Modern technologies in textile production. Technological process and equipment for the production of fabric State participation in the development of the industry

The fabric at all times remains the product of the light industry, which does not lose its use. The fabric is produced by a weaving factory. Its organization will require the purchase or rental of premises sufficient to install a whole line of production equipment.

Fundamentals of fabric production

Fabric is made from yarn, which in turn is made from fiber. The quality of the resulting fabric is highly dependent on the characteristics of the fibers.

Fibers are divided into natural and chemical, originating from natural raw materials or obtained as a result of chemical synthesis, for example, polymer fibers.

The whole technology is conditionally divided into three stages:

Spinning;
Weaving;
Finishing.

Spinning

The basis of textile production is spinning. This is a process that results in a long thread - a yarn woven from short fibers. This production process is carried out on a spinning machine.

The fibers produced by the factory are usually compressed into small bales. Then they are loosened and shaken on the appropriate machines, while simultaneously being cleaned of debris. The scutching machine produces a canvas from the threads, which is rolled up.

The resulting web is then passed through scratching surfaces covered with fine metal needles. At the exit, after carding, a tape is obtained, which must be aligned on a draw frame, and then slightly twisted on a roving and twisting machine. After these operations, a roving is obtained.

On a spinning machine, the roving is leveled and pulled out, then wound onto bobbins. The spinning machine for the production of fabrics is operated by spinners. Their duties include repairing yarn and roving breaks, changing bobbins and maintaining equipment.

Made from yarn:

jersey;
sewing threads;
non-woven and woven materials.

Synthetic yarn

For synthetic fabric production, a more complex technological scheme is used. Liquid and viscous spinning mass is obtained from the initial components. It enters a spinning machine designed specifically for processing synthetic fibres.

The fibers are formed using special spinnerets - this is a small cap made of metal, inside of which there are many small holes. With the help of pumps, the mass enters the die and flows out through small holes. The flowing streams are treated with special solutions for solidification.

The creation of a synthetic fiber is at the same time the spinning of this fiber. Depending on what the fabric is intended for and what quality is required, the number of threads twisted into one is calculated. After finishing, the threads are wound on bobbins and sent to weaving.

Weaving

The direct process of producing fabric from yarn is called weaving. Equipment for the production of this stage It is serviced by weavers who can serve up to fifty automatic looms.

On a mechanical type machine, the weaver replaces empty spools, eliminates thread breaks. The employee must know the requirements for the quality of the fabric, the parameters of the defective fabric and the causes of the marriage, the measures to prevent and eliminate the marriage. When the weaver has started the loom, it begins to combine yarn into a woven fabric, which is the output.

Threads and weaves

There are transverse and lobar threads intertwined in different ways. Shared threads are directed along the canvases, as they are thinner and stronger. The transverse threads are thicker, shorter, tend to stretch.

The fabric obtained on a loom is called gray. Threads woven from fibers of different colors are called melange. A fabric made of melange threads is called similarly. But if threads with different colors were used to produce a woven fabric, the fabric is called multicolored.

The properties of the future fabric depend on the type of weave:

Large-patterned weave - jacquard;
Complex weave - pile, pique, openwork, loop, double;
Simply weave - twill, satin, plain, satin, crepe and diagonal.

Finely patterned weaves are made on a single-shuttle automatic loom. Multi-colored and complex weaves - on a multi-shuttle automatic weaving machine, large-patterned - on Jacquard looms.

How fabric is made

Fabric finishing

Finishing is the last stage of production. It improves the quality and properties of the fabric, gives it a marketable appearance and strength, depending on what processes the finishing implies.

Finishing can be done:

napping;
bleaching;
mercerization;
singeing;
boiling.

When singeing, protruding fibers are removed from the surface of a harsh canvas. Desizing involves soaking the fabric to remove dressing - impregnation applied during weaving.

Boiling removes any impurities from the canvas, and mercerization adds shine, strength and hygroscopicity by washing. When bleaching, the canvas is discolored, and when piled, it is given softness.

Final finishing

The final finishing includes such processes as:

calendering;
broadening;
dressing.

Calendering involves smoothing the canvas, broadening - aligning it to a standard width, dressing - applying starch for density, whiteness for bleaching, or wax or oil for shine.

Equipment

Fabric production requires a fairly rich production line. Consider the main types of production equipment, without which the manufacture of woven products cannot be launched.

Loom

Designed for the manufacture of woven fabric, it can be shuttleless and shuttle, round and flat, wide and narrow. Weaving looms are selected depending on what kind of fabric needs to be produced: linen, silk, cotton or wool.

Special equipment for working with a loom, which produces decorative and patterned fabrics, carpets and other carpet products.

sizing machine

Impregnates fabrics with a sticky solution called dressing. This is necessary for the production of wear-resistant and special fabrics, for example, for workwear.

rolling machine

It is used to roll the resulting fabric into a roll or reel using an automatically rotating roller. A properly maintained winder works more efficiently than manual winding of the fabric by weavers, especially on a production scale.

Dye line and printing machines

Allows you to dye fabrics with natural or synthetic dyes. The printing machine applies color prints with paint or dissolves the screen design on the finished dyed fabric.

Washing and measuring machines

The washing machine washes and dries the woven fabrics after printing or dyeing, and the measuring equipment is used to check the quality of the finished woven product, its length, width, density.

Scutching and cleaning and shaking machines

Used in the processing of flax fiber to obtain shorter fibers. Shaking machines loosen the short fiber and give it a marketable appearance.

Carding and spinning machines

The carding machine processes the flax fiber and makes ribbons out of it, and the spinning machine makes it possible to obtain yarn with the required strength. The spinning machine can be spindle or spindleless, the first, in turn, is divided into weft and main.

This is just the main line of equipment, you may also need:

flax cottoning lines;
scutching machines;
squeezing and drying machines;
wool washing and cotton processing devices.

It depends on the direction of the enterprise.

Video: Cotton, linen, hemp - features of the production of natural fabrics

This section presents theoretical materials on the technology of textile production.

Preparatory production. Processing fibers to yarn
Fiber comes to preparatory production in pressed bales. Before yarn is obtained from the fiber, the fiber itself undergoes additional processing - the bale is loosened, the fibers are subjected to scutching, combing, roving is obtained on roving machines, and yarn is obtained from the roving. Pneumo-mechanical spinning machines make it possible to obtain yarn directly from tapes, bypassing the roving transition.

The main goal of the spinning process is to obtain a textile thread (yarn) from a disparate mass of cotton fibers. At the same time, the yarn must comply with certain physical and mechanical properties and meet the necessary quality standards. Depending on the purpose of the yarn, there are also different ways of obtaining it, different spinning systems - carded, combed, hardware, melange.

Basic concepts about the process and technology of weaving. The theory and practice of fabric formation on a loom - a technological scheme of weaving production from yarn production to finishing of finished fabrics, requirements for processes.

Technological scheme of the process of rewinding the main yarn, the purpose and essence of rewinding. Winding machines and automatic winding machines: their classification, main working bodies, technological and kinematic schemes. Performance of yarn rewinding equipment. Machine maintenance.

Technological scheme of the warping process of the main yarn, the purpose and essence of warping. Common warping methods and equipment: batch warping machine, flying warping machine. Process requirements. Equipment performance and maintenance.

Technological scheme of the sizing process of the main yarn, the purpose and essence of sizing. Materials for the preparation of adhesive composition - dressings. The device of grinding machines and glue machines. Process requirements. Equipment performance and maintenance. The main parameters of sizing are drawing, gluing.

