Greenhouse controller with Arduino. Automatic greenhouse with ventilation and watering Automatic greenhouse arduino

GyverControl- a universal timer controller for a greenhouse and other places where automation is needed according to a timer or microclimate indicators / other sensors, has 10 separately configurable control channels, is assembled from inexpensive Chinese components and replaces several “store” controllers for various purposes: irrigation control, lighting control, opening doors and more. It can be used both for greenhouses/beds, and for aquariums, terrariums, incubators and other automatic systems. Be sure to read the documentation on the controller (links above), it describes in detail about all the possibilities. Here is just a short list!

This project is completely open, that is, any of you can make a controller for the greenhouse with your own hands, GyverControl combines a controller for irrigation, lighting, ventilation and much more. The most important thing is that you can make yourself such a smart greenhouse controller at cost, i.e. at the retail price of Chinese components. And it's very cheap.

Iron:

ArduinoNano(ATmega 328p) as main system controller
7 channels with 5V logic output, to which you can connect a conventional relay, solid state relay, power switches (transistors, transistor-based modules)
2 channels servos, conventional model servos of large and small sizes are connected
1 channel control of a linear electric drive with limit switches for limiting movement and with timeout operation
Air temperature sensor ( BME280)
Humidity sensor ( BME280)
4 analog sensors(soil moisture or others)
Reference (real) time module RTCDS3231 self-powered
Big LCD display(LCD 2004, 20 columns, 4 rows)
Government - encoder
Support for DHT11/DHT22 humidity sensors, DS18b20 temperature sensors and thermistors

Software chips:

Storing all settings in non-volatile memory ( not reset on reboot)
Soil moisture sensors (all analogue sensors) are not energized, they are energized only at the time of the survey., which allows you to extend the life of even the cheapest soil moisture sensors (voltage is applied 50 ms before the poll and turns off 50 ms after).
Optimized data output to the display
Each of the 10 channels (7 relays, 2 servos and 1 drive) has individual settings and can work on a timer or on sensors
4-6 operating modes per channel: three different timers and conditional operation from sensors, PID and dawn modes
Servo works with my library ServoSmooth, this ensures their smooth movement: smooth acceleration and deceleration with limitation top speed, as well as the absence of jerks and unplanned movements at system startup
The linear drive has limit switches,external buttons for management and speed setting movement. PWM driver frequency - 31 kHz, i.e. does not squeak
Debug Screen, where all current information about the state of hardware and sensors is displayed
Graphs temperature and humidity and readings from analog sensors for the last 24 hours
Service menu, allowing you to manually control each piece of iron

Application as greenhouse/box controller:

Intermittent watering (relay)
- Scheme with individual pumps / valves
- Scheme with one pump and several valves
Watering based on readings from soil moisture sensors
Lighting control (relay) with reference to the time of day
Ventilation (drive opens the window/servo opens the damper) by temperature or humidity sensor
Humidification (activation of the humidifier) by air humidity sensor
Heating (turning on the heater) by temperature sensor
Performing servo actions (pressing buttons on devices, turning handles, turning shutters, moving objects) according to a sensor or timer

Application as aquarium controller:

Dawn mode for LED strips (via MOSFET) and incandescent lamps (servo drive)
PID controller for maintaining water temperature
Servos (2 pcs) for food dumping
The remaining channels can be used by timers to start filters / aerators / lights

Other uses:

The system supports 4 analog sensors, these do not have to be soil moisture sensors, the Chinese have a lot of other "module sensors" that similar connected to the diagram:
- Light sensor: "smart" lighting system, backup lighting
- Thermistor(up to 80 degrees): object heating control
- sound sensor: closing the window when there is a lot of noise from outside (why not? =))
- IR sensor(fire sensor) - different options for signaling, or even extinguishing (turn on the pump with water, open the servo tap)
- Rain sensor: closing windows, signaling, turning on pumps for pumping out
- Water level sensor/ water presence sensor: automatic filling of the tank, automatic pumping of water from the tank / basement by a pump, shutting off water lines in case of leakage, leakage alarm
- Gas analyzers in the range: a signaling device or even airing (open the window) by the level of carbon monoxide and other industrial gases
- Optic obstacle sensor: fantasy is needed here
- Potentiometer: as an additional system control body
The servo is a fairly versatile thing, it can open / close the shutters, it can press the buttons of other devices, rotate the adjustment knobs of other devices, with an attached connecting rod it gets the ability to linearly move objects / sliders of other devices. Servos are available in different sizes, from micro (2 kg/cm) and medium (13 kg/cm) to very powerful (50 kg/cm)
The relay can close the power contacts and control any devices, the relay can also turn on the power supply (for example, an LED strip). The relay can be placed in parallel with the wires to the button of another device, and it will turn it on or off.
Version 1.4 and above allows you to maintain the temperature using a PID controller, for
terrariums / incubators / any temperature maintenance:
- Send a PWM signal to a field effect transistor that controls heating
- Turn the servo knob of the network dimmer
Version 1.4 and above has a Dawn mode that allows you to use the controller to
aquarium / terrarium and other "animal farms"

The main governing body is encoder, the handle of which can rotate and press(she is a button). When the system starts, we get to the channel 0 setting. By rotating the encoder knob, you can move the selection cursor (arrow) through the menu items. To change the value of the selected item, you need to press the encoder knob and turn it while holding it pressed. You can also click on the button, the cursor will change from an arrow to a checkmark > , and by rotating you can change the selected value. Clicking again will return an arrow with which you can select another menu item. Hold down turn while channel name selected - change channel to tune. We scroll to the right and we will have 7 relay channels, two servos and a linear drive in order.
To go to the mode setting, you need hover over it and click the button without turning. A window for setting the mode will open, which can be exited by clicking on the inscription BACK (back). By holding and rotating the knob on the selected mode name, you can change the mode, there are 4 in total.
At the root of the menu(channel selection) scrolling to the left of channel 0 will be the debug screen ( DEBUG) and service mode ( SERVICE). The debug screen shows all current provisions relays, actuators and readings from sensors. Turning the crank on the debug screen sequentially scroll through daily charts readings from sensors: air temperature, humidity and readings from analog sensors. Divisions on the graph have a step 1.6 hours. On the service screen, you can control any channel in manual mode; when the service screen is active, the automation does not work, the system is completely in manual mode. By turning the knob, you can select the desired channel, servo position or current time setting, and change it by holding the turn.
If turn on the system with the handle clamped encoder, will happen full reset channels and modes.

