clay-turf soil is also added.

How to prepare the ground in a greenhouse for tomatoes

Preparation of greenhouse soil for planting seedlings in a greenhouse usually begins in the fall. First, all the soil from the greenhouses is removed, the bottom is covered with sawdust, straw, needles or small twigs. The thickness of this layer should be at least 5 cm.Then a 10-centimeter layer of manure is laid on this layer, and the greenhouse soil is returned from above, into which 3 kg of ash, 0.8 kg of ammonium nitrate and 3 kg of superphosphate are added per 1 cubic meter of soil. As a result, you get the so-called warm beds. Two weeks before planting seedlings, you need to loosen the greenhouse soil, remove weeds and additionally add half a bucket of humus and a glass of wood ash to the soil for each square meter of surface.

Preparing the ground for tomatoes in the greenhouse

The seedling beds are prepared a week before planting. The beds should be a mound 30-40 cm high and 60-80 cm wide. Seedlings are planted in one row for each bed. The distance between the beds is about 60 cm. If the greenhouse is small, you can make beds with boards from the boards and plant seedlings on them in two rows. 5-6 days before planting, the soil can be treated with biological means of protecting vegetables - trichodermin, phytosporin, baikal-em and other similar preparations.

To warm up the soil, check the greenhouse for cracks, and then cover it with an additional layer of film. After loosening, the greenhouse soil is covered with a black film that attracts the sun's rays to obtain the optimal temperature for planting.

Greenhouse soil preparation plays important role in obtaining a rich harvest. How and when should you prepare the soil for your greenhouse? How to get rid of pests? Warming up the greenhouse with manure in early spring, procedure. What manure or others and at what time is it better to use? So, how to properly prepare the soil in a greenhouse or greenhouse, we read in the article.
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Greenhouse soil preparation

Autumn work, before frost

The soil in the greenhouse also needs to be prepared for the onset of frost. It is necessary to remove the soil from the beds from the greenhouse and scatter them with a layer of 60-80 centimeters. Then humus is introduced into the greenhouse with a layer of 15-20 centimeters. If the soil is not fertile, fertilizers are added to it, and then they are also applied to the greenhouse. At the end, you can spread mulch on the beds.

After the greenhouse has survived the frosts, by the time the plants dive, it will have fertile and soft soil ready for planting.

How to get rid of a bear. Greenhouse disinfection

Unfortunately, it is rare to find humus without a bear, so it is better to immediately get rid of this pest by spreading the pickled seeds in the greenhouse a couple of days before diving.

If the same crops are grown in the greenhouse, for example tomatoes, most likely, various pests of these particular vegetables have already appeared in the soil. Therefore, before planting seedlings, it is worth spilling the soil with a hot (about 60 ° C) solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 1 gram per 10 liters of water.

It is necessary to disinfect not only the soil, but also the greenhouse itself. To do this, all wooden structures are washed copper sulfate, which destroys fungi, lichens and moss, and after a week is coated with bleach.

To obtain a treatment agent, 400 grams of bleach is infused in 12 liters of water for 2-4 hours. Then the liquid is drained, and the precipitate is used for coating. If, in the summer, greenhouse plants have suffered any disease (for example, tomatoes have had brown spot), greenhouse structures and glass should be additionally sprayed with foundation or oxychom.

Warming up the greenhouse in early spring, preparing the soil

If the winter was severe, with fierce frosts, but you plan to use the greenhouse for planting in early spring, it is necessary to start the process of its self-heating. To do this, after the snow melts, the earth is plentifully spilled with hot water. And after a few days you can start planting!

But you can get the first greens in early spring or plant seedlings of cold-resistant crops in a greenhouse not only with hot water. The soil can be warmed up in the old-fashioned way - with the help of biofuel or organic matter. This method can be used by those summer residents who have the opportunity to acquire fresh manure in early spring. The volume of manure applied should be 1/4 of the volume of the entire greenhouse soil. For example, a standard plot with two greenhouses and four greenhouses will require about half of the KAMAZ manure.

Horse manure generates an optimal amount of heat in cold climates. It also warms up the fastest. Pig manure, as well as rabbit and sheep manure is not suitable for heating greenhouses - it is too hot for greenhouse plants.

How to prepare warming soil

So, the preparation of the warming soil will require the following steps.

