Safety systems and self-insurance in mountaineering. Self-insurance in mountaineering However, they have several disadvantages

Self-belaying is not only a team in mountaineering, but also ... self-belaying.
They are different, and so that you do not get confused about how to use one or the other, we will analyze everything.

Remember the main thing - the safest and most reliable self-belay is a piece of the main rope with a diameter of 9-10 mm, tied into your belay system. Remember? Now about the rest.

Summary table for self-insurance - at the end of the article

Self-insurance from the end of a ligament rope

Self-insurance from your rope is knitted in 7-8 seconds and does not require additional equipment. We assume that you have tied one end of the rope to yourself (the leader is always tied, right?).

Choose how much rope you need
Tie the stirrup
Put a carabiner in it
Self-insurance is ready!

This method is suitable for twos, or for leaders working on two ropes. A new UIAA-certified dynamic rope will elongate 40% or less (UIAA-101 standard), and absorb some of the energy of the jerk.

Ideologically correct safe self-insurance

Made from a piece of dynamic rope.
This self-insurance will take 3-4 meters of rope. Make one mustache short and use for clamping. Its length should be such that the jumar, fastened to the mustache with a carabiner, is at the level of the face. Make the second mustache long, but not longer than the outstretched arm. He is self-insurance, and use the first one for clamping.

Add a Prussik knot to the base of the mustache and the lanyard becomes adjustable. Tie a tie knot on the lanyard and attach to the harness in the same way as a lanyard. To shorten the lanyard, take up some slack between the catch knot and carabiner. Such self-insurance extinguishes the energy of the jerk by stretching the rope, tightening the knots and etching in the grasping knot.

Ready-made rope lanyards

The second safe option. It is good if the self-insurance is attached to the harness with a semi-grasping knot, and not with a carabiner. The carabiner in this case is an extra link in the safety chain. IN ready lanyard there are no knots, but stitching is used instead. When falling onto such a self-insurance, part of the energy will be absorbed by the stretching of the rope. Stitched lanyards cannot be shortened out of the box, but nothing prevents you from tying a grasping knot, as in the example above.

An option for lovers of everything Western in general, and cordalets in particular. It is knitted from a piece of cord with a thickness of 7 mm. If the cord complies with the EN 564 standard, then it will withstand a minimum of 9.8 kN. The length of this piece is easy to adjust. When broken, the grasping knot will pickle the rope. In combination with stretching the cord, the jerk will be less rigid.

Metolius PAS, Sterling Chain Reactor and stuff like that

The safest of the "non-rope" lanyards. In contrast to daisy chains (about them below), in such self-insurance, each ring is power. If there is no damage on the lanyard and it is fastened to you with a carabiner, then it will withstand breaking as much as the manufacturer indicated in the passport. A semi-grasping knot will weaken it by 30-60%. When jerking, the slings absorb energy worse than the rope. A nylon line will absorb ~5% of the energy of the dash, and (Dyneema / Spectra) almost nothing.

And yes, they will withstand the passport load only if they are fastened with a carabiner.

Lanyards tied from a sling

They have several disadvantages. They absorb the energy of a jerk worse than a rope, their length cannot be adjusted, compared to rope ones they are more sensitive to chafing. One plus is they are lightweight.

Daisy chains of all stripes

Not self-insurance. At all. That's what the manufacturers say. This is how they show it in videos on YouTube and in passports for daisy chains. They are for IT. But who cares. Many use them as self-insurance. It's convenient and everyone does it. If you shorten the daisy chain incorrectly (which is not difficult), then it will break under a load of 200-300 kilograms. If you shorten it correctly, but tie any knot, then it will lose 30–60% of its strength. We examined the strength of the lines
Do not use daisy chains for self-insurance! If you really want to - buy self-insurance from rings (read about them above).

cliffs

Like daisy chains, they are not self-insurance. They are made for climbing on aids. The breaking load of the cliff ranges from 120 kg for the Petzel to 300 kg for the Metolius. And if the daisy chain can still be adapted as self-insurance, then this will not work with the cliff. The fact is that the sling under load will break on the buckle. Watch the video below. For IT only.