Channel modes

Timer– simple periodic timer: periods are set PAUSES and time WORKS in HH:MM:SS format. With the PAUSE period, the selected action is performed and performed during the OPERATION period. For example, PAUSE costs 1 hour, WORK costs 10 seconds. Every hour there will be an action for 10 seconds, that is, if a relay channel is selected, the relay will turn on and off after 10 seconds, then turn on again after an hour and turn off after 10 seconds, and so on. How the channel behaves in the OPERATION section is set in the DIRECTION parameter, that is, it can be on off And off/on(relay), right left And left right(servo) and open close And close/open(linear drive). This mode is not tied to real time, rebooting the system resets the current timer. Attention! WORK should not be longer than PAUSE!
- Min. value: 1 second
- Max. value: 999 hours
- Real time tethering: no

TimerRTC- a periodic timer, unlike the previous one, has a link to real time, has a setting PERIOD inclusion and duration WORKS(in seconds) to be performed, and START– the initial hour from which the countdown of the period begins ( for periods longer than 2 hours). For example, period 15 minutes, work 10 seconds: every 15 minutes, an action will be performed for 10 seconds. Real time binding works as follows: the action will be performed with the selected period from the beginning of the hour, that is, if 15 minutes is selected, then the action will be at 0, 15, 30 and 45 minutes everyone hours. If the selected PERIOD is more than an hour (from two or more), then you can select the START hour from which the countdown will start. All periods are multiples of 24 hours, so work starts at the same hours every day! Example: PERIOD 8 hours, start hour 0. The action will be executed at 0000, 0800 and 1600 every day. If you set the start hour (START) to 3 o'clock, then the action will be performed at 3, 11 and 19 o'clock every day. When the power is reset, the next action will be performed in the near time of the "alarm clock". Attention! WORK should not be longer than PERIOD!
- Selectable periods: every 1, 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 60 minutes and 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, 24 hours
- Application: irrigation in hydroponic systems, ventilation without sensor

Period	Once a day	When it works
1 minute	1440	Every minute
3 min	480	0, 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54, 57 min. every hour
5 minutes	288	0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55 min. every hour
10 min	144	0, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 min. every hour
15 minutes	96	0, 15, 30, 45 min. every hour
30 minutes	48	0.30 min. every hour
1 hour	24	Every hour
2 hours	12	0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 hours of each day (+ start hour shift)
3 hours	8	0, 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21 hours of each day (+ start hour shift)
4 hours	6	0, 4, 8, 12, 16, 20 hours of each day (+ shift by starting hour)
6 o'clock	4	0, 6, 12, 18 hours every day (+ start hour shift)
8 ocloc'k	3	0, 8, 16 hours every day (+ shift by starting hour)
12 hours	2	0, 12 hours every day (+ shift by starting hour)
24 hours	1	0 hours every day (+ offset by start hour)

week(former Day) - a simple timer for one action with real-time reference, has a setting On(time in HH:MM:SS format) – the time from which the action is active, and Off(time in HH:MM:SS format) – time from which the action is not active. There are also 7 "cells" - days of the week days, from Monday to Sunday. When reloading, the action will return to the correct position according to the current time. Example: the timer is set to 6 and 20 hours (Start and Stop). The action corresponding to the current channel and the Direction parameter will be active from 6 am to 8 pm, and inactive from 8 pm to 6 am the next day. During a sudden reboot, the system will perform the action as it should be at this time interval, that is, from the previous example, if a sudden reboot occurs between 6 and 20 hours, the system will activate the action on the channel at startup. Attention! On must be less than Off!
The mode also has a setting Global, which forces any other mode to work "on schedule" Week. What it gives: for example, you can set up watering on Tuesday and Friday from 17 to 18 pm (from the barrel), check the global box and set the Sensor mode for watering. How it will work: the system will water this canal according to the Sensor mode, but it will only do it according to the schedule (Tuesday and Friday 17-18).
- Day of the week selection
- Time selection: 0-23 hours, multiple of 1 hour
- Real time tethering: yes
- Application: ideal for lighting and occasional watering

Sensor– action based on the sensor. With polling period PERIOD the selected sensor called SENSOR and when the threshold value is exceeded THRESHOLD an action is performed according to the selected channel (relay/servo/drive). The polling PERIOD is specified in seconds or minutes (as you increase). The sensor is selected from the list: T.VZD.- air temperature, V.VZD. SENS_1 on SENS_4. The threshold value is set from 0 to 1023 in steps of 1 up to 50 and in steps of 10 starting from 50 (soil moisture sensors have a value range of 0-1023). For example, an air temperature sensor is selected, the polling period is 1 hour and the threshold value is 25. Every hour the system checks the temperature, if it exceeds 25 degrees, the action corresponding to the channel will be performed (turn on the relay, open the window). An hour later, the check will be made again.
- Applications: opening/closing flaps based on temperature/humidity (actuator), watering based on soil moisture, fan/humidifier control (relay) or dampers (servo) based on temperature/humidity.

PID(for channels 3, 4 and servo) – proportional-integral-derivative controller, allows maintaining the controlled value with high accuracy (heater-temperature, damper-temperature, fan-temperature, fan-humidity, and so on). The mode is available for channels 3 and 4 (marked with an asterisk), as well as both servo channels in servo mode. Has odds settings P, I, D(D will probably not be useful to you in real work, but it is still there). Choose Sens– input signal source – one of the sensors, as in the Sensor mode ( Airt.- air temperature, Air h.– air humidity and 4 analog sensors (soil moisture) with SENS_1 on SENS_4). Setting set indicates to what value of the reading from the selected sensor the regulator will try to bring the system. Setting
T sets the iteration period of the calculation, for slow processes it makes sense to set more (read in a separate chapter "Tuning the PID controller"). Settings min And max are responsible for the minimum and maximum control signal from this channel, for channels 3 and 4 it is a PWM signal, the operating range is 0-255. For servo channels, this is the angle, 0-180 degrees.
Application : maintenance of a given value (temperature, humidity) in a non-relay way, i.e. smoothly and without sharp inclusions. The PWM signal can drive the transistor that is responsible for the heater. The servo can turn dampers (ventilation) or dimmer knobs to control network heaters, fans and other equipment.

dawn(for channels 3, 4 and servos) - "dawn" mode for controlling lighting with a smooth dawn and sunset. The mode is available for channels 3 and 4 (marked with an asterisk), as well as both servo channels in servo mode. Turns on smoothly start for Dur minutes, then turns off at the hour stop during Dur minutes. Turns on up to the maximum value specified in max, and turns off until min. On channels 3 and 4, this value sets the duty cycle of the PWM signal, the operating range is 0 - 255. You can control a field-effect transistor, for example, an LED strip. On servo channels, the operating range is 0 - 180, degrees of rotation of the servo shaft. It can control the mains dimmer knob, for incandescent or dimmable LED lamps.
Application: organization of lighting conditions close to real, for aquariums, terrariums, chicken coops, etc.

