Olympus OMD 10 mark 2 reviews. Review of the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II mirrorless camera: junior premium. Digital noise and ISO
The camera that will be discussed in this article is the newest in the OM-D line of mirrorless cameras, although it is no longer a new product. We decided to test it so as not to lose sight of this important model. It belongs to the third generation of the younger model E-M10. Its undeniable advantage is its lightness and compactness, especially when combined with a kit pancake-type zoom lens. This form factor is perfect for taking pictures while traveling, on a city walk or on a country picnic. If necessary, you can install almost any optics on the camera, and not only branded ones.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12‑40mm f/2.8 PRO Settings: ISO 6400, F5.6, 1/50 s, 24.0 mm equiv.
The Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III is equipped with a sensor with the same 16 megapixel resolution as many more expensive models in the line, it has the latest generation processor, and it can shoot 4K video. However, the cost entry level usually there is less for a reason, a reduced set of functions is assumed here and technical equipment. It will be interesting to find out what these limitations are in this model, whether they affected the quality of shooting and how much.
Design, ergonomics, control
The E-M10 MARK III's design combines metal and composite materials, but the body feels solid and well-built. Despite the very small protrusion at the front, the camera lies securely and comfortably in your hand; you are not afraid of dropping it. When turned off, when the kit zoom lens M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm 1: 3.5‑5.6 EZ Pancake is installed, the device is almost pocket-sized (of course, if it’s a jacket pocket). When it is turned on, the lens moves forward approximately 25 mm.
The E-M10 Mark III is available in two traditional Olympus mirrorless body options: an all-black body, austere and unobtrusive, and an elegant, classic silver-black body, complete with a silver lens.
The 3-inch LCD screen has a resolution of 1.04 million dots, which makes it possible to comfortably frame a scene and fairly accurately assess the quality of the picture. It can tilt down 45 degrees and up 100, which allows you to move it slightly away from the body and get a horizontal position. This screen mobility ensures comfortable shooting at different heights - from ground level, from the waist, and when holding the camera above your head.
The E-M10 Mark III has a touch screen, which makes many functions convenient. So, when viewing footage, you can scroll through and zoom images, when setting up the camera, you can tap to select parameters in the quick menu, filters and special functions, and when shooting, you can select an autofocus area, focus and shoot by tapping the screen in the right place.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 6400, F3.5, 1/60 sec, 28.0 mm equiv.
The latter can also be done unnoticed, “from the belly”, by turning the screen to a horizontal position.
The second way of framing is through an electronic viewfinder with not the highest today resolution of 2.36 million dots and diopter correction. It displays all the same information as on the LCD screen: the effect of the settings is immediately visible, the main shooting parameters are shown, and auxiliary tools can be displayed (grid, electronic level, histogram, focus peaking).
The OM-D E-M10 Mark III is equipped with a built-in flash. It is located above the lens and is raised and retracted manually. To raise it, use the power switch, and to lower it, press it with your finger from above.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 800, F4, 1/60 s, 15.0 mm equiv.
Like many compact cameras, it uses a combined battery and memory card compartment. The tripod threaded socket is not located far enough from its cover - the dimensions of the camera do not allow anything else. Therefore, when shooting from a tripod, the compartment will be blocked by the tripod platform.
On the top panel of the case, most controls are located on the right, in range right hand: shooting mode dial, shutter button, two control wheels, video recording button and reprogrammable Fn2 function button. The power switch is on the left, so there is no way to turn on the camera while holding it with one hand. There is also a quick access button - depending on the shooting mode, it opens a context menu with settings, a list of filters, scene programs, and more.
In automatic mode, this button calls up the shooting tips function. It will be very useful for beginning photographers who do not yet know how to adjust brightness and color rendition, blur the background, or freeze motion.
Another reprogrammable button - Fn1 - is located above the thumb rest. All other camera controls are located on the rear panel. Their functions are strictly defined.
As in the older models of the OM-D E-M family, the most important settings are regulated by two control dials. One of them is combined with the shutter button.
Functions, settings, interfaces
Story programs
The camera offers six main scene programs, each of which has several more precise options that are best suited for typical shooting situations.
Effect filters
Effect filters available in the ART position of the selector dial will help you give your photos an unusual look right during the shooting process.
Advanced Photo Mode
The camera offers an advanced photography mode that combines several creative functions. To access it, a separate AP position is allocated on the mode dial. The list includes the following functions: Live Comp (real-time collage), Live Time for shooting fireworks and night landscapes with very long shutter speeds, multiple exposure (two frames), HDR, shooting without sound, panorama, perspective distortion correction, exposure and focus.
Interfaces
Our camera has only two interfaces - micro-HDMI and micro-USB. They are located under a flexible plug on the right side of the case. The micro-HDMI interface allows you to display photos and videos on a large TV screen. The USB port can be used to connect to a computer or printer, as well as to update camera and lens firmware. Unfortunately, you won't be able to recharge the battery through it.
The E-M10 Mark III is aimed at amateur photography. This is evidenced by the lack of a microphone input and headphone output, which will not allow you to record sound when shooting video with studio quality and control the recording process by ear. For audio recording, only stereo microphones are provided, built into the top panel.
Camera in action
First, let's talk about the camera's readiness for shooting and other speed indicators. The camera's turn-on time is within one second, during which the whale zoom lens also has time to extend. There is no noticeable shutter lag at all.
Focusing
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12‑40mm f/2.8 PRO Settings: ISO 200, F5.6, 1/200 s, 68.0 mm equiv.
The Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III uses contrast-type autofocus. The focusing area covers almost the entire frame area and is divided into 121 (11 x 11) zones. In addition to the option using all zones, focusing is also provided for a group of nine zones (3 x 3) and one AF zone. In these two options, the area can be moved to the desired location using a navigation pad or touching the screen.
Autofocus is fast and accurate in most cases. This is true for daytime photography outdoors, for well-lit rooms, and for concert photography.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 R Settings: ISO 1250, F4.9, 1/160 s, 178.0 mm equiv.
The exception is either situations with very low lighting, when the subject does not have contrasting details, or when both the subject and the background have equally contrasting details. For example, when shooting umbrellas of dried plants against a background of trees, the autofocus system experienced difficulties, but as soon as we moved the AF frame to a stem against a background of snow, the plant in the frame instantly became sharp.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 R Settings: ISO 200, F5.6, 1/500 s, 184.0 mm equiv.
The camera focuses well and accurately when shooting close-ups.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 1600, F5.6, 1/30 sec, 28.0 mm equiv.
The image sensor is large enough to effectively blur the background (when using the whale “pancake” it remains readable and recognizable) and obtain a shallow depth of field.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 400, F5.6, 1/40 sec, 42.0 mm equiv.
Continuous shooting
Continuous shooting is performed in two modes: fast and slow. In the first case, the speed is approximately 8.6 fps, in the second - 4.8 fps. There is one important limitation to remember here: when using high-speed mode, focus, white balance and exposure are set based on the first shot in the series. That is, such serial shooting will allow you to capture the phases of movement of an object that is located at approximately the same distance from the photographer. But if the distance to it is constantly changing, then not all frames will be sharp, but only those that fall within the depth of field. Therefore, it makes sense to shoot at a closed aperture.
In our example with a fast skier, shot in series with high speed with an aperture of f/5.6, only the first three frames were relatively sharp.
Memory buffer
Successful continuous shooting requires a sufficiently large memory buffer. IN technical specifications E-M10 Mark III shows measured data using an SDHC UHS-II memory card. In this case, you can record pictures in JPG until the memory card is full, and in RAW - up to 22 pictures without reducing speed. Please note that support for such cards is a professional feature.