Lanyards for ice tools

Quite flimsy. They do not allow tools to fall down and break under a load of 200 kg (BD and Grivel). Use rubber bands only for ice tools.

Rubber bands should never be used for belaying or self-belaying. They will break under a load of 200 kg.
From the passport to the rubber bands Grivel.

Comparison different types lanyards
Type	pros	Minuses
From the end of the main rope	Easy to adjust Safely No extra equipment needed	Limited scope
From the main line	Easy to adjust Safely	bulky Uncomfortable to shoot
From the sewn main rope	Easy to put on and take off Safely Smaller than a piece of rope	not regulated You need to carefully choose the length of the mustache
Parsel prussik	Easy to adjust Easy to put on and take off Relatively safe Well extinguishes a jerk	Difficult to knit Bulky Only one mustache
PAS and others	Easy to adjust Easy to put on and take off Relatively safe Doesn't get under your feet	Doesn't absorb energy well
From a sling	Easy Easy to put on and take off	Can't be regulated Doesn't absorb energy well Less wear resistant than rope
Daisy chain	Easy Easy to shorten Easy to put on and take off	Not lanyard
cliffs	Convenient to shorten	Not lanyard
Rubber bands for tools	Lungs themselves are shortened	Not lanyard

CONCLUSIONS:

Feel free to use: from the end of the main rope, from a piece of rope, sewn from a rope
Use with caution: from sewn rings and parcels of Prussians
Do not use: daisy chains, clips, tied lines and tool bands.

A belay system in the field of mountaineering is an element of equipment that a climber puts on and to which a rope is attached using a carabiner or. The belay system is designed to distribute the force during the jerk of the rope due to a fall and prevent injury to the climber. Individual harnesses that are used in mountaineering must meet the requirements of the UIAA.

In mountaineering, however, as in rock climbing or mountain tourism, there are several types of belay systems - chest harness or upper system, gazebo or lower system, combined or complete system.

The main components in the insurance system can be called:

Buckle.
Ring.
Eyelets or so-called balconies on the sides of the system.

What is self-insurance?

A self-belay is a device that is designed to belay and position a climber on difficult mountainous terrain. The self-insurance must, without damage and destruction, withstand the largest calculated jerk and provide a load of no more than 12 kN on the broken one.

Self-belay systems are made in a production way or tied with your own hands from certified dynamic rope.

The safety chain includes: the belayer, the belayer's self-belay, the belay station, the belay device, the belay system, the intermediate belay points, carabiners and the rope that connects it all.

In the selection process, the main rule for the formation of the insurance chain is the use of equipment certified, tested and manufactured specifically for this task.

For this reason, it is strictly forbidden to use a static rope for the bottom belay and it is not recommended to use a mustache from a tape for self-insurance. However, it should be remembered that even the use of certified equipment cannot give guarantees, since the use of erroneous techniques or the use of equipment with errors is no less dangerous.

Self-insurance from the end of a ligamentous rope

A self-belay from the end of a tie rope can be tied in just a few seconds and, at the same time, no additional equipment is needed:

You need to choose how much rope you need.
Next, tie the stirrup.
Now insert a carabiner into it.
Ready.

This method is suitable either for leaders who work on two ropes, or for deuces. New UIAA certified dynamic ropes are capable of forty percent elongation or less during a 1.7 snatch factor.

The most secure self-insurance

They are made from a piece of dynamic rope. It takes about three or four meters of rope for such self-insurance. One mustache must be made short and used for clamping. It should have the optimal length so that the jumar, which is fastened to the mustache with a carabiner, is located at the level of the face. The second mustache must be made long, but it should not be longer than the outstretched arm. The latter is self-insurance.

To make the lanyard adjustable, you need to add a prusik to the base of the mustache. The grasping knot must be tied on the lanyard and attached to the harness in the same way as a lanyard. For shortening, you should take the slack between the carabiner and the grasping knot.

Such insurance is able to extinguish the energy of the jerk by tightening the knots, stretching the rope and etching in the setting knot.

These insurances are not advised to be used by participants in a climbing camp.

Ready-made ligamentous self-insurance

An equally safe option is ready-made ligamentous self-insurance. It is desirable that the lanyard be attached to the harness not with a carabiner, but with a semi-grasping knot. In such a situation, the carbine is an extra link in the belay system.