Relay channel settings

Direction– how the relay behaves when activated by a timer/sensor. ON OFF or OFF-ON
TYPE– relay operation logic
- Relay– the relay channel behaves like a normal relay, can be used to control any DC or alternating current(control network devices): watering with individual pumps, watering with individual valves from a pressurized water source, controlling humidifiers, heaters, fans, lighting devices and everything else like that. Does not depend on other channels.
- Valve- type of relay channel for a system where there is a common pump / valve from a water source and several individual valves for watering different areas. A relay channel configured as a valve simultaneously with its activation (by timer/sensor) activates another channel/channels configured as general.
- General- type of relay channel for a system where there is a common pump / valve from a water source and several individual valves for watering different areas. A relay channel configured as common has no mode settings. Instead, he activated by itself simultaneously with any other channel configured as valve. Automatically deactivates itself when there are no inactive valve channels.

Servo channel settings

Direction– how the servo behaves when activated by a timer/sensor. turn in direction MIN-MAX angle or vice versa MAX-MIN injection
limits– servo rotation angles from 0 to 180 degrees in steps of 10
Additionally: in the sketch in the settings section there is a setting for the maximum speed of the servos (SERVO1_SPEED and SERVO2_SPEED) and their acceleration for acceleration and deceleration (SERVO1_ACC and SERVO2_ACC). I did not add them to the settings of the service menu and channels, because. they are not needed very often.

Drive channel settings

Direction– how the drive behaves when activated by a timer/sensor, OPEN CLOSE or CLOSE-OPEN
Time-out- the time that the signal will be given to the movement of the drive. The limit switch (if any) will interrupt the movement of the drive

Schematic diagram and installation example in

greenhouse thermostat on the microcontroller ATmega8.

One way to heat greenhouses is to use electricity. With good and smart automation, you can ensure a high efficiency of the heating system, as well as ease of maintenance and automation in maintaining the set temperature. The efficiency of the greenhouse can be significantly increased by heating the soil and maintaining the air temperature. When developing this device, a home-made electric boiler of 5 square meters was used. Two heating elements 2 + 3 sq. It is possible to use one heating element at a time, now it is warm outside, so one heating element copes well with the task. Heats a greenhouse 11 by 5 meters, height in the center - 3 m, double film, the greenhouse is deepened into the ground by one meter. The control unit monitors five points and manages three circuits. Two - a warm bed, room temperature. In the device menu, you can set your own temperature and hysteresis for each circuit. Separately for each circuit, day and night temperatures are set.

The thermostat also provides control of the coolant temperature for emergency shutdown of the boiler in case of overheating, as well as the ability to connect a temperature sensor to monitor an additional parameter (for example, outdoor temperature). The transition time from day to night mode and vice versa is set in the menu and is common to all circuits. The operation of the pump is controlled by the automation unit. If the temperature has reached the set parameters and the boiler has turned off, the pump will still work for the set time and turn off. The pump is applied one general, on warm beds and on the room. Warm beds and air temperature are controlled by 12 volt solenoid valves. Schematic diagram of the thermostat:

It looks like a photo of the soldered board from the side of the tracks:

1.Instruction for the operation of automation

The thermostat microcontroller works with 5 DS18B20 sensors. The sensors are connected to one bus. It may be necessary to reduce R1. MK distinguishes sensors by their serial number. When manufacturing for the first time, you will have to randomly determine which sensor is responsible for what and install them accordingly.

Data is displayed in integer format, tenths are discarded, and trailing zeros are suppressed. Temperature range from -9 to +99 degrees. If the temperature is out of range or if there is a sensor error on the display -- instead of the readings of the corresponding sensor.

At the first connection, upon successful initialization of all 5 sensors, their serial numbers will be written to EEPROM. This will allow you to work correctly in the future if some sensors are dismantled or faulty. In case of replacement of sensors, it is necessary to erase the EEPROM and turn on the device. Erase EEPROM is currently possible only in the programmer. Then I can figure out how to do it through the menu. MK will work without quartz 8 MHz. FUSE must be properly installed. Indicator based on HD44780 processor.

2.Working with a thermostat

1. The MENU button cycles through the menu pages.

2.In the setup menu (Installation), the parameter available for setting flashes.

3.Set using the PLUS/MINUS buttons as usual.

4. Clock on DS1307. The time is displayed in the format hh:mm:ss. Display format 24 hours. Access to the clock through the menu. Time settings are available on the page - in turn: seconds (PLUS / MINUS buttons reset the value of seconds), minutes, hours. The time for turning on the day mode - day and night - night is set. For modes, the output format is hh:mm. Clock settings are stored in the DS1307 memory.

5. Transition from one parameter to another using the UP / DOWN buttons. The buttons work on a single press, regardless of the duration.

6. After 10 seconds from the last press, the settings will be stored in memory. The display will go to the main mode.

7. When you press any button, as well as when power is applied, the backlight turns on. The backlight will turn off after 30 seconds from the last button press.

3. Boiler control algorithm

1. When power is applied to the device, the controller polls the sensors, reads information from the real time clock. The controller compares the current time with those set for day and night modes and selects the appropriate settings for the operation of thermostats.

2. Approximately after 5 seconds the device is activated and starts to control the boiler.

3. If the temperature from the Pol-1, Pol-2 or Office sensors becomes lower than the set one, then the pump, heater is switched on and voltage is applied to the corresponding actuator for supplying the coolant to this circuit. When the temperature rises above the set value by the hysteresis value, the heater turns off, the pump remains in operation for 30 seconds to ensure that the heating element cools down to a safe temperature. To ensure the flow of water through the boiler circuit, the coolant supply remains open to this circuit for the duration of the pump operation. If the operation of the boiler is necessary for another circuit, then the coolant is switched off to an already unnecessary circuit immediately.

4. Emergency mode

1. If the temperature of the heat carrier exceeds the value set for the Boiler parameter, regardless of the state of the sensors, the pump is turned on, the heater is turned off, and the Office circuit is opened to ensure the flow of water through the boiler.

2. If the sensor of any circuit fails, this circuit is considered disabled, if the heater worked on it, then after 30 seconds, the pump and the circuit will turn off.

3. In the event of a malfunction of the heat carrier temperature sensor when the boiler is running, the device will switch the boiler to the mode as indicated in paragraph 4.1.

Many adherents of gardening, engaged in the cultivation of various crops, begin with the construction of an ordinary greenhouse. After planting the seeds, various chores for the maintenance and preservation of crops begin. If the greenhouse is small, then it will not cause much concern. But what about those who have a massive structure built on the site, requiring almost constant supervision? Our material will tell about the features of "smart greenhouses", which can significantly facilitate the work of gardeners.

What it is?

Many people grow greenhouse vegetables for the sake of the process itself, because it is nice to feel that these products are practically handmade. Some owners of suburban areas with great pleasure would take up such a matter even more seriously, but there is just neither the strength nor the time for this. An automated system that controls irrigation, ventilation, and fertilizer supply is still the ultimate dream of some summer residents. In fact, all dreams are already successfully working in real life.