We carried out our measurements with the more common SDHC UHS-I Class 3 card, which supports write speeds of up to 40 MB/s, by removing the dial of an electronic watch.
E-M10 Mark III / OLYMPUS M.14-42mm F3.5-5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 800, F3.5, 1/60 s, 28.0 mm equiv.
In our case, without reducing the continuous shooting speed (8.6 frames/s), it was possible to take 37 pictures in JPG, then the speed decreased to 5-6 frames/s. 10 RAW versions of images were recorded while maintaining the speed, then it dropped to 2 frames/s. When recording pictures directly in JPG and RAW, it was possible to take a quick series of 9 pictures, after which the speed also became equal to 2 frames/s. That is, when using a modern fast card and shooting in JPG, it will be possible to capture the phases of a fairly long dynamic event.
Autonomy
The manufacturer claims that it is possible to shoot up to 330 frames on a single charge of the standard BLS‑50 battery, if you shoot at 50% when cropping on the LCD screen (Live View) and use the image stabilizer. In practice, these data were confirmed at an evening photo shoot, where I photographed using the screen almost all the time. However, we must remember that if you keep the camera in the cold, the battery capacity quickly decreases. It is better to have a spare battery in a warm pocket, and if you are going on a long trip, then a couple of batteries will not be superfluous.
Practical shooting
Evening shooting in the city
The festive illumination of the New Year's city is a great opportunity to take a lot of good pictures and at the same time test a number of camera functions.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 800, F4, 1/60 s, 28.0 mm equiv.
Auto mode and special functions
At first, like most amateur photographers, I set the mode dial to “Auto” and started shooting without thinking about the settings.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 2000, F5, 1/60 sec, 25.0 mm equiv.
The automatic system correctly selects the exposure and does a good job of white balance in difficult lighting conditions, but it plays it safe by setting shutter speeds that are short enough to ensure that blur is guaranteed. Because of this, of course, the ISO increases, which inevitably increases the noise of the picture. So, to ensure a shutter speed of 1/60 of a second, the camera set ISO 2000, and quite noticeable digital noise appeared in the night sky. Often the automatic system raises the light sensitivity to 4000-5000, if it is not limited by the Auto-ISO setting.
Does the device have some simple function that allows you to take higher quality night photos? Yes! This is one of the options for the “Night Shot” story program - “Handheld Shooting”.
Unlike other versions of the program, this one allows you to not use a tripod. The camera takes a series of photos and combines them into one resulting photo that is higher quality than any single shot. Even when using the same ISO as in auto mode, this program produces a much more accurate picture, with virtually no digital noise and good detail.
We must pay tribute to the automation: when there is quite a lot of light, the auto mode produces a picture that is almost as good as that obtained in the “Handheld Shooting” program.
Another problem with night photography is the prohibitively high contrast caused by very bright lighting. Another special feature that can come in handy here is HDR. When using it, the camera also shoots a series and collects information into the final shot. HDR is capable of restoring information in the lightest areas, but sometimes later you want to work with color rendition - it turns out to be more restrained than in auto mode.
Image stabilization
Olympus mirrorless cameras are famous for their built-in sensor-shift stabilization. In the OM-D E-M10 Mark III model, it is five-axis, that is, it compensates for vertical and horizontal vibrations of the camera, as well as its tilts and rotations around its axes.
The real advantage of such a system is best felt during evening and night shooting. To reduce digital noise, experienced photographers shoot in manual mode at slow shutter speeds to reduce the ISO value to almost a minimum. A good stabilizer allows you to do this without a tripod, shooting handheld. Let's check ours.
I started shooting with a camera complete with a kit zoom lens for the first time at safe shutter speeds, and then gradually made them longer and longer.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 R Settings: ISO 1600, F5, 1/25 s, 132.0 mm equiv.
It quickly became clear that a shutter speed of ⅛ second could easily be used at any focal length of the whale pancake.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 1000, F5.6, 1/8 s, 28.0 mm equiv.
Emboldened, I began to further lengthen the shutter speed, trying to reach a value at which ISO 100 would be enough for shooting. And such a shutter speed turned out to be a whole second! Of course, to get clear pictures at such a shutter speed, you had to concentrate hard.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 100, F8, 1 s, 74.0 mm eq.
However, if you shoot from a non-standard angle, for example, from bottom to top, holding the camera at waist level, then it is better to play it safe a little and take a shorter shutter speed, say, ¼ second.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 200, F6.3, 1/4 sec, 28.0 mm equiv.
If we return to the record shutter speed of one second, it turns out that when shooting at not too long focal lengths, the effectiveness of the stabilization system reaches 5 exposure levels!
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 1600, F5.6, 1/5 s, 20.0 mm eq.
Photo quality
The Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III uses a 4/3” (Four Thirds) Live MOS image sensor with 16.1 million effective pixels and a standard Bayer color filter. The sensor is paired with the latest generation processor - TruePic VIII.
The camera, as a rule, sets white balance and exposure correctly - there is no need to select a preset for the first parameter and enter a correction for the second. Just select auto white balance and multi-zone (ESP) exposure metering method in the settings.
To complete the picture of photo image quality, let’s look at the results of our traditional shooting at different ISOs, and then evaluate the dynamic range of the camera.
Digital noise and ISO
At the lowest sensitivity value available to the camera’s automation—ISO 200—as expected, we get a picture without any hint of digital noise.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 R Settings: ISO 200, F8, 1/25 s, 74.0 mm eq. Download RAW
At ISO 400 the picture is almost the same, but at ISO 800 signs of luminance noise begin to appear in the midtones. But otherwise the image does not cause any complaints.
At ISO 1600, in the same mid-tones, usually the most problematic in terms of digital noise, the first signs of its color component appear. But in other areas, smooth tones, high detail and correct color reproduction are maintained. Such pictures can be printed on formats up to A3+. At a value of 3200, in monotonous areas the noise increases slightly, but it begins to slowly “eat up” small, not very contrasting details. ISO 3200 should be considered the maximum for printing on A3 format.
At ISO 6400, noise increases slightly in monotone areas, bright colors begin to desaturate, and contrast details begin to wash out. This value is still suitable for printing on A4. At ISO 12800, all of the above degradation processes are aggravated, but the image can still be used for online publications if the resolution is reduced. At ISO 25600, the image looks very dirty and crumbly due to strong digital noise; this value can only be used in a desperate situation when it is not possible to obtain the desired exposure with other settings.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 R Settings: ISO 6400, F8, 1/1000 s, 74.0 mm equiv. Download RAW
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 R Settings: ISO 12800, F8, 1/1600 s, 74.0 mm equiv. Download RAW
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 R Settings: ISO 25600, F8, 1/3200 s, 74.0 mm equiv. Download RAW
Dynamic range
Thanks to the availability of RAW versions of some of the problematic images, the possibilities of expanding the dynamic range were assessed during the conversion process.
As a result of the processing, it became clear that it was possible to pull out detail from the shadows, increasing the exposure by approximately 2.7 EV.
Working with another underexposed photo, taken at ISO 1600, showed that in this case, too, you can get a decent result with RAW conversion.
When shooting with back-to-back sunlight, there was strong flare, which reduced the contrast on the right side of the image and lost details in the clouds.
The result of processing the RAW version with the settings Exposure -0.5, Contrast +25, Highlights -100, Shadows +100.
When working with overexposed images, the camera has a decent margin in the highlights, and it is even slightly larger than in the shadows - up to 3 EV.
White balance
When shooting during the day, there are no problems with obtaining the correct white balance.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 R Settings: ISO 200, F5.6, 1/800 s, 108.0 mm equiv.