  1. In autumn, organic residues are introduced into the greenhouse. These are straw, grass cuttings, tops of plants, leaves and kitchen waste. This is necessary in order for the soil to be looser, and for the spring burning of manure.
  2. In autumn and spring, sawdust must be brought into the greenhouse. Thanks to them, the soil becomes loose, and nitrogen is also absorbed from fresh manure. The same amount of sawdust is needed as manure was introduced into the greenhouse - the more manure, the more sawdust.
  3. Lime is also added in the fall to normalize acidity, since organic residues in the process of decay contribute to soil oxidation.
  4. In the spring, fresh manure is introduced into the greenhouse. This is the main source of heat and the supplier of nutrients for future plants. If you do not add plant residues, the manure will not heat very much. Therefore, it should be mixed with straw, sawdust and leaves.
  5. In the spring, soil is poured into the greenhouse.
  6. Ash is poured over the ground.
  7. Mineral fertilizers are also scattered over the ground.

In order for all of the above components to perform their warming function, it is necessary to prepare a “pie” from them. The bottom layer is laid with tops and grass, on top of them - straw and leaves, then lime and sawdust. These components must be introduced into the greenhouse in the fall. In the spring, manure crumbles from above and sawdust falls on it. Mix the components with a pitchfork. Thanks to mixing, organic matter begins to re-heat in the future. Then the whole composition is spilled abundantly with hot water. This speeds up the rewarming process.

After that, all the components are covered with a layer of earth (about 25 centimeters), sprinkled with ash (1 glass per one square meter), and complex mineral fertilizers, for example, "Nitrofoska", are applied, and the whole bed is loosened. Then another spill of hot water follows - and the soil is covered with a film. In a week, the ground will be warm enough to start planting.

What can be used instead of manure

If it was not possible to find fresh manure in early spring, you can try to do without it.

fertilizing the soil in the greenhouse

In this case, use:

  • spruce branches,
  • thin branches,
  • leaves from bath brooms,
  • hay,
  • chopped reed,
  • siderates - in detail,
  • seaweed,
  • sawdust,
  • bark,
  • pond and river silt,
  • urea,
  • land,
  • lime,
  • ash,
  • mineral fertilizers.

All components are added in a specific sequence:

  • the lower layer is made up of large and long decaying branches, brooms, spruce branches, reeds;
  • then the following components are alternated and laid in thin layers;
  • urea and sawdust are introduced together (200 grams of urea for 3 buckets of sawdust);
  • followed by lime, the volume of which depends on the amount of leaves and sawdust;
  • sludge is used only for acidic soil;
  • the top layer consists of earth, ash and mineral fertilizers.

All layers, with the exception of ash, earth and mineral fertilizers, are applied in the fall, and these components - in the spring.

The warming soil should not be prepared too early, otherwise it will not heat up to the desired temperature.

Part of the biofuel can be stored next to the greenhouse for freezing for the winter. In order to warm all the components in the spring, it will be necessary to cover them with a double film and lay them out in the greenhouse or in the greenhouse as they thaw.

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Growing plants in greenhouses and hotbeds is impossible without careful soil cultivation. In this article, we will tell you which aspects you need to pay attention to first, as well as how to prepare the soil in the greenhouse for growing various crops.

Soil selection basics

Actual problems when using natural soil

The selection of soil for closed ground is a rather difficult task.

This is due to the fact that a small volume of soil mass leads to its rapid depletion:

  • Firstly, at the end of the harvest, we remove all plant residues, which means that the organic matter necessary to restore fertility does not enter the soil.
  • Secondly, the beds are more actively exploited, since the density of plantings in the greenhouse is much higher than in the open air.
  • Also, do not forget about the abundant feeding: after several years, the remnants of ballast substances that make up the fertilizers accumulate on the beds.

All this leads to the fact that many greenhouse owners prefer to completely replace the soil once a year.

However, at the same time, we are faced with such questions:

  • Where to get tons of soil every year?
  • Where to take out the waste?
  • How to organize the replacement process?

In order not to solve such problems, it is worth initially taking care of maintaining fertility and maintaining the physical and chemical characteristics of the greenhouse soil.

Basic requirements for soil in a greenhouse

Let's formulate the basic requirements for :

  • The soil should be fertile and loose.
  • It should contain a sufficient amount of humus (the main component of soil organic matter responsible for fertility).
  • Also, the requirements include the optimal acidity of the substrate (Ph value), which must correspond to the grown culture.

Natural technologies for restoring fertility

Preparing the soil for a greenhouse most often includes enriching it with micronutrients. To date, there is no single scheme for such processing, since the list of introduced substances depends on what kind of crop we are growing and on what kind of processing the beds were subjected to in the current year.

The modern market offers us a wide range of mineral and organic fertilizers. However, as practice shows, in a home greenhouse, you can do with exclusively natural feeding.

It may include the following substances:

  • Algae flour (contains trace elements and lime).
  • Meat or bone meal (phosphorus, nitrate, potassium).
  • Lime flour.
  • Wood waste (shavings, sawdust, leaves)
  • Down or feathers (contain potassium nitrate)

Naturally, one should not forget about the "classic" fertility restorers - manure, chicken droppings and compost.

Note! In addition to organic nature, the advantages of such natural fertilizers include their extremely low price.

Soil preparation in a greenhouse most often involves layering:

  1. Disinfected soil mixture with the addition of organic substances.
  2. Humus age 3-4 years (without hay and straw).
  3. A layer of freshly cut grass (before flowering, so that weeds do not germinate).

This instruction should be followed immediately after the end of the decontamination measures, i.e. in the fall after harvest. Thus, we will be able to restore the fertility of the beds, and in the spring we will plant seedlings on productive soil.

Greenhouse soil mixtures

Main types

Usually, greenhouses do not use solid soil taken from a field or meadow, but a special mixture of several components.

Each gardener has its own unique recipe, but we will describe several fairly universal options in this section.

Note! The proportions given here are for guidance only.

  • Peat land - soil rich in humus, which is collected from swamps. When harvesting, peat layers should be alternated with manure and lime. Low-lying peat is introduced into the soil depending on its properties: light soils require an addition of 20-25 kg per square meter, heavier ones - up to 15 kg.

  • Compost soil - food waste and products rotted over several years, the life of the economy. Compost is quite simple to prepare: it is enough to store all waste in a separate heap or box. The high organic content makes the compost soil very suitable for growing vegetables and herbs.

  • Leafy or woody ground They are also made by introducing plant material into the soil, but their productivity is slightly lower than that of peat or compost substrates. Such soil can be added up to 30% of the total soil volume.

Substrates for different crops

In the video in this article - a visual overview of this topic, look!

At present, a greenhouse has been established and is operating at almost every summer cottage. In the southern regions, it is used for growing seedlings of crops with a long growing season exceeding 5-6 months (tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplants, etc.), forcing early green or spicy-flavoring crops and early vegetables (salads, onions on a feather, dill , parsley and others). In cold regions, a greenhouse is an indispensable attribute of a summer residence. It is used for growing vegetables that require soil temperature and environment, level of illumination and longitude of daylight hours. A large role in the formation of the yield of greenhouse crops belongs to greenhouse soils and their correct preparation.

Greenhouse soil very quickly loses its positive traits... It sharply reduces fertility, becomes infected, acidifies, loses its physical structure, becomes heavy, dense, clay-like.

The vast majority of vegetable crops require a soil that is water- and air-permeable, structural (not dusty), with a high content of organic matter and basic nutrients. The easiest way out, but quite expensive, is to buy ready-made, the cost of which not every family can afford. The second option remains - to prepare the soil for the greenhouse with your own hands.

The main requirement is that the soil must be light. This quality will provide the soil with sod or leafy soil. Humus serves as a good baking powder, which is additionally a supplier of organic matter and a structuring basis for the physical condition of the soil. River sand will prevent the main soil from sliding off, especially if it is black soil.

The optimal composition of the greenhouse soil will be a mixture of the following components:

  • garden land, 1 part,
  • turf land, 2 parts,
  • humus 2 parts,
  • 1 part peat (if any),
  • 1 part sand.

To the listed components, you can add 1 part of mature compost (if available). Soil components are laid in 10-15 cm layers, sprinkling each with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers at a rate of 20 g / sq. m each. The prepared components are thoroughly mixed and brought into the greenhouse. They fill the beds and dig up.

You can use simpler mixtures for stuffing greenhouses, consisting of leaf earth, turf and sand (2: 2: 1 or 1: 1: 1), added to the garden soil. These mixtures are neutral in acidity and are suitable for the vast majority of vegetable crops. After filling, it is necessary to fertilize such soils with humus, compost, mineral fertilizers, and dig up.

Greenhouse soil rehabilitation works

General measures for the improvement of greenhouse soil are carried out in several ways.

  • Once every 2-3-4 years, replace the top layer of depleted soil (10 -20 cm) with a new one. The new soil is formed from a mixture of forest and field soil with the addition of humus, compost, mineral phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or nitrophoska at a dose of 25-30 g / sq. m area. If it is not possible to bring in the soil, then they use the local one of the part of the garden where they did not grow vegetables and did not apply herbicides. The old soil is taken to a pre-prepared place, where it is disinfected and enriched with fertilizers, and then used as open ground.