Due to the fact that progress is constantly developing, the "smart greenhouse" exists in reality. Development construction market and related technologies has led to the fact that today an automatic machine can manage all processes.

Actually, why the greenhouse automation? It is enough to take an ordinary greenhouse as an example and consider what processes are taking place there. Considering that the climate control there is carried out properly, but this is done, as soon as possible, albeit on a daily basis.

With the advent of the first rays of the sun, the temperature in the greenhouse begins to rise sharply. This is a very favorable time for plants. The only thing is that at the same time the temperature difference between the soil and the air is growing. In this regard, the roots, remaining cold, cannot fully supply the sprouts with moisture. This phenomenon does not have a very beneficial effect on the growth of the ovary.

Ventilation is even worse. Usually, the owner goes to ventilate the greenhouse when the temperature inside exceeds 40 ° C. With the opening of doors and vents, a draft, together with warm air, carries away the remaining moisture, forming, in fact, a desert climate. Thus, an ideal environment for the reproduction of pests and diseases is created.

By evening, when the temperature restores its balance, the plants will return to normal. But if we compare the results of the harvest, then there will be more vegetables from the automated greenhouse, and they will look much prettier. It turns out that the main task of a "smart" greenhouse is to provide a comfortable microclimate for plants.

Peculiarities

This work of "garden" art appeared a long time ago and has enjoyed well-deserved popularity for many years. Only pensioners can afford to spend all the time in their summer cottage. The remaining categories of people, to the extent of their employment, can visit their gardens only periodically.

The automatic greenhouse is a unique design designed to make the work of gardeners as easy as possible. Moreover, any greenhouse can be made “smart”. It all depends on the ingenuity of the gardener and the use of modern technologies.

A "smart" greenhouse in order to possess its "reasonable" title must necessarily meet the following characteristics:

temperature control inside the greenhouse should occur automatically using an air sensor;
mandatory presence of a drip irrigation system;
the soil in the greenhouse should be restored without human help.

There is no great need for an automated greenhouse to be stuffed from top to bottom with new products. modern systems production. The equipment of the greenhouse can be made with minimal cost. The main aspect is the consistent functionality of all installed systems. This ensures maximum efficiency is achieved.

Types and designs

All the benefits of owning a greenhouse can be seen the moment fresh and tasty vegetables appear on the table. And this happens every day, and not only in warm weather. summer days. There is no need for canning and freezing for future use. The greenhouse gives everything fresh, natural and its own.

To choose a quality design, you need to take into account the parameters of the terrain and, of course, decide on the choice of cultivated crop. It is difficult not to get lost in the variety of options offered, because today there is a large assortment of models on the market, and one is better than the other. And modern country craftsmen offer their own inventions, much more advanced than some factory designs. So what is your choice?

First you need to decide what the greenhouse is for:

what will grow in it and in what volumes;
the design will be used only in summer or all year round;
design dimensions;
the number of vegetables grown (for personal use or also for sale);
degree of greenhouse automation, etc.

Basically, the market presents glass greenhouses on a metal frame in the form of a house, as well as interesting arched structures made of polycarbonate. A sheet of this material is easier to bend in the form of an arch than to cut, in addition, the factor of tightness of the structure is important here. Before making a choice, it is necessary to consider all the disadvantages and advantages of these greenhouses.

in the shape of an arch

small plane of reflection, so more sunlight enters;
a large amount of free space - the plants have room to grow in length;
the design has a nice appearance;
ease of construction and ease of transportation;
the possibility of adding new segments to expand the sown area.

Design cons:

snow practically does not roll off such a greenhouse, and there is a possibility that the structure may bend and break;
if assembled incorrectly, the tightness can be broken and, in addition to water, harmful insects can get into the greenhouse;
with insufficiently reliable fastening to the foundation, the structure can be blown away by the wind.

Greenhouse house

Advantages:

such a structure is easy to do with your own hands;
snow on the roof does not linger, so do not worry about deflections;
in a greenhouse of this type, it is easier to install various automation systems;
the choice of materials for construction is quite diverse;
there is a possibility of additional improvement of appearance.

Disadvantages:

the greenhouse has a strong degree of reflection due to the flat surface, so the sun's heat may not be enough for the plants;
in the future, if an expansion of the area is required, it will be difficult to do this;
a large number of components that require constant monitoring;
the roof of such greenhouses is quite heavy, therefore, when erecting a structure, a powerful and solid foundation is needed.

In addition to traditional forms, other types of greenhouses can be considered. It all depends on the convenience of work and the requirements that the plants themselves impose. For example, cucumbers need a wide space, while tomatoes need height.

Today, a greenhouse called "Clever Girl" is in wide demand among summer residents. Due to the fact that the design of this greenhouse is very convenient and durable, it will serve for a very long time. But the most important thing that distinguishes this greenhouse from others is that it has an opening roof.

You can group all the benefits of "Clever" as follows:

reliability and simplicity of design;
practical type of roof;
simple adjustment of humidity and temperature parameters.

To control the roof, a special roller lift is used, the use of which does not require special skills. For the winter period, the greenhouse can be left open. Due to this, the soil will be saturated with moisture, preventing freezing of the soil and possible deformation of the roof.

In addition, this "smart" greenhouse is able to independently create the necessary microclimate inside. The very name of the greenhouse suggests that the quality is at its best here. Well, the undeniable advantage is low cost, which will allow you to recoup the costs in a short time.

You can create a "smart" greenhouse with your own hands. Automation of the greenhouse will help implement the Arduino control system, thanks to which constant monitoring of the main processes is possible. Arduino automation notifies the owner about the operation of the ventilation system, humidity, power outages and other functions. Data can be displayed on a computer or tablet display, or notification can be carried out using light signaling.

Autonomous operation of a home-made greenhouse is achieved by installing a kit that includes electrical circuits, shutters with temperature sensors and modules for various purposes.

The basic design of a home-made "smart" greenhouse allows you to automatically perform the following functions:

temperature control and regulation inside the greenhouse;
air humidity monitoring;
soil moisture;
plant lighting.

Best Options

In most cases, summer residents prefer foreign models of production, believing that foreign manufacturers produce better products. In fact, domestic analogues are in no way inferior to them in quality and functionality.

The “smart” polycarbonate greenhouse according to Kurdyumov provides for the use of a drip irrigation system and automatic ventilation without the use of electricity. It is equipped with an automatic ventilation system to provide a comfortable climate conducive to the growth of crops.

The principle of operation of the mechanism is quite simple:

a hydraulic cylinder with liquid is installed on the transom, which, in fact, can be called a temperature sensor;
when the air in the greenhouse is heated, the liquid expands, pushes the piston and the window opens;
when the temperature drops, the reverse process occurs.

The piston is capable of developing a force of up to 100 kg, which makes it possible to move a window with an area of up to 2 square meters. m. The service life of such a device reaches several years, so the price can be considered quite acceptable. The vents are usually located in such a way as not to cause excessive windage, otherwise the greenhouse may be destroyed by strong gusts of wind.

Drip irrigation is a method of supplying moisture, in which water is delivered in small portions directly to the root system of the plant. For this, a simple set of tubes, hoses and sprayers is used. Due to this, the required level of moisture is always maintained in the soil. In addition, the water has time to warm up to the ambient temperature, which has a good effect on the growth of seedlings.

The article describes the hardware implementation of the microclimate control system in the greenhouse. This system is part of a real household plot. With its help, the process of growing plants has become partially automated, not requiring the constant presence of a person.

A specific instance of this system is being tested on a glass frame greenhouse, 6 meters long, 3 meters wide, and 2 meters high. The greenhouse has one door and 2 vents, electricity and running water are provided. Water is heated in a 70 liter tank. The pressure in the tank is about two atmospheres. About 35 plants are grown in the greenhouse.

The system looks like this:

Figure 1. Scheme of the microclimate control system in the greenhouse

The central place in the system is occupied by the Arduino Mega board (in Fig. 1-1):

Figure 2. Arduino Mega

Arduino is a completely open platform, consisting of a board and a development environment, which implements a redesigned version of the Processing/Wiring language.

The hardware platform used is based on the ATmega1280 microcontroller.

This system uses 8 digital inputs/outputs (there are 54 in total on the platform) and 10 analog inputs/outputs (there are 16 in total). The board is powered by an external power supply.

The board has the following characteristics:

operating voltage: 5V;
Recommended input voltage: 7-12V;
limit input voltage: 6-20 V;
54 digital I/O ports;
16 analog inputs;
current consumption on one output: up to 40 mA;
current consumption output 3.3V: 50 mA;
Flash Memory: 128 KB, of which 4 KB are used by the bootloader;
RAM: 8 KB;
non-volatile memory: 4 KB;
clock frequency: 16 MHz;
size: 75x54x15mm;
weight: 45 g;

The necessary sensors and modules are connected to the Arduino Mega.

Turning on / off irrigation depends on a number of parameters:

soil moisture;
water temperature;
Times of Day.

In this system, 4 soil moisture sensors are involved (in Fig. 1 - 2).

To measure soil moisture, a self-made sensor is used, which is two nails and a resistor. The principle of operation is based on the dependence of the electrical resistance of the soil on its moisture content.

Nails inserted into the soil at some distance from each other act as probes, between which the resistance is checked. According to the final analog signal, one can judge the degree of humidity.

The sensor circuit is shown in the figure:

To measure the water temperature, an LM335Z analog temperature sensor (thermal stabilitron, in Figure 1 - 3) is used:

Figure 4. LM335Z analog thermal sensor

The sensor used has the following characteristics:

range: -40…+100;
accuracy: 1°С;
dependency: 10mV/oC.

To connect the sensor to the board, a resistor with a resistance of 2.2 kOhm is required. Setting the current through the sensor in the range from 0.45 mA to 5 mA (resistor R1), we get the voltage on the sensor, which in tens of mV represents the absolute temperature in degrees Kelvin.

The connection diagram looks like this:

In order for watering to turn on only at night, 2 Light Sensor-BH1750 light sensors are used (in Fig. 1 - 4):

This sensor is used to measure illumination in the range from 1 to 65535 lux.

It has the following characteristics:

Supply voltage: 3-5V;

Resolution: 16 bits;

Dimensions: 19x14x3 mm;

Accuracy: ± 20%.

The sensor is connected as follows:

Figure 7. Connecting the light sensor Light Sensor-BH1750

When the readings received from the sensors meet certain conditions (it differs for each type of plant), watering is turned on. A solenoid valve is used to control irrigation. It is connected to the board using a relay (in Fig. 1 - 5). Namely, the relay module for Arduino projects Relay Module 2 DFR0017 is used. It uses high quality Omron G5LA relay. The status of the relay output is indicated by an LED. This module is controlled by a digital I/O port. The contact switching time is 10 ms. Like sensors for measuring soil temperature and moisture, the relay module is connected to the control electronics via three wires:

Figure 9. DHT11 Temperature Humidity Sensor

Beyond watering this system controls the air temperature in the greenhouse.

The DHT11 Temperature Humidity Sensor is used for simultaneous measurement of air temperature and humidity (fig. 1 — 6).

It is connected to the control electronics via three wires: power (Vcc), ground GND) and signal.

On the board, in addition to the sensor, there is a microcontroller, in whose memory the calibration corrections for the sensors are stored. The signal from the device is transmitted over the bus in digital form. This allows you to transfer data over a distance of up to 20 m.

This sensor has the following characteristics:

supply voltage: 5 V;
temperature range: 0-50°С, error ±2°С;
humidity: 20-90%, error ±5%.

To adjust the air temperature in the greenhouse, two modes are used: passive and active ventilation. Passive ventilation is the opening / closing of the vents, and active ventilation is turning the fan on / off.

The windows are opened using two (one per window) Futaba T306 MG995 servo drives (Figure 1 - 7):

Figure 10. Futaba T306 MG995 servo

The servo used has the following characteristics:

operating speed: 0.17s / 60 degrees (4.8V no load);
torque: 13 kg-cm at 4.8 V;
moment: 15 kg-cm at 6 V;
operating voltage: 4.8 - 7.2 V;
wire length: 300 mm;
dimensions: 40mm x 19mm x 43mm;
weight: 55 g.

The data received from the sensors is recorded on the SD memory card (in Figure 1 - 8). In the future, they are processed, analyzed, and graphs of various indications are built on their basis. For this, the DFRobot SD card module is used:

Figure 11. SD card module

The fan is connected in the same way as the valve connection (via the relay module).

