Description of a man's business suit. Clothes and manners of a business man. Men's business style

Many men have to wear a business suit to work. This clothing is an indicator of good taste and respectability, so the choice of model should be given Special attention. We will figure out how to choose a men's business suit and accessories for it.

It must be said that history men's suit originates from ancient times, since for many centuries it was men who were engaged in all affairs, and the woman was exclusively the keeper of the hearth.

Initially, the costumes were lush, but uncomfortable. Men's clothing acquired a more familiar look towards the end of the 19th century, but then the costume consisted of many items. In addition to the frock coat, trousers and vest, it includes a top hat and seals.

Over time, fashion has changed, clothing has become more practical and comfortable. With the outbreak of the First World War, pomp and impracticality went aside, clothing became functional and more comfortable. Frock coats are replaced by a shorter version of clothing - a jacket. In addition, paramilitary uniforms are in fashion - jackets and riding breeches.

In the 1920s, patent leather shoes were at the height of fashion, and the checkered suit was gaining popularity. The next decade was remembered for the gangster "uniform" consisting of a black suit with white stripes with wide lapels, straight trousers and a wide-brimmed hat.

In the harsh 40s, many people were not up to fashionable frills, but after the end of the Second World War, elegant models with fitted jackets and a slightly extended shoulder line and trousers with cuffs became popular. But the colors were used calm, from the prints only a thin, inconspicuous strip was allowed.

Despite the rebellious nature of the 60s and 70s, the business suit for men remains extremely conservative. But in the 80s, suits of unusual colors came into fashion, of course, extreme finishes, like sequins were not used in business fashion, but the most unexpected colors are used.

Since the mid-90s, models have appeared in men's fashion that were previously only found in women's fashion. For example, narrowed down and slightly cropped trousers, narrow and elongated lapels on strongly fitted jackets. Non-traditional prints are used, for example, uneven stripes, jacquard patterns.

IN modern world more conservative solutions are in priority, the costume becomes more traditional and strict.

Business Etiquette

The sleeve of the shirt should be slightly longer than the sleeve of the jacket, the cuffs should protrude by about 1.5 cm.

Shirts should be chosen in plain colors, a thin striped print is allowed. Shirts with other types of print cannot be used. A shirt for a business suit is chosen light, but not necessarily white. Acceptable is a light blue variant, a light shade of tea rose, a light steel shade.

In winter, many men wear underwear under their shirts. But it should not be a T-shirt, as its collar will protrude under the thin fabric of the shirt.

It must be remembered that clothing reflects and emphasizes individuality, characterizes a business person as a person. The decision to hire depends on appearance applicant. If he is dressed inappropriately, then he can hardly count on success. The choice of clothes is determined by the field of activity and position: for example, the clothes of bankers are distinguished by conservatism, which is not welcome in creative circles.

"They meet by clothes, see off by the mind," says folk wisdom. Many people ignore this rule very often. However, consciously or unconsciously, we judge others by their appearance.

The service environment imposes certain requirements on the appearance of a business person. In the world of fashion, a certain concept has long been formed - "business suit". He, of course, takes into account the latest trends and fashion trends, but at the same time remains strict and conservative to a certain extent.

The appearance of a business person is one of the leading success factors, since for a potential partner it is the appearance (suit, hairstyle, attributes) that indicates the degree of reliability, respectability and success in the affairs of a particular businessman. Only those who are well dressed and combed, who have a sense of taste and proportion, are trustworthy.

In everyday situations, wear a carefully cleaned and ironed suit with a light-colored shirt and matching tie. It is best if the daytime work suit is gray, light gray, dark blue.

The cuffs of the shirt should be visible from the sleeves of the jacket for about one centimeter when the arms are lowered down.

During the day at work, a club style is quite acceptable. Most often it is a dark blue jacket with shiny buttons.

The collar of the jacket should fit snugly around the neck.

The collar of the shirt should be visible from behind a little more than one centimeter.

With daywear, it is not necessary to carry a handkerchief in the left breast pocket, but if you decide to wear it, it must be immaculately clean, i.e. it cannot be used as a regular handkerchief.

The handkerchief should be kept unfolded in a trouser pocket.

You can not put a pen, pencil, glasses, comb and other items in the upper outer pockets of jackets and jackets so that they look out.

In winter, as a rule, ties are tied in deep and dark tones, in summer - light and bright. It should be remembered that the dominant color of the tie must repeat the color of the suit. -

Socks must be black or blue, matching the color of the suit. Wanted: White silk scarf, white handkerchief in left breast pocket.

According to classic etiquette guides, a tuxedo is worn during dinner at home or at an informal dinner at the house where you are invited.

In any case, the full dress is not put on before 18.00.

The ring is practically the only piece of jewelry that a man can wear. But even the ring must have its purpose - it is either a wedding ring or a signet ring. In the United States, the wedding ring is worn on the ring finger of the left hand. All men's rings are worn on the little finger also of the left hand, so that it does not hurt during a handshake.

A man may also wear a gold tie clip, gold cufflinks, or a gold watch bracelet.