In the finished self-insurance, stitching is used instead of knots. During a fall on such a belay, part of the energy is absorbed by the stretching of the rope. It is forbidden to shorten the sewn lanyards out of the box, however you can tie a knot as above.

parsel prussian

Parsel-Prussik is the best option for lovers of cordalets and everything Western in general. It is knitted from a piece of cord with a thickness of seven millimeters. If the cord complies with EN 564 standards, then it is able to withstand a minimum of 9.8 kN.

The length of this piece is fairly easy to adjust. In the event of a break, the rope will pickle the grasping knot. In combination with stretching the cord, you get a less hard pull.

Sterling Chain Reactor, Metolius PAS and the like

The safest of non-rope lanyards. Each ring in such self-insurance is power. If the insurance is not damaged and fastened with two carabiners to you, then it is able to withstand exactly as much tearing as indicated in the passport by the manufacturer.

A semi-grasping knot is able to weaken it by 30-60%. Slings absorb energy worse than rope when pulled. A nylon sling is capable of dissipating about five percent of the energy of a jerk, which is very little.

In addition, they can withstand the passport load only if they are fastened with carabiners.

It is advisable to use such a lanyard in combination with a lanyard from the end of the tie rope.

Self-insurance tied from a sling

In principle, such insurance was invented for speleologists. For mountaineering, they are not very convenient - a long mustache is suitable for a jumar, and a short one is for carrying a basket when descending.

If we talk about the absorption of jerk energy by self-insurance, then such types of insurance will absorb worse than a rope, but better than Dinema. It is fastened with two carabiners. In fact, there are practically no amenities for climbers, but there are disadvantages.

Tied from a sling

Their advantage is that they are very light.

However, they also have several disadvantages:

The presence of sensitivity to abrasion compared to rope lanyards.
No length regulation.
They absorb the energy of a jerk significantly worse than a rope.

Daisy chains of various types

None of the Daisy chains, in fact, is self-insurance - so say the manufacturers. The main purpose of Daisy chains is ITO - this is a climbing style in mountaineering, where the support points are artificial.

However, no one is interested in this - a lot of climbers use them as self-insurance because of the ease of use.

If you shorten the daisy chain in the wrong way, which is not so difficult to do, with a load of two hundred or three hundred kilograms it will break. If you shorten it correctly, but tie any knot, it can lose thirty to sixty percent of its strength.

For the reasons outlined above, it is not advisable to use daisy chains as self-insurance.

cliffs

Just like daisy chains, they are not self-insurance and are designed specifically for AID. Them breaking load varies from 120 kg for Petzel to 300 kg for Metolius.

Daisy chains can still be adapted as self-insurance, but with clips this will not work in any way, since the sling on the buckle will break under load.

Lanyards for ice tools

They are quite flimsy. Their main task is to prevent ice tools from falling down and can break under a load of 200 kg. Rubber bands can only be used for ice tools and in no case can be used for insurance or self-insurance.

Comparison of various types of lanyards from the passport of Grivel rubber bands

From the end of the main rope:

Advantages - safety, easy adjustment, no need for additional equipment.
Disadvantages - the scope is limited.

From the main rope:

Advantages - safety, easy adjustment.
Disadvantages - bulky size, inconvenient to remove.

From the sewn main rope:

Advantages - safety, easy to take off and put on, mostly more compact than from a piece of rope.
Disadvantages - it is impossible to adjust, the length of the mustache must be chosen carefully.

Parcel prusik:

Advantages - relative safety, simple adjustment, easy to put on and take off, perfectly dampens the jerk.
Disadvantages - bulky size, difficult to knit, only one mustache.

PAS and others like it:

Advantages - relative safety, easy adjustment, easy to put on and take off, does not get confused under your feet.
Disadvantages - poor absorption of jerk energy.

From string:

Pros: Lightweight, easy to put on and take off.
Disadvantages - it is impossible to regulate, poor absorption of jerk energy, less wear-resistant in comparison with the rope.

Daisy Chain:

Advantages - light, easy to shorten, easy to remove and put on.

Cliffs:

Advantages - easy and convenient to shorten.
Disadvantages - not self-insurance.