Vitaly

Greenhouse controller on Arduino

This year I built a 30 sq. m. for tomatoes. Initially, I planned to cover it with polycarbonate, however, after weighing all the pros and cons, I decided to use a copolymer ethylene vinyl acetate film. Well, now that the season is ending, I can already say that I made the right choice and the greenhouse pleased me with quite a decent harvest (approximately, about one and a half centners). The dimensions of the greenhouse are 3.8 * 8, i.e., approximately 30 square meters. m. of total area, of which approximately 24 sq. m. m. useful. Ventilation was carried out naturally through open doors and vents located at the ends of the greenhouse. The maximum temperature in the greenhouse with open doors and vents did not exceed the outside temperature by more than 5 degrees at the peak, although there are no vents at all on the side surfaces of the greenhouse. If I used SPK to cover the greenhouse ( cellular polycarbonate), the temperature in the absence of vents in the roof would rise over forty. In addition, the transparency of the used film, like that of a monolithic PC, is high - 92%, which ensured that the tomatoes bore very well and were clearly in generative mode due to the abundance of light. In SPC, although the transparency of each layer is approximately the same, the percentage of light passing into the greenhouse is significantly less - 92% * 92% \u003d 84%, plus part is lost on the partitions, which ultimately gives transparency no higher than 82%. As a result, plants receive significantly less light and go into a more vegetative mode, producing more leaf mass and less tomato. And besides, you have to constantly deal with the formation of the leaf mass, which is in excess due to the competition of plants due to lack of illumination.
In my greenhouse, due to the abundance of light, I didn’t have to cut the leaves at all, I only broke off the stepchildren, there were few leaves on the plants, and there were a lot of fruits. True, another problem arose - a light burn of leaves and fruits. On the leaves, this was manifested in the yellowness of young leaves, which formed shortly before the onset of heat, and on the fruits, in the appearance of white sides on the fruits from the side facing the sunlight. This factor had a very negative impact on the harvest, which could have been even much larger, and even led to the fact that the bushes did not retain their full-fledged appearance by autumn, and even the phytophthora tried. Then I still did not know anything about phytophthora - how it arises, which contributes to its spread. Then I learned that for a tomato, the cold is not so much terrible as the "bath" - when the plants stay for a long time during the day, like in a steam room, which occurs if the sun is already in the sky, and the greenhouse is completely closed. All summer I didn’t close the greenhouse at all, neither day nor night, regardless of any changes in the weather, the doors and vents were constantly open. However, closer to autumn, when due to cold nights the greenhouse needs to be closed at night, when just fungal diseases begin to rage, and temperature changes during the night and day, and therefore condensate increase sharply, windows that are not open on time can help you at a time finish the season. This is exactly what happened to me - the whole day the tomatoes were almost "wet" at a temperature of 20-30 gr. and everyone fell ill with late blight due to the fact that at the moment I did not have any ventilation automation, and I could not come to the greenhouse every day. As a result, I had to throw out 7 buckets of mostly almost red and pink ripe tomatoes.
Interestingly, despite the total disease with phytophthora, as soon as I eliminated the causes of the disease and began to monitor the opening and closing of the windows in a timely manner, the bushes began to continue to grow and grow more or less healthy fruits, so in September I almost removed almost all harvest. In October, we managed to remove about 8 additional buckets of fruit, and now about a hundred are still ripening there.
In what follows, I will continue to describe how I came to the conclusion that it was necessary to use automatic system temperature and humidity control and why it is better to make a control system based on a controller. Then I think to go directly to the project. In general, this topic is not about what has already been done, but about what I am just going to do - the topic is about further improvement of the greenhouse, and I firmly decided to develop and implement the system. If you want to participate in the discussion of this topic, you are welcome, for this it is not at all necessary to wait until I finish the presentation of this prelude, especially since, in general, it is not obligatory.

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Vitaly

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

Returned home, continue. Below you can see some photos of the construction of the greenhouse and the ripening of the crop. I had no seedlings this year - tall varieties were only enough for the outer beds, and even then not completely, the rest was planted with undersized ones. Moreover, half of the tall ones and all the short ones were frozen on the window and they were delayed in development by almost 2 months. They planted seedlings in a permanent place late - on June 1 and 2, and I covered the greenhouse only on July 21, and that was only because the weather outside at that time completely deteriorated, it was cold, it was raining continuously, so I had to cover it with a strong wind and, just threw a film - it started to rain. And literally on the second day after the shelter, the weather changed dramatically and the heat set in. Tomatoes did not endure such a sharp transition very easily, given that in the evening, when I covered the greenhouse, I did not have time to make windows and doors, and the greenhouse stood completely covered until 12 o’clock the next day, while I arrived to finish it.
Literally after 2-3 days, I realized that I could not cope with a temperature of 30 in the heat, if only because it was sometimes up to 33 on the street. I thought for a long time about how to solve the problem, I really didn’t want to cover the greenhouse from the sun, because a decrease in illumination by 1% is equivalent to a decrease in yield by 1%, and in spring even more - the crop is lost by 1.5%. One of the options was to install sprayers on the roof of the greenhouse, which would work when the temperature in the greenhouse rises above 30 degrees, the other is to make 3 doors on each side, the possibility of which was laid down at the design development stage. Moreover, the doors were supposed to be made as openings into which frames could be inserted, covered with an anti-mosquito net or frames covered with a film if it was cold, but I decided not to do this at the manufacturing stage.
It didn't take long for me to realize that there was a very effective way to quickly lower the temperature in a greenhouse using foggers, while at the same time adjusting the humidity in the greenhouse. Now I decided to include foggers - foggers in the climate control system, and return to shading if for some reason this measure turns out to be insufficient to keep the temperature at 25-30 degrees. and avoiding the formation of white barrels on tomatoes due to a combination of strong light and high temperature, although I think everything will be fine.
Next, I will talk about my conclusions about what temperature regime should be provided to tomatoes during the day for their normal growth and development, how this can be ensured, and why hydraulic cylinder-based ventilators are completely unsuitable for these purposes.
And here are some photos:

Investments:

Last edit: 10/20/15

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

Vitaly

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

Temperature regime

Based on the initial experience of operating a greenhouse this year, I concluded that there is no more important task in the process of growing plants in it than the task of temperature control. This is equally important for a greenhouse with any coating, even film, even SPC, even profiled polycarbonate. Of course, there are coatings in which this issue is practically not relevant - these are not transparent coatings, but white coatings and mesh greenhouses, but we will not consider these options here. Moreover, in this topic, I decided to confine myself to considering the regulation of the parameters of a greenhouse made exclusively for tomatoes.
The fact is that each plant has its own favorite range of temperatures, humidity and other parameters. In order not to spread my thoughts along the tree, where I took these specific temperature levels required for tomatoes, which I will give below, I leave it to you, if the need arises, to check them and clarify them. I won’t even mention it again, but I’ll just copy what I said recently in this thread:

And what, in fact, is required to create at least some of the most primitive climate control in a greenhouse? For tomatoes, for example?
You just need to monitor the temperature outside and open the windows as early as possible in the morning, when the temperature outside rises above about 12 degrees, in order to dry the leaves and fruits from condensation, you need to open the windows and doors when the temperature in the greenhouse rises above 25 gr. and turn on the foggers when the temperature rises above 30, and turn on the heating of the greenhouse when the temperature in it drops below 12.
That, perhaps, is all. If you add some more automation, I'm afraid it will not be better, but worse. For amateur greenhouses at this level, this minimum is perhaps optimal, allowing you to get a decent harvest of healthy products, and not the crumbs that most now have.
And another snippet:
The question is how much is needed?
Not much, unfortunately. In order for something to be in demand, it is necessary, at least, to realize the need for it. And at what level many argue here with us, one can judge by a rather typical statement: My cucumbers grow in the same greenhouse with tomatoes and bear excellent fruit. Well, what can you explain to a person who is not familiar with the basics of agricultural technology? And since he has zero understanding of the need to maintain some kind of climate in the greenhouse, then, naturally, he has no demand for systems that support him. he will read it and say something, emphemic, like: “Tomatoes will be golden”, or maybe he will express himself more clearly and rudely, like: “The cat has nothing to do ... well, etc.
Many people prefer to simply build entire sarcophagi for plants with complex underground heat storage systems and pay 200 thousand or more for them (no offense to them, they are not doing this for mercantile reasons), instead of installing at least the simplest thermoregulation system, Yes, and they say that there is no other way (but this is already an offense).
And now let's look from the other side. There are people who are well versed in electronics and programming and they can easily make a very inexpensive control system, but I don’t see even one of them saying: For a tomato, you need to provide this, that, and that. And then their development could become very valuable for many, at least for those whose consciousness is not blinkered by the need to build sarcophagi - the same dinosaurs in terms of automatic regulation, like an ordinary film tunnel, even if it was called pretentiously, say, "Sunny Vegetarian Ivanov".
Yes, that you need a special thermostat. If you use a separate device to control each individual parameter, it will not work either simply or reliably. I'm afraid that in order to implement the minimum I specified, one cannot do without a controller.

Yes, you will say, we will make a device in a minimalist form, and then it turns out that there is still a lot of everything to follow, alterations and rise in price will begin. Fortunately, automation based on software devices differs from rigid automation schemes in that it is not difficult to change control parameters and introduce new functions, and the costs increase, mainly only for additional sensors and actuators, and only the program changes in the system itself. . Therefore, it is quite reasonable, at the first stages, to limit as much as possible the number of functions performed by regulating only temperature and humidity, so as not to waste extra effort and money.
Humidity in a greenhouse is just as important a parameter as temperature, but these parameters are strongly related, therefore, by adjusting the temperature, we will also change the humidity at the same time, and not absolute, but relative humidity is important. For the sake of simplicity, don't overthink it for now, it's better to focus only on temperature control, but more on that next time where I try to list everything. necessary equipment to create a minimum system of regulation and roughly estimate what it will cost.

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

Vitaly

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

More about temperature

I was thinking, I probably need to describe in more detail the reasons why the temperature in the greenhouse should be regulated exactly within the limits that I described above.
The fact is that the growth of southern plants at temperatures below 12 gr. generally stops, and if it is even lower, they begin to wither and catch various diseases, therefore it is impossible to open a greenhouse when the outside temperature is below 12. On the other hand, in the morning, a lot of condensate collects on the leaves and fruits in the greenhouse. If you allow a "bath" when the bushes are wet, and the temperature rises to 20 and above - this is paradise for phytophthora - it's better not to. So you can ditch the entire crop very quickly. Therefore, you need to open the windows as early as possible. In the summer in the middle lane, it's easiest to just not close the windows and doors at all, but somewhere in August, according to the weather, you need to switch everything to automatic.
The optimum temperature for tomatoes is 25 gr. If it rises higher, you just need to open the ventilation windows. If the temperature rises above 30, this is fraught with leaf damage from overheating, pollen sterilization, sunburn and other troubles, therefore, when reaching 30 gr. foggers should work - foggers that effectively lower the temperature by several degrees.
If the temperature in the greenhouse falls below 12 degrees, then this, I think, is already clear - I described it above - a heater of any type should be turned on. In the fall, when you just need to ensure the growing of the fruit that has set, I think you can lower this threshold of degrees to 6-10 in order to save energy. By the way, heating up to 40 degrees during the day is not so terrible, since the tomatoes are already at the stage of growing and the sterilization of the inflorescences is not terrible. If your tomatoes have already been infected, then such a high-temperature heating will kill late blight, therefore, for the purpose of disinfection, you can intentionally leave the greenhouse completely closed for several hours on a sunny day on purpose, only so that the temperature in the greenhouse rises, while above 30 gr. After that, the greenhouse must be thoroughly ventilated. Actually, I did just that, and maybe that's why the tomatoes in my greenhouse are still alive.
Well, perhaps that's all. Even if this is only realized, the plants will be in much more comfortable conditions and will give a much larger yield than in a greenhouse, in which the temperature jumps from 35 gr. in the afternoon up to 5 gr. at night. In any case, such an algorithm is quite suitable as a reliable basis, and there the question of further optimization will clear up by itself in the course of practical operation.
And now - about the minimum set of equipment that will be needed for the control system.
Controller hardware set

1. Controller - 1
2. Display unit (screen) for the controller - 1
3. Power supply 12 V for the controller - 1
4. Outdoor temperature sensor - 1
5. Internal temperature sensor - 1
6. heat gun - 1
7. Electric door drives (actuators) - 2
8. Electric drives of transoms (actuators) - at least 2, for greenhouses from SPK - more
9. Foggers (foggers) - for a greenhouse 8 m long approximately 8
10. Equipment cabinet - 1
11. Residual current device - 1
Well, to ensure autonomy, in the event of a power outage, the solar panel - and the battery - 1. And, along the way, there are still various little things, such as pipes for electrical wiring, the wires themselves, etc.
I don’t quote the cost of each piece of equipment now - it’s just like laziness and there is no time, anyway, it will be gradually refined, the best options, suppliers, models will be selected, so I hope the interested participants will help to decide on this issue.

Last edit: 10/21/15

Vitaly, it is not clear to whom your very detailed statement is addressing. Judging by the fact that you chew the basics in detail, most likely for beginners, because everyone else, it seems, should be familiar with the above. The topic of greenhouse automation raised by you is undoubtedly necessary and important, but it causes some skepticism, the path you have chosen.
I do not pretend to be the ultimate truth, but as I see it, usually the project starts a little differently. First, goals and objectives are discussed and set, technical specifications are drawn up, appropriate solutions are selected. Sometimes even one small paragraph of the TOR crosses out the use of any solution methods, narrowing the scope of the available tools. So in a nutshell. You have already chosen the Arduino platform right away. Then explain why it is her, and not, for example, raspberry PI or something else. Arduino very elementary platform. Choosing it, you have to assign a very limited set of tasks to it, greatly narrowing your Wishlist. Until now, very elementary crafts have been done on it. There were regrets of enthusiasts working on it that it "does not pull" many tasks. Also, it seems that the set of sensors for it is very limited. I am not against automation and discussion, but, personally, for me, building a system on Arduino does not cause practical interest. So I'll be curious, maybe I'll go and read it and that's it.
Don't narrow the topic down to just one platform, don't discount the capabilities of other platform enthusiasts. Then the topic will probably be more crowded and useful solutions will appear more often.
P.S. If this topic was created only to describe your experiments with Arduino, then I apologize in advance that I got into the wrong place with advice. I'm already talking about what I want to have in the greenhouse, so to speak, the minimum technical specification that I see.

