How to choose a high-quality display for an iPhone 4. How the copy differs from the display of the original quality. General differences between the copy and the original display

Use this guide to replace your cracked or damaged display on your iPhone 4.

Everything necessary details and tools are included in the self-replacement kit, which you can purchase from our store.

Back panel - 3 steps;
Battery - 3 steps;
Motherboard - 13 steps
Speaker - 2 steps;
Display - 9 steps;
New Module - 1 step.

Instruments:

Pentagonal P2 Pentalobe screwdriver for iPhone;
Sucker;
Phillips # 000 screwdriver;
Plastic tools for opening;
Flat screwdriver 2.5mm;

IPhone 4 Screen Replacement Instructions - Back Panel

Step 1

Before disassembling your iPhone, make sure it is turned off.

Your iPhone 4 back cover can be secured with either two # 000 Phillips screws or two five-sided Pentalobe screws (second image). Check which screws you have and pick the correct screwdriver to remove them.

Remove the two 3.6mm Pentalobe or Phillips # 000 screws next to the power connector.

The five-sided screwdriver must be used very carefully as it can strip the threads on the screws.

Step 2

Press on the back cover with your fingers and pull to the top edge of the device.

The panel will move about 2 mm.

Step 3

Pinch the back cover with your fingers and remove it from your mobile, or alternatively use a small suction cup.

Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the back panel.

If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area next to the lens.

IPhone 4 Screen Replacement Instructions - Battery

Step 4

Remove one 2.5 mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector to the board.

Some devices may have two screws, one of which binds down the contact pad, which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

Step 5

Using a plastic tool, gently pry the battery connector cover up from the slot on the board.

Be very careful: lift only the battery cable, not the connector on the board. If you lift the connector, you can rip it off completely.

Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

Step 6

Pull the plastic tab to remove the battery from the device.

Do not remove the plastic tab from the device.

You may need to use a plastic tool to loosen the adhesive underneath the battery.

Take off pin clip from the device.

Before reconnecting the battery connector, make sure the contact clip (highlighted in red) is correctly positioned next to the battery connector.

Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all metal parts of the pressure contacts, as well as the connecting parts from grease (for example, using Windex). Grease from your fingers can interfere with battery performance.

IPhone 4 Screen Replacement Instructions - Motherboard

Step 7

Use a SIM eject tool (or paperclip) to remove the SIM.

This can take a lot of effort.

Remove the SIM card and its frame.

Step 8

Remove the following screws:

One 1.2mm Phillips screw
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw.

Remove the thin steel cover from the power cable.

Before assembly it is necessary to clean all metal parts of the steel lid from grease (for example, using Windex). Grease from your fingers can cause interference.

Step 9

Using a plastic tool, gently pry up and disconnect the power cable from the motherboard at the two short ends of the connector.

Step 10

Neatly slide the power ribbon cable off the motherboard and bottom speakers.

Do not use excessive force to move the cable. This can lead to its rupture.

Step 11

Use a plastic tool to pry the bottom antenna connector from the socket on the motherboard.

Step 12

Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.

Step 13

Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the motherboard:

One 2.3 mm Phillips screw;
Two 1.6mm Phillips screws
One 1.4mm Phillips screw
One 4.8 mm Phillips screw.

When assembling, start with a 4.8mm Philips screw and then work your way up to a 2.3mm screw. This is necessary in order not to confuse and not spoil the train.

Also make sure the 4.8mm Philips screw is set correctly when reassembling. It is the basis for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit for poor Wi-Fi reception after assembly.

Step 14

Use the plastic opening tool to lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna slightly away from the motherboard.

Neatly Pull the clamps of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the inner frame. This can be done with your fingernail, the tip of a utility knife, or tweezers.

Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the device. Be sure to make sure that the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches and the 4.8mm screws itself are not lost.... This is the main reason for the inoperability of Wi-Fi after assembly.

Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all metal parts of the steel cover that come into contact with the connectors from grease (for example, using Windex). Grease from your fingers can cause interference. The connectors themselves cannot be cleaned with a product!

Step 15

Using a tamper evident tool, carefully lift the connector rear camera up out of the socket on the motherboard.

Remove the rear camera.

Step 16

Take off small round white sticker(warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screw near the battery tab.

Remove the 2.4mm Phillips screw that was hidden under the sticker.

Step 17

Using the tip of the autopsy tool, carefully disconnect the following ribbon cables from the board:

Sensor cable (lift from the bottom);
Display cable (lift from the bottom);
Headphone jack / volume control cable (lift from above);
Top microphone / power button cable (lift from above);
Front camera cable (lift from top).

Step 18

Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the 4.8mm fastener next to the headphone jack.

When reassembling the device, this fastener sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield removed in step 13. If not tightened, the shield will be higher than desired and the back panel cannot be installed as in step 2. The shield must be flush with the headphone jack.

When assembling the motherboard, make sure the edge of the motherboard is under the circled fasteners, otherwise the screws will not fit.

When reassembling, make sure the small rubber pad is attached to the top of the motherboard. Without this part, the motherboard could damage the cables next to it.

Step 19

Carefully remove the motherboard from the iPhone, keeping in mind any cables that may get caught.

Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, at the top of the device), it is very fragile.

When reassembling, be careful not to cover the bottom antenna cable under the motherboard.

IPhone 4 Screen Replacement Instructions - Speaker

Step 20

Remove one 2.4 mm Phillips screw that attaches the speaker to the frame.

Step 21

Remove the Speaker from the device.

Before reattaching the speaker enclosure to the inner frame, make sure the four small EMI fingers are below the edge of the display frame.

Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all metal-to-metal contacts between the EMI pins and the inner frame, as well as the groove for the brass screw from grease. Finger oil can interfere with operation.

IPhone 4 Screen Replacement Instructions - Display

Step 22

Remove the following two screws holding the vibrator to the inner frame:

One 6mm Phillips screw
One 1.4mm Phillips screw.

Remove the vibrator from the device.

Step 23

Remove the Phillips 1.5mm screw securing the front panel next to the headphone jack.

Step 24

Remove the three 1.5mm Phillips large head screws along the side volume button.

Step 25

Remove the Phillips 1.5mm screw near the microphone.

Step 26

Remove the 1.5mm Phillips screw next to the power connector ribbon cable.

Step 27

Remove the three 1.5mm Phillips screws from the side of the SIM card.

Watch the washers under each screw.

Tip: The screws around the perimeter of the case can not be completely unscrewed, but only loosened by 2/3, this should be quite enough for the subsequent separation of the screen from the case.

Remove the 1.5mm Phillips screw next to the rear camera.

Step 28

Carefully insert the edge of the intrusion tool between the rubber frame of the front glass panel and the steel inner frame.

Do not try to insert the tool between the glass and the rubber frame.

Carefully bend the top edge of the front panel away from the steel frame.

Step 29

Slowly and carefully lift the top edge of the front panel away from the steel frame.

Continue pulling the front panel out of the steel frame until it slowly begins to peel off the adhesive under the Home button area.

Gently pull the bottom edge of the module away from the steel inner frame.

Be careful! If the Home button sticks to the front panel, you could rip its cable.

Do not turn the module over or disconnect it completely from the frame. This can damage the loop.

If the glass is cracked, removing the panel can cause the glass to bend, which can cause small fragments to fly off. Before doing this step, cover the front glass with plastic, then detach it over the trash can. Wearing safety goggles is also a smart move.

Step 30

Disconnect the ribbon cable and carefully remove it from the steel frame.

Before attaching the front panel to the steel frame, make sure the ribbon cable is not folded or stuck between the inner frame and the front panel. This can damage it.

When the front panel is installed correctly, the sensor cable and display cable should be in close proximity to each other, be the same length, and should just hang over the steel frame.

Make sure no cables get stuck between the screen and the bezel.

When replacing a module, you should remember that you may need to use a speaker grill and a clear plastic ring around the front camera from the old / damaged module. This will depend on the configuration of the new part.

iPhone 4 and 4s are very similar in appearance and almost indistinguishable. When replacing the display (screen) assembly, the question may arise, is the display suitable for iPhone 4S from iPhone 4? Are these displays compatible?

Display module(aka display in failure) for iPhone 4 and 4S consists of:

A display is a device that displays text and graphic information on the screen, i.e. picture
A touchscreen is a touch panel that responds to touch. Touchscreen (Touch - touch, touch, screen - screen.)
Mounting frame - this frame is glued to the display and with this frame the display is attached and fixed to the body of the iPhone 4 / 4S

The difference between the display module for iPhone 4 and 4S is this the difference lies in the frame of the mount.

In the iPhone 4 mount frame, the top corner retention tabs are offset, and in the iPhone 4S mount frame, the top retention tabs are symmetrically positioned at the corners.

All other components are the same and interchangeable. Those. the connection connectors (terminals and pins) on the iPhone 4 and 4s cables are completely identical and the screen can be connected to another model.

You can buy a display module without a frame, buy a mounting frame separately and glue (or re-glue) it to the display, but we do not recommend doing this. for this you need to make a lot of effort and the quality will be lower than the factory one.

Please note that the outgoing loops are connected to each other and if the contacts on the LCD loop (display, screen) are damaged, problems may arise with the operation of the sensor (touchscreen) and vice versa. Be careful and careful when repairing your iPhone.

Many people are interested in this question and now I will try to give the most complete answer. At the end of the article, I will provide photographs in which it will be possible to compare the image quality on copies and on modules of original quality.

What is a display module?

The display module is a display (matrix), a touchscreen, a protective glass and a plastic glass frame assembly, it looks like this: That is why it does not matter if your glass or the display itself is broken, the part changes entirely.

Copy

Display modules of the copy, also known as AAA or AAA +, by the way, everything else - A, AA and AA + is AAA or AAA + with minor defects. They are a display module that is entirely produced in a third-party factory in China, from the matrix to the glass and the frame.
The only plus of this display is its cheapness. The matrix in such modules is not original, but third-party production. This means that color rendition, contrast and brightness may be worse than on the original quality module. Usually such matrices are inferior to the original in screen resolution, that is, they are no longer Retina display.
The touchscreen (the coating that is responsible for the reaction to pressing the finger on the screen) in such modules is either on the matrix or on the glass. If it is on the glass, then if the glass is damaged, the touchscreen will no longer work. Any copy will show the touchscreen layout grid, small translucent stripes and squares; in general, this does not affect the perception of the image.
Protective display glasses that are installed on copies are not tempered and most often without an oleophobic (grease-repellent) coating, that is, they are less durable and it is more difficult to erase fingerprints and dirt from them. In general, I would recommend installing a copy in three cases:

Phone repair and its subsequent sale;
The unpretentiousness of the owner - that is, by and large, quality is not important to you;
You need a budget renovation.

If you are planning to use a phone and the quality is important, then it is better to look towards the display module of the original quality.

Original quality displays

They are known as Orig or Orig Ref. As we have already discussed in the article, the original displays supplied by Apple itself unfortunately do not exist, but there are models that are 95% close to this quality and you will not see any difference when using.
The origin of such displays is production lines in China. Everything is done, everything is in China;) On such displays, the original Retina matrix is installed. The Chinese take the matrices either from the suppliers of the displays themselves - LG, Sharp, Toshiba, or cut them from broken modules in which the matrix and touchscreen are not damaged. That is, the matrix and touchscreen are original.
Next, a protective glass is installed on the display. It's hardened and oleophobic, which means it's durable and just as easy to clean as the original. After that, a frame with fasteners is glued to the finished module. Then the display, after checking the quality, goes on sale.

The advantages of such display modules:

Strength;
Image quality;
Build quality.

The cons are their cost. But I do not consider this to be some serious disadvantage, since the difference in price between the copy and the original is only 1,000 rubles, it’s not even normal to go to the store :)
Therefore, if you plan to continue using the phone, the quality is important for you and the means allow, then it is better to install displays of the original quality. In any case, I would put myself a module of original quality.

Fair, not overpriced or understated. There should be prices on the Service website. Necessarily! without "asterisks", it is clear and detailed, where it is technically possible - the most accurate, final.

With the availability of spare parts, up to 85% of complex repairs can be completed in 1-2 days. Modular repairs take much less time. The website lists the approximate duration of any repairs.

Warranty and liability

Any repairs must be guaranteed. Everything is described on the website and in the documents. The guarantee is self-confidence and respect for you. A 3-6 month warranty is good and sufficient. It is needed to check quality and hidden defects that cannot be detected immediately. You see honest and realistic terms (not 3 years), you can be sure that they will help you.

Half of the success in Apple repair is the quality and reliability of spare parts, so a good service works with suppliers directly, there are always several reliable channels and a warehouse with proven spare parts of current models so that you do not have to waste extra time.

Free diagnostics

This is very important and has already become a good form for service center... Diagnostics is the most difficult and important part of the repair, but you shouldn't pay a dime for it, even if you don't repair the device as a result.

Repair in service and delivery

Good service appreciates your time, therefore offers free shipping... And for the same reason, repairs are carried out only in the workshop of the service center: correctly and according to technology, it can only be done at a prepared place.

Convenient schedule

If the Service works for you, and not for itself, then it is always open! absolutely. The schedule should be convenient so that you can be in time before and after work. Good service works both on weekends and on holidays. We are waiting for you and working on your devices every day: 9:00 - 21:00

The reputation of professionals consists of several points

Age and experience of the company

Reliable and experienced service has been known for a long time.
If a company has been on the market for many years, and it has managed to establish itself as an expert, people turn to it, write about it, and recommend it. We know what we are talking about, since 98% of incoming devices in the SC are being restored.
We are trusted and transferred by other service centers for difficult cases.

How many masters by directions

If you are always waiting for several engineers for each type of equipment, you can be sure:
1. there will be no queue (or it will be minimal) - your device will be taken over immediately.
2. You are handing over your Macbook to a Mac repair expert. He knows all the secrets of these devices

Technical literacy

If you ask a question, a specialist must answer it as accurately as possible.
So that you have an idea of what exactly you need.
They will try to solve the problem. In most cases, the description tells you what happened and how to fix the problem.

Below we have tried to outline the differences in the display quality classes as simply and clearly as possible. After reading this article, you can distinguish original iPhone display from the copy. This material is presented for informational purposes only and is based on our experience with Apple parts. The material contains real photos of the goods sold in our online store.

Advparts is not responsible for the quality and consumer characteristics of spare parts, and also does not guarantee the quality of spare parts purchased from THIRD PARTY organizations, based on the information read in this material.

There are 3 classes of displays in our store in total: Original removed, Original restored and AAA. Read more about quality classes in spare parts read

General differences between the copy and the original display.

From the user's point of view on replica displays:

worse color rendition and brightness (see photo below)
insignificantly worse speed sensor response, BUT false alarms are possible
the front protective glass is less resistant to damage (more often broken), when the top glass is broken, the sensor usually stops working
there may be sensor failures at low temperatures and in wet weather
worse or no oleophobic (fat-removing) coating

Why is iPhone screen copy cheaper?

A different technology is used to make copies.

Original (captured and restored): the original display and the sensor grid are assembled; a protective glass is installed on top.

AAA: display copy is made separately, instead of a protective glass, a touch glass is installed. Display and touch glass are supplied complete.

Where do the original display modules on the iPhone come from?

As you know, herself Apple does not supply components for the iPhone. Therefore, all original displays are removed or remanufactured parts.
Removed displays are available for iPhone 7 and newer. This is a 100% native display taken from a brand new device. Nothing different from your native display.
Remanufactured originals are produced in factories. Displays are shipped to factories with broken front windows and intact displays. On special factory equipment, the front glass, the frame, and, as a rule, the display backlight are replaced. The procedure takes place in a clean room, the slightest violation technological process leads to rejection of a large number of displays. It is impossible to carry out recovery at home.

How can you tell the original from the copy?

For iPhone 4 and 4S, the main difference will be the thickness of the glass in the area of the Home button (in the original, the glass in the Home area is noticeably thicker).

For iPhone 5, 5C, 5S and SE

Distinction 1 (required).

The thickness of the glass in the area of the Home button (thicker in the originals).

In copies in the area of the Home button under the glass (on the back of the display), there may be a special overlay that prevents the pusher of the Home button from falling.

Difference 2

Difference 3 (optional, depending on recovery technology).

The presence of the Apple logo in the upper left corner on back side original.

The absence of a rainbow bezel and logo is not an indication of a copy, BUT their presence indicates that this is the original display.

For iPhone 6, 6 Plus, 6S, 6S Plus, 7 and 7 Plus we sell original and AAA displays.

Distinction 1 (required).

The thickness of the glass in the area of the Home button (slightly thicker in the originals).

Distinction 2 (required).

The presence of the Apple logo on the display cables (both restored and removed). Please note that on iPhone 7 series displays, "apples" are on the closed part of the cable (adjacent to the backlight).

Difference 3 (optional for restored ones, depends on the restoration technology).

The presence on the original of the rainbow rim in the area of the light sensor.

Difference 4 (optional, depending on recovery technology).

The presence of the Apple logo on back side original display.

Difference 5 (mandatory for removed, optional for restored, depends on the recovery technology).

The presence of a grease-repellent coating. Oleophobic coating is usually present on original refurbished iPhone 6 and above displays, but this is not required.

Important! The absence of a rainbow bezel and logo is not an indication of a copy, BUT their presence indicates that this is the original display.

If you have any questions, you can contact us by phone, e-mail or through the feedback form.

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