It should be noted that the main rule that one must strive to fulfill when choosing a business suit in all its components is the overall impression of neatness, accuracy and even some pedantry in clothes. This should make your partner think that you will be just as accurate in business.

Thus, we can use our image to achieve the most favorable impression on others at the stage of acquaintance, when there is no opportunity to show our intellectual and other abilities.

According to some studies, 55% of the impressions we make on other people are determined by what they see (skin and hair color, appearance, posture, facial expressions and gestures, facial expressions, the nature of eye contact); the remaining 45% of impressions are determined by what people hear (meaning of speech, its pace, voice pitch, speech clarity, pronunciation, etc.).

Of course specific situation requires appropriate solutions, but there are general ethical rules, adhering to which, we will be adequately perceived by others, and our image will work for our career and for the general positive image the organization we represent.

Even very high-quality, expensive and fashionable things can look tasteless if you do not comply with the condition of unity of style.

Usually clothes depend on the lifestyle and place of work. In industries such as finance, law, politics, accounting, consulting, formal attire is almost mandatory. Much more freedom is allowed in media or advertising.

A tie requires special attention in a man's suit. His choice depends on the color, pattern and fabric of the suit. Bow ties are only accepted on formal occasions.

A tie is not needed for a sports shirt, as well as for woolen shirts. Of course, the tie must be neatly and correctly tied.

For especially responsible and festive events, it is recommended to wear a white shirt. The tie can be any, but preferably not flashy colors. A plain black tie (if it is not uniform) is worn only in case of mourning.

In a formal setting, the jacket should always be buttoned up (the bottom button of the jacket is not fastened). In a buttoned jacket, they enter an apartment with friends, a theater, a restaurant, a meeting. For speakers from the stage, the podium, the jacket must be buttoned up. You can unbutton your jacket while sitting at a table or in the auditorium.

The desire to express one's individuality (and this can be done primarily with the help of clothes) and at the same time maintain certain standards requires finding the exact line between the desire to express oneself and conformity with the environment.

One of the most important accessories of a common business suit is shoes. Therefore, in no case should one forget about its quality - old sloppy shoes can spoil the impression of even a quite decent suit. Moreover, expensive well-groomed shoes can divert attention from cheap clothes.

If a person has a well-groomed appearance, then he seems to radiate a positive self-esteem, which automatically increases the chances of being highly appreciated by those around him.

The need to appear at work outwardly neat and well-dressed every day is due to the fact that colleagues and superiors tend to extend your outer neatness to working qualities, such as responsibility, decency, commitment and accuracy in business.

In addition, the observance of the rules of appearance etiquette speaks of a person's respect for the people around him.

The appearance of a business woman

If a talented man can make a career, even with an unsuccessful image, then for a woman it is almost impossible.

The key factors that make a positive impression on others are:

elegant clothes;

hairstyle;

thin makeup;

impressive accessories.

Of course, a fashionable suit is not yet a guarantee of a quick promotion, but if a woman is devoid of taste, her chances are zero. Practice shows that many women have no taste in choosing clothes.

The reason for this is the lack necessary knowledge. Usually women form their style by trial and error, which can be too much. Relying on the opinions of others is risky, as advice is given with pleasure, as a rule, by incompetent people.

A woman enjoys much more freedom in choosing the style of clothing, material and color of fabric than a man, whose clothes in most cases are of a uniform cut.

This allows a woman to choose such styles of clothing that best suit her individual taste and fit the features of her figure. At the same time, it must be remembered that a good style of clothing should emphasize the merits and correct the existing figure flaws.

A conservative suit has been and remains the main item of a business woman's wardrobe.

If you are going to an interview in a company whose business area is unfamiliar, a suit with a jacket without lapels should be dark blue or gray.

Business dress code rules for men seem to be stricter than those for women. But this is not due to some kind of gender bias, but to a smaller selection of toilet details that, in principle, men use in their wardrobe. In addition, in the male business style, unlike the female one, there is no jewelry at all, with the possible exception of expensive watches.

There are 10 rules for choosing clothes for men in a casual business style for workdays.

I. Men's business dress code involves the use of long-sleeved shirts under jackets and suits, even in summer. An “empty” sleeve and a bare wrist in a bell are extremely obscene! (Short-sleeve shirts are allowed only on vacation or at the service staff - without a jacket!)

II. T-shirts are required under shirts (this is a matter of both hygiene and decency - nipples and hair should not show through the shirt).

III. In the daytime, matching ties from the latest fashion collections for men in casual business style is extremely inappropriate. Playboy bunnies or the Venus de Milo can have the opposite effect; their time - evening, address - youth clubs.

A tie for a business suit should always follow the rule: it is darker than a shirt, but lighter than a jacket. (The intrigues of the fashion industry are not for serious people, and certainly not for daytime and work events!)

IV. The socks of a business person should be in the tone of trousers or shoes! In the official business style of clothing for men, shocking or contrasting colors of socks are unacceptable. In the world business relations the socks of a decent gentleman always cover the ankle high (no matter what low chair he sits on) and fit snugly against it (without pinching the leg, which is harmful to health).

v. In the cold season, business style for men also regulates hats:

  • a hat is worn only with a coat (in one tone);
  • caps and berets are worn with a raincoat;
  • fur hats with earflaps - with sheepskin coats;
  • knitted hats and baseball caps - with jackets.