Methods and types of punching the base, punching machines. Warp tying technology: stationary and mobile knotting machines, their productivity. Defects and waste of yarn when tying the main threads. Reloading of the main threads on the machines due to the change in the range of products.

Rewinding of weft yarn, its moistening and rewetting. Weft winding machines, their technological and kinematic schemes, productivity. Burnouts and defects when rewinding the weft. Improving the physical and mechanical properties of weft yarn prior to its use in weaving.

Bodies and mechanisms of looms, their classification. The essence of the process of obtaining fabric on a loom, by means of mutual interlacing of longitudinal (warp) and transverse (weft) threads. Ways of laying the weft thread in the shed formed by the warp threads.

Clothing industry. Requirements for the range of clothing and fabrics in the clothing industry. The main assortment of garments is Russian enterprises. Sewing accessories. The use of garments in the textile industry.

The post has been changed:

fabric business

Textile production is a highly demanded line of business. The scope of textiles is very diverse. Popular areas of its application:

production of clothes: home, casual, elegant sportswear for adults and children, overalls;
production of accessories: scarves, bags, wallets;
interior and design: furniture production, curtains, curtains, tablecloths;
home textiles: bed linen, blankets, towels, pot holders.

Brief business analysis:
Business setup costs: from 3 million rubles
Relevant for cities with a population:from 700 thousand people
Situation in the industry:high competition
The complexity of organizing a business: 4/5
Payback: up to 2 years

There are other areas, for example, the production of materials for tourist equipment (tents, sleeping bags, etc.), the production of decorative fabrics and fabrics for needlework. There are fewer customers in this area, so the role of marketing and sales is increasing in order to interest potential partners and convince them to start cooperation.

Business Outlook

Due to the economic and political events that have taken place since the late 80s of the last century, this segment of production in Russia has been practically destroyed. To date, most of the fabrics are imported from abroad - both legally and counterfeited.

However, for the domestic market, the situation is changing for the better. According to experts, the production of fabrics in our country is potentially promising niche. With a competent business plan and skillful management, an enterprise can quickly pay off and bring good profits. The demand for fabrics is high and continues to grow, while people are interested in both the budget segment and expensive high-quality fabrics with an interesting design.

On the rise are companies producing textiles for bed linen - coarse calico, chintz, poplin. A large share of the market is also occupied by enterprises producing knitwear, suit fabrics and cloth.

Particularly promising, according to experts, is the production of furniture fabrics, as this market segment is actively developing and the demand for high-quality materials is very high.

The market for the production of clothing in our country is also quite diverse, but import manufacturers, primarily China, make up a lot of competition here. Nevertheless, practice shows that in this area there is also a constant search for high-quality goods with unusual characteristics - a pattern or texture. Therefore, those who can satisfy consumer demand have every chance of success.

Business organization

Before starting production, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the market and assortment. It is desirable to have a good understanding of the types of fabric, to understand the technological processes.

The entrepreneur must imagine what kind of fabric he wants to produce, what niche in the market to occupy and through what channels to sell.

Workshop room

The premises can be purchased or leased. It is also possible to negotiate with the existing enterprise and place orders for production with them.

The last option involves the development of your own fabric design and the purchase of raw materials, on the basis of which the manufacturing factory will produce the fabric. In this case, there are no costs associated with the acquisition of production premises, the purchase and maintenance of equipment, a small staff will reduce labor costs. But the ability to control the process and the quality of the final product is reduced. This scheme of work increases the cost of logistics, so if the factory is located remotely, it may turn out to be unprofitable.

The area of the enterprise depends on the planned volumes of output. It is necessary to remember the compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. The room should be well lit, the ceiling height should be at least 4 m. It will be necessary to provide good ventilation, in the cold season - heating.

For the comfort of workers, changing rooms with showers and a place to eat are needed. To ensure fire safety and uninterrupted operation of the equipment, it is necessary to take care of high-quality wiring. For the convenience of loading and unloading operations, an equipped area will be required, if possible, an auto ramp.

In addition to the workshop, dry warehouses for storing raw materials and finished products, as well as office space, will be required.

Practice shows that it is more convenient to locate production near the exit from the city or just outside the city limits. Typically, large-sized vehicles are used in logistics, so this location of the enterprise will speed up their movement and will not cause parking difficulties if the organization has several vehicles in its fleet.

Raw material supply channels

Depending on the raw materials used, fabrics are divided into two large groups:

natural (wool, silk, linen, cotton);
artificial (viscose, polyester, acetate).

Hence the most promising types of fabrics for production:

cotton;
linen;
woolen;
polyester;
technical.

Two types of natural raw materials are produced in Russia: flax and wool. Deliveries must be negotiated agriculture engaged in their industrial production. As for cotton, its production in our country is practically absent. Historically, Uzbekistan was the main supplier of this raw material in the Soviet Union, today it also continues to be the world's leading supplier of cotton.

China is the world's largest silk producer. It is also produced in India and Uzbekistan. Today, silk fabrics and silk products are presented mainly in the premium and luxury price segments. There is a drop in demand for these fabrics not only in Russia, but also in the world. Therefore, its use in the manufacture of fabrics requires a well-thought-out business plan with well-established distribution channels.

The situation is much simpler with synthetic fibers: many enterprises are engaged in their production, and the development of technologies makes it possible to modify and improve the range.

When purchasing foreign raw materials for initial stage it is more convenient to work with dealers. This will allow you to purchase goods from a warehouse in Russia without waiting international shipping and customs clearance.

Fabric production technology

Technological process has its own nuances depending on the type and desired characteristics of the fabric. The general algorithm looks like this:

production stage	What are they doing on it
Raw material pretreatment	Compressed bales received for production are loosened and divided into fibers by scutching and combing
Getting yarn	From the resulting fibers weave a thin long thread - yarn
Fabric Creation	The resulting threads are intertwined with each other in a certain order to obtain a continuous web.
Fabric processing	To give the fabric the desired properties, it is subjected to special processing. At the same stage, the drawing and fixing of the drawing takes place.

Necessary equipment

When starting a business on the basis of existing production facilities, it is necessary to assess the condition of the equipment. The equipment in many factories is outdated, which will inevitably affect the quality of the finished product. Therefore, it is not worth saving on equipment.

The specific machines included in the production line depend on the raw materials used and the final destination of the fabrics. The production of cotton, wool or synthetics involves different technological processes. Upholstery fabrics require more complex weaving and processing than bedding fabrics.

Machines used in production	Operations in progress
winding machines	Used for winding yarn
Loom	Weaves threads to create a web
sizing machine	Impregnates fabrics with a special solution to increase the wear resistance of the fabric
rolling machine	Rolls the fabric
Dyeing and printing machines	Fabrics are dyed and prints are applied to them
washing machine	Removes paint residue from fabric
Checking and measuring machine	With its help, they monitor the compliance of the finished fabric with standards.

Also, depending on the chosen specialization, separate equipment will be required: a spinning machine will be needed for processing wool, a carding machine for working with flax.

Business registration

To formalize the production, the manager must choose the legal form in which he will work - IP, LLC, joint-stock company. In addition, it is mandatory to obtain a certificate for the products. Failure to do so will result in serious penalties for the company.

Marketing and distribution channels

The production of fabrics is focused on large and small wholesale. Distribution channels depend on the chosen direction, but they can be conditionally divided into manufacturers who buy fabric for further processing and manufacturing of the final product, and dealers who buy it for resale in smaller lots.

The retail buyer is not always represented in the factory's distribution channels, because it is unprofitable to sell the fabric by the meter and store the leftovers for the manufacturer. However, you can use this direction for the sale of goods by opening a retail store at the factory.

Another direction for the development of production and a way to expand the target audience is the manufacture of products from fabrics of our own production under our own brand. This direction is not suitable for all types of fabrics; it is easiest to implement it in the production of home textiles - bed linen and towels.

Export of fabrics is also possible. At the moment, the largest share falls on linen fabrics. However, practice shows a constant decline in exports, so it is quite risky to rely on it.

Finally, you can choose a target niche: for example, fabrics for sewing uniforms or workwear. Tenders are often held in these areas or bids are made for large deliveries.

Marketing

Marketing strategies are based on search regular customers. It must be understood that the bulk of sales, most likely, will be conducted remotely. At the same time, potential customers already have other suppliers and a planned budget. So think and run marketing campaign it makes sense immediately, when opening a business, so that by the time the production starts, there is a real sales opportunity. This will avoid packing, reduce the cost by reducing the shelf life and pay back the costs faster.

Promotion methods:

An opportunity to express yourself and establish business contacts are the annual specialized exhibitions. The largest and most famous of them, for example, Tekstillegprom and Interkan, are held twice a year in Moscow. There are also regional exhibitions. They are less representative, but participation in them is more budgetary. The bonus of a trip to such events will be the opportunity to find new suppliers of raw materials working on favorable terms.
Product promotion is impossible without the World Wide Web. The company must have not only a high-quality website, but also post information on thematic sites. Contextual advertising has become less effective in recent years due to the ubiquity of blockers, but this way to inform about yourself also deserves attention.
There is no point in submitting information to the newspapers to the manufacturer. But paying for placement in thematic magazines and booklets is worth it.
Since the search for customers takes place remotely, and the fabric, as a product, needs a tactile assessment, it is necessary to prepare product samples for free presentation and distribution to customers. For the same purposes, it is convenient to order catalogs, since many customers subsequently place orders for them according to the requirements of the end buyer.
Cold calling as a way to find new customers is still popular. This method is more focused on the long term and allows, first of all, to expand the base of potential customers for further work of managers.

Business costs and payback

The investment required at the initial stage depends on the availability of equipment and its condition. Experts say that it is often easier to buy new cars than to upgrade outdated equipment. At the same time, it is recommended to buy the production line as a whole, and not in parts.

The costs are affected by the raw materials used, and the condition of the selected premises, and the estimated production volumes, on which the size of the staff depends, among other things.

At the initial stage, at least 3 million rubles will be required. An approximate cost estimate for the production of one type of fabric with a staff of no more than 25 people includes:

Costs	Approximate amount, thousand rubles
Business registration	50
Rental of industrial premises	100
Purchase or upgrade of equipment	1500
Equipment for industrial and office premises	500
Purchase of raw materials	200
Staff salary	500
Promotion activities: participation in exhibitions, advertising, etc.	100
Logistics	50
Communal payments	20
Unforeseen costs	100
Total	3120

You should also consider taxes. This item is not included in the table of expenses, since the amounts differ greatly from profit and the chosen taxation scheme.

Payback depends on production volumes and fabric prices. Prices, in turn, depend on the type of fabric: calico for bed linen will be cheaper than furniture fabrics, natural wool is more expensive than polyester. On average, with well-established distribution channels and the absence of serious contingencies, investments will pay off in two years.

Fabric production process from thread to counter

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Introduction

Light industry occupies an important place in the structure of the country's industrial production. Favorable conditions have developed for its development in the republic. Firstly, the presence of its own raw materials (flax fiber, chemical fibers, raw leather, etc.); secondly, the availability of highly qualified personnel, a sufficient number female hands, the demand for which is especially high in the industry; thirdly, a capacious market for products both in the republic itself and abroad. textile cotton spinning

The leading industry of the republic is textile. The textile industry is an industry that produces threads, fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics from natural and chemical fibers. In 1997 its share was 4.2% of all industrial output. It has more than 100 enterprises producing products for both personal and industrial consumption. A special place is occupied by linen, cotton, silk and woolen industries. Fabrics are produced in all areas, however, both their general production and individual types are quite differentiated across the territory. Suffice it to say that almost 4/5 of all fabrics in the republic come from enterprises in the Gomel, Mogilev and Vitebsk regions.

Of all types of fabrics produced in Belarus in 1998, the main ones were silk (26%). They were produced by enterprises in Mogilev, Vitebsk, Kobrin and others. Cotton fabrics, which ranked second in the total output, were produced mainly in Baranovichi and Mogilev. Their production is based entirely on imported cotton fiber. The linen industry, unlike the cotton industry, mainly relies on domestic raw materials, and has been developed in Orsha, partly in Mogilev. The output of woolen fabrics drastically decreased due to difficulties in supplying raw materials (almost 5 times in 1990-1998) and is represented mainly by enterprises in Minsk and Grodno. The dominant position in the production of carpets and rugs is occupied by the enterprises of Brest and Vitebsk.

The textile industry includes the following industries:

* Cotton industry producing cotton and semi-cotton fabrics. These fabrics are made from yarns formed from cotton fibers or blends of cotton with man-made fibers;

* Woolen industry producing woolen and semi-woolen fabrics. These fabrics are obtained from yarn formed from wool fibers. different kind or from mixtures of wool with chemical fibers;

* The bast industry, which produces linen, semi-linen fabrics, from other bast fibers of the fabric;

* The silk industry, which produces silk fabrics from natural silk threads, from chemical threads, yarn from chemical fibers.

1. Characteristics of the resulting products

In the textile industry, the leading sub-sector is cotton. The products of this sub-sector - cotton fabrics - have been in high demand in recent years. In order to meet the growing needs of the population in cotton fabrics and constantly improve their quality and expand the assortment, the cotton industry must develop at a high pace. In this case, the growth in the production of fabrics will be achieved mainly not through the construction of new enterprises, but by improving the work of existing ones: increasing the productivity of labor and equipment, improving working conditions and organization, automating and mechanizing production.

In recent years, the cotton industry has processed an increasing number of chemical fibers, mainly mixed with cotton, which gives new valuable properties to fabrics from these mixtures.

The production of cotton fabrics from cotton fibers is complex and laborious process. From the moment cotton is harvested from the cotton plantations to the packaging of finished fabrics, it undergoes numerous operations, first in ginneries and then in textile factories. Cotton fiber has a number of remarkable properties, which makes it possible to obtain high-quality fabrics, knitwear, threads and other products from it.

Textile cotton enterprises can be different types: combines, including all three industries - spinning, weaving and finishing; separate factories - spinning, weaving and finishing or combinations of the two industries, i.e. either spinning and weaving or weaving and finishing factories.

The task of spinning mills is to obtain a textile thread-yarn from a mass of cotton fibers, from which various textile products can later be obtained: fabric, knitwear, non-woven materials, threads, etc. An infinitely long body (thread) is called yarn, consisting of connections between each other by cohesive forces and twists of textile fibers.

The textile industry produces products of groups A and B. Cotton, linen, wool, silk, used directly for the production of household and technical fabrics, and fabrics going to sewing enterprises for the production of clothing, belong to group A. Fabrics, threads, cotton wool, batting , knitwear and other products sold in trade belong to group B.

Depending on the range of products selected in the project, the yarn grade must also be selected. The task is to choose such a sorting of cotton, chemical fibers and such a technological process at the factory, so that at minimal cost for raw materials and processing, to produce yarn that meets GOSTs.

There are two types of requirements for yarn: technological and operational. Technological requirements determine the ability of yarn to be well processed in the production of fabrics and other products, and operational requirements determine certain properties in the product (fabric) when worn.

Yarn must meet the following requirements:

* have a given linear density with minimal deviations and be even in length, both in small and large segments. Otherwise, the quality of fabrics decreases, the process of their production worsens, or cotton is overused;

* have a given strength and minimum unevenness in strength.

* have a given elongation and tensile stiffness with minimal deviations from these indicators along the length. Elongation, especially elastic, and stiffness largely determine the structure of the fabric and performance properties;

* have a given twist and be uniform in twist. Due to the fact that many properties of yarn depend on its twist, compliance with this requirement is of great importance;

* be clean, with a minimum amount of weed impurities and defects in appearance.

Violation of these requirements leads to increased yarn breakage during its processing and a decrease in the quality of products.

It must be borne in mind that the cost of raw materials in the cost of yarn is about 70-75% and the optimal choice of raw materials for the production of yarn of the required quality is of great importance.

Yarn is a finished product of the spinning industry and therefore its quality control, in contrast to the control of the semi-finished product, is more important. Each type of yarn must meet certain requirements that are written in state standards or specifications. However, defects (defects) appear on the yarn during its production for various reasons, reducing its quality. Special methods have been developed to assess yarn quality. The quality of the yarn is assessed by physical and mechanical parameters and defects in appearance. In addition, the quality of winding yarn on the package-cob, bobbin is evaluated.

Each group of yarn has its own standards. According to GOST 4.8-68, all types of yarn produced by the cotton method are divided into the following groups according to their purpose: for weaving, knitting and hosiery production; for textile haberdashery production (basic, weft, patterned); for thread production and technical purposes.

To ensure the production of high quality yarn, it is necessary to observe certain relationships between the linear densities of yarn and fiber. This ratio determines the number of fibers in the diameter of the yarn, which should be no more than 70-90.

An increase in the number of fibers in all cases has a positive effect on the quality of the yarn, so yarn intended for high quality fabrics should be made from a finer fiber. The correctness of the choice of raw materials is checked using the formula of Professor A.N. Solovyov, describing the relationship between the properties of cotton yarn and the properties of the cotton fiber from which it is produced.

Cotton fiber, according to GOST, is 7 grades selected, first, second, third, fourth, fifth and sixth grade. The basis for determining the grade of fiber is its maturity, strength, length, moisture content and contamination.

Cotton fiber is used to make fabrics, threads, cotton wool, gauze, knitwear, fishing tackle, ropes, drive belts, rayon, paper, tracing paper, tape for making explosives, various artificial materials that replace amber, bronze, copper, etc. From seeds cotton plants produce oil and other products.

The textile industry provides fabrics for the defense, chemical, machine-building, electromechanical, automotive, aviation and other industries, construction, transport, and agriculture.

2. Characteristics of the raw materials used

2.1 Classification of textile fibers and the concept of fibers

Textile materials are those materials that consist of textile fibers. These materials include the fibers themselves, threads, as well as products made from them.

Textile fibers are elongated flexible and durable bodies with very small transverse dimensions, of limited length, suitable for the manufacture of yarn and textile products.

Fibers are divided into elementary and technical. Elementary fibers are called single, indivisible into smaller ones, and technical - complex, consisting of several elementary, glued together. Both those and other fibers have a relatively limited length - a few tens or hundreds of millimeters.

A filament is an elementary fiber with a length of several tens and hundreds of meters.

Textile threads are thin, flexible and strong bodies of indefinitely long lengths, consisting of elementary fibers or threads joined together and suitable for the manufacture of textiles.

A textile thread obtained by twisting consecutive more or less straightened elementary or complex fibers is called yarn. The thread, which is obtained by connecting and twisting elementary filaments, is called complex.

There are a large number of different fibers in nature, however, in order to be used in the textile industry, they must have certain properties: first of all, significant strength, flexibility, a rough surface, and abrasion resistance. In addition to general properties - elasticity, strength, wear resistance, the ability to make up, etc. - various fibers also have specific properties, which determines their scope.

Based on their origin and chemical composition, textile fibers are divided into natural and chemical.

Natural fibers include fibers that are formed in nature without direct human participation and consist mainly of organic heterochain natural high-molecular compounds.

Chemical include fibers produced in the factory and consisting mainly of organic heterochain and carbochain synthetic high-molecular compounds and a very small part of their natural inorganic compounds.

Natural fibers are divided into three groups: fibers of plant origin (cotton, linen, hemp, kenaf, sisal, etc.), animal or protein (wool, silk) and inorganic, mineral origin.

Consider plant fibers.

Cotton is the most important textile fiber that covers the seeds of the cotton plant grown in hot climates. After the cotton has matured, the fibers along with the seeds are collected and sent to the cotton primary processing plants, where the fiber is separated from the seeds. Cotton fiber has a number of remarkable properties: great flexibility, tenacity, has a very small thickness, but great strength and wear resistance. In addition, the fiber is well dyed. The length of the fibers is relatively uniform and reaches 25-40 mm.

These properties make it possible to obtain the most diverse yarn from cotton fibers: from thick yarn for making coarse and various furniture and clothing fabrics to very thin yarn, from which thin elegant fabrics such as maya, cambric, marquisette or percale type fabrics are produced for technical purposes.

Bast fibers are contained in the stems, leaves or shells of the fruits of various plants. In the textile industry, mainly stem bast fibers are used, the most important of which is flax. In the domestic industry, flax occupies 95-97% of bast fibers.

Bast fibers are located in bundles in the bark of flax, hemp and other plants. To finish the fibers from the bark, the plants must go through a long natural lobe, then they are subjected to heat or chemical treatment, then they are crumpled and after that subjected to scutching. This process is very complex and lengthy.

The properties of flax and other bast fibers differ from cotton. They are strong, but coarser and thicker, especially technical ones. The length of the bast fibers is greater than the length of cotton, but has a greater unevenness. Therefore, thicker yarn is obtained from bast fibers than from cotton. Towels, table and sleeping linen, dress and technical fabrics are produced from high-quality linen yarn. Coarse linen yarn and their other fibers (hemp, kenaf, jute) are used to produce tare and bag fabrics, as well as ropes and ropes.

Natural plant fibers include wool and silk.

Wool is the fibers covering the skin of sheep, goats and camels. Distinguish wool natural, factory and restored. The first is obtained as a result of shearing animals, the second - when finishing animal skins and the third - when processing recycled woolen raw materials.

Wool fibers are longer than cotton, less durable, but more resilient. Due to this, woolen fabrics have a number of valuable properties - low wrinkling, wear resistance and drape, i.e. the ability to well maintain the shape originally given to the product from these fabrics. Two types of yarn are made from woolen fibers: cloth - thick, soft, with low strength, used for the manufacture of coat and drape fabrics, and worsted - thin, even, durable, used for the manufacture of dress and costume fabrics and knitwear.

Silk is a thin thread secreted by the caterpillar of the silkworm butterfly. Silk threads have wonderful properties. They are strong, even, resilient and have a pleasant appearance. To obtain a textile thread from them, it is enough to twist together several elementary filaments (fibers). However, the cocoons can only be unwound halfway. The other part forms waste, which is processed into yarn in silk mills. Light beautiful dress fabrics, as well as technical ones, are made from silk threads.

Asbestos is also a natural fiber.

Asbestos is a mineral fiber that makes up some rocks. Asbestos fibers are 16-18 mm long, so only thick yarn can be obtained from them. Asbestos spinning can be carried out both in pure form and mixed with cotton. Asbestos fibers do not burn, they conduct heat poorly, therefore they are mainly used for the manufacture of refractory fabrics, gaskets and insulation.

Chemical fibers include artificial and synthetic. All chemical fibers are supplied to textile enterprises in the form of staple-short fibers of the appropriate length or in the form of endless threads in a complex. Artificial fibers are obtained as a result of the processing of natural raw materials - cellulose, wood, cotton fluff and cotton waste.

The most common of the artificial fibers is viscose, which is processed in the cotton industry in the form of a staple 36-40 long. Viscose fibers are even, well processed, dyed, have a low cost, but are durable, especially when wet; are used mainly in blends in cotton, but also in pure form.

Moreover, chemical industry produce the following artificial fibers: acetate, triacetate, copper ammonia (in a small volume). All artificial fibers are high molecular weight organic compounds.

Synthetic fibers are obtained as a result of the synthesis of petroleum products, hard coal and natural gas. Glass fibers are made from soda-lime glass. Most synthetic fibers are high-molecular compounds (kapron, lavsan, nitron).

The most widespread of synthetic fibers is the polyamide compound kapron. This fiber has a high strength, it can be produced in various linear densities, its strength in the wet state almost does not change. Various dress and technical fabrics, knitwear are made from kapron.

Lavsan fiber is a high molecular weight polyester compound and is produced in the main form of a staple, but also in the form of a thread. It has good textile properties: high strength, elasticity, relatively high melting point. Lavsan staple fiber is most often used in a mixture with natural and chemical fibers, which gives the fabrics low creasing, wear resistance, and beautiful appearance. The most common fabrics are dress fabrics, for men's shirts (cotton-lavsan), half-woolen suits, and raincoats.

Nitron fiber is a polyacrylonitrile compound and is used in the main staple form mixed with natural fibers. Nitron, compared with nylon and lavsan, has less strength, but has wooliness. This property of it increases the heat-shielding properties and gives them a pleasant appearance. In its pure form, nitron is used mainly for the manufacture of technical fabrics.

characteristic feature synthetic fibers is their inability to absorb moisture, which is accompanied by the appearance of static electricity during mechanical effects on the fibers.

2.2 Physical mechanical properties fibers

The physical and mechanical properties of cotton fiber include: linear density (thickness), length, strength, elongation and elasticity, resistance to abrasion, bending, compression, torsion and sliding of the fiber along the fiber, hygroscopicity, color, electrical and thermal conductivity.

Linear density is one of the most important properties of a fiber. This value shows how much mass a fiber of a certain length has. Linear density is measured in units called tex.

Tex is the mass in grams per 1 km of fiber (yarn), or in milligrams per 1 m (g / km, mg / m).

The linear density of the fiber ultimately determines its transverse dimensions.

The more area cross section fiber, the greater its linear density. The density of cotton is 1.5 g/cm 3 .

The linear density of the fibers is very important. The strength of yarn made from fibers depends on the strength of the fibers themselves and on the forces of friction between them. And these forces will be the greater, the more contacts between the fibers in its cross section, which in turn depends on the number of fibers. Consequently, the thinner the fibers, i.e., the lower their linear density, the more they will be in the cross section of a given yarn and the stronger the yarn will be. On the other hand, the thinner the fibers, the finer yarn with normal strength can be obtained from them.

Fiber length is also a very important characteristic of cotton, which determines its quality. The longer the fiber, the more it comes into contact with other fibers in the yarn and the more difficult it is to pull them apart. Therefore, longer fibers can be used to produce a stronger yarn of the same linear density, or, on the other hand, thinner yarns with normal strength can be obtained from longer fibers. In this case, we are talking about some abstract fiber length.

The strength of a fiber is its ability to withstand tensile forces. To assess the strength, the breaking load is used, i.e., the greatest force that the fiber can withstand before breaking. The breaking load of the fiber is determined on dynamometers of the type ДШ-ЗМ2.

To compare the strength of fibers of different linear densities, not absolute, but relative strength is used. To do this, the breaking load must be attributed to the unit area of the cross-section of the fiber or its linear density. To assess the relative strength of the fibers, the breaking length of the fiber is used, i.e., such a length at which the mass of the fiber is numerically equal to its breaking load.

To assess the quality of cotton fibers as a raw material for the production of yarn, the uniformity of its basic properties is of great importance.

The uniformity of the fibers is of great importance for the production of yarn, since the more uniform the fibers, the easier it is to develop a uniform yarn from them, which in turn largely determines the productivity of its processing processes and the quality of the fabrics produced.

Important properties of fibers are also elongation and elasticity. When tensile forces are applied to the fiber, it lengthens, i.e., receives a deformation.

There are two types of deformation: reversible, which in turn includes elastic and elastic, and irreversible, or plastic.

Elastic elongation (elasticity) is associated with small changes in the distances between the particles of the polymers that make up the fibers, and immediately disappears after the load is removed.

Elastic - this is such an elongation (deformation), which disappears after the removal of the load not immediately, but over time.

Plastic (residual) elongation does not disappear even after the load is removed. Elastic elongation is associated with a change in the configuration and rearrangement of macromolecules of fiber polymers. Plastic elongation is caused by the fact that irreversible displacements over relatively large distances occur between the links of macromolecules.

Elongation of the fibers and especially elastic is a very valuable property. The more a fiber elongates under a given load, the better it will withstand sudden impacts. The greater the elastic elongation of the fiber, the better the fiber can withstand repeated loads and the longer they retain their appearance and properties of the product from it.

Of great importance are also such mechanical properties of fibers as resistance to abrasion, compression, bending and sliding of one fiber over another. The abrasion resistance of fibers is important for two reasons. First, yarn made from fibers with greater abrasion resistance will be better processed into fabric on the loom, where it is subjected to multiple abrasion. Secondly, a product (fabric) made of such fibers will have a longer wear life.

Resistance to compression is important for the transport of cotton, since its loose mass is pressed into bales.

The slip resistance of fibers is determined by their surface and the shape of the fibers themselves. In other words, the slip resistance depends on the coefficient of friction and the tenacity of the fibers. The larger these values, the greater the force must be applied to pull apart the fibers in the yarn. Therefore, when the yarn breaks, it will break only when the fibers break. If the fibers were perfectly smooth, i.e., friction forces did not arise between them, then it would be impossible to obtain yarn from them.

Cotton fiber has a relatively high coefficient of friction and high tenacity. Therefore, high quality yarn of various linear densities is obtained from cotton. Mutual adhesion of cotton fibers is facilitated by their crimp, which in mature fibers reaches an average of 70-100 twists per 1 cm.

Of the physical properties of fibers, the most important are hygroscopicity, color, thermal and electrical conductivity.

Hygroscopicity is the property of a material to change its moisture content depending on humidity and temperature. environment. Fibers contain a certain amount of moisture. With an increase in air humidity or an increase in its temperature, the moisture content of the fibers increases, and vice versa. If the fiber has this property, then it is hygroscopic. This remarkable property of fibers largely determines the hygienic and performance properties of fabrics.

The thermal conductivity of cotton fiber is low and it is the lower, the looser the mass. This property is used in particular to make cotton batting.

When dry, cotton fiber has a low electrical conductivity, which makes it possible to use cotton fabrics as insulation. With increasing humidity, the electrical conductivity increases. Under mechanical influences on cotton, electrostatic charges arise, which make it difficult to process it. Therefore, the factories are fighting this phenomenon.

3. Characteristics of production technology

3.1 The concept of spinning

In the textile industry, cotton, linen, wool, natural silk and chemical fibers are processed into products. The set of technological processes used to process these fibers into yarn of a certain thickness and strength is called spinning.

The set of machines and processes by which fibers are processed into a particular type of yarn is called a spinning system.

3.2 Spinning systems

To obtain yarn from a mass of fibers, cotton must go through several processing operations. Cotton is supplied to the spinning mills in a compressed form. After pre-treatment at primary processing plants, cotton is cleaned from large weeds and seeds. However, it still contains a large amount of small impurities, as well as damaged (short) fibers. Individual fibers in this mass of cotton are entangled, linked together in the form of tufts or with weed impurities. Therefore, the task of all cotton spinning operations is the subsequent cleaning, loosening and mixing of the fibers, and then combing them in order to parallelize, align and form a gradually thinning product (canvas, tape and roving), in order to twist the ribbon of parallel fibers at the final stage and obtain yarn set properties.

At the first stage of processing, the cotton is loosened, mixed and cleaned. To do this, the mass of cotton from the bale is fed by the feeding grates of the loosening units to the working bodies. Here cotton is affected by needles or large, easily removable impurities. Weed impurities through the grate enter the carbon monoxide chambers, and the loosened mass of cotton by pneumatic or mechanical feeders enters the following sections of the loosening and scutching unit. Cotton comes out of the loosening and scutching unit in the form of a canvas - a compacted layer of cotton in the form of a roll. The canvas must have a certain thickness. The cotton fibers in the canvas are in a chaotic state in the form of shreds and, in addition, the cotton contains a certain amount of small, hard-to-remove weed impurities.

The next operation that takes place on the carding machine is called carding. Cotton enters the machine in the form of a canvas or loosened mass (canvasless feed). On a carding machine, the mass of fiber is first exposed to the teeth of the saw blade and rollers, and then to the thin needles of the headset of the working bodies of the machine. As a result of this, cotton shreds are combed into individual fibers with simultaneous cleaning of tenacious impurities and short fibers. After combing, a ribbon is formed from a partially parallelized thin fleece (comb) of fibers, which is a long loose round semi-finished product with a diameter of 1-3 cm. The tape itself is uneven in thickness.

To straighten the fibers and align the tapes, complex several tapes are produced, and then the folded product is thinned to the thickness of the original tapes. As a result of the addition, the tapes are aligned, since the thickened sections are folded into thinned ones. With the subsequent thinning of the product, the fibers are straightened and oriented relative to the axis of the tape. Thinning occurs due to the stretching of the product when it passes through pairs of cylinders pressed against each other (exhaust pairs) and the speed of the previous pair is less than the next.

The task of the next transition is to thin the thread to a size suitable for making yarn. This operation is carried out on roving machines, where the thinning of the product occurs on the draft device. The product of the roving transition is called the roving. This is a thin ribbon, which is given a slight twist to give a minimum strength.

The last final operation of yarn production takes place on the spinning machines. Here the product - roving - is stretched to the thickness of the yarn, twisted, and a thin and strong yarn is obtained. The spinning process is carried out either on ring spinning machines with spindles and runners, or on spindleless pneumo-mechanical machines.

The described sequence of processing cotton in spinning industry called carded (ordinary). This system produces most of the cotton yarn. Table 1 shows the processing steps, processes and equipment used to process cotton fiber into yarn using a carded spinning system.

There is also combed, hardware and melange systems. Carded and combed systems have two spinning methods each: ring and pneumomechanical.

The hardware system is currently beginning to be replaced by a card system, which uses rotary pneumo-mechanical or aerodynamic spinning machines.

The melange system, in principle, repeats the card system, but has additional transitions associated with cotton dyeing.

The combed system produces yarn of low linear density or medium, but with increased strength. For the production of such (combed) yarn, fine-fiber varieties of cotton are used. Compared to carded, combed yarn is stronger, more even, smoother and cleaner. To obtain such a yarn, a combing transition is additionally added to the process. At this transition, the fibers are combed with a comb (combing), as a result of which short fibers (toil) are combed out of the product and removed. The sliver leaving the comber consists of long, even, well-straightened fibers, and therefore the yarn is of high quality.

In order for the combing process to take place without unnecessary loss of long fibers and their damage, the latter must be sufficiently straightened, and the product entering the machine must be uniform. Therefore, the tape from carding machines undergoes two additional preparatory operations: joining into laps of 16-20 tapes and stretching (thinning) of the laps.

The combed system has a processing sequence presented in table 2.

According to the hardware system, loose fluffy yarn with low strength is produced, lower requirements are imposed on the quality of this yarn. As raw materials, fibers of various lengths, a large amount of waste (waste), as well as mixtures of their various fibers are used. In the latter case, loosening and scutching of the components are sometimes carried out separately, and then mixing occurs with simultaneous oiling of the fibers. A characteristic feature of the apparatus system is that the thinning of the product after carding does not occur in the process of its stretching, but by dividing the fleece (comb) into separate tapes and obtaining a roving from them with a slight rolling of the tapes. Carding with this system is carried out on carding units, which include 2-3 carding transitions and a roving carriage. The resulting roving is transferred to the spinning machine. In the roving obtained on the carding unit, the fibers are slightly straightened, which determines the loose structure of the yarn.

According to the melange system, a yarn is produced, consisting of a mixture of cotton dyed in different colors in one color. With this system, the loosened fiber is dyed in the apparatus, dried and fed back to the opening machines. After that, the fiber is mixed, scutched and all subsequent operations of one of the spinning systems described.

3.3 Loosening and scutching

The purpose of the processes and the requirements for them.

In bales, the fibers are strongly compressed and therefore tightly connected to each other and with weed impurities. Fibers, even in one bale, are uneven in their properties, the more they differ in different batches that make up the mixture. To prepare cotton for further processing, it is subjected to loosening, cleaning, mixing and scutching. Thus, the purpose of the loosening and scutching transition is as follows:

1. separation of the compressed mass of fibers from bales into small pieces;

2. isolation of weed impurities and fibers unsuitable for spinning;

3. fiber blending;

4. creating a uniform flow of cotton in the form of a canvas or loose mass.

There are certain requirements for this process:

A high degree of cleaning of cotton from weeds, good mixing of the fibers, no burning of the fibers and the creation of a product (canvas) of greater uniformity, since it is difficult to obtain a ribbon and then good quality yarn from uneven canvases.

The division of the mass of fibrous material into shreds is achieved first by plucking it with the needles of the gratings, and then by hitting the working bodies of the loosening and scutching machines. The removal of weed impurities also occurs by blows of the working bodies on shreds of cotton and their suction with air. The mixing of the fibrous mass occurs due to the uniform supply of the components of the mixture (cotton from different bales) to the machines, the repeated transfer of the cotton mass in the chambers of the machine or the imposition of several layers one on top of the other. To create a uniform flow of cotton on scutching machines, there are special mechanisms.

General arrangement and principle of operation of machines for the loosening-scutching transition.

Depending on the nature of the processed cotton, the loosening and scutching unit may include machines of various designs and in various combinations. There are units for processing medium-staple cotton (carded spinning system) and fine-staple cotton (combed spinning system).

For the carded spinning system, there are currently two types of units: the new single-process automatic cotton-feeding unit and the old manual-fed unit.

On the new unit, the bales are completely loaded into automatic feeders, the previously loosened cotton enters continuous mixers, where fibers of various batches are mixed, then further loosening and cleaning of the cotton from litter occurs in the inclined cleaners and the inclined cleaners with a condenser. The flow of cotton is directed to the bins of the scutching machines.

3.4 Carding

After loosening, mixing and scutching, the cotton mixture still contains some weed impurities, the fibers are not completely separated from one another, they are mixed up and form separate small pieces. Further scutching does not allow the fibers to be completely separated and the cotton to be prepared for further technological operations in the manufacture of yarn. Therefore, the next transition is the process of carding cotton.

The purpose of the scratching process and the requirements for it

In the process of combing, the cotton tufts are separated into individual fibers; cleaning of cotton from weed impurities remaining in it and partial removal of short fibers; partial straightening and parallelization of the fibers and, finally, thinning of the product and formation of the ribbon.

The fulfillment of these tasks occurs due to the use of a special headset in carding machines - a serrated metal tape with teeth or an elastic tape with flexible thin needles. Interacting with each other and with the fibrous mass, the working bodies, covered with the specified headset, pull the fibers from the shreds, separate them from weed impurities, including tenacious ones, and arrange the fibers more or less parallel in the output product - the carding sliver.

The card transition has a great influence on the further process of yarn production, since it is here that an almost finished semi-finished product is formed. In addition, this process ends the removal of weed impurities, and all the remaining fibers are already in the yarn. Thus, the main task of the carding process is to obtain a product - a carding sliver with a minimum amount of trash, with a high degree of separation of the complexes and good straightening and parallelization of the fibers, and most importantly, a high evenness of the sliver.

At spinning mills, mainly flat carding machines are used, which can be divided into three groups: large (normal) size carding machines of the ChMS-450 type, small-sized carding machines of the ChMM-14 type, and new double-drum carding machines of the CMD-4 type, providing high quality sliver . Roller carding machines are also used.

General arrangement and principle of operation of carding machines

On carding machines of any type, with continuous carding, the process consists of three successive operations: thinning the product (web) and removing large weeds, combing the fibers with serrated and needle-like surfaces, and removing the batt and forming the ribbon.

We will show the device and the principle of operation of the carding machine using the example of the ChMM-14 machine, which has received the greatest distribution in recent years (Fig. 3.3). The canvas is placed between two canvas racks and the canvas roller 2, rotating, rolls out and feeds it to the feed table 3 under the feed cylinder 4. The feed cylinder feeds the canvas to the receiving unit, where it is sequentially developed by drums - receiving 5 and transmitting 6 and rollers of the working pairs - the worker 7 and the cleaner 8. The fiber from the transfer drum 6 under the action of the teeth of the saw blade passes to the main drum 9 and enters the combing zone: the main drum is the caps. As a result of the interaction of cotton with the teeth of the tape of the main drum and the needles of the caps, there is an intensive separation of fiber complexes into separate ones, as well as their parallelization and partial straightening. Hat fabric 10 consists of 74 needle-coated hats (slats), of which 24 are in operation.

The combed fiber from the main drum 9 passes to the doffing drum 11. The web is removed from the doffing drum by roller removal 12 and passes through the crushing rolls 13, under the action of which weed impurities are crushed and then fall out of the cotton. Next, the web enters the forming funnel 14, where the tape is formed, then into the exhaust device 15.

The machine is equipped with self-stops that stop it when the tape thins or breaks, the cover of the tape stacker is opened, the space between the tape guide and the feed rollers is clogged with tape. In addition, the machine is equipped with a dust-removing device with dusty air suction and a mechanism for removing fumes from under the machines.

3.5 Pre-spinning (making a roving)

The purpose of spinning is to obtain a thinner product from the tape, called a roving.

A roving is a thread that has a loose structure, a relatively high evenness and a certain thickness. Roving is made from ribbons.

The tapes are heterogeneous in their structure and not uniform enough in thickness. The thickness of the tapes compared to the roving and yarn is very large. In this regard, during the development of the roving of the tape, a number of machines are used, on which the gradual leveling and thinning of the product by 5–20 or more times, achieved by folding and stretching, continues. At the first transitions of the roving machines, the fibers are oiled with an emulsion. Lubrication increases the slip of the fibers when drawn, reduces their electrification and increases the yield of the roving due to the reduction of fiber breakage and waste.

Previously, due to the lack of high-drawing devices, successive processing of the semi-finished product on three or four roving machines was used to obtain fine yarn.

Moreover, from the first (pelvic) machine, a thick roving was obtained, and from subsequent transitions, distillation, thin and extra-thin. Nowadays, thanks to the use of high-drawing devices on roving and spinning machines, it has become possible to produce yarns of small and medium thickness, with a single transition of roving frames or a single-process spinning method directly from the tape.

3.6 Spinning

The purpose of spinning is to obtain yarn from the semi-finished product (tape and roving) entering the spinning department. The essence of spinning consists in thinning the incoming semi-finished product to a given linear density, in giving the resulting product (yarn) the required strength by means of torsion, and in forming a certain package by winding: a cob or bobbin.

Spinning, as the final stage in the production of yarn, has certain requirements.

The spinning process must provide high quality yarn that meets the technological and consumer properties.

The process should be as continuous as possible. With high breakage, there is a decrease in machine performance and an increase in waste. Yarn produced at high breakage on a spinning machine is poorly processed in weaving.

Depending on the methods of thinning and product formation (spinning methods), ring or spindle and spindleless spinning machines are distinguished. Ring spinning machines are divided into main and weft. On the basis of the machines, the yarn is wound on paper cartridges into packages (cobs) with a mass of 60-100g, the yarn from the cobs is rewound into bobbins. On weft machines, the yarn is wound on wooden spools and used in this form directly on the weaving loom.

In recent years, ring spinning machines have appeared that provide a high degree of thinning of the product (drawing up to 60 or 100). On such machines, the semi-finished product can come in the form of a strip, bypassing the roving transition. Thus, ring spinning machines can be roving (ordinary) and without roving.

Of the spindleless spinning machines, pneumomechanical action machines of the BD-200 type have found practical application in industry. Rotary spinning machines (pneumo-mechanical), mechanical, electro-mechanical and hydraulic spinning methods are also being created.

Spinning machines of any spinning method are designed to thin the product (ribbon or roving) by drawing it out on drafting devices of various designs, providing a draft from 10 to 100; forming strong yarn from a sliver using a twisting mechanism - a spindle and a runner on ring machines and a pneumatic chamber on spindleless machines and winding the yarn on a package - a cob (spool) or a cylindrical bobbin.

3.7 development of the spinning plan

The choice of spinning system, i.e. The choice of a certain range of machines on which the raw materials will be processed to obtain yarn is closely related to the development of a spinning plan.

The spinning plan is the main document of the spinning mill, which determines the yarn production technology. It contains basic data that determines the threading of machines of all transitions to produce yarn of the required linear density and quality. The spinning plan determines the capacity of all machines and their number.

Drawing up a spinning plan and the choice of technological equipment are carried out in parallel, since the technical capabilities of the machine affect the parameters of the spinning plan. On the other hand, changing individual parameters of the spinning plan sometimes necessitates changing the machine selection made earlier.

The spinning plan is developed according to the following scheme:

1. selection and justification of the linear density of all semi-finished products, the number of additions and extracts carried out on machines of all transitions.

2. selection and justification of the speed of product release on all machines, as well as the speed of the spindles on the roving and spinning machines.

3. calculation of the theoretical productivity of the machine, output, spindle, kg / h.

4. calculation of the output of one machine, output, spindle and other parameters.

To justify each parameter of the spinning plan, it is necessary to use technical literature, as well as know the experience of advanced enterprises.

One should strive to maximize the use of the capacities of the exhaust devices, to obtain high productivity of the equipment by increasing the rotational speed of the exhausting organs of the machines. The draft and speed of the equipment should be chosen within reasonable limits, in which the quality of the product and the level of breakage in spinning would ensure the economical use of raw materials, maximization of the yield of yarn from the cotton blend, sufficiently high service areas for the main production workers and, ultimately, the minimum cost of yarn.

Optimal, i.e. The best spinning plan is one that requires the least capital investment for equipment, provides the best working conditions, and ensures high product quality.

Literature

1. Fundamentals of technology of the most important industries: In 2. /Ed. I.V. Chentsov. "The highest school", Mn., 1989.

2. Bukaev P.T. General technology of cotton production. "light and food industry", M., 1981.

3. Smelova N.A., Kazaryan M.3., Loktyusheva V.I. Technology of cotton production, M., 1992.

4. S. Lothar, H. Manfred. Technology of preparation of yarn for weaving and knitting production. M., 1989.

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State participation in the development of the industry

The situation must change radically, and the government is already beginning to take steps to improve it. In particular, a strategy has been adopted aimed at developing light industry in our country until 2020.

In turn, the state has seriously taken up the problem of domestic production: enterprises are supported both in the field of financing and subsidizing the purchase of raw materials, and in the issue of technical modernization of production. This allows us to think that changes are inevitable, and small improvements can already be seen today, in 2014.

Textile industry in Russia: current state

Today the situation is such that the share of imported products in the textile market in Russia still prevails. However, compared with the past decade, significant changes in the direction of its reduction are noticeable. Over the past 10-12 years, the Russian light industry has been growing at a record pace, and at the moment, domestic textile production is estimated at about 70-85 billion rubles.

The industry employs about 700 large and up to 5 thousand medium and small enterprises, the total volume of production of which is about 200 billion rubles. At the same time, this segment is still underestimated by Russian investors, which means it's time to enter the market.

An average textile enterprise is now 20-30% cheaper than a food enterprise with the same level of profitability. Those entrepreneurs and investors who today pay attention to this line of business, in a few years will be able to reap a good "harvest" with the right approach to business. We will talk further about how to competently organize the production of textiles in our country.

The main questions on the organization of textile production

Of course, it is too early to say that today this is the most profitable business in Russia. However, there is no doubt that the return on such production can be quite high, and in the long run. This direction is suitable for strategic investors and entrepreneurs looking to the future.

Therefore, today it is important to approach the issue of organizing textile production from a completely new position, relying on innovation and relevance. What points should be considered when creating your own enterprise from scratch? The key factors are:

Organization of the design department. In the modern world, the work of these specialists is indispensable. One of the main conditions for high demand for your company's products will be the relevance and originality of fabric design. Moreover, the development of new textile collections should be carried out regularly, and not one-time. Therefore, the plant/factory must necessarily have its own department with a group of designers working together and under the direction of its owner.
Organization of direct production. This issue requires no less attention. Where and by whom fabrics will be made depends on the availability of sufficient investment. So, some entrepreneurs create their own production shop from scratch, others place orders for finished designs between home workers. In addition, many fabric manufacturers in Russia place their production in Chinese factories (due to the availability of cheap labor and good technical equipment).
To organize your own textile production, you need to obtain an appropriate certificate for your products, think over and plan the technology for manufacturing fabrics, purchase modern equipment and hire staff (from cutters and seamstresses to an accountant).
For the sale of products, it will be necessary to think over its transportation. If the enterprise is large, then you will need your own fleet. Small factories/shops for the production of textiles use the services of third-party companies.
Like any commercial activity, the textile business requires advertising. There should be several effective channels: your own website on the Internet, advertising blocks in specialized magazines, your own booklets with fabric samples. A good (and even obligatory) addition will be participation in exhibitions organized for representatives of this market segment. This will allow you to make useful contacts in your field, expand dealerships and retail chains for more effective implementation products.

All these points are important and, moreover, obligatory steps in building a truly successful textile production in modern Russia. None of them can be neglected if you really want to organize a highly profitable business that can not only survive, but also function effectively for a long time.

Textile production technology and types of fabrics

Above, we examined the main issues that are important for every entrepreneur who decides to engage in textile business in Russia. Now let's dwell in more detail on the actual manufacture of fabrics. This process includes the choice of assortment, the production technology itself and necessary equipment for its implementation.

Types of fabrics and their features

All existing textiles are divided into large and smaller types. In general, fabrics can be divided into natural and chemical. The former can be of plant origin - cotton, linen, jute, etc., and animal - silk, wool, etc. The latter are divided into synthetic, artificial and mineral.

Natural fabrics of plant origin

Cotton fabrics are made from a mixture of cotton and other fibers. This category is very common and has the highest demand in the segment of natural materials. They differ depending on the density and type. This is the well-known denim, coarse calico, chintz, cloth, batiste and others. Linen fiber is less elastic than cotton. Fabrics made from it have a rough surface and a more rigid structure, and their production is more expensive.

Textiles of animal origin

The basis of silk production is the silkworm. This type of textile is characterized by elasticity and strength, and therefore is in great demand in production. It is used to obtain materials such as velvet, satin, etc. Russian manufacturers, as a rule, take sheep's wool for the manufacture of woolen fabrics. It retains heat well, does not absorb odors and moisture, does not wrinkle well.

chemical fabrics

Man-made fibers are also widely used in the modern textile industry. Viscose and acetate fabrics are light and smooth, have an attractive appearance and good hygienic properties. Polyamide materials are durable, wear-resistant, but they absorb fat and repel moisture, and therefore are unhygienic. Polyester is in great demand, as it is used for the production of clothing.

Textile production technology

The key moment that determines the entire production of textiles and the organization of its individual processes is the fabric manufacturing stage itself. It consists of several basic steps, which we will now look at:

Training. Obtaining yarn from fibers by processing them - loosening, scutching, combing.
Spinning of hard fiber. A textile thread is obtained from disparate cotton fibers.
Direct production of fabric on looms.
Final finishing procedure. As a result of this stage, the fabric acquires such properties as strength, softness, smoothness, waterproofness and others.

This is a general description, and each of the above steps has its own nuances.

Necessary equipment

At the same time, a large number of various equipment is involved in the fabric manufacturing process at all steps. From the mandatory for the organization of a full-fledged production process, we can distinguish:

roving machine;
loom;
weft winding machine;
winding machines and automatic machines;
warping machine;
grinding machines;
glue cookers;
punching machines;
knotting machines.

As you can see, the list of equipment is impressive. Therefore, a fully functioning textile production requires a large area, several warehouses (for raw materials and finished products), as well as a sufficient number of employees to service it and organize effective management.

Conclusion

To date, the textile market is developing at a fairly good pace - at least 25% per year. This niche still needs competent entrepreneurs and large investments to organize modern equipment and the same approach to the implementation of production.

Textile manufacturing - highly profitable business in Russia and will remain so for the next 7-10 years, and possibly longer. If you have not decided on the segment of capital investment and business organization, then now is the time to enter the textile market.

It might be useful to read:

Modern technologies in textile production. Technological process and equipment for the production of fabric State participation in the development of the industry

Fundamentals of fabric production

Spinning

Synthetic yarn

Weaving

Threads and weaves

Fabric finishing

Final finishing

Equipment

Loom

sizing machine

rolling machine

Dye line and printing machines

Washing and measuring machines

Scutching and cleaning and shaking machines

Carding and spinning machines

Video: Cotton, linen, hemp - features of the production of natural fabrics

fabric business

Business Outlook

Business organization

Workshop room

Raw material supply channels

Fabric production technology

Necessary equipment

Business registration

Marketing and distribution channels

Marketing

Business costs and payback

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Conclusion