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

Vitaly

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

Vitaly, it is not clear to whom your very detailed statement is addressing.
...as I see it, usually the project starts a little differently. ...You have already chosen the Arduino platform right away. Then explain why it is her, and not, for example, raspberry PI or something else. Arduino very elementary platform. Choosing it, you have to assign a very limited set of tasks to it ... Until now, very elementary crafts have been done on it. There were regrets of enthusiasts working on it that it "does not pull" many tasks. Also, it seems that the set of sensors for it is very limited. ...for me personally, building a system on Arduino does not cause practical interest. ...Don't narrow the topic down to just one platform, don't dismiss the possibilities of other platform enthusiasts. Then the topic will probably be more crowded and useful solutions will appear more often.
... I'm already talking about what I want to have in the greenhouse, so to speak, the minimum technical specification ...
In general, for every active forum member who writes comments, there are, judging by statistics, 200-300 just reading. Who are we referring them to? Are they newbies? Or are there many advanced ones among them who simply do not want to enter into a discussion that seems small to them, or do they simply not have enough time to participate in discussions? On the other hand, if there is a group that does not need to chew the basics, then we do not see their development in this area. Such discussions on this forum arose more than once, but the result is something not noticeable. I know only 3 examples of, perhaps, successful greenhouse automation. The first example - I gave the link above, the second one: I don’t remember, however, whether it really has an implementation on the microcontroller, and even SergeiL’s greenhouse runs under the control of a Samsung-based controller.
Naturally, I chose the Arduino platform for myself, and if I encounter difficulties in the process of implementing the system on it, I, as they say, will be responsible for this. But I immediately stipulated that I did not intend to somehow limit the freedom of discussion in this topic and was ready to discuss any aspects, except, of course, a simple blabbering of the issue. So please discuss any platform if you find a correspondent. I have already made a decision on what to stop, because if there is not a single one among those discussing who has decided, then, accordingly, there will be no result in the end.
And about the fact that Arduino is a very elementary platform, I would like to clarify what you mean by this? Enthusiast opinion? Let's look specifically at what kind of enthusiasts are they and what did they try to do on Arduino before they came to this conclusion? Arduino is just a circuit oriented language, which makes it understandable to people who understand electronics. This is an open platform, so there are a lot of ready-made solutions, it is designed so that even non-specialists can start doing something for themselves using software technology, which led to the emergence of many such enthusiasts. Yes, it allows, but it does not exclude the need for a serious education, but this is exactly what enthusiasts often lack, which is why they begin to shift from a sore head to a healthy one. And therefore, before putting an end to Arduino technology, I would like to know what fundamental limitation of the capabilities of this language can you bring? Does he weigh a lot? The command system does not have functional completeness? Not enough speed? Extremely inconvenient in programming? What exactly?
I'll tell you a little secret. The thing is that you don’t have to do anything special in developing circuitry or programming for automating a greenhouse. This has already been done before us and greenhouses have been working for a long time and not just one person. You can just stupidly repeat everything without inventing anything, if this is enough for you and you don’t want to add something of your own. Get acquainted with the material, maybe you will change your mind about Arduino.

Registration: 03.11.13 Messages: 651 Acknowledgments: 766

Understood, I will not interfere in the discussion. I have a little more Wishlist from automation, which is why Arduino did not suit me, although, I repeat, my knowledge of it - superficial, learned from reading forums on this platform, may not be sufficient.

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

Vitaly

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

Arduino very elementary platform. Choosing it, you have to assign a very limited set of tasks to it, greatly narrowing your Wishlist. Until now, very elementary crafts have been done on it. There were regrets of enthusiasts working on it that it "does not pull" many tasks.
Here is this topic to help you to fix your attitude to Arduino. As far as I, not a programmer, understood from a dispute between two programmers, claims against Arduino are not in the weakness of the platform. The claims were connected, as far as I understood, with her insufficiently high level, according to the opponent. However, a low level, you see, increases the power and speed of the language - any system programmer will tell you that. And the fact that the low level complicates the writing of the program, as he claims, is depending on whom. After all, Arduino is a language tailored for electronics engineers, so for them, as a specialized language, it will be much more convenient than universal. Another thing is for programmers who understand electronics rather poorly, and they ate a dog in high-level languages - therefore their opinion can be understood.

Last edit: 10/21/15

Registration: 10/20/11 Messages: 1.177 Acknowledgments: 570

In my opinion, before arguing on what to build automation on, you need to decide on the technical specification, otherwise you will now push the industrial CNC into the greenhouse in order to open a couple of vents according to temperature. Although, again, if it is convenient for someone to work with one or another controller and there is an opportunity to use it, then why not, even if it is redundant. In any case, it is necessary to start with technical specifications and the construction of a control algorithm. So far, from the above, it follows that: below 12 turn on the heating, above 25 open the window, above 30 turn on the foggers. While the circuit is very simple, you can even do without a controller.

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261

Vitaly

Registration: 06/23/13 Messages: 5.837 Acknowledgments: 6.261 Address: Bryansk

... In any case, you need to start with technical specifications and build a control algorithm. So far, from the above, it follows that: below 12 turn on the heating, above 25 open the window, above 30 turn on the foggers. While the circuit is very simple, you can even do without a controller.
Well, try it. I'm not sure that you can do without a controller even with such a simple algorithm. But you have already simplified the algorithm proposed by me, because I wrote that there are 2 sensors: one is in the greenhouse, the other is on the street, I just suggested the same threshold in both cases - 12 gr.
Do you think that it will be easy to implement even such a very simple algorithm in such an inertial object as a greenhouse? It can already be assumed that many obstacles will arise in the way of its implementation. For example, foggers instantly bring down the temperature at the top of the greenhouse, and overheating remains at the bottom, which means that intensive air mixing and additional sensors will be required with the complication, of course, of the control program. Humidity, too, cannot be increased uncontrollably - this will already begin to harm the culture, and an effective decrease in temperature will become impossible. Therefore, it is assumed that in the future the algorithm and the entire system will become more complicated, it will be necessary to introduce fans for air mixing and for exhaust ventilation in order to reduce humidity.
Just on this stage much cannot be foreseen, especially since, for example, I have never done anything like this before. Therefore, he proposed precisely the minimally complex option, which still cannot be done by simpler means, for example, using a thermostat. The meaning of this approach is that it is not difficult to complicate the device in the future. Therefore, now I would like to do the circuitry part - try to draw a diagram of the device core. The editor for drawing e-mail. I saw the schemes in the topic, which I already cited above. I already downloaded it myself, though I still have no idea how to work in it. It is difficult and long for one to move, especially when you don’t know much, so everything will go on very slowly. Today I spent the whole day choosing devices on the Internet - everything that needs to be bought, considered many options and, perhaps, made far from the best choice, but the process gradually began.
The editor can be found here: sPlan- maybe someone is familiar with it or can advise the best one, but for now I'll try to use it.

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