Both cold and warm tones of the scenes being filmed are correctly conveyed.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus Body Cap Lens 9mm f/8 Fisheye Settings: ISO 200, F8, 1/100 sec, 18.0 mm equiv.
The i-Enhanced image style helps to enhance them a little - you can often do without additional processing in a photo editor.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus Body Cap Lens 9mm f/8 Fisheye Settings: ISO 200, F8, 1/250 sec, 18.0 mm equiv.
In artificial light, automation often leaves JPGs with overly warm color rendering.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm f/3.5‑5.6 EZ Settings: ISO 1000, F4, 1/60 sec, 28.0 mm equiv.
For example, on Okhotny Ryad Square I discovered several Travel Agency houses, in one of which I was able to take an interesting portrait in the dim light of incandescent lamps. The automation left too much yellow, but after opening the RAW version of the photo in the converter, all you had to do was select the “Auto” option for white balance - and the result turned out very good. All that remains is to slightly adjust the saturation and contrast. Settings: ISO 1600, F2.8, 1/25 sec, 90.0 mm equiv.
Video and wireless capabilities
Video shooting
The maximum video quality offered by the E-M10 Mark III is 4K resolution (3840 x 2160 pixels) and 30 fps. This video looks decent, the picture is clear, smooth and without jerking.
Download in original quality
When setting the Full HD resolution (1920 x 1080 pixels), the frame rate can be increased to 60. But even on a Full HD monitor, a loss in resolution is visible in comparison with 4K video.
Download in original quality
Stabilization works when shooting video, and there is an option with both matrix shift and additional digital stabilization. Even with fairly fast camera movements, the picture changes smoothly, without jerking. You don't have to worry about ruining your video due to hand tremors or accidental sudden movement of the camera.
Download in original quality
Wireless connections
The camera is equipped with a Wi-Fi module that provides simple and convenient direct connection to mobile devices. To get started with the camera, you need to install the free Olympus Image Share mobile app. On the camera, after the “Connect to smartphone” command, the Wi-Fi module is turned on and it switches to access point mode.
Once your smartphone is connected, the Olympus Image Share app offers features such as remote shooting control, importing and editing images from the camera, downloading instructions, and adding geotags.
It is worth noting that when controlling shooting from a smartphone, the application provides the photographer with maximum opportunities. It allows you to focus on the screen and not only change basic shooting parameters, such as shutter speed, aperture, ISO and exposure compensation, but even select a shooting mode and apply effect filters.
conclusions
So, working with the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III camera for a month and analyzing the results obtained allows us to draw certain conclusions. This is a very good camera for everyday photography and capturing all the interesting moments while traveling. We especially note that this is true for those photographers who attach great importance to comfort, which means the weight and size of the camera and interchangeable lenses.
E-M10 Mark III / Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 R Settings: ISO 1250, F4.9, 1/160 s, 184.0 mm equiv.
The E-M10 Mark III produces very decent image quality, especially once you understand the settings a little and start using smart features such as handheld night photography or HDR. If you master the capabilities of the camera properly and use manual settings in combination with a highly effective stabilization system, you can get high quality pictures even in difficult lighting conditions.
Of course, this baby cannot compete with full-frame multi-megapixel cameras in terms of quality. But it will give them a head start on the comfort of shooting while traveling lightly. The camera is small and light, especially with the standard M.Zuiko Digital ED 14‑42mm 1:3.5‑5.6 EZ Pancake zoom lens. Olympus has many other compact and lightweight lenses in its arsenal that are ideal for our model. Let me remind you that the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III is an entry-level camera in terms of positioning in the line. Therefore she is deprived of some professional opportunities. There are no interfaces for high-quality audio recording; contrast (rather than hybrid) autofocus is used. When shooting continuously at high speed, focusing is performed only on the first frame. But it would be wrong to place increased demands on a camera that costs about 40 thousand rubles (let’s not forget about the ruble exchange rate).
Pros:
- beautiful design, two colors;
- ergonomic, lightweight and compact body;
- high quality photographs up to ISO 3200;
- convenient touch control;
- highly effective stabilization system;
- SDHC UHS-II memory card support;
- Works with almost any interchangeable optics.
Minuses:
- contrast autofocus system, rather than the more effective hybrid one;
- Focus tracking is not supported when shooting continuously at high speed;
- there are no interfaces for high-quality audio recording;
- Recharging via USB interface is not implemented.
The Olympus OM-D series of compact interchangeable lens (ILC) mirrorless cameras has gained recognition among users. The first model, the E-M10, is an affordable, high-quality device designed for those new to mirrorless cameras and those looking to upgrade from an older model. Today we test the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II.
Camera Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II - Reviews
Olympus now has a sequel, and while the new Mark II doesn't break new ground, it is a very capable camera.
Retro, a frequently used word when describing modern camera design, the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II looks like cameras from the 1970s, especially in the two-tone black and silver styling (the camera is also available in black and a limited edition brown leather) .
The design is very thoughtful, like its predecessor. Of the high-end OM-D series, the E-M10 II is the only affordable model, but this equipment has received a redesigned control layout. All large knurled circular scales (the shooting mode dial, etc.) are located to the right of the pop-up flash, and the on/off lever is on the left. The dials are large enough to make adjustments by touch when looking through the electronic viewfinder (EVF).
Speaking of the EVF, it's worth noting the OLED display's improved resolution to 2.3 million pixels, superior contrast and smoother image reproduction, compared to the 1.44 million pixels of the first E-M10. If you prefer your shots by tilting the 3-inch LCD touchscreen, you get 1.04 million pixels of resolution—not class-leading, but still good.
Of course, the camera uses the Micro Four Thirds mount system that has led us to be impressed by Olympus M.ZUIKO lenses over the years.
The camera is compact (4.7 x 3.3 1.9 inches, without lens) and even considering that it is an ILC, it is very light, just under 400 grams with battery and memory card. Adding a compact lens kit (costing about $600) adds little weight to the overall package, making it easy to carry around all day. Although the M.ZUIKO lens is very thin, 14-42mm F/3.5-F/5.6, it has a 3x Micro Four Thirds optical zoom and an equivalent focal length range of 28-84mm for the 35mm format .
Digital camera The E-M10 Mark II has all the previously mentioned dials, plus a variety of function keys that can be used to customize it. There are two function keys on the top panel and a third on the back. The top panel looks unnecessarily cluttered with a large number of buttons and dials, as well as a stereo microphone, pop-up flash and shoe. If you are new to using Olympus, it is best to refer to the instruction manual when setting up.
On the back is a tilting 3-inch LCD touchscreen display, an EVF with diopter control, a convenient thumb extension, and a tiny mono speaker. There are also classic buttons (menu, info, delete, play) around the joystick with a central "OK" button. There is a USB and A/V socket on the right side, and a battery/SD card compartment on the bottom. The battery is designed for 320 shots, which is quite enough for a full day of shooting.
What's included
The O-MD E-M10 II comes with a 14-42mm F / 3.5-F / 5.6 M.ZUIKO lens. Also in the box is a battery, charger with power cord, USB cable, strap, and caps. Olympus provides a basic 30 page starter manual; the full version is on the included CD, which also contains Olympus Viewer 3, software for processing images and RAW files. The camera has built-in Wi-Fi, and you can also download the Olympus Image Share app for Android or iOS.
Features, performance and use of the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II
The Olympus OM-D E-M10 II features a proven 16.1-megapixel Micro Four Thirds chip paired with a TruePic VII processor. It's one of the core components in the Olympus lineup, delivering quality photos for years to come. In the new model, the frame rate was increased to 8.5 per second, in the first E-M10 this parameter was 8 frames per second. It's hardly a stunning change; what's more important is that it's a very responsive camera that focuses very quickly, thanks to the 81-area multiple AF system.