VI. And how to dress a business man in the hot season? In summer, the shades of men's suits (even formal ones) noticeably brighten. The fabrics of such clothing for men in a strict style are becoming lighter - summer mohair, linen, cotton, strict denim.

VII. In the light of the sun and decency, shoes must also “brighten”! Light-colored suits with black shoes and shirts - Armani's "gangster" proposal made to men more than a decade ago (and inexplicably loved by Russian gentlemen and residents of the southern regions) - are not accepted by good tone in the business world.

A strict dress code for men regulates the selection of light and medium brown shoes for light suits in the warm season of the year, belts and cases to match them.

VIII. I would like to hope that true gentlemen do not have to be reminded of the importance of personal hygiene (but you should not abuse perfume).

As you can see in the photo, in the business style of a man, the neatness of the suit is always implied:

The hair and cheeks of a gentleman should also always be neat (even with long options - the hairstyle and beard are formed!).

IX. Never forget the little things. Watches, cufflinks, glasses and even lighters are best kept in the same style. Select cases and briefcases, shoes and belts among themselves in an ensemble: they should fit their owner in size and shape, as well as fit his wardrobe.

X. And what should a business man look like on Friday, on the eve of the weekend? On this day of the week, etiquette allows for a looser dress code, but elementary decorum should be adhered to.

On working days, men are quite free to choose and can use casual clothes, of course, personal status and professional responsibilities are important. Those options that sysadmins can afford, graphic designers or conductors are not suitable for educators, lawyers or bank account managers.

The formal style of clothing for men in casual ensembles allows for the presence of knitwear and the absence of a tie.

Checkered, herringbone, large striped suits, corduroy or linen suits, tweed and suede jackets are good at this informal level.

Shirts may have bright stripes or checks, may be darker or brighter than formal options.

Boots, respectively, from the same everyday topics— loafers, yachting shoes, moccasins.

Common clothes for men in a strict business style (with photo)

In the generally accepted business style of clothing for men, the dress code for formal events is also strictly regulated. However, not all official events daytime are held at a high formal level (such as inaugurations, solemn and anniversary meetings, opening conferences, forums, etc.). For formal events, invitations must be marked with dress-code:

  • Black Tie (Formal, Official)
  • Bb-Business Best
  • Btr-Business Traditional

The strict business style of men for Black Tie suggests:

  • Suits of a high level of perfection, made of very good fabrics - dark blue or dark gray, perhaps with very thin stripes.
  • Men's business style of clothing involves plain shirts - white, ecru, light shades of blue, gray, steel. No pocket! Double French cuffs are required. Cufflinks for a daytime event are only modest, concise.
  • Suits in a simple style are complemented by men with a spectacular tie made of natural silk - plain: blue, burgundy, dark mustard, etc. (but not black!) Or with small specks (preferably jacquard weaving). Diagonal ties are well suited for business formats.

Pay attention to the photo - a strict style of clothing for men allows single-breasted vests from the main fabric of the suit:

  • A handkerchief is welcome.
  • Shoes "Oxford" (less often "derby") on a parquet (leather) sole - varnish is possible, the color of the boots is black or maroon.
  • The belt is selected to match the boots.

Strict business style for modern men

Transitional time in business etiquette - 17:00-20:00. During this time interval, events of an average formal level, of a non-strict nature, are held, as a rule, on light solemn occasions: vernissages, presentations, premieres. The organizers expect guests to observe the rules of decency and a certain degree of elegance in appearance.

Dress-code marks typical for a business non-strict format:

  • Black Tie Invited (tie welcome)
  • Black Tie Optional
  • A5 (AfterFive-after five)
  • Semi-formal (semi-formal)

Dress-code marks of the strict Black Tie level (Formal, Official, Bb), which are typical for highly formal events, are almost never used during transitional times - at least until 19:00 - since events of such a strict format are extremely rarely arranged on this day. time interval.

For events from 17:00 to 20:00, a man has a large selection of costumes!

  • A perfect suit with all the important details (just sorted out above in the men's daytime Black Tie). There is also an addition in the colors of the costumes - more shades of blue and gray, brown is possible and drawings in stripes, both narrow and chalk - they are slightly wider, slightly shaded - like a trace of chalk on cloth.
  • Tuxedo - fully equipped.
  • Also in the modern business style of a man for the transitional time of the day, a classic club blazer is welcome - a dark blue double-breasted suit. This is a very fancy theme. (Color options are possible.) Pants for him are gray or dark beige (black is bad form!), Stripes are possible.
  • Velvet jackets always remain in active fashion, these are very beautiful options! A deep navy blue or chocolate brown jacket, paired with a matching shade of shirt, is always a win-win and elegant look for such festive, but not strict events.
  • Large selection of fancy ties. Straight, familiar styles for us - with foulard and paisley patterns or car anchors for a club blazer. Neckerchiefs and ascot ties.
  • And only for a tuxedo - a bow tie or a plastron - under the obligatory special dress shirt with a bow tie collar!
  • For a more romantic look, a modern man who prefers a business style of clothing can replace a tie with a vest and beautifully put the collar of a shirt - both with a suit and with a tuxedo, but with the latter - only in an artistic space!
  • In the business style of men for this time of day, shirts should be with cuffs for cufflinks. Moreover, double French (spectacular and dense) is preferable to single Viennese cuffs.
  • Oxford shoes, or very high-quality derbies, or excellent loafers, shoes are selected in a costume ensemble - various color shades look good at this "celebration of life" - mustard and burgundy.
  • And remember that without a pocket square in his jacket pocket, a man is not fully dressed.
  • In the absence of dress-code marks in the invitation (whether written or verbal), men can choose whether to stay in a daytime "work" suit or change into a more elegant ensemble - subject to all the rules of decency, indicated as "rules and requirements of etiquette" at the very beginning of this themes.

Clothing for men in a free business style

The time for formal events corresponding to 20:00 (or 19:00) is Black Tiel. For men, this rule remains the main one: a respectable suit (dark blue, dark gray) or a tuxedo.

The rules of "pure" Black Tie for men:

1. Costumes of a high level of respectability - dark blue or dark gray (not black!), Possibly very narrow stripes.

  • Suits are complemented with a spectacular tie (plain or speckled, or a jacquard medium-sized foulard pattern is possible). Diagonal pattern - only for daytime format!
  • Breast scarf.
  • Belt to match the shoes - "Oxford" on a parquet (leather) sole.
  • Casual business style shirts men should choose good quality, white or light shades, with French (double) cuffs for cufflinks. Cufflinks can be large and spectacular - masterpieces of jewelry art (unlike the events of the working day!).

2. Tuxedo, which requires:

  • Trousers with a single silk stripe. Classic tuxedo pants with a high waist, with a special belt - with fasteners, without belt loops (men really like this style - it slims, gives a taut silhouette, and is very comfortable).
  • A special dress shirt in white, with a small butterfly collar and double cuffs for cufflinks. Cufflinks are elegant.
  • A wide belt (cummerbunt, worn over the waistband of trousers, folds are oriented upwards) or a single-breasted vest (its lower button is not fastened).
  • A bow tie of the same color with a belt (black, dark blue, gray, less often burgundy - better without a pattern). Or a tie-plastron - it is worn only with a single-breasted vest - black or from the same fabric as the plastron.
  • The pocket square to the tuxedo is white, so the entire tuxedo ensemble is black and white. Or, in the colors of the scarf, they repeat the shades of the plastron (or bow tie, if you choose its color version).
  • Shoes lacquered boats or "Oxford" (preferably lacquer).

The business style of clothing for men has a number of features. It was created so that a man can look decent at work or a business meeting. Each representative of the stronger sex can choose an image from this style.

Today we will talk about how this style differs from others. We will see what clothes belong to the business style. What are some images for men. We will also discuss what fat men can wear and how they can hide their fullness.

Men's business style contains a minimum of things and accessories. All clothes are restrained and you need to pick up a few accessories for it. Watches are of particular importance in this image. They must be expensive, as they evaluate the taste of a man and his financial condition.

If a middle-aged man has a business style, then he should testify to the responsibility and reliability of a man. Such images must necessarily look neat and expensive. This style is not chasing fashion, it has only one goal, all things must be of high quality.

The attributes of this image are a shirt, tie and suit. Sometimes business attire for men can be without a jacket, but then you need to wear a vest. In some cases, you can just go without a jacket and shirt. When choosing a suit, it is important to remember that it should be comfortable and at the same time fit well.

Advice! The collar of the shirt should peek out from under the jacket by two cm.

Official

Official business style implies that a man must have a formal suit, shirt and tie. Such an image should be worn when going to a formal meeting. Sometimes it is also called business style. A man should not wear extra accessories, all clothes should be restrained and strict. This style will not tolerate experiments and unusual images.

Do you like formal style?

YesNot

Business casual

Business casual style is a little different from regular business style. A man who wants to have such an image must correctly combine 10 elements of clothing. This style allows the stronger sex to experiment. The peculiarity of business casual is that if a man cannot combine all the elements of clothing, then most likely he will look ridiculous.

What clothes are we talking about?

  1. Suit deuce. It should be of a plain and smooth fabric.
  2. . A classic shirt should fit perfectly on a man. Having this style, a man can take off his jacket, so his shirt must be perfect.
  3. Shoes. A pair of brown lace-up pumps is the perfect accompaniment for this look.
  4. Blazer. Under it, you can wear jeans and a turtleneck.
  5. . Such a sweater can sometimes replace a jacket.
  6. refer to casual business attire.
  7. perfect replacement for a shirt.
  8. Polo. This shirt is a must have for a man wearing this style.
  9. . You can tie under this image.

Although it may seem that casual is not the style of men's business attire, however, having a business look does not always mean looking formal. This style requires a sophisticated taste from a man.

Important! At different times of the year, business casual looks different.

Office

Office style is considered one of the most difficult. Each element of the image should ideally complement each other. Often, offices have a specific dress code that must be followed. Such looks may consist of a jacket and a light blue shirt. From time to time, the color scheme of the dress code may change.

It is important to remember that fashion trends do not always correspond to business style. Accessories in this case should be very discreet or completely absent. The image can be supplemented with a leather or suede shoulder bag.

Choosing clothes for obese men

When choosing clothes for overweight men, you need to remember that the most important task in their case is to hide all the flaws. To do this, you need to select clothes that are not very fitted and avoid things that visually enlarge a man.

It is very important that any clothing is the same size as a large man. No need to try to drag the figure. Try to choose simple models of costumes so as not to focus too much on your figure. Give preference to lightweight fabrics.

Expert opinion

Helen Goldman

Male stylist-image maker

Fat men need to replace the belt with suspenders.

Also, such men should choose shirts with a shark collar. As an accessory, you only need to buy large jewelry. They emphasize the strength of a man, which causes respect among others.

Shoes and accessories

Leather classic leather boots are perfect for a business look. This is a versatile shoe. Only a tie is able to decorate the whole image. If a man chooses it correctly, then he may no longer need to wear other accessories.

As an accessory, you can take a business-style backpack or briefcase. When choosing them, it is important to remember that they should not be too massive and crowded. Also, do not forget about cufflinks and a tie clip. Remember that a man's business-style hairstyle should fit the image.

Photo selection of fashionable images

To better understand what a business style looks like, it is better to look at a photo selection of ready-made images. You will see what options there are for this style, how to combine clothes and combine colors. Business style does not always have to have a formal suit, it combines different things of this style.




How to choose the right clothes?

In addition to the fact that all clothes should be of the same style, a man is obliged to pay attention to how she sits on him. Any properly selected clothes can hide all the flaws of a man. Therefore, try to decide which image is right for you personally.

Particular attention should be paid to accessories, as there should not be too many of them in a business style, but they play a key role. Also skillfully combined colors always testify to the good taste of the stronger sex.

Success in business depends on the competence of a business person, his professionalism, activity and many, many other factors. Some of them influence the achievement of the desired result directly and directly - knowledge of the matter, experience, but we are not talking about them now.

Indirect factors also affect success, and the appearance of a business person is precisely the factor that also determines the effectiveness of business ties, success in business contacts and contributes to the creation of the necessary working atmosphere.

Appearance and manners - this is what the business partners around him see and evaluate immediately, while the proposed transactions have not yet been discussed, the draft agreement is not yet on the table.

Each professional group people has its own unwritten code of behavior, manners, appearance - civil servants, actors, students, etc. Businessmen also have a certain style in dress and manners.

Watching a meeting of the board of directors, employees serving the exposition of their companies at the fair, business meetings, etc., one can note that the vast majority of those present are dressed in the "same key": approximately the same color of the suit, a similar pattern on the fabric of a tie, similar manners.

General characteristics of the style of a business man: conservatism (since the business sphere is almost not subject to random influences); moderation, i.e. there should not be too sharp color contrasts, excessively fanciful styles of clothes or shoes, etc.; impeccable neatness and tidiness, since a carelessly or crookedly tied tie, dirty shoes, wrinkled shirt give the impression that the wearer of such clothes is undemanding to himself or does not respect others. There is an assumption that he is also undemanding to himself and in the performance of contracts, and will also be disrespectful to the interests of partners in the business sphere.

The Western business world differs from the Russian one (among other things) in that when discussing contracts, transactions, etc. it takes into account how the partner is dressed, what are his manners. One detail, in the opinion of some, may be insignificant, for example, a stale handkerchief, a torn off button of a jacket, can negatively affect the outcome of negotiations.

A business man should look like:
confident;
solid;
business;
elegant;
inspiring confidence;
not devoid of taste;
reliable;
decent;
neat.

The main type of men's business clothing is a three-piece suit.

The quality of the suit fabric determines how long it retains its shape, how long the "arrows" on the trousers last. It is desirable that the fabric be made from a "dry" thread, i.e. strongly twisted. (Such a fabric remains dry for a long time when exposed to rain.) When choosing a suit in a store, it is enough to squeeze the edge of the product in your hand for 1-2 seconds; opening your hand, you see how wrinkled the fabric is: if it instantly took on its former form, i.e. if the thread is not crumpled, it means that the thread is well twisted, but if there is a wrinkle on the fabric (traces of creases), the thread is poorly processed, such a suit will look wrinkled by the end of the working day, and this gives the impression of untidiness.

The length of the floor of the jacket in a modern suit of the business world is up to the first phalanx of the thumb of the hand down.

Jacket sleeve length - up to the wrist.

Dark blue is more formal and therefore more formal than grey. Psychologists say that it is not remembered because it is neutral. Therefore, a dark blue suit can be worn more than once a week, accompanied by different shirts and ties. Another nuance of dark blue: it makes the complexion of its "carrier" more healthy, blooming, because it throws on the face a reflection of the color that is the component in blue - pink. This does not mean that a man becomes rosy-cheeked and looks like a peppy Boy Scout, no, he just looks healthier, which is important, especially if most of the stress is already behind him. labor day resulting in fatigue; in addition, the state of a cold or psychological stress from an unpleasant conversation that has just occurred with a colleague or management may not be the best effect.

Gray color is psychologically softer, "warmer"; a business man in a gray suit looks pleasant, friendly, conducive to conversation and communication.

There is one "secular" rule: the darker the color (the color of anything - clothes, furniture, etc.), the more aristocratic it is. This applies to a large extent to gray: a dark gray suit will look more expensive - regardless of the true price, and a light gray suit will look cheaper.

Separately, it should be said about the black color for a men's suit. This is the color required for evening business receptions and mourning ceremonies. The authors of modern Western reference books on business etiquette do not object to this. But opinions about whether the black color of the suit is acceptable for everyday business situations are very contradictory in the same sources. However, nevertheless, the scales lean more towards the point of view, which consists in recommending the use of the black color of a men's suit as a sign, a symbol of the solemnity of a business event, regardless of whether it is accompanied by positive mood(business reception) or negative (funeral ceremony).

For a business suit, colors such as burgundy, brown, swamp green, etc. are excluded, they should be left for clothing intended for leisure (club, country walk).

The color intensity of the suit fabric in winter is deeper, in summer it is less.

A suit made of striped fabric is allowed, but the stripe should not be too wide or sharp, contrasting.

Is it possible to wear a jacket from one fabric and trousers from another? Yes, you can, but you must definitely check how the jacket and trousers are combined with each other in color, pattern and texture of the fabric.

The striped suit makes the figure more slender, so it is preferred by those who have a clothing size larger than 54.

Plaid fabric can also be used for a men's suit, the requirements are the same - the cage should be even less noticeable than the strip.

On business men of the 90s, plaid suits are much less common than, for example, on business men of the 20s.

Boucle and tweed suits are allowed, however, such a suit is not worn in its entirety; a boucle or tweed jacket is required with trousers made of plain dyed fabric and smooth texture.

Here it is appropriate to note that in general the ability to combine in clothes not only color, pattern, but also the texture of fabric can be considered a talent.

A jacket, as an element of a suit, can be single-breasted and double-breasted - at will. A double-breasted jacket is usually preferred by fatter men, as it makes the figure slimmer.

Elements of sports style, such as patch pockets, are not allowed in a men's business suit; military style, such as shoulder straps; hunting and club style.

Modern business suits and even jackets made of velveteen (this is a fabric for recreation, sports, hunting), velvet, and leather are unacceptable. Note that the requirements for business clothing change not only from century to century, but sometimes more often; for fun, you can point to the business suit of the Marquis - a civil servant who holds the post of Minister of Finance at the court of Louis XIV: velvet camisole, velvet "culottes" ("panties") to the knee, white stockings, etc.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the issue of the technology of tailoring a men's suit. In world practice, it is considered very prestigious to wear suits made with a large proportion of manual labor. The fact is that the seam made on the arms (especially the seam that connects the jacket collar with the back and shelves, as well as the seam along the collar of the sleeve) is softer, better repeats the shape of the human body, which, as you know, does not have right angles and absolutely straight lines. The suit, in which a large number of seams are made by hand (on a mannequin, of course), fits well, "like a glove", and a person feels free in it, like in jeans and a jumper. However, the suit handmade it costs expensive. In addition to the high price, such suits are also distinguished by high quality - both fabrics and tailoring. Western image makers claim that such a suit can be worn for ten or even twenty years - subject to timely cleaning, periodic breaks in wear and repair of worn parts (we are talking about the lining and other internal elements suit).

We consider the requirements of business etiquette for modern clothing, without going into history and without trying to predict the future in this area.

Are slots appropriate on a business suit jacket? Yes. On it in different cultures there are different rules: the so-called English jacket - with two slots, the American one - with one slot, the European one - without faces at all.

The jacket is usually worn buttoned up, but the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is left open to allow some freedom of movement and comfort when sitting down.

However, in the latter case, the jacket can be unbuttoned altogether.

A double-breasted jacket is always buttoned up.

A business suit, like all the clothes of a business person, is in line with fashion, but moderately; extravagance in business attire, especially men's, is unacceptable.

Business suit trousers may have a cuff, but it may be absent - at the request of the "owner".

The length of trousers in modern business attire: in front, the trousers are pulled over the shoes with a small fold, in the back they reach the beginning or middle of the heel.

The crease on the trousers should be well ironed.

Trouser belt - only from genuine leather, dark color; with a modest buckle - no "lion" and "wolf heads".

A shirt (and not a shirt! - since, strictly speaking, the term "shirt" is unofficial, the norms of speech culture require the term "shirt") - made of thin cotton, sometimes with the addition of almost imperceptible synthetics - for less wrinkling, always light colors - white, light gray, light blue, light sand shade.

The color of the shirt, of course, should be in harmony with the color of the suit.

Collar - classic, traditional.

On a shirt, as well as on a jacket, elements of a sports or military style are also not allowed - shoulder straps, patch pockets with folds and coquettes; let's say, however, one modest patch pocket - usually such shirts have a logo (ie, a verbal trademark) of the manufacturer on the pocket.

The sleeve of the shirt relies on 1-1.5 cm to "peep out" from under the sleeve of the jacket.

An important element of clothing is a handkerchief. It should be, like a shirt, in light colors - white, pale gray, etc., but in no case "farm" colors - deep blue or red, in a bright cage.

A second handkerchief (other than the one intended for immediate use), spotlessly clean, is kept as a backup "just in case". It can, if necessary, be offered to a woman, it is convenient for them to remove a mote from their eye, etc. However, it should also be changed periodically, because, even when unused, the scarf becomes stale after a while.

A tie is that element of clothing that practically does not solve any functional problems.

The color (or colors) of the tie should be in harmony with the color of the shirt and suit.

A pattern on a tie is desirable, a pattern of a geometric nature - a strip of different widths, polka dots, small squares, etc.

Since the tie is the most striking and therefore noticeable detail of the toilet, let's talk about the drawings in more detail.

The most reliable decision in choosing a pattern on a tie is to choose a solid color tie. The fact is that such a tie is suitable for any shirt and any suit. Therefore, it is advisable to have more plain ties in your wardrobe - blue, dark red, dark gray, light gray, etc.

Recently, a tie with polka dots has been very popular. However, there is one subtlety: this pattern looks more elegant if the peas are placed on the fabric not strictly "along the line", i.e. each pea is approximately (not exactly) the same distance from the others. And the second subtlety - peas should be small: the smaller, the more sophistication and sophistication in the pattern of the tie fabric.

A tie with diagonal stripes of a color that is in harmony with the main field of the tie is very good for a business suit.

Classic patterns on a tie are also appropriate, such as rhombuses, squares, circles.

The approximate width of the tie (on average) is the same as the width of the side of the jacket, i.e. if the sides of the jacket are wide, the tie should not be narrow, and vice versa.

The length of the tie is determined by the fact that it must cover the belt buckle of the trouser belt.

Ties with floral patterns, newspaper text, figures of people and animals are undesirable and generally unacceptable - such ties are appropriate on vacation.

There is such a requirement: in terms of color intensity, a jacket is in the first place, a tie is in the second, and a shirt is in the third.

How many suits should a modern business man have? As much as you like! There is only a lower limit - at least three: gray and blue can be recommended for everyday wear, and black for special occasions. However, with such a small number of suits, you can expect them to wear out quickly, and in order to avoid the impression of worn out clothes, you will have to buy new suits more often, which ultimately will not allow you to save money on a business wardrobe.

In our opinion, if we take into account the pace and rhythm of modern business life, the need for frequent transport movements, long waits at airports due to flight delays, climatic and weather disasters, as well as the almost endless working day of a businessman, the number of business suits should not be less ten - for all seasons. And this is a minimum, since for some time some suits are in cleaning, others have come off the buttons or they are simply tired of their owner.

Since trousers are known to wear out and become not quite "fresh" before the jacket, it is reasonable to purchase a suit with two pairs of trousers, and one of them may be slightly different in color intensity or even be a different color, but in harmony with the color of the jacket.

There is a rule that is usually followed in Western business circles: a businessman, a business person should not appear at work in the same suit for several days in a row - it is desirable that this does not happen even two days in a row - otherwise one of the colleagues may say the assumption that he spent the night away from home!

Shoes - low shoes, color - only black. Dark brown is allowed, for example, in summer, with a gray suit. Shoes - only with laces (no buckles, "tongues" and "velcro"!), the sole is thin, leather or substitute, but always without a welt, which is appropriate only in street shoes. Business men's shoes can be fashionable, but should not contain trendy elements; in general, a certain touch of conservatism is desirable, as in the whole appearance - as already mentioned earlier.

Not allowed in the business world are shoes made of suede, patent (it is for evening business receptions), crocodile and snake skin.

Socks are the most important element of clothing. Their color always repeats the color of the shoes, and the color of the shoes is known to be black.

A color pattern on socks is unacceptable, it can only be textured.

Outerwear should match the suit in color and texture of the fabric so that at the moment when a business person takes off his raincoat or coat, there is no disharmony in clothes.

A hat (maybe a cap) is fashionable, but moderate.

A scarf is that element of the wardrobe that can be bright (white, red), but must be in harmony with all other clothes, but can also be very modest in color. A beret as a headdress in business attire is unacceptable, as is a hand-knitted scarf.

A raincoat or coat can also be fashionable, but should not be trendy.

In outerwear, as well as in a suit, features of a military, sports, etc. are unacceptable. style.

Color for outerwear is preferred gray, black, blue.

Umbrella - black.

Accessories - a bag, a business card, a wallet, a folder or a case, a case for glasses, etc. - preferably made of genuine leather, but not snake, crocodile, etc.

Color accessories - black, dark gray, no bright colors.

The ring should be expensive, massive; if it is not possible to have an expensive ring, in no case should it be replaced by a cheap one - it is better to do without a ring at all.

Note that the wedding ring is not an ornament, it is a symbol of family status.

Separately, let's talk about cufflinks and a tie pin.

Strictly speaking, they are not decorations, as they carry a well-defined functional load. However, being decorated artistically, they also serve as decorations.

It is recommended that the cufflinks and tie pin form a single unit in design, i.e. set. They should not be too large, pretentious, they should be made only from natural materials - silver, gold, mother-of-pearl, precious, semi-precious and ornamental stones (diamond, amber, tiger's eye, etc.).

Cufflinks and pins made of plastic, etc. are not allowed. materials imitating natural stones.

Perfumes and cosmetics used by a business man must be of the same name (one "line"); smell should be kept to a minimum, even if these are products of an expensive and fashionable perfume company.

The hairstyle of a business man is in fashion, but in its moderate expression; for example, if it is a hairstyle with long hair, then it should not be longer at the back than the top edge of the shirt collar.

An earring (earrings) in the ear is absolutely unacceptable for a business man.

Modern Business Etiquette also negatively refers to the beard and mustache as elements of appearance.

Some firms even provide for this in the Rules. internal regulations: "Wearing a beard and mustache is allowed only if this is due to a certificate from a doctor (stating that daily shaving is contraindicated for the skin). But in this case there are restrictions - the beard must be neatly trimmed, and the tips of the mustache should not be lower than the corners of the mouth" .

The requirements of cleanliness, accuracy, tidiness are imposed on the hands of a business person. Nail polish is not allowed.

Clothing for business receptions, as well as everyday business, is distinguished by conservatism and adherence to traditions.

For all types of receptions starting before 19:00 (working breakfast, breakfast, cocktail, etc.), a one-color suit of a soft tone is recommended; the closer to the evening, the darker the suit.

For business receptions, the beginning of which is scheduled for 19 hours (or later), it is customary to wear a dark-colored suit; it could very well be a black suit.

More elegant clothes for an evening reception - a tuxedo; this is usually indicated on a separate line in the prompt. Shirt - white, tie - soft colors or bow tie. The color of the tie should be in harmony with the color of the suit.

Shoes - black low shoes, for a tuxedo - patent leather shoes.

If the reception takes place in the summer, then dark colored shoes in a color in harmony with the costume are allowed for a one-color suit of soft tones.

It should also be recalled that the color, density and texture of the suit fabric must correspond to the season and the climate of the region.

Sporty style

A business man, in addition to the usual daily activities and participation in business receptions, goes in for sports and attends various sporting events and clubs.

For this, clothes are used: a week-end suit and a sports-type suit.

A week-end suit consists of sports-type trousers (made of velveteen, other loose fabrics - boucle, tweed) and a jacket or pullover that replaces the jacket. A shirt - also of a sports type - colored, in a cage or with another pattern. A tie may be absent, since it is not very compatible with such a shirt, but if you try, you can pick up a tie (which is not worn with business clothes) in the form of a narrow lace, leather, etc. The shirt can be replaced with a light sweater called a "turtleneck".

Shoes in this case, in addition to leather, can be suede, velveteen; the style of the shoe is sporty (for example, the line of moccasins on the shoe emphasizes its non-business nature). Clothing for the week-end is widely used for trips out of town, excursions and other events held during business meetings and negotiations.

In the same cases, a sports suit can be used.

The jacket of such a suit has sporty style, for example, four patch pockets with pleats, belt-loop at the back; the fabric is quite thick (boucle, tweed, corduroy; leather is allowed).

Trousers - from a single-colored fabric, in harmony in color and pattern, i.e. smooth texture. The vest is monophonic, because the jacket is made of loose and variegated fabric. But the vest can be replaced with a pullover or jumper. If his collar is high enough and fits snugly to the throat (turtleneck) - a shirt is not required. In other cases, a shirt of harmonizing colors is worn, but not necessarily only white or light; the shirt can be saturated shades. The tie is missing.

A trouser belt can have decorations in the form of metal and other patterns on the belt itself, as well as in the form of a massive or figured buckle.

Shoes - sports, it was mentioned above. Socks - to match the shoes, but a pattern on the socks is allowed, and not only in the form of stripes, but also in the form of figures and similar decorations.

The week-end suit and sports suit are widely used in business life, as business meetings and negotiations are often accompanied by sports events- playing golf, tennis, etc., trips on excursions, country picnics, barbecues (shish kebabs), etc.

In the appearance of a business man, the following are unacceptable:
short socks that leave part of the leg exposed when the person sits cross-legged;
a stale handkerchief;
half-torn buttons;
crumpled suit;
stale shirt;
crookedly tied tie;
uncleaned shoes;
hand-knitted vest;
hand knitted scarf;
a stale ribbon on a hat;
bright, flashy colors of clothing details;
color contrasts in clothes.

In conclusion, it should be said about the style of clothing.

Style is the most elusive, difficult to define, but the most important characteristic not only clothes, but also the whole appearance. You can give the following definition of style: style is the correspondence of the color, texture of fabric, style and similar details of a business suit to the nature of the ongoing business event (meeting, work at an exhibition, banquet), weather, personal characteristics of a person (height, weight, eye color, hair etc.), in addition, the individual parts of the toilet (shirt, suit, raincoat) must be in accordance with each other - in style, style, color, fabric texture.

 

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