  • The soil is not replaced, but is decontaminated on site in the greenhouse and enriched with nutrients. After harvesting, the top layer of the soil is cleaned from plant residues and various debris. Along the way, they destroy some of the soil pests.

How to disinfect soil in a greenhouse

The soil in the greenhouse can be disinfected in one of three common ways:

  • thermal (drying in the sun or scalding with hot water),
  • chemical (treatment with copper sulphate, potassium permanganate or chemicals from approved for use),
  • biological (introduction of biological products that are harmless to beneficial soil microflora and human and animal health).

Heat treatment

During heat treatment, the greenhouse cover is removed and the soil is left in the sun. In 1-2 weeks it is dried by the sun, which causes the death of numerous pathogens. The disadvantage of this method is that when the soil warms up and dries up, a significant part of the useful microflora also perishes.

Multi-component primer

In cold and rainy autumn, the greenhouse soil can be disinfected by sprinkling with hot water. You need to spill not boiling water, but hot water, so as not to cause a large death of beneficial microflora.

Chemical treatment

The most acceptable way is treatment with copper sulfate. Dissolve 25-30 g of the drug in 10 l of water and process the topsoil from a watering can with a nozzle. After a week, the soil is dug onto a shovel bayonet. This method is not recommended for annual use, since copper accumulates in the soil, which inhibits the plants.

In small greenhouses, the soil is disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate. Prepare a 2% solution and spill the soil. Leave until ripe, dig in. It is not recommended to use ready-made chemicals in home greenhouses. Disinfection of greenhouse soil is best done with biological agents.

Biological method

The biological method consists in enriching the soil with EM microflora (Effective Microorganisms). Reproducing rapidly in a humid warm environment, they destroy pathogenic microflora and at the same time enrich the soil with available mineral salts, processing soil organic matter (humus, compost, sawdust and other organic residues). Biological disinfection of soil in the greenhouse can be carried out in the autumn and spring preparation of the greenhouse.

When applying biological products in autumn for the winter, it is advisable to cover the soil with a layer of snow. It will not allow the soil to freeze and keep more beneficial microorganisms alive. In spring application, the soil is first warmed by watering with hot water. Raise the soil temperature to +12 .. + 14 ° С. Working solution Baikal EM-1 or dry preparation "Emochki-Bokashi" is added to the thawed soil. The biological product is embedded in the topsoil. After 2 weeks, the greenhouse can be used for sowing or planting vegetables. During the growing season, a high background of healthy soil is supported by the introduction of biological products Planriz, Aktofit, Phytosporin, Hamair and others. Dilution rates and methods of application are given in the recommendations for use.

Biologicals introduction video

Preparing the soil in the greenhouse for tomatoes

Tomatoes are one of the most common crops grown in greenhouses in the cold regions of Russia. It is more practical to prepare a special mixture for tomatoes on your own or buy ready-made soil. When self-preparing the soil for a tomato in a greenhouse, work begins in the fall. In regions with peat bogs, it is used as the main filler. Only high-moor peat is suitable for preparing the mixture, low-lying peat is characterized by high acidity. And for tomatoes, only soil with neutral acidity pH \u003d 6.5-7.0 is suitable.

Replacing the top layer

The top 10-15 cm layer of the used soil is removed and replaced with a new one prepared from a mixture of peat, sand, compost in a ratio of 6: 2: 2. The resulting mixture is mixed with local soil (1: 1) and humus and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added. To prevent the substrate from becoming acidified, 1 cu. m of the mixture, add 3 kg of lime and mix everything thoroughly.

Preparation without replacing soil

If it is not possible to replace the soil, it is thoroughly cleaned of any debris, humus and a phosphorus-potassium mixture of fertilizers are introduced. Disinfected by hot steaming or treated with copper sulfate, potassium permanganate. Dig it up and leave until spring.

Recently, many summer residents have begun to use green manure to enrich greenhouse soil with nutrients. After complete preparation of the soil, mustard, rye, phacelia and other crops are sown. The sprouted greenery can be cut down and left or completely dug up the green manure in the spring.

White mustard - green fertilizer

In the spring, you need to warm up the substrate to +12 .. + 14 ° C so that tomatoes do not start to hurt in cold soil. You can put a layer of semi-rotted manure under the substrate with hot water or in the fall. Warming it up will raise the ground temperature faster. When the temperature in the soil rises to the above parameters, for faster decay, treat the soil with a biological product trichodermin, phytosporin, "Baikal EM-1" or others. The waiting period is 6-10 days. During this period, beneficial microorganisms will process part of the organic matter and prepare the soil for planting seedlings or direct sowing of seeds into the prepared soil.

 

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