Camera for photography. The wisdom of photography. Important characteristics when choosing

Andrey Mikhailov

This article will focus on the choice of photographic equipment for shooting mammals and birds using methods of hiding and shooting from cover. Out of consideration remains the choice of equipment for shooting small animals on a scale larger than 1/5 of natural size and for automatic shooting by the method of alerting the camera (photo trap).

The optimal format is 24x36 mm (35 mm film, type 135). Serious equipment for smaller formats is represented only by digital (so far more expensive) camera models for the same lenses designed for the 24x36 format.
Larger formats - 4.5x6, 6x6 and 6x7 cm - are attractive in that they allow you to get the same format of a print or printed illustration with a smaller increase in the slide / negative and, as a result, get better quality. However, this equipment is on average twice as heavy and noticeably more expensive. Compared to narrow cameras of the same class, wide cameras tend to be slower to shoot, harder to focus on, most lack autofocus, longer time intervals between pressing the shutter release and actual shutter release, and so on. etc. For photography, the use of wide equipment makes sense only when shooting from a tripod with flashes and when it is possible to get closer to the subject than is usually the case when shooting on a narrow film. The fact is that the size of the image on the slide/negative depends only on the ratio of the focal length of the lens and the shooting distance, and therefore, in order to take advantage of the wide format, you need to take a 500 or 600 mm lens instead of a 300 mm lens, or position it 1.5-2 times closer to the subject.

In general, a 24x36mm SLR camera with a telephoto lens is mandatory in the initial set of equipment for photography, but a wide one is not needed - you can think about it later, as the technique of shooting from cover improves.

When purchasing equipment, amateur photographers usually start with a camera with a standard lens and only then start thinking about choosing interchangeable lenses.

In the case of photography, this leads to a sad situation when there is a camera with the features you like, but there is no lens compatible with it that would allow you to use these features when shooting a distant moving object, which is an animal in the wild. At the same time, differences between imaging lenses matter more in terms of image quality implications than differences between cameras, which, although offering different levels of convenience, offer in principle the same ability to capture the image produced by a lens on a camera. film or digital media.

For successful photo hunting for animals and birds, at the initial stage, you need a lens with focal length 300 or 400 mm and aperture 4 or 4.5 for cameras of the 60s-70s, or at least 5.6 for the latest models. Such a lens with good optical characteristics and in a modern frame that supports the necessary functions (depending on the type of camera - internal focusing without moving the entire optical unit, small minimum shooting distance, jumping aperture, electrical or mechanical transmission of the aperture value to the camera for correct operation automatics, automatic setting of the aperture value by the camera's automatics, autofocus, the ability to manually sharpen without turning off autofocus), as a rule, more expensive than the camera itself, sometimes much more expensive. In addition, the lens may be harder to find, especially if the lens-to-camera interface is not one of the latest systems that are used by professionals.

Examples of quality-balanced lens-camera systems:

The situation is especially sad when the camera is designed only for lenses that allow the lens aperture to be set by the camera's automatics, and the correct lens for it cannot be found. In this case, when shooting with a non-standard telephoto lens auto mode the exposure setting is completely lost. This applies, for example, to cameras Kyiv-15, Canon AE-1, Canon AE-1Program, Canon T-50.

Taking into account all of the above, it would be most correct to choose a pair of telephoto lenses at once - a camera (taking into account the capabilities of the flash systems existing for this camera, which require a separate discussion), or, in the absence of such an opportunity, simply purchase a good lens, and then to it camera. A standard lens with a focal length of 50 mm or a standard zoom of 35-70 or 28-80 is not needed at all for photography. Of course, a hunter will also need a lens for shooting landscapes and, possibly, road genre scenes, but, in my opinion, it should not interfere right choice main lens. In general, if the choice of equipment for photo hunting is severely limited by funds, the purchase of a standard / wide-angle lens can be postponed for later or replaced with its simplest counterpart. All modern cameras in a professional configuration are sold like that - without a standard lens.

So, for starters, you need a lens with a focal length of 300 or 400 mm and aperture of 4-5.6, depending on the camera. Why exactly these parameters? As the focal length of the lens increases, the sensitivity to camera shake during shooting increases rapidly, and it becomes extremely difficult to take sharp pictures. Objectives with a focal length of 500 or 600 mm, if they are fast enough, as used professional photographers for sports and wildlife photography, the 500mm/4.0 and 600mm/4.0 lenses weigh between 4 and 6 kg, making them unsuitable for stock photography, require a heavy tripod, make it difficult for the photographer to move around when working in the field, and are usually very expensive (new from $6,000 to $10,000, used older models from $2,000 to $4,000). Faster lenses (500/8.0, 600/8.0) will require shooting at slower shutter speeds, which will make getting sharp shots almost impossible for a beginner hunter. After gaining the necessary experience, you can experiment with focal lengths of more than 400 mm. Lenses with a focal length of less than 300mm will not produce an image large enough to capture a quality image from distances that require shooting even from a well-placed shelter, except in some particularly favorable places on the outlying islands and in national parks Africa and North America.

Zoom lenses have one advantage - greater flexibility in framing, the ability to include more or less in the frame from the same shooting point, everything else is a minus.

Zooms tend to be slower and have slightly worse image quality than a prime lens, especially at the maximum of its zoom range. And if 300 or 400 mm is the maximum focus for a zoom, it will almost always be used in photography at this maximum focus. In all my years of hunting photography, I can think of two or three situations in which I used or could use zoom not at maximum focus. Such situations are well remembered, and for sure almost every photo hunter will easily remember a couple - but that's all.

With a larger maximum focus, the zoom will again be heavy and expensive. However, both Canon and Nikon have long discontinued their zooms longer than 400 mm, and now you can’t find them - almost all of them have been remade by filmmakers for their cameras.

All zooms, with the exception of some very professional and very expensive designs, have significantly worse resolving power (the ability to draw thin parallel lines on film, such as hairs of fur or feather beards, so that they are distinguishable in the picture) at a long focus is much worse than at a short one. , and than lenses with a fixed focal length for equipment of the same class. According to a 1999 Photo & Video magazine test, the difference in image quality between telephoto primes and zooms at the long end of their focal length range is significantly greater than the difference between "native" optics from mainstream SLR manufacturers and optics from independent cameras. manufacturers. In addition, inexpensive autofocus zooms usually lack a tripod mount, a manual focus ring that is too small and inconveniently located, and there is no way to manually override focus without turning off autofocus.

And the compositional advantage of zooms on closer inspection is not so comprehensive. It is no coincidence that students entering the department of photography are recommended to shoot with a lens with a fixed focal length. Let's take a look at the different aspects of composition and zoom's role in them:

- selection of the main object plan size and cropping in accordance with this without moving the photographer along the optical axis of the lens, i.e. it seems that there is no need to run closer and further - yes, the zoom helps;
- finding the shooting point from which the object is projected onto the optimal background - zoom can only help in combination with active "footwork".
- inclusion in the frame of a larger or smaller background area on a more or less large scale with a constant scale of the main object - zoom can only help in combination with active "footwork";
- choosing a higher or lower shooting point - zoom can only help in combination with active "footwork" (and / or hands, when it comes to crawling or climbing);
- choosing the moment of the best mutual arrangement of moving objects - zoom can only help in combination with active "footwork".

Thus, it turns out that, contrary to what it seems at first glance, the advantages of the zoom can be used mainly when the photographer can arbitrarily approach the subject and move around it, which is usually not the case in the case of photo hunting.

A few more points to consider when choosing a lens are secondary, but not in all situations they will be secondary.
The lens must have a clamp for mounting on a tripod. Mounting on the camera with a long heavy telephoto lens is not suitable - if the camera tripod socket does not break out under its weight, then each touch on the focusing ring will shake the entire structure, making the frame blurry and scaring animals, and not every tripod head can withstand if the center of gravity located far from the attachment point. The clamp is useful not only for shooting from a tripod from cover, but also for fixing the lens on the butt of a photo gun when shooting using the method of hiding.
It is desirable that the front of the lens does not rotate when focusing, but rather does not move longitudinally. This will make the subject less intimidating. Less mass moving parts when focusing will increase the speed of focusing (both automatic and manual), especially with large, heavy lenses. In addition, autofocus lenses make the rotating front part lighter, so AF lenses with a non-rotating front part inspire more confidence in terms of mechanical strength.

Over time, for shooting from cover, you can get a separate lens - faster and / or longer telephoto (and therefore heavier).
For some shooting situations from cover, when it is difficult to predict the size and number of subjects (for example, at a watering hole or in a feeding area), zoom can also be useful.
But at the beginning of a creative journey, a hunter usually spends more time in the search and hiding mode, and the first lens should be suitable for both hiding and shooting from cover, without losing quality. This versatility will be relevant later, when shooting in remote places where you have to carry the equipment on yourself.

When hiding in open spaces where there is a lot of light, for example, on the banks of water bodies, and when shooting from a shelter near openly located, but hard-to-reach nests and perches, situations arise when a very telephoto lens (600 or 800 mm) would be useful, albeit with aperture only 1:8 or 1:11. It is hardly worth buying a separate lens with such a small aperture and carrying it with you all the time for such cases, but you can carry a teleconverter in addition to the main lens, which doubles the focal length (and halves the aperture). This inexpensive (or not very expensive compared to the main telephoto lens) optical device is installed between the lens and the camera if necessary. In addition to reducing the aperture ratio, it also reduces the quality characteristics of the image, however, both the quality of the image created by the original lens and the quality of the converter are important. Therefore, you should not expect that a cheap converter combined with a cheap zoom will do a miracle. However, a good converter combined with a professional prime lens can produce quite decent shots in situations where the subject would simply be too far away without it.

Having paid due attention to the main component - the lens, you need to pay attention to several features that are essential when choosing a camera.

The camera does not have to be the most professional model right away, because. electronics become obsolete very quickly, and unless you are an experienced photographer with extensive experience with SLR cameras, you will not need many of the features of the most professional model for a long time, and during this time it may have time to become obsolete. In favor of professional models is their greater mechanical strength and better protection from atmospheric conditions - this is important in the field. On the other hand, a camera for photography should not be even the most entry-level:

- It should be possible to manually set the exposure with a shutter speed range of at least 1/15 to 1/1000 sec.
- If there is automatic exposure, then it should support "creative" modes (at least aperture priority, and better if shutter priority).
- If the camera is autofocus, it should allow manual selection of the autofocus mode (one shot / servo) and manual selection of one active sensor if there are several.
— It is important that the camera viewfinder shows full frame or a frame within the boundaries of the slide frame, otherwise you will constantly encounter the problem of “extra legs” - the appearance of distracting details that break the composition at the edges of the frame.
- The viewfinder should be bright enough for the selected lens, especially if we are talking about a lens with aperture 5.6. Please note that the use of extension rings or a teleconverter will additionally darken the image in the viewfinder.
— The shutter release should be soft enough to avoid unnecessary shaking at the time of shooting and the resulting blur.
— There must be a socket for the release cable, mechanical or electric.

When shooting on two types of film (negative and slides, or color and black and white, of different sensitivity), you will need a second camera, which must be fully compatible with the first, that is, all lens functions must work with it. It is desirable that the control of both cameras is the same, so that the different position of the buttons does not confuse you at the crucial moments of shooting, when everything is decided by a split second.
In addition, when traveling long distances, be sure to take at least two cameras with you in case one of them fails, so that one malfunction does not disrupt all shooting.

Recently, along with SLR cameras that shoot on film, digital cameras that can compete with them in quality and price have also appeared. mirror models using the same lenses. Many photographers who spent thousands of dollars a year on film have already switched or are switching to digital. This process is currently limited, in addition to retooling costs, by the fact that for many editors it is still more convenient to view two dozen slides on a light table than to open two dozen eighteen megabyte files on a computer and try to see their contents on a monitor. And before talking about the application digital cameras for photography, it should be noted that for an amateur who shoots less than 100 films a year, this is an expensive pleasure, and investing the same money in a quality lens and shooting on slides will certainly give better results.

It is no coincidence that we are talking about slides. All over the world, nature photographers, if they have not switched to digital, shoot on slides. And not only because the editors want it and are technical requirements for printing. Looking at a color negative, it is much more difficult for a photographer to evaluate his results (the optimal exposure for the reproduction of the play of light and the depth of shadows, the color reproduction achieved, the subtleties of the captured expression of “faces”, the effect of the location of color spots on the perception of the composition, etc.). Continuous printing of controls leads to significant costs that negate the advantage of cheap negative film and deserve better use. And operator settings printing machine can generally nullify all the tricks of the photographer in the field of exposure and color reproduction.

In addition to the basic equipment, for photo hunting you will need some additional photographic accessories and expendable materials: stock or shoulder rest for handheld shooting, tripod, cable release, shooting tent, batteries and some other things.
When shooting at night or in a dense forest, flashes are also required.

Depending on what means we have at our disposal, you can choose equipment from one of three technical and price groups:

- M42 - Mostly Soviet and GDR equipment from the 60s - 80s

Threaded lens mount (M42). Push-pull jumping aperture or, more often, lenses without jumping aperture at all - in the latter case, the aperture ring may need to be turned by hand during each “focusing - shooting” cycle. In the best models - exposure metering through the lens, but automatic exposure, as a rule, is absent. You can adapt an old lens from a pavilion camera with a homemade tube. No autofocus...
Price range: lens + camera from 30 to 300 US$

- Equipment with manual focus 70s - 80s

Bayonet lens mount, jumping aperture. On the best models of lenses - internal focusing, which allows you to aim from infinity to 3 meters with a few light movements of the little finger of your left hand, while the hand itself holds the lens steadily. On the best camera models - several modes automatic installation exposure, and at the same time the ability to manually set all parameters individually, automatic flash exposure with metering through the lens, motor attachments (from one and a half to 5 frames per second) ...
Price range: lens + camera from 300 to 2000 US$

— Modern autofocus systems

Price range: lens + camera from 400 to 12000 US$

1. Types of cameras
2. Important Features when choosing
3 Canon EOS 750D
4 Canon EOS 700D
5 Canon EOS 100D
7. Pentax K-70
8. Nikon D3300

IN modern world few people buy Wrist Watch in order to use them as a time indicator - a smartphone always at hand will do for this. A similar situation happened with cameras - why buy a separate device if modern mobile phones do the job just as well?

But there is separate category consumers that today and will continue to prioritize stand-alone cameras, namely photography enthusiasts, professionals and beginners. For the latter, we have prepared this article, in which we will try to understand the question: which camera is better to buy for a novice photographer?

Camera types

First, let's define the types of existing cameras:

Soap dishes. The advantages of these devices include their low cost and compactness, and the disadvantages include narrow, limited functionality and the inability to change optics.

Mirrorless(system) with removable optics. It is easy to understand that these cameras differ from the previous ones in the possibility of using a third-party lens.

Mirrored. Manual settings and a high-quality matrix, interchangeable lenses and excellent shooting results in any conditions with the necessary skills - all this you get by sacrificing the compactness of the camera and paying a substantial amount for it.

It is the last category of cameras, namely DSLRs, that today's article will be devoted to. We remind you that the purpose of this material is to help the reader in choosing a camera for a novice photographer, and therefore, before advising a list of cameras, we will consider what parameters you should pay attention to when choosing your first camera, and what mistakes should be avoided. Let's get started.

Important characteristics when choosing

First of all, you need to look at the following parameters:

Matrix size. The matrix will have the main influence on the result of your cooperation with the camera. A microcircuit consisting of many light-sensitive elements can bury all your hopes for high-quality pictures if you don't pay enough attention to it. We do not recommend taking a device with a full-frame matrix, which is equipped with equipment for professionals, and we advise you to start with more modest solutions with a partial-frame (cropped) matrix.

Matrix Resolution- the second key indicator, but you should not choose a camera solely on the number of megapixels. It must be remembered that a resolution of over 16 megapixels is required for ultra-large format images, and therefore may not be useful for your tasks at all.
Sensor sensitivity or ISO operating value. Another indicator to think about before buying a camera. If you still don’t know what kind of shots and under what conditions you plan to take, then we advise you to choose a DSLR with the highest possible ISO value - it will help to make images obtained in low light of sufficient quality.

Manual control. Since we are looking for a camera, albeit a beginner, but a photographer, then you should not have a choice - only manual control. Correctly set the aperture, shutter speed, white balance - the first thing a photographer who takes his first steps should learn with his own hands.

Video Capability. Now almost all DSLRs are equipped with this option, so there is no question of any overpayment for the ability to record videos, and this option will never be superfluous.

Size and weight. Seeming at first glance, the secondary nature of this item can be misleading. It is likely that you will often have to wander for hours on difficult routes with a camera around your neck - it is worth taking care of whether you can withstand this or such inconveniences will force you to return earlier than planned. Although the highest quality photographic equipment tends to be both the largest and heaviest.
Comfort and ergonomics. This paragraph rather includes the general feeling of working with the camera. It happens that a great camera just does not fit in your hand or the buttons on it are not located in the way that would be convenient for you. Do not break yourself - it is better to find the device that suits you personally.
Price. Last on the list, but not least. We're trying to find best camera for beginners, and therefore the models that will be considered belong to the budget category. You don't have to spend huge sums on top-of-the-line equipment once you have the idea of becoming a photographer. Not only will you still not be able to use a small fraction of the functionality of top devices, but corny you can quickly lose the desire to shoot, and the camera will lose a lot in price.

All these points are extremely important for choosing the right technique for you. But there is one more rule, ignoring which will inevitably lead to unsatisfactory results and negative emotions from shooting on new camera- an even more important component of photographic equipment than the “carcass” of the camera itself is optics. Therefore, remember: if you have laid a certain budget for a new DSLR, then both the device and the lens must fit in it. And now let's look at the best offers of 2017 in the segment of good, but inexpensive SLR cameras.

Canon EOS 750D

Characteristics:

Sensor type: CMOS APS-C (crop)
Sensor resolution: 24.2 MP
Mount type: Canon EF-S
Maximum video resolution: 1080p

TO strengths This camera undoubtedly includes a magnificent 24.2 megapixel sensor, which is enough for a novice photographer. The image quality will be difficult to spoil even with a strong desire for it - high-performance and reliable system autofocus will help with this. Built-in Wi-Fi with NFC - all the same as in the more expensive models of the Canon family, including a great swivel LCD display.

What is a little frustrating is the battery capacity, for long trips to places where sockets are not available, you will have to take care of buying an additional battery, but a novice photographer is unlikely to immediately master such long photo hunting sessions. A good camera for beginners - a “carcass” will cost 30,000 rubles, you can find good deals on the market with a kit lens of about 35,000 rubles.

Canon EOS 700D

Characteristics:

Sensor type: CMOS APS-C
Sensor Resolution: 18 MP
Mount type: Canon EF-S
LCD display: 3", 1,040,000 dots, swivel, touch
Continuous Burst Duration: 5fps

Very similar, but older and, accordingly, budget model. Visually, it is almost impossible to distinguish it from the 750D, and therefore you will again get best-in-class ergonomics and an excellent LCD display, in this segment Canon outperforms Nikon competitors in these aspects.

The disadvantages should immediately include an outdated sensor, dated back in 2010, and much inferior in performance to more modern counterparts. A professional will easily distinguish between pictures taken on this and more modern model, but a beginner will need a lot of time and work before he achieves such heights. And therefore, as a starting device, this is a good choice. This model costs 30,000 rubles already complete with a lens, but if you plan to use the first camera long time, then it’s worth adding a little and acquiring a more modern generation Canon.

Canon EOS 100D

Characteristics:

Sensor type: CMOS APS-C
Sensor Resolution: 18 MP
Mount type: Canon EF-S
LCD display: 3", 1,040,000 dots, swivel, touch
Continuous Burst Duration: 4fps
Maximum resolution: 1080p

And this is perhaps the best choice for those whose finances are severely limited. At the time of its appearance, this camera was the smallest DSLR in the world, which also aroused the sympathy of miniature female photographers.

The sensor here also does not shine with manufacturability, but for the first DSLR it is quite good. All branded Canon bonuses are present here, and a smaller number of buttons on the device and slightly trimmed functionality will be more beneficial for a beginner.

The quality of the images, of course, cannot compete with colleagues with 22.4 or 24 megapixel matrices, but we remind you that it will take time for your eye to learn to catch the difference. But the price is no doubt pleasing - for 25,000 rubles you can buy a camera complete with a kit-lens and immediately be ready to shoot. True, it is worth remembering the battery capacity, it, like the camera, is quite small. Best Option under budgetary constraints.

Pentax K-70

Characteristics:

Sensor type: CMOS APS-C
Sensor resolution: 24.2 MP
Mount type: Pentax-K
LCD: 3", 921,000 dots, tilting
Continuous Burst Duration: 6fps
Maximum resolution: 1080p

Pentax understands that they are secondary in the market of camera manufacturers, and therefore they focus on value for money, which will undoubtedly please novice photographers. All-weather camera protection, which Canon and Nikon offer on expensive professional cameras, is offered here for a reasonable price.

Users note the excellent autofocus system, which at first makes it much easier to work. The disadvantages of the camera stem from the name of the manufacturer - a very limited set of lenses will be available to you. In general, this camera, in terms of the available functionality and the proposed additional features, is the most productive of the list, and therefore its price, about 45,000 rubles per “carcass”, should not be surprising.

Nikon D3300

Characteristics:

Sensor type: CMOS APS-C
Sensor resolution: 24.2 MP
Mount type: Nikon DX
LCD: 3.2 inches, 921,000 dots
Continuous Burst Duration: 5fps
Maximum resolution: 1080p

Probably the best camera on the list. The sensor is comparable to the brand's more expensive enthusiast models, and the absence of an anti-aliasing filter makes the image crisp and sharp. Especially good for a beginner, this camera has a built-in tutorial that will help you learn the basics of photography.

The disadvantages include the lack of a built-in Wi-Fi module and a swivel display, which Canon models boast of. The camera can be purchased from 28,000 rubles for a “carcass”, which is a very good offer for its characteristics.

We hope that thanks to this article it will be easier for you to choose a camera for a beginner and enjoy photography, and perhaps make this art your profession.

Rarely does anyone do photography these days. But in vain. In the old days, photography was a very popular hobby, although not every amateur photographer could really engage in it. A special design of a Zenit SLR camera, a lens with a very large focal length and a butt, like a gun, was called a photo gun. All this was packed in a fairly large wardrobe trunk and weighed several kilograms. Yes, and this photo gun cost oh, how expensive.

Photohunting is a very exciting and interesting thing. Especially bird photography. This is the topic that our today's article will be devoted to.

First of all, it should be said that birds are sensitive and shy creatures. That is why you will have to be patient. We also recommend that you take spare charged batteries for your camera with you on a photo hunt and insert a high-capacity memory card into it. Or maybe even take a spare card. You will have to shoot a lot. Why a lot? Didn't you guess? The bird will never pose for you. You will have to take pictures, adjusting to her behavior. And that means taking lots of pictures. In order to choose the best one later. Well, if, as they say, one of two or three hundred shots taken will be useful. Moreover, useful does not mean ideal. Useful - it's just a picture that passed, so to speak, the first round of the competition. Some preliminary casting.

Which camera is best?

A reflex camera for bird hunting, as you understand, is more suitable than a compact camera, in other words, a soap dish. The reflex camera is much more perfect, it has better quality optics, which is important for this type of photography - after all, almost always in the process of processing images, they have to be cropped significantly.

A lens for shooting birds needs, of course, a telephoto lens. Its focal length must be at least 350 millimeters. Well, if you don’t have such a lens yet, then you shouldn’t make a tragedy out of this. Photoshop will help you cut off everything superfluous in the frame and leave only the most important thing - the bird itself.

If you don’t have a DSLR, and you are the owner of just a “soap box”, you shouldn’t be very upset either. Compact cameras usually have very large zoom ratios. True, there are a few downsides. The first is that the image quality is worse due to the small matrix. The second - usually soap dishes do not have a viewfinder. And the display is very difficult to watch the birds. In conditions of strong lighting on the street - we photograph birds on the street - the image on them is almost invisible.

How to set up your bird camera

Small and mobile birds, well, for example, sparrows or titmice, need to be photographed at a fast shutter speed. 1/800 second or less. Birds that are larger - crows, for example, or pigeons - are not so nimble, they are less mobile. They can also be photographed at a shutter speed of 1/125 second. But do not forget that if you shoot in shutter priority mode, then the camera's automatic camera will automatically increase the aperture size in order to even out the exposure. And this will inevitably lead to a decrease in the depth of the sharply depicted space.

If, however, you decide to shoot birds with a slow shutter speed, then in order to avoid blurring the image, you will have to mount the camera on a tripod. And don't forget to turn on the image stabilization mode. Otherwise, lubrication will be inevitable.

Everything is ready? Taking pictures!

In order to take up photo hunting for birds, it is not at all necessary to get out into the forest or equip a serious expedition to hard-to-reach and exotic places on our beloved planet. We do not want to shoot parrots in their natural habitat, but our beloved sparrows, pigeons, wagtails and other birds living next to us on city streets, parks and squares. Then you, perhaps, will go to Africa. And you have to start at home. Exotic birds can also be photographed at the zoo. When shooting at the zoo, try to choose such shooting points so that bars of gratings or mesh cells do not fall into the frame. Well, at the very least, keep their presence to a minimum. These elements spoil such pictures very much. In some cases, the almighty Photoshop will help you in this matter. Learn to remove unnecessary and disturbing things from the frame. You can do this with cropping, that is, trimming everything superfluous around the edges, or you can do more serious retouching of the image. Read other articles about this.

Well, if you still decide to do real photo hunting, take pictures of birds in their natural environment, then, as we said today at the beginning of this article, you will have to stock up on a lot of patience. And turn on the full power of your creative thinking.

Before you start photographing birds, observe them carefully. Look at how they move, how they behave. Try to learn their habits. Perhaps look at photographs of these birds taken by other authors. Read something about the birds you are going to photograph.

Having prepared in this way, proceed to the actual shooting. First of all, you will need, of course, to find a bird. Doing this is sometimes not easy at all. Having found the subject, wait for the moment when the bird gets used to your presence, will not pay attention to you special attention. It might be a long wait. And it is also possible that your expectations will not be crowned with success at all. The bird will fly away... Get used to it from the very beginning. We already warned you about this today.

Here you go. Did you wait? Has the bird calmed down? Used to you? Let's move on to the next step. Choosing the most interesting and advantageous shooting point. Have you chosen? Everything can be removed. Press the release button!

If you decide to photograph a bird in flight, then shoot at a fast shutter speed. In this case, the bird itself will be clearly depicted in the picture, and the background will turn out to be blurry.

Those amateur photographers who have a “Sport” mode in their device can be said to be lucky. In this mode, the camera automatically turns on shutter priority. That is, you set the shutter speed manually, and the automation selects the aperture for it.

If you are not working compact camera, but a mirror image, then it is best to photograph birds, as we have already said, telephoto lens. In this case, we recommend that you turn on the tracking autofocus mode (Al Servo). This mode automatically adjusts the focus in the event of a sudden change in the position of the subject, in our case a moving bird. For those photographers whose cameras do not have such a function, we can recommend using a little trick. Focus your camera lens at a certain distance (in this case, it would be better to mount it on a tripod) and ... wait. Wait until the bird decides to respect you and sits on the exact branch you focused on. Yes, of course, in order to shoot like that, you need to have enviable patience. Well, what to do? As they say, for whom is it easy now? From the very beginning we said: photographing birds is a difficult and troublesome business. But it's interesting, right?

In the old days, when we were all young, Soviet amateur photographers were especially famous for the “Photosniper” kit, consisting of a rifle butt, a Zenit camera and a long-focus lens “Tair-3FS”. The thing was expensive, heavy and terribly inconvenient to use. Nevertheless, "Photosniper" was in steady demand. He still needed to be "gotten". This kit appeared on free sale only in the early 80s, when the quality of Soviet cameras decreased so much that most experienced amateur photographers switched to German-made equipment - Praktika and Pentacon cameras.

I remembered "Photosniper" just to talk about the most interesting genre of photography - animalistics, shooting animals in wild nature. We used to call this genre photo hunting. A good word - there is absolutely no aggression in it, as in the original word "hunt".

For most of us, photography is associated with shooting with a telephoto lens from a long distance. But it is not so. Three types of creative photography can be attributed to photography at once. Namely, photographing distant objects from a great distance and using long-focus optics. Macro photography - photographing wildlife objects from a minimum distance with magnification and using special optics that provide maximum sharpness and image detail. And underwater photography of the inhabitants of the seas and freshwater reservoirs.

We will not talk about underwater photography now - we will put it out of the brackets, since this type of photography requires special equipment and equipment, as well as special skills. Let's focus on just two types of photography - shooting distant live objects and macro photography.

Photographing wild animals and plants in itself is extremely exciting. Remember how you shot luxurious tropical flowers, outlandish succulents, a park squirrel that is not at all afraid of people, an impudent beach cat during a trip to the sea (for some reason, there are plenty of them in Egypt, but in Turkey, on the contrary, you need to look) . All of this is photography. Unintentional or purposeful, but without the use of special equipment.

It is this holiday example that convincingly shows that a bulky “Photosniper” is not needed for photo hunting. No special photographic equipment with expensive optics is needed either. An ordinary amateur compact is enough - if, of course, photo hunting is only a passing hobby or an opportunity to grab a picture of wildlife along the way.

It is a completely different matter if photography has fascinated you. And you don't mind focusing on this hobby. Then you have a direct road to a photo store to change an old camera or supplement it with a good camera for photography.

But first, a disclaimer. Not only cameras with long-focus optics are suitable for photography. Let's not forget macro photography. Photographing small flowers and insects at maximum magnification is no less exciting than photographing birds or forest animals in their natural habitat. And there are no less difficulties. Insects are just as hard to get to get a good picture as a hunting squirrel. A bee, fly or butterfly is even more difficult to photograph because these insects rarely stay still. They are constantly moving. And we need to "persuade" them to freeze for a few seconds in a spectacular pose. But what a result!

So - there are no universal devices for telescopic shooting (that is, for shooting distant objects) and for macro photography. Here "either-or". Or hyperzoom, a real photo gun (only without a stupid stock). Or a "photomicroscope", a camera with a lens that can focus on an object located half a centimeter from the front lens.

But compact cameras, even hyperzooms - cameras with zoom lenses of increased magnification - are far from universal, according to manufacturers. A zoom lens gives the best picture at the "short end" - at minimum focal lengths. In other words, the zoom works better as a short throw lens than as a long throw lens. Therefore, a kit that exhausts all the needs of a photo hunter will be a set of a camera and three or four interchangeable fixed-focus lenses (that is, lenses with a fixed focal length). It would be nice to have a wide-angle “pancake” (a lens of minimum physical dimensions with a minimum focal length) in the kit of optics for an amateur who is keen on photography. A lens with a "normal" angle of view (that is, in the value given to a film camera - 45-50 mm). 100mm (again, in the value given to a full-frame film camera) “portrait lens” is a macro lens with increased image sharpness (cold focus) and the ability to focus on nearby objects. And "telephoto" - a lens with a focal length of 135 to 300 mm (in the value reduced to the film).

Which camera and, accordingly, which brand of optics to choose? Which camera is more convenient to shoot on a photo hunt - a SLR or a compact with interchangeable lenses? Or will it be limited to hyperzoom with a rigid lens?

There is no single answer. It is believed that the SLR is universal and most convenient for photography. But it is not so. Working with a reflex viewfinder requires sharp eyesight. themselves SLR Cameras bulky and heavy. The optics for them, especially the long-focus ones, turn the photo hunting tool into a “portable howitzer”.

If you do not strive for uncompromising image quality, then the capabilities of a compact camera may be enough for your eyes.

What does uncompromising image quality mean? What does it give? Possibility to print pictures in maximum resolution on paper of exhibition formats. But if necessary, print a picture very good quality You can also from a 2-megapixel original. But this need arises extremely rarely, if at all. In most cases, we have enough screen resolution - to view pictures on a computer monitor or household TV.

In general, the value specifications photographic equipment is greatly exaggerated. There is no doubt that shooting a flying bird with a full-frame SLR camera with a long-focus “gun” is easier than with a modest amateur compact. But technology does not solve the main problem.

What problem are we talking about? About the choice of angle. How do we shoot wildlife? Birds - from the bottom up. Forest animals - from top to bottom. And you need to shoot from the plane in which these creatures live.

A flying bird, taken from the height of its flight - in profile - looks like a rare trophy for hunting. And taken from the ground - a banal photograph, of which there are millions. The same goes for, say, a hedgehog. To take a spectacular, interesting picture, you need not be too lazy to lie on the ground. And to contrive not to scare the animal with its presence. Let him look straight into the lens. Here it will be a real portrait of a hedgehog!

Macro photography has other problems. good shot a close-up of a bee or a flower will only work if the photographer manages to focus. The minimum depth of field is important - to get the effect of a three-dimensional image. This is the first difficulty. The second is lighting. Leaning over the object, we shade it with ourselves and our camera. And thus distort the natural light picture. The picture is lifeless, artificial, deliberately staged.

There are actually more problems than you might think. Photohunting is a very difficult genre. But you just have to start. And the first thing to do is to try the possibilities of your trusty old compact that was with you everywhere you went. Try to shoot bugs and dragonflies with it by using the automatic macro mode. Point the lens at the flying bird. No big deal if it doesn't work. Not the gods burn the pots.

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