The photo quality is quite good, the images are clear and have rich colors. The E-M10 II features creative effects to enhance the quality of your photos; In addition to Dramatic Tone, there are 13 other artistic filters.
One of the new features is a built-in 5-axis image stabilizer, rather than 3-axis as in the previous model. This is especially true when shooting scenes of objects swinging while you are standing on solid ground.
As already noted, the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II is a very responsive camera, the rate of 8.5 frames per second in Continuous AF mode drops to 4 frames. Maximum speed The shutter speed is 1/4000 second, and the mechanism itself is quite noisy if you shoot in bursts. Luckily, Olympus has included a silent mode. Maximum speed with electronic shutter is 1/16,000 second.
Video shooting performed by the OM-D E-M10 Mark II is also quite good quality, I am pleased with the color accuracy and fast focusing. The maximum resolution is Full HD 1080/60p, but clips are prone to distortion when panning quickly. Other camera makers now offer video in 4K, the standard - which is a higher quality resolution. The material filmed in this way can be scaled to Full HD video format, which is of better quality. Surely a 4K option will be part of the next generation of O-MD cameras, but at the moment this feature is not included in the E-M10 II.
The camera has a native ISO range of 200-25,600, but it can be lowered to 100. Many new mirrorless cameras have a range of 51,200 listed in the parameters, but in reality this is just marketing ploy, as images shot at such high settings have color distortion. There is no point in using the maximum 25,600 setting with the E-M10 Mark II, as you will be quite comfortable shooting in the ISO 4000 range, and even 6400, unless you intend to enlarge your photos too radically.
The camera has built-in Wi-Fi and when tested paired with a Samsung Galaxy S5, the Olympus Image Share app connected easily. Olympus uses a QR code process that appears on the camera's LCD, which can be verified using an app on your smartphone. Software provides the basics such as remote control camera, adding geotags, editing images, and, of course, sending pictures to your smartphone. Compared to earlier generations of cameras, modern models Wireless quality has finally been improved.
Bottom line
The Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II can be recommended for those looking to move up to affordable mirrorless cameras or owners of older cameras looking for an upgrade. This model It doesn't have any of the new specs that come with 2016 cameras (like 4K), but it does have everything we'd like to see in a new camera.
Of course, I would like it to have higher video quality, but Full HD 1080 / 60p is not the worst option. With that said, when choosing the best camera, it's worth considering Sony's A6000, a comparable mirrorless model that sells for almost the same price, but unlike the OM-D E-M10 Mark II has a larger APS-C sensor(24.3MP). Olympus may not have broken any barriers in terms of updates, but it should be noted that one of the selling points of the E-M10 II is that it is a very thin camera.
Turning the mode dial is accompanied by the appearance on the screen of information about the mode change and its essence. With modes P (programmed automatic), A (aperture priority), S (shutter speed priority) and M (manual setting of exposure parameters) everything is clear, this is a classic. By the way, when you are in modes groups P-A-S-M, pressing the quick menu button displays the SCP control panel - the same one as in the previous illustration.
The “green” AUTO mode is intended for those who do not want to think about camera settings. In this mode, the camera itself recognizes what type of scene you are shooting and automatically sets the optimal parameters based on the shooting conditions.
In AUTO mode, the Quick Menu button (or touching the right edge of the camera's touch screen) turns on the Live Guide function. A column appears on the right with icons that allow you to change Saturation, Hue (enter color shift), Brightness (enter exposure compensation), Blur background (change aperture) and turn on Dynamic scene (adjust shutter speed).
The sixth, lowest point of the “Guide to Easy Changing Settings” is called – Shooting Tips. It's like a micro-tutorial on photography, giving quick tips on framing as well as photographing children, animals, flowers, flowers and products.
The intention to make life easier for a novice photographer with the help of a “Guide to easily changing settings” is worth applauding, although I’m not sure that the multi-colored squares are so visual and immediately understandable.
In fact, most photographers, even beginners, look down on the “green mode” a little. In fact, behind its apparent simplicity (turn it on, you don’t need to do anything else) hide complex algorithms and very broad changes in the behavior of the camera. For example, she can enter exposure compensation herself or enable HDR shooting. I walked around the city for quite a long time and filmed in AUTO mode, and sometimes it pleasantly surprised me.
For example, this shot was taken fully automatically.
At first glance, it may seem, if not overexposed, then still too light, in cloudy weather. However, in fact, the camera analyzed the scene, saw the photos of people, recognized faces and, after metering the faces, set the exposure parameters accordingly. Well, turning the camera is already mine :).
For comparison, here's what it looked like shooting under the same conditions (and in the same AUTO mode), but without faces in the foreground:
The SCN mode dial position is Scenes. Access to them is organized completely differently from all other Olympus cameras. Obviously, the developers considered that going through a monotonous (and long, usually more than twenty items) list is too tedious (especially for those who like trouble-free communication with the camera - and this is precisely what the entire interface of the E-M10 Mark III is built with in mind).
When you rotate the mode dial to SCN (or if you press the Quick Menu button on the top panel while already in SCN mode), six headings are displayed on the screen - People, On the Move, Indoors, Night Scene, Landscape and Close-up – within which there are already grouped story programs.
You can navigate the on-screen menu using the navigation pad buttons, control dials, or simply touching the touch screen. Moreover, with the first touch you will activate the group title (it will be surrounded by a frame), and the second touch will open access to the stories of this group. It's similar to working with a mouse, where you can navigate through application shortcuts on the desktop with one click, and launch an application with a double click.
Let's open the first group, “People”.
There we will be offered five story programs - Portrait, e-Portrait (with embellishment) ...
…Landscape+Portrait…
…Night+Portrait…
...as you can see, each story program is accompanied by its own “wallpaper” (a full-screen picture), explanations about its essence, and sometimes recommendations (use a tripod, raise the built-in flash)…
...and finally, Children.
The “In Motion” group includes three story programs.
You're starting to respect the AUTO mode, aren't you? After all, there the camera itself determines both the conditions and the objects being photographed... in fact, it selects the subject program automatically.
This is the second time we have met the children's story program. Yes, this is a feature of the organization of the new menu - one story program can be included in several different groups. Plot Children are included in three groups: People, On the Move and Indoors.
The Portrait and e-Portrait scenes can also be accessed through different groups.
The plot of the shooting with the wiring is interesting. Apparently, what is hidden here is the ability to switch the stabilizer to the “attenuate only vertical vibrations” mode, which is no longer explicitly available.
Although the mode indication on the control panel still remains simply as “S-IS On”.
The “Indoor” group includes as many as six story programs. These are two portrait subjects that are already familiar to us and shooting children, and in addition, Candle Light...
...and the “Silent” story program. This is where we essentially turn on the electronic shutter (which is not among the shutter modes selected by pressing the Down navigation key). In the translation of the description of the plot of “Silent”, a curious mistake was made - in the words “with low quality of sound and light from the camera.” This means that the plot is useful “in conditions where the noise and light produced by the camera are undesirable.” That is, in addition to turning off the mechanical shutter, the flash, autofocus illumination and sound confirmation of its operation are turned off.
The HDR Backlight scene takes multiple frames and automatically combines them into one to enhance dynamic range. The same mode can turn on, sometimes unexpectedly, when the camera is in AUTO mode.
The “HDR Backlight” scene does not provide any settings, unlike the “Advanced HDR Photo Mode”. By the way, in all cases, the resulting frame can be saved not only in JPEG format, but also in RAW.
Five scene programs are placed in the “Night Shot” group.
Note that the built-in flash does not pop up on its own - the inscription “Flash POP UP” warns you about the need to raise it.
There are both modes where a tripod is needed, and handheld night photography (several shots are taken at a relatively high ISO value to shorten the shutter speed, and then these several shots are combined into one to reduce noise).
The Fireworks plot is “ordinary” tripod photography with a long shutter speed...
...and under “Shooting streaks of light” there is a more interesting Live Composite mode, in which the process of exposure at long shutter speeds is clearly visible on the camera display.
Launching the “light strips” (Live Composite mode) is as simplified as possible here, it is turned on with one click of a button - and this can be done both from SCN story programs and from the “advanced functions” of AP.
The four scenes of the “Landscape” group are Landscape, Sunset (with enhanced transmission of red and yellow shades), Beach and Snow (with preservation of bright white areas), as well as the already familiar HDR Backlight.
The last, sixth, group of story programs is called “Close-up”.
Two stories are dedicated to Macro photography.
Of course, macro photography appears here only in terms of camera settings, but not image scale; To get true high-magnification macro shots, you'll need specialized lenses.
The Documents scene is optimal for shooting contrasting monochrome texts.
Finally, the Expanded Focus scene program includes a focus bracketing feature. As with Light Streaks and HDR Highlights, launching from scene programs is as hassle-free as possible, a “one-button” experience, suitable for the most novice photographers.
We have reached a group of modes for which a separate AP position is allocated on the mode dial, which stands for Advanced Photo, or “Advanced Photo Modes,” or, as on the screen, “Advanced Shooting Mode.”
Let me remind you that the AR mode menu, which you see in the next screenshot, appears both when you turn the mode dial to the appropriate position (that is, when you just get into AR mode), and when you press the “quick menu button” (if you are already in you are in AR mode).
The Live Composite function (translated as “Live Collage” in this camera) is a truly advanced tool for night photography. The camera first records a still image, and then those objects in the frame that do not move and whose brightness does not change remain that way; Only lighter objects are added. While watching the display, you can wait until the desired image is formed, or draw it yourself - and stop shooting when the desired result is achieved.
Launching the Live Composite function from AP mode is as simple as possible, you press the button once, you don’t need to think about anything, the camera’s automation takes care of setting the exposure parameters.
At the same time, the ability to launch Live Composite (as well as Live Bulb and Live Time) with a large number of settings through the in-camera menu is also preserved.
More details about working with the Live Composite and Live Time modes can be found in my .
Live Time is a simpler mode than Live Composite. It allows you to watch on the screen how the image appears at a long shutter speed, and stop shooting when the desired result is achieved by pressing the shutter button.
Before starting Live Time mode, you can set a maximum shutter speed, after which the camera will automatically stop exposure, even if you forget to press the button.
In Multiple Exposure mode, you take two photos in succession, which are then automatically combined into one.
The result is saved in JPEG and/or RAW formats.
HDR mode is useful when there is very high lighting contrast in the scene. The camera takes three quick successive shots at different exposures, which are then automatically combined into one. Roughly speaking, the lightest areas are taken from an underexposed photograph, and the darkest from an overexposed image. The result is an image with high dynamic range. 
There are two options – the more realistic HDR 1 (with a lower exposure bracket) and the more “spectacular” HDR 2.
Check out three examples of HDR in action. In all cases, the HDR 1 option was used.
If moving objects enter the frame (and this often happens), then the camera does not form several translucent “ghosts”, but successfully deals with the problem using only one of the takes, so that doubling and tripling are not observed in the final image.
Note that in all three cases, the dynamic range of the matrix was enough so that information in highlights and shadows was not lost, and in principle it was enough to shoot in RAW without using HDR. Well, since shooting in HDR results in a RAW frame, then... we can, if necessary, extract details from it, and it will be like a two-stage preservation of details!
The next mode in the AR group is “Silent”. We are already familiar with him, he met among the SCN story programs, in the “Indoors” group. The silent electronic shutter turns on, the sounds produced by the camera and the autofocus illuminator turn off.
In the “Panorama” mode, you take several frames in succession, while marks are displayed on the screen to make framing easier (you are shown the edge of the previous frame, which must be combined with the next one).
The E-M10 III does not have in-camera panorama stitching, just as other Olympus system cameras do not have it. You can complain about this, although I wouldn’t be particularly upset - image editors do an excellent job of this task, stitching together a panorama from individual frames quickly and efficiently.
An example of a panorama of four frames taken with an E-M10 III camera and stitched together in a couple of minutes in an external editor (click on the file with a resolution of 4564×1080 pixels):
The keystone correction function can be used to change the geometry of the photo while shooting. You can straighten converging verticals, or, on the contrary, add drama to your pictures.
After the release of the Sony A99 mark II, I spent a lot of time thinking, since it was time to decide on the main Sony mount - A or E? The cost of new high-aperture Sony lenses did not add to optimism; the existing fleet of high-quality optics for Minolta A was already self-sufficient and required virtually no investment, which simplified the decision-making process. As a result, the Sony A6000, sel 1018f4, sel2470f4Z and 70200f4G went to a new owner, I ordered the updated 99 and enjoyed the new camera (I will make a separate post about my experience with it later).
But - winter has come, and with it it’s time to think that it would be illogical to carry with you / leave expensive optics and a camera in the car at subzero temperatures for the sake of a possible accidental photo, constantly carrying a bag weighing 5 plus kilograms is not easy, and doing without I'm completely out of the habit of using a camera.
And the question arose about buying a pocket camera “for every laziness.” I came up with a list of what I would like to have in this camera and began to compare it with offers on the market at the end of October 2017:
1. Price. I decided to limit the search ceiling to 999 USD (60,000 rubles) per camera. In the end, I just need an additional camera to the four full frame cameras I have. And grow another full-fledged “camera + optics park” system costing two, three, four, etc. I didn’t plan on hundreds of thousands of rubles.
2. Weight and size. New camera was supposed to fit in the inside pocket of a winter jacket. Along with the lens.
3. Matrix stabilizer. After using it for a couple of years on the Olympus e-m5, and then on the Sony a99mII, I realized that there was no point in buying cameras without it. The lack of a stabilizer in the camera now only means that we are looking at a somewhat outdated model or a greedy/lazy manufacturer.
4. Possibility of changing optics. There are many interesting digital compacts on the market with fairly large matrices - up to full frame- but the installed lenses have a fixed focal length. Or a zoom lens - but the matrix is a maximum size of 0.52 inches. Fix is not suitable by definition - there is no point in artificially limiting yourself in the choice of subjects. And small matrix cameras with zoom are good, but I too often shoot in insufficient lighting, which imposes its own requirements on the physical size of the matrix. And their weight and dimensions are usually quite large.
5. Availability of a built-in viewfinder. There is no point in arguing about the advantages of the built-in viewfinder in sunny weather over viewing on the screen. And if it’s convenient, it means it’s necessary.
6. The presence of a folding screen. It was the folding screen that was the reason for the purchase at one time (in 2012) of a system camera - the Sony A77. More opportunities for creating interesting shots - this is convenient. Convenient - necessary.
7. Availability of a touch screen. 2017 is just around the corner. Selecting a focus point on the screen is, in my opinion, the optimal solution. It’s good if it is duplicated with a convenient joystick (winter, gloves). But we don’t have winter all year round, so you can just use a touch screen.
8. Availability of built-in wifi. I have used remote camera control more than once in completely different situations. And the speed of transferring photos wirelessly to a tablet/smartphone is a big plus. So again the formula is “Convenient, necessary, let’s look.”
I looked through the candidates from what is available in Vladivostok. Almost all modern cameras, regardless of manufacturer, have a set of the listed functions. The spirit of the times and the formed wishes of consumers. The only difference is the cost. I went to the store and moved on to the tactile test. I twirled one camera, a second, a third - and it was the turn of the hero of today's review - the Olympus om-d e-m10 mark II.
Price. At the time of writing the review, the camera can be purchased at the CSN with a whale 14-42mm 3.5-5.6 IIR for 36,999. The silver version is the same. The price is almost the same compared to others large networks, and the same as in the main Olympus online store (but in the official store shop.olympus.com.ru the unpainted version of the second ten costs 10,000 more - mysticism). The version with a more modern “blinozoom” 14-42mm EZ is 4,000 rubles more expensive. But the philosophy of electric zoom itself is alien to me, I’m used to twirling my hands, understanding what is happening and within what limits - so I didn’t consider it. Again, the 14-42IIR has 7 aperture blades, the pancake has only five. And - this difference is noticeable, especially when shooting at night using point light sources.
Weight and size. The camera is very light - weight with battery and memory card is only 390 grams. But at the same time, due to the metal body, it does not feel flimsy or cheap. Everything is very high quality and tightly assembled. A solid and neat camera. Size - only 120x83x47 mm. Fits in the palm of your hand.
Third. Stabilizer. Five-axis. Officially - 4 stages EV. In fact, 1/15 at EGF 100 mm handheld. It seemed weaker than the stabilizer in the top five - Olympus om-d e-m5. Not much, but weaker. But - settings for the stabilizer operation options have been added.
The remaining factors for choosing a camera in Olympus are there and work flawlessly. The touch screen is responsive and fast, the viewfinder is good, wireless connections with sufficient functionality.
Optics. We currently have in stock the whale 14-42 and the previously purchased (just in case) 40-150 4-5.6. I plan to buy an additional high-aperture portrait prime - most likely an Olympus 45 1.8 - the pictures taken with this small but beautifully rendering lens are very impressive.
What we liked about the Olympus e-m10 m2:
He is beautiful.
Whatever one may say, things have such a definition as beautiful and harmonious. And in this case, the camera definitely coincided with my ideas about beauty. Strict, laconic, but at the same time very user-friendly design coupled with excellent materials.
It's comfortable.
Special thanks to the developers for the high settings drums. I have big hands. And it can be difficult to control cameras with unclear disks. I remember well winter night shooting with the first Sony A7 - my hands were constantly frozen, because it was impossible to change anything in the settings with gloves on.
But on this baby the control dials are beyond praise. Ribbed, large, with deep notches. By the way, in the recently released third version of M10, the drums were cut down and made ordinary and indistinct. So, I’m glad that everything is fine with them here.
Please note - an inconspicuous button to the right of the front dial allows you to get a very convenient camera adjustment algorithm. Perhaps this tiny m10m2 is even more convenient than my favorite Fujifilm XT-2. In the camera settings, assign the Fn2 button to select ISO/WB - and get instant access to the main shooting parameters. Aperture/shutter speed/ISO and bonus - white balance. Two fingers. It's incredibly convenient (there's something to compare it to).
There are similar settings in the Fujifilm XT-20, but they are twists) They are more convenient on the Olympus than anything I have twisted before.
Hi's fast.
I bought the camera so that I could start shooting at any time. Always ready, always at hand. No matter what caught your attention - a flower blooming in November
Or an electrician repairing highway lighting, and you are driving at a speed of 80 km/h and there is no time to stop, take out a big black camera and shoot - but you have a second and a half to lift the baby and press the shutter,
Or the light of lanterns in the dead of night - by the way, ISO 6400
or beautiful sky over the bridge on the way to work
Or rose hips against a blue sky
in general, it copes with its main function for me perfectly in all situations. Real "Impression Catcher"
Disadvantages:
So far I have noticed only one thing - the location of the power button is unusual - you need to use both hands.
Updated:
In the best traditions of Olympus, the battery charge indicator is absolutely uninformative. Two positions - “Fully charged, I’m bursting with energy overwhelming me” and “That’s it, you have a couple of minutes - I’m switching off.” Here you can either develop the skills of telepathic non-contact measurement of the remaining power, or order a pair of batteries from DSTE on Aliexpress. Why not the original? Because the price of 15% of the cost of the camera for original batteries is somewhat overpriced. Although this is already the second Olympus camera I have, and it’s time to get used to this manufacturer’s habit of skimping on little things - such as lens hoods, which they offer to buy separately, asking for 15-20% of the cost of the lens itself for a piece of plastic).
But - the habit is to never turn off the camera while there is a possibility of taking a photo of something, and keep it with suitable settings in sleep mode eliminates this drawback.
I’ll update the post later - when I’ve worked with Olympus’ proprietary features - focus bracketing and Live Composite mode.
Update 11/16/2017
About tracking autofocus
Today I had a chance to check the operation of autofocus tracking. Once again I was happy about the purchase of this smart and compact camera. I went to a car service center for repairs and maintenance of the car - and in the yard there was such a young and positive plush miracle.
Autofocus tracking ( C-AF mode TR) works very confidently - a miss of 10 percent, but the dog also moved around the frame completely chaotically, from corner to corner of the picture, now approaching, now running away. So the test passed for my needs.
About focusing bracketing
I was thinking about checking another mode that this camera has - focus bracketing mode.
A few words about the regime itself. So, when setting up focus bracketing, the camera takes a predetermined number of frames (from 2 to 999) with a set focus deviation (from a conventional unit to nine). Those. For example, if you set 12 frames in increments of 2, you pressed the shutter and your camera continuously takes 12 images at the maximum possible speed for the current settings. Each time refocusing a little further from the frame. Then you transfer these images to your computer, open them in Photoshop, click Auto Merge Layers - and you get a picture in which everything is in focus from edge to edge.
I figured out the theory, set the settings in the camera, came home - and there was a gorgeous dinner at home. I decided to photograph a work of culinary art, reached into my pocket, pointed the camera - shutter - and I thought - “The preview hasn’t been working for a long time...” It turned out that while I was thinking my thought, the camera took 19 frames and saved them. Previously, in the camera menu, I assigned focus bracketing to the Fn3 key - and accidentally pressed it while taking out the camera. In general, it turned out to be a random non-synthetic test of this mode.
The first photo in the series is the usual small depth of field.
INTRODUCTION:
Olympus Lately we haven't been pleased with new products very often. The huge scandal that the company experienced at the end of 2011 significantly crippled financial opportunities"Olympians", which immediately affected the development and launch of new products on the market. And by 2014, the line of cameras was reduced by almost half, limiting itself to the “required minimum.”
In fairness, it should be noted that such difficulties sometimes benefit us (primarily us, consumers). The development company begins to take a more careful and scrupulous approach to introducing new models to the market, since the launch of a not very successful one can have critical consequences. In addition, you need to try to “cover” the wider lines of competitors with a narrow line of products, and also to extend the life of each model as much as possible, making it technologically advanced.
The budget models were practically removed, leaving only a couple of amphibious digital compacts and a couple of superzooms. And you can’t call them particularly budget-friendly. The main emphasis is on cameras with standard interchangeable lenses Micro 4/3.
TECHNICAL Olympus SPECIFICATIONS OM-D E-M10 Mark II, COMPARISON WITH OTHER OM-D CAMERAS:
| OM-D E-M10 mark II |
OM-D E-M5 mark II |
OM-D E-M1 | |
| Sensor | Micro 4/3 Live MOS, 17.3 x 13 mm |
||
| Number of megapixels | Total - 17.2; effective - 16.1 | Total - 16.8; effective - 16,1 | |
| CPU | TruePic VII | ||
| Photo | JPEG (Exif 2.2), RAW (12 bit); maximum frame resolution - 4608x3456, MPO (3D) | ||
| Video | FullHD (MOV: MPEG-4AVC, H.264; AVI: Motion Jpeg), 60p, 50p, 30p, 25p, 24p | FullHD (MOV: MPEG-4AVC, H.264; AVI: Motion Jpeg), 30p, 25p, 24p | |
| ISO sensitivity | ISO 200 to ISO 25600 (expandable to ISO 100) | ISO 200 to ISO 25600 (expandable to ISO 100) | |
| Image stabilization | Sensor shift, 5-axis, up to 5 steps EV | Sensor shift, 5-axis, up to 4 steps EV | |
| Autofocus system | Contrast, 81 zones | Contrast, 81 zones | Hybrid (81 contrast zones + 37 phase sensors) |
| Exposure metering | 324 zones |
||
| Shutter speed | 1/16000 to 60 seconds (with mechanical shutter - minimum 1/4000 second), Bulb | 1/16000 to 60 seconds (mechanical shutter minimum 1/8000 second), Bulb | |
| Continuous shooting speed | 8.5 fps | 10 fps | 10 fps |
| Display | Rotating, touch, 3" with a resolution of 1,037 MP | Tilt, touch, 3" with a resolution of 1,037 MP | |
| Viewfinder | Electronic, 2.36 MP; magnification 1.23x (100% coverage) | 1.48x (100% coverage) | Electronic, 2.36 MP; increase 1.48x (100% coverage) |
| Flash | Built-in, guide number 8.2 (at ISO200) | External (included), guide number 12.9 (at ISO200) |
External (included), guide number 10 (at ISO200) |
| Wi-Fi/GPS | Not really | Not really | Not really |
| Interfaces | AV/USB, micro-HDMI | AV/USB, micro-HDMI, 3.5 mm microphone input, 3.5 mm headphone output | AV/USB, micro-HDMI, 3.5 mm microphone input, external flash port |
| Battery | BLS-50 (8.5 W*hour), 320 frames (CIPA) | BLN-1 (9.3 W*hour), 310 frames (CIPA) | BLN-1 (9.3 W*hour), 350 frames (CIPA) |
| Frame | Metal, no moisture protection | Magnesium alloy with moisture protection | Magnesium alloy with moisture protection |
| Dimensions, weight | 120 x 83 x 47 mm, 390 grams | 124 x 85 x 45 mm, 469 grams | 130 x 93 x 63 mm, 497 grams |
In fact, Olympus largely repeats the Fujifilm line of cameras (well, or Fujifilm repeats the Olympus line - whichever you prefer). Just as Fujifilm at one time presented a “simplified” one, which differed little from the flagship in functionality, but was significantly cheaper, so Olympus decided to fill the niche with a simplified “almost flagship”.
As is the case with Fujifilm, OM-D system cameras have had a fairly distinctive and recognizable appearance since their launch, stylized as a retro DSLR. As in the 70s of the 20th century, the main emphasis is on compactness, but at the same time functionality and ease of use commensurate with “large” cameras.
The body of the E-M10 mark II is made of metal with a rubberized coating on the front. The camera looks very beautiful and gives the impression of an expensive, high-quality product. It is perfectly assembled, everything fits perfectly, nothing creaks, does not play, and feels solid. The E-M10 mark II is really comfortable to hold in your hands, despite the rather small protrusion of the battery grip. Comfort is ensured by a small thumb ridge on the back side cameras. In fact, all manufacturers of mirrorless cameras have already realized that in such a simple and obvious way you can significantly improve the grip of the camera, and they are implementing it almost everywhere, which is good news.
There are two main disadvantages. Firstly, the case, unlike older OMs, is not protected from moisture. There are already plenty of weather-resistant lenses in the Olympus lineup, so additional protection would be a welcome addition. But on the other hand, due to this (including) the cost of the camera was significantly reduced. And secondly, as in the older model, all the buttons on the camera body are small and not convex enough. So, those with large hands (as well as people with not very good eyesight) will have to get used to the ergonomics.
There are fewer buttons on the “ten” than on the “five”, and there are only three programmable ones. In addition, there is no interesting 2-position switch, which is present on older models and allows you to change the logic of the control wheels. (more about this in the E-M5 mark II review). All three control wheels are located on the right side. The camera allows for very flexible control settings. In addition to the three function keys, you can reprogram the video recording activation button, as well as program both control wheels. There are more than twenty functions to choose from.
Considering that the camera is quite small, for ease of use, the wheels had to be spaced out in height and made corrugated. The mode selection wheel, in general, is significantly raised above the body. And I must say that it all looks great, is implemented with high quality, and is really convenient to use.
The camera uses a 3-inch display with a resolution of 1,037 megapixels - the same characteristics as in the entire OM-D line. The fact that it was made to rotate in one plane is apparently the merit of marketers. There was nothing stopping us from making the display rotatable in all planes, as in the E-M5 mark II, but there was a need to “diversify” the products, increasing the number of advantages between the older and younger models.
The display is touch-sensitive, with its help you can change the focus area and scroll the menuand scroll through photos while viewing. But multi-touch is not supported, so using the usual “smartphone” gesture to enlarge or reduce a photo while viewing will not work.
The electronic viewfinder has the same resolution as other cameras in the line - 2.36 megapixels, but a lower magnification (1.23x versus 1.48x, which is noticeable when in use). But finally it was implemented based on an OLED matrix. In the "five" the picture seemed very cold, which caused discomfort. Here there is no such effect - the image is contrasting, warm and pleasing to the eye.
In addition, the new product has an interesting EVI operating mode - Simulated optical viewfinder. In it, the viewfinder image does not represent the actual exposure, but rather attempts to simulate what we should theoretically see through an optical viewfinder (if there were one). In practice, this is nothing more than an interesting feature, the practical benefit of which tends to zero.
FLASH:
The camera has a built-in flash and a hot shoe. The flash is not powerful - the guide number is only 8.2 at ISO200 (in terms of ISO100, the guide number will be only 5.6). But a camera of this size could hardly accommodate more powerful lighting. The flash can operate in the following modes: auto, manual (with a power divider setting from 1/1.3 to 1/64), red-eye reduction, slow sync and slow sync with red-eye reduction, second sync curtain You can set compensation in the range -3...+3 EV in 1/3 stop increments. Sync speeds can be adjusted from 1/250 to 1/60 of a second, and you can also set a high-speed sync mode (Super FP) with a shutter speed of 1/4000 of a second.
Unfortunately, the design of the flash does not allow you to change its angle, so pointing it at the ceiling to obtain a softer light-shadow pattern will not work.
As can be seen from the table above, the differences between the cameras are minimal. The E-M10 mark II, in addition to a simplified body and viewfinder, has a lower continuous shooting speed, and the mechanical shutter is limited to a minimum operating speed of 1/4000 sec (for older models - 1/8000). In addition, there are minor differences in the implementation of software "improvers". But, on the other hand, the camera has functions that even older models cannot boast of. But, however, all these functions are completely software and it is possible that they may appear in other OM-D cameras with the release of new firmware.
First - mode AF Targeting Pad (Touchpad autofocus). If you activate this function, you can look through the electronic viewfinder and focus by dragging your finger across the display. The display itself, if you bring the camera to your face, is “extinguished” by the proximity sensor, only the touch panel works. This is very convenient as it allows you to change the focus point without using the navigation buttons.
Another interesting feature is Focus BKT (focus bracketing). The idea is that the camera can take a certain number of shots, automatically shifting the focus plane from frame to frame. Anyone who has been involved in subject and macro photography knows that obtaining a large depth of field is not an easy task, since even closing the aperture too much may not provide sufficient depth of field to get the entire object in sharp focus. Today, to solve such problems, it is most often used combined focus method - Focus Stacking. It allows you to increase the depth of field by combining several frames with different focusing. This is the highest quality, but at the same time very labor-intensive and time-consuming method. Firstly, you need to focus manually, sequentially changing the focusing plane and at the same time observing a certain step. At the same time, you need to take into account that as the subject moves away from the camera, and increases, so the focusing planes will expand. Secondly, keep in mind that when refocusing, many lenses change slightly, so the images will not be exactly identical. This can create additional “fuss” when combining images in a graphics editor. And thirdly, all photographs must be taken in such a way that when refocusing, you do not capture the “extra” zone of sharpness, since this also creates certain additional difficulties when combining frames.
After this, the resulting images can be combined in a photographic editor (Photoshop and any other of your choice).
Olympus has automated part of the labor-intensive process described above. But, of course, there were some nuances). Firstly, the images obtained using Focus BKT will still have to be combined in a graphics editor, since in-camera processing cannot do this. Secondly, the peculiarities of how bracketing works will have to be dealt with empirically. The camera has 2 settings that are responsible for its operation: the number of shots (from 1 to 999) and the focus shift, measured in certain conventional units (from 1 to 10). So, these parameters will have to be selected during the shooting process, by trial and error, since the camera itself cannot determine how many shots are needed to obtain a sharp image, and it will not be possible to immediately understand the logic of the focus shift, since it is not clear what the values are tied to .
But, nevertheless, by spending some time selecting the necessary parameters, you can significantly save shooting time in the future. Moreover, the automatic photographing process itself is very fast.
All three cameras in the Olympus line most likely use the same 16 megapixel sensor (the manufacturer diligently hides information about the origin of the sensors and their modifications “behind seven locks”). In the flagship E-M1, phase sensors are additionally integrated into the sensor, which allow for more accurate tracking autofocus when shooting moving objects.
Today, a 16-megapixel sensor can, de facto, be considered the standard of the Micro 4/3 system. So far, there are only two cameras with a 20 megapixel sensor - this Olympus PEN-F And Panasonic DMC-GX8. The sensor size for Micro 4/3 systems is 17.3 x 13.0 mm, while the full frame dimensions are 36 x 24 mm. If you do the math, it turns out that the Micro 4/3 sensor area is 3.8 times smaller than the sensor area of a full frame camera. This means that a full 35mm sensor with the same pixel density as the E-M10 mark 2 would have a resolution of 62 megapixels. And it’s no secret that an increase in the number of pixels (and, as a consequence, a decrease in their size and distance between them) significantly affects the “noise” of the resulting image. Today, only Canon has a 35mm camera with a record 50-megapixel sensor, in which the maximum ISO value has been significantly “tweaked” so as not to “scare” users with strong digital noise. Therefore, it seems to me that even 16 megapixels is the maximum reasonable limit for this matrix size, and 20 megapixels is already “a bit overkill”.
The camera has a very good dynamic range. It copes well with scenes in which there are strong changes in brightness. From a severely underexposed RAW file, with some simple manipulations in a graphics editor, you can get a pretty decent picture. Naturally, noise will appear, but only in the form of “grain” and not dirty colored spots. Below is an example photo: on the right is the original JPEG, on the left is an image from a RAW file with “stretched” shadows +80 in Adobe Camera RAW.
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As for “noise,” Olympus engineers seem to have squeezed everything they could out of this sensor. The camera starts to make noise already at ISO1600, but allows you to get a pretty decent picture up to ISO3200. At ISO6400, a significant loss of detail is already visible, and in no case should you raise the sensitivity higher.
Download original pictures taken using different meanings ISO (RAW+JPEG) for independent detailed study, you can use this link.
Traditionally, the camera uses a contrast autofocus system. In the E-M10 mark II it is the same as in the E-M5 mark II - 81 focus sensors, almost completely covering the frame. Single focusing is very fast and tenacious. Its accuracy almost always exceeds the accuracy of phase detection autofocus of SLR cameras, since focusing is carried out by sensors located on the matrix, and not by separate sensors located on the mirror, which require very precise alignment.
Compared to me, I didn’t feel any difference, autofocus is very fast. But, when compared with, the difference in autofocus performance is very noticeable. With single focusing (especially in low light conditions), the Panasonic focuses faster and more accurately. And this despite the fact that formally the GM5 autofocus system is much simpler - 23 sensors versus 81. But when using tracking autofocus, the E-M10 mark II still behaves more correctly, gets lost less often and loses the subject. And yet, modern mirrorless cameras with contrast autofocus are not yet capable of fully capturing fast-moving objects. Here, cameras with phase detection (or hybrid) autofocus have a clear advantage.
The camera has a new 5-axis matrix image stabilization system, but a more simplified modification compared to the E-M5 mark II. Unfortunately, and most likely for this reason, the E-M10 mark II does not have the High Res Mode that the E-M5 mark II had. According to the specifications, the stabilizer can compensate up to 4 EV (in the E-M5 mark II - up to 5 EV). In practice, I managed to get more or less acceptable pictures even at a shutter speed of 1/2 second. And this is a very good result.
But as for video, the stabilizer of the older camera copes with vibrations much more accurately. So, if you plan to shoot video handheld, the E-M5 mark II is unbeatable.
CAMERA PROS:
- effective 5-axis image stabilization;
- excellent image quality (RAW and JPEG), wide dynamic range;
- fast and accurate autofocus (for single shooting);
- good image quality, up to ISO3200 inclusive;
- excellent contrast OLED viewfinder;
- high continuous shooting speed;
- interesting functional solutions, such as AF Targeting Pad And Focus BKT, which (yet) are not even found in more expensive cameras;
- very flexible customization of mechanical camera controls;
- built-in Wi-Fi and a functional mobile application for communicating with the camera;
- an optional battery pack is provided;
- price.
CAMERA DISADVANTAGES:
- no in-camera stitching of panoramas;
- lack of headphone output and microphone input;
- no 4K video recording;
- low autonomy;
CONCLUSIONS:
In the process of drawing conclusions about the Olympus E-M10 mark II, the feeling of Deja Vu did not leave me, the conclusions echoed so much with Fujifilm review X-T10. Even the phrase “for a price that is actually $500 lower than the price of a flagship, you get a camera that has reduced functionality in certain areas” is more than applicable to this review, but with one significant “BUT.” There is a point that should be quite confusing for potential buyers when choosing.
The key difference between the E-M10 mark II and the E-M5 mark II (I deliberately do not mention the E-M1, since technologically it can hardly be called a flagship, I think in the very near future the manufacturer will update it to the E-M1 mark II) - this is the presence of a more effective image stabilizer in the latter. This factor brings with it significant bonuses when shooting video handheld and the presence of interesting High Res Mode.
Second key moment- the case is not protected from moisture.
All other differences are software (or rather, marketing) that can be eliminated with the release of the next firmware.
The E-M10 mark II is an excellent high-tech camera in a stylish, beautiful, high-quality, ergonomic (you can add epithets here) body, which also produces an excellent picture. The camera is not afraid of scenes with a large difference in brightness; its RAW files “stretch” perfectly.
For the same money you can take a closer look at the same Fujifilm X-T10 or Panasonic Lumix G7 or Sony a6000. Fujifilm and Sony have a larger sensor size (and, as a result, less noise), but simpler functionality. On the Panasonic side, there are better video shooting capabilities.
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