Rubber bands for tools:

Advantages - they themselves are shortened, light.
Disadvantages - not self-insurance.

Thus, the following conclusions can be drawn:

You can safely use - from the end of the main rope, sewn from a rope, from a piece of rope.
Use with care - Prusik parcel, made of sewn rings.
Not recommended for use - clips, daisy chains, tied slings, rubber bands for tools.

In the end, I would like to say that insurance, like no other part of mountaineering technique, requires regular and constant training and attention. Experienced climbers who have been climbing together for many years and have an excellent command of climbing techniques, in practice, may never experience a real need for action in the event of a breakdown of a ligament partner.

Therefore, it is necessary to know the procedure during a breakdown. In addition, it is necessary to be able to reliably and correctly organize a belay station - to qualitatively use the relief and microrelief for the implementation of belay and self-insurance techniques.

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Today we will talk a little about Daisy Chain.

The use of Daisy Chain as self-insurance has become threatening. And, I confess, I myself contributed to this to a large extent - I taught beginners how to use this thing. It's time to dot the i's and sprinkle ashes on your head.

Daisy Chain is NOT self-insurance. As I already wrote, our trouble is a total unwillingness to read instructions, and even more so, to follow them. We are smarter than you ;-).

Initially, Daisy Chain was used for aid climbing on the Big Walls. Times have changed, and Daisy Chain began to be worn by newcomers to "ones" in the Crimea.

Times are for that and times to change, but Daisy Chain is not obliged to change. They haven't changed.

First of all, you should look at the instructions for Daisy Chain (Black Diamond). It says in black and white: “Daisy Chains are variable length tie-offs designed to support body
weight ONLY. DO NOT use them as part of your belay or
protection system. They are NOT designed to hold falls.”

And we use such a thing for self-insurance?

Now about durability.
For example, Black Diamond gives the following characteristics to its Daisy Chain:

1. Strength of intermediate stitching - 300 kg.
2. The strength of the entire loop is 1600 kg.

Generally speaking, this is very small. With a jerk factor of 2, more force can be developed. And how to achieve such a factor? It's very simple - you forgot to click the Daisy Chain out of the station, climbed, the Daisy Chain stretched, you fell off - that's factor 2.

A lot has already been written about Daisy Chain strength tests. For those who are inquisitive, I suggest that you read the article Glamorous self-insurance - a brutal blow!

The most important thing to take away from this kind of research is the realization that Daisy Chain is a very fragile thing and it would be a waste of time to trust it with your life.

Of course, you should not immediately rush to the treasured bag of equipment and throw away the daisy.
On difficult climbs, it really helps, jumar or convenient. What to do? There is an exit. Use in daisy chain as an ADDITIONAL lanyard. As the main one - a tie rope (or top belay or fastening to the station using, as shown in the picture).

And, of course, on difficult routes, especially with a large number of aids, you can’t do without a deyzik.
What do you need to remember when working with daisy chain?
First of all, you need to know that if you shorten the deyzik or fasten it incorrectly (as shown in the pictures), then this can lead to very sad consequences. In both presented cases, when the loops break (load of about 300 kg), the carbine will fly off the deyzik. The consequences are obvious.

For clarity, I suggest watching a video from Black Diamond:

At the end of the video, it is shown how to properly shorten the deyzik. But there are other ways:

Or another option:

There is another controversial point - how to fasten a daisy chain to the system.
The three most commonly used methods are:

1. Tie with a half-grip to the central ring. On the one hand, a half-grip reduces strength by up to 50%, on the other hand, as the bourgeoisie writes, clamping the central ring is also not good.

2. Binding with a half-grip to the belt and leg loops. There will also be a decrease in strength.

3. Fastening into a carabiner that connects the harness belt and leg loops. This option is preferable from the point of view of strength reduction: no knot - no strength reduction. But it requires an additional carabiner.

My recommendations:
1. Use deyzik as an additional self-insurance.
2. Use a tie rope as the main self-insurance at the stations.
3. Always on the end carabiner.
4. When climbing aids, avoid situations where a jerk with a factor of 2 is possible (remove the lanyard as quickly as possible from the previous point).

It might be useful to read: