Camera for photo chock. Wisdom of photo chute. Important characteristics when choosing

Andrey Mikhailov

In this article, we will talk about the choice of photographs for shooting mammals and birds by rejecting and shooting from shelter. Outside the consideration, the choice of equipment for shooting small animals on the scale is larger than 1/5 of the natural value and for automatic shooting by the method of alarming the camera (photocapkan).

Optimal format - 24x36 mm (35 mm film, type 135). Serious equipment for smaller formats is represented only by digital (yet more expensive) camera models for the same lenses intended for the 24x36 format.
Larger formats - 4.5x6, 6x6 and 6x7 cm are attractive in that it allows you to obtain the same format of the imprint or printing illustration of a smaller increase in the slide / negative and as a result of this to get the best quality. However, this equipment is on average twice as much more expensive. Compared to a narrow equipment of the same class, wide cameras are usually less quick when shooting, they are harder to direct on sharpness, most lack autofocus, more than the time interval between pressing the trigger button and the actual triggering of the shutter, etc. etc. For a photohota, the use of wide hardware makes sense only when shooting from a tripod with flashes and then when it is possible to accommodate the shooting object closer than it usually happens when shooting on a narrow film. The fact is that the size of the image on the slide / negative depends only on the ratio of the focal length of the lens and the shooting distance, and therefore, in order to take advantage of a wide format, it is necessary to take 500 or 600 mm in a lens of 300 mm instead of a lens or located at 1.5-2 times Closer to the shooting object.

In general, in the initial set of equipment for the photo choke, a 24x36mm mirror chamber with a telephoto lens is mandatory, and it is not necessary to think more widely - it can be thought of it later, as the technique of shooting from shelter is improved.

When purchasing the equipment, the photographers usually begin with a camera with a regular lens and already then begin to think about choosing interchangeable lenses.

In the event of a photohoot, this leads to a sad situation when there is a camera with the functions you like, but there is no lens compatible with it, which would allow to apply these functions when shooting a remote moving object, which is an animal to freedom. At the same time, the differences between the lenses that create the image are of greater importance from the point of view of the consequences for the picture quality than the differences between the cameras, which although they provide a different level of convenience, but they offer the same opportunities in principle - to fix the image created by the lens Film or digital media.

For successful photobotics on animals and birds on initial stage We need a lens C. focus distance 300 or 400 mm and Lights 4 or 4.5 for chambers of 60x -0s release or at least 5.6 for the latest models. Such a lens with good optical characteristics and in a modern frame that supports the necessary functions (depending on the type of camera - internal focusing without moving the entire optical block, a small minimum shooting distance, a jumping diaphragm, electrical or mechanical transmission of a diaphragm value to the chamber for proper work Automatics, automatic installation of the diaphragm values \u200b\u200bof the camera automatics, autofocus, the possibility of manual shaking of sharpness without turning off autofocus), as a rule, more than the camera itself, sometimes much more expensive. In addition, the lens may be harder to find, especially if the lens interface system with the camera does not apply to the number new Systemswho are in the course of professionals.

Examples of systems balanced systems Lens-camera:

Especially the sad situation turns out to be when the camera is calculated only on lenses that set the camera aperture aperture to the camera, and it fails to find a rules for it. In this case, when shooting a non-standard telephoto lens auto mode Exposure installations are completely lost. This applies, for example, to the Kiev-15 cameras, Canon AE-1, Canon AE-1PROGRAM, Canon T-50.

Taking into account the total above, the most correct will choose a couple of telephoto lens, the chamber immediately (taking into account the capabilities of existing outbreak systems for this camera, which require a separate conversation), or, in the absence of such an opportunity, simply acquire a good lens, and then to it Camera. A regular lens with a focal length of 50 mm or a regular zoom 35-70 or 28-80 for a photo choke is not needed at all. Of course, the photo adapter will need a lens for shooting landscapes and, possibly, road genre scenes, but he, in my opinion, should not interfere right choice Basic lens. In general, if the choice of equipment for the photohoot is rigidly limited by the means, the purchase of a standard / wide-angle lens can be postponed for later or replace it with the simplest analog. All modern cameras in professional configuration are sold and sold without a regular lens.

So, for the beginning, the lens is needed with a focal length of 300 or 400 mm and a luminosity of 4-5.6 depending on the camera. Why are these parameters? As the focal length of the lens increases, its sensitivity to the vibration of the camera is growing rapidly when shooting and getting sharp pictures is extremely complicated. Lenses with a focal length of 500 or 600 mm if they are peculous as used by professional photographers for shooting sports and wildlife lenses 500mm / 4.0 and 600mm / 4.0, weigh from 4 to 6 kg, which makes them unsuitable for shooting from the butt, they Require a heavy tripod, make it difficult to move the photographer when working in the field, and are usually very expensive (new from $ 6000 to $ 10000, used outdated models from $ 2,000 to $ 4,000). Less test lenses (500/8.0, 600 / 8.0) will require shooting with longer excerpts, which will make a sharp snapshots with almost unattainable for novice photo adapter. After purchasing the necessary experience, you can experiment and with focal lengths of more than 400 mm. The lenses with a focal length of less than 300 mm will not give enough large image to obtain a high-quality picture from those distances from which they have to shoot even from a well-known shelter, with the exception of individual particularly favorable places on remote islands and national Parks Africa and North America.

In the lenterns with a variable focal length (zooms), one advantage is a great flexibility in cropping, the ability to enable more or less from the same shooting point in the frame, everything else is cons.

Zuma, as a rule, less inspired and has several worst quality characteristics of an image than a lens with a constant focal length, especially at the maximum of its focal length dipase. And if for zoom is 300 or 400 mm - the maximum focus, it is almost always on the photo chute and will be used on this maximum focus. For all the years, photohota classes I can remember two or three situations in which I used or could use zoom not at the maximum focus. Such situations are well remembered, and probably almost every photo shit with ease will remember a couple - but only.

With a larger maximum focus, the zoom will again be heavy and roads. However, Canon, and Nikon has long been removed from production with its zoys longer than 400 mm, and now they cannot be found - almost all of them redesigned cinemas under their cameras.

In all zooms, with the exception of individual very professional and very expensive designs, resolving power (the ability to draw thin parallel lines on the film, for example, a fur fur or a feather beard, so that they are distinguishable in the picture) on the long focus much worse than the short And than lenses with a constant focal length for equipment of the same class. According to the tests of the magazine photo and video for 1999, the difference in the quality of the image between tele-objects with a constant focal length and zoys at the long end of their focal length range is significantly larger than the difference between "native" optics from the main manufacturers of mirror cameras and independent optics manufacturers. In addition, in inexpensive autofocus zooms, there is usually no mount for shooting from a tripod, too small and uncomfortably located ring of manual focus and there is no possibility of manual correction of focus without turning off autofocus.

Yes, and the composite advantage of zooms under the clue is not so comprehensive. It is not random to students entering the photography of photography, recommend removing the lens with a constant focal length. Let's consider the various aspects of the composition and the role of zoom in them:

- the choice of the size of the layout of the main object and the cropping in accordance with this without moving the photographer along the optical axis of the lens, i.e. It seems to not run closer - yes, the zoom helps;
- Finding the point of shooting with which the object is projected on the optimal background - zoom can only help in combination with active "work work".
- inclusion in the frame of a larger or less background area in a more or less large scale at a constant scale of the main object - the zoom can only help in combination with the active "work of the legs";
- the choice of a higher or lower point of shooting - the zoom can only help in combination with the active "work of the leg" (and / or hands when it comes to crawling or climbing);
- Choosing the moment of the best mutual location of mobile objects - the zoom can only help in combination with active "work of the legs".

Thus, it turns out that, as opposed to what seems at first glance, the advantages of the zoom can be used mainly when the photographer can arbitrarily approach the shooting object and move around it that in the case of the photo chute is usually not true.

A few more points that should be considered when choosing a lens - secondary, but not in all situations they will turn out to be secondary.
The lens should have a clamp for fastening on a tripod. Fastening for the camera with a long heavy telephoto lens is not suitable - if a tripod socket of the camera and does not bother under his weight, each touch to the focusing ring will shock the entire design, making the frame of the unrear and frightening animals, and not every tripat head will end it if the center of gravity It is far from the point of attachment. The clamp will come in handy not only for shooting from a shelter tripod, but also to fix the lens on the image of the photomage when shooting the attachment method.
It is desirable that the front of the lens does not rotate when focusing, and better and did not move longly. This will allow less scare the object of shooting. The smaller mass of the details moved when focusing will increase the velocity rate to sharpness (both automatic and manual), especially in large heavy lenses. In addition, autofocus lenses, the rotating front part is facilitated, so autofocus lenses with the unwilling front part inspire more confidence in terms of mechanical strength.

Over time, for shooting from shelter, you can get a separate lens - more light and / or longer-focus (and therefore heavier).
For some situations, shooting from shelter, when it is difficult to provide for the size and number of shooting objects (for example, in a drain or on a sub-shielding platform), it may be useful and zoom.
But at the beginning of the creative path, the photocutman usually spends more time in the search and cluster mode, and the first lens should be suitable for cooling, and for shooting from shelter, without loss of quality. This versatility will be relevant and then, during shooting in remote places, where the equipment has to bear on themselves.

When tugged on open spaces, where much light, for example, on the shores of the reservoirs, and when shooting from the shelter, at openly arranged, but hard-to-reach nests and additives, there are situations when a very long-focus lens (600 or 800 mm) would be useful, albeit luminosity Total 1: 8 or 1:11. To buy a separate lens with such a small light and carry with you constantly for such cases it is hardly worth it, but in addition to the main lens, wearing a teleconverter with you, double the focal length (and laying lights). It is inexpensive (or not very expensive compared to the main telephoto lens) optical device, if necessary, is installed between the lens and the camera. In addition to reducing the Lights, it reduces the qualitative characteristics of the image, however, it matters both the image quality created by the original lens and the quality of the converter. Therefore, to count on that a cheap converter in combination with a cheap zoom will make a miracle, not worth it. However, a good converter in combination with a professional lens with a constant focal length can give quite decent pictures in those situations where it would be too far from the subject of shooting.

Paying proper attention to the main component - lens, you need to pay attention to several signs, significant when choosing a camera.

The camera does not necessarily have to be immediately the most professional model, because Electronics obsolete very quickly, and if you are not an experienced photographer with extensive experience in working with mirror chambers, many possibilities of the professional model you will not need for a long time, and during this time it may have time to be outrage. In favor of professional models, their large mechanical strength and better protection against atmospheric conditions - in field conditions is important. On the other hand, the camera for the photo choke should not be the most entry level:

- There must be the possibility of manual exposure setting with the excerpt range at least 1/15 to 1/1000 seconds.
- If there is an exposure automation, it should support "creative" modes (at least a diaphragm priority, and better if the priority of excerpts).
- If the camera is autofocus, it should be able to manually select the autofocus mode (one Shot / Servo) and manual selection of one active sensor if there are several of them.
- It is important that the camera viewfinder show full frame Or a frame in the boundaries of the slide frame, otherwise you will constantly face the problem of "extra legs" - the appearance of a distracting part around the edges of the frame.
- The viewfinder must be light enough for the selected lens, especially if we are talking about lens with a luminosity of 5.6. It should be noted that the use of extender rings or teleconverter will additionally darken the image in the viewfinder.
- The descent of the shutter must be soft enough to avoid unnecessary shockers at the time of shooting and related blur.
- There must be a nest for a trigger, mechanical or electric.

When shooting two types of film (negative and slides, or color and black and white, different sensitivity), you will need a second chamber that must be fully compatible with the first, that is, all the functions function should work with it. It is desirable that the control of both cameras was the same so that the different position of the buttons is not confused in the survey points, when everything solve the splits of a second.
In addition, when a long trip, it is imperative to take with you at least two cameras in case of the output of one of them, in order to disappoint all the shooting.

Recently, along with mirror cameras, shooting on the film, appeared and capable of competing with them in quality and price digital mirror modelsUsing the same lenses. Many photographers who travelery thousands of dollars a year on the film are already switched or transferred to the figure. This process is currently limited, in addition to the cost of re-equipment, the fact that for many editors is still more convenient to view two dozen slides on the light table, rather than open on the computer two dozen files of eighteen megabytes and try to see their contents on the monitor. And before we are talking about the use of digital cameras for a photohunt, it should be noted that for shooting less than 100 films per year of an amateur is an expensive pleasure, and the investment of the same means in a quality lens and shooting at the slides will definitely be the best results.

It is not by chance that we are talking about slides. All over the world, photographers who take nature, if they did not move to the figure, remove exactly the slides. And not only because they want editors and those technical requirements For printing. Looking at the color negative, the photographer is much more difficult to assess its results (exposure optimality for the transmission of the game of light and the depth of the shadows, achieved by the color reproduction, the subtleties of the captured expression "persons", the effect of the arrangement of color spots on the perception of the composition, etc.). Solid control of controlles leads to essential costs that reduce the advantage of the cheaper of a negative film and worthy of better use. And operator settings printing machine Can generally reduce all the captivity of the photographer in the field of exposure and color reproduction.

In addition to the main equipment, for the photo oh, you will need some additional photographic accessories and consumables: Butt or shoulder stop for shooting with hands, tripod, trigger, shooting tent, batteries and some other things.
When shooting at night or in a dense forest, flashes will also need.

Depending on what means we have, you can choose the equipment of one of the three technical and price groups:

- M42 - mostly Soviet and GDR-WSC equipment 60x - 80s

Threaded fastening lenses (M42). Pressure jumping diaphragm or more often lenses at all without a jumping diaphragm - In the latter case, the diaphragm ring with each cycle "pressing to sharpness - shooting" can be necessary to turn the hand. In the best models - froze the exposure through the lens, but the automatic exposure is usually absent. You can accommodate the old lens from the pavilion chamber with a homemade tube. Autofocus No ...
Price Range: Lens + Camera from 30 to 300 US $

- Equipment S. manual focus 70s - 80s

Bayonet fastening lens, jumping diaphragm. On the best models of lenses - an internal focus that allows you to bring from infinity to 3 meters by several light movements of the girl's left hand, while the hand itself is steadily holding the lens. On the best models of cameras - several modes automatic installation Exposure, and at the same time the possibility of manual installation of all parameters individually, automatic exposure with a flash with a measurement through the lens, motor consoles (from one and a half to 5 frames per second) ...
Price Range: Lens + Camera from 300 to 2000 US $

- Modern autofocus systems

Price Range: Lens + Camera from 400 to 12000 US $

1. Types of cameras
2. Important characteristics when choosing
3. Canon EOS 750D
4. Canon EOS 700D
5. Canon EOS 100D
7. Pentax K-70
8. Nikon D3300.

IN modern world Few people acquire wrist Watch In order to use them as an indicator of time - for this it will be used and always under hand is your hand. A similar situation occurred with cameras - why to acquire a separate device if modern mobile phones cope with the task not worse?

But there is separate category Consumers, which today will continue to give preference to independent cameras, namely - lovers of photography, professional and beginners. For the latter, we prepared this article in which we will try to understand the question: what camera is better to buy for a novice photographer?

Types of cameras

First, we define the views of the existing cameras:

Soapsy. The advantages of these devices include their cheapness and compactness, and the minuses should include a narrow, limited functionality and the lack of ability to change optics.

Mescal (System) with removable optics. It is easy to understand that from previous chamber data is distinguished by the ability to use a third-party lens.

Mirror. Manual settings and high-quality matrix, replaceable optics and excellent shooting results in all conditions in the presence of the necessary skills - all this you will get, sacrificing the compactness of the camera and paying a solid amount for it.

It is the last category of cameras, namely, a mirror, and today's article will be devoted. We remind you that the purpose of this material is to help the reader in choosing a camera for a novice photographer, and therefore before advise the list of cameras, we will look at what parameters it is worth paying attention to when choosing your first chamber, and what errors should be avoided. Let's proceed.

Important characteristics when choosing

First of all, you need to look at the following parameters:

Matrix size. The main impact on the result of your cooperation with the camera will be the matrix. Consisting of a multitude of photosensitive elements of the chip can bury all your hopes on high-quality picturesIf you do not give her due attention. We do not recommend Taking the device with a full-frame matrix, which is equipped with a technique for professionals, and we advise you to start with more modest solutions with an incomplete-sample (sprinkled) matrix.

Matrix resolution - The second key indicator, but should not choose the camera exclusively by the number of megapixels. It must be remembered that the resolution of over 16 MP is required for the shots of the super-brook format, and therefore may not be useful for your tasks.
The sensitivity of the matrix or iSO's working value. Another indicator about which you should think about buying a camera. If you still do not know what kind of pictures, and under what conditions do you plan to get, then we advise you to choose a mirror with the highest possible ISO value - it will help make the image obtained in low lighting high quality.

Manual control. Since we are looking for a camera, though beginner, but a photographer, then there should be no choice in front of you - only manual control. Correctly set the aperture, exposure, white balance - the first thing to personally learn how to make the first steps photographer.

The possibility of video shooting. Now almost all the seals are equipped with this option, so that any overpayment for the ability to record speech videos is not there, and it will never be superfluous.

Size and weight. Apparent at first glance, the secondary value of this item can be misleading. It is quite likely that you will often have to wander on the most simple routes with the camera on the neck - it is worth it to take care of whether you can withstand this or such inconvenience will make you return before the conceived. Although the highest quality photographic equipment has the property of being both largest and heavy.
Convenience and ergonomics. This item is rather included with the overall sensations from working with the camera. It happens that the excellent camera simply does not lie in the hand or the buttons on it are not the way you would be comfortable. You should not overheat yourself - it is better to find a suitable device personally.
Price. The latter on the list, but not the importance item. We are trying to find the best camera for beginners, and therefore the models that will be considered belong to the category of budget. It is not worth spending huge amounts of top equipment as soon as you have an idea to become a photographer. It is not enough that you still will not be able to take advantage of a small product of the functional of top devices and trite you can quickly disappear desire to shoot, and the camera will lose greatly in price.

All these items are extremely important for choosing the appropriate specific technique. But there is another rule, the ignoring of which will inevitably lead to unsatisfactory results and negative emotions from shooting on new Camera - An even more important component of photographic equipment than the "carcass" of the camera itself is optics. Therefore, remember: if you laid a certain budget on new MirrorThe device and lens must be fit into it. And now let's look at the best deals in 2017 in the segment of good, but inexpensive mirror cameras.

Canon EOS 750D.

Characteristics:

Sensor Type: CMOS APS-C (Crop)
Sensor resolution: 24.2 mp
Bayonetype type: Canon EF-S
Maximum video resolution: 1080p

TO strong sides This chamber does not doubt the magnificent 24.2 megapixel sensor, which is enough for a novice photographer. The image quality will be difficult to spoil even with a large desire - high-performance and reliable system Autofocus will help in this. The built-in Wi-Fi module with NFC is all like more expensive Canon family models, including a great rotary LCD display.

That is a little upset, so this is the battery capacity, for long-term seats in the place where the outlets are not available, you will have to take care of the purchase of an additional battery, but the beginner photographer is unlikely to deposit so long sessions of the photo choke. A good camera for beginners - "Carcass" will cost 30,000 rubles, you can find good offers on the market with a kit lens about 35,000 rubles.

Canon EOS 700d.

Characteristics:

Sensor Type: CMOS APS-C
Sensor resolution: 18 MP
Bayonetype type: Canon EF-S
LCD display: 3 inches, 1,040,000 points, swivel, touch
Duration of continuous serial shooting: 5 frames per second

Very similar, but older and, accordingly, the budget model. Visually to distinguish from 750d it is almost impossible, and therefore you will again get the best ergonomics and an excellent LCD in your class, in this segment canon gives odds to competitors from Nikon in these aspects.

At the minuses should be immediately attributed to the outdated sensor, dated again 2010, and largely inferior in performance more modern counterparts. Professional will easily discern pictures made on this and more modern model, but a newcomer will need a lot of time and labor before he achieves such heights. Therefore, as the starting unit is a good choice. This model It costs 30,000 rubles already complete with the lens, but if you plan to use the first chamber long time, It is worth a little to add and purchase Canon more modern generation.

Canon EOS 100D.

Characteristics:

Sensor Type: CMOS APS-C
Sensor resolution: 18 MP
Bayonetype type: Canon EF-S
LCD display: 3 inches, 1,040,000 points, swivel, touch
Duration of continuous serial shooting: 4 frames per second
Maximum resolution: 1080p

And this is perhaps the best choice for those whose finances are rigidly limited. At the time of its appearance, this chamber was the smallest mirror in the world, which also caused sympathy of miniature girls-photographers.

The sensor here also does not shine technologically, but for the first mirror - it is quite good. All Canon's branded bonuses are present here, and fewer buttons on the machine and slightly cropped functionality will be new than good.

The quality of the pictures, of course, will not be able to compete with colleagues with 22.4 or 24 megapixel matrices, but we remind you that your eye has learned to catch the difference, you will need time. But the price without a doubt pleases - for 25,000 rubles you can buy a camera complete with a kit lens and immediately be ready for shooting. The truth is worth remembering the capacity of the battery, it, like the camera, is pretty small. Best option With budget constraints.

PENTAX K-70

Characteristics:

Sensor Type: CMOS APS-C
Sensor resolution: 24.2 mp
Bayonetype type: Pentax-K
LCD display: 3 inches, 921,000 points, inclined
Duration of continuous serial shooting: 6 frames per second
Maximum resolution: 1080p

Pentax understand its secondary in the market of camera manufacturers, and therefore make focus on the ratio of price and quality than will undoubtedly please beginner photographers. All-weather chamber protection, which Canon and Nikon offer on expensive professional devices, is offered for a reasonable amount.

Users marked the excellent autofocus system, which at first makes much easier for work. Cons came from the camera name - you will be available to a very limited set of lenses. In general, this chamber from the point of view of the available functional and the proposed additional features is the most productive of the list, and therefore its price, about 45,000 rubles for the "carcass", should not be surprising.

Nikon D3300.

Characteristics:

Sensor Type: CMOS APS-C
Sensor resolution: 24.2 mp
Bayonetype type: Nikon DX
LCD display: 3.2 inches, 921,000 points
Duration of continuous serial shooting: 5 frames per second
Maximum resolution: 1080p

Perhaps the best camera from the list. The sensor is comparable to more expensive brand models intended for enthusiasts, and the absence of a smoothing filter makes the image clear and sharp. This is especially good for beginner this camera by the presence of a built-in textbook, which will help to comprehend the basics of photography.

By minuses include the absence of a built-in Wi-Fi module and a swivel display, which are praised by Canon models. The camera can be purchased from 28,000 rubles for the "carcass", which for its characteristics is a very good offer.

We hope, thanks to this article, you will be easier to choose a camera for beginner and enjoy photographing, and it is possible to make it the art of your profession.

Rarely who in our days is engaged in a photohoota. And in vain. In the former times of the photo octo, there was very popular hobby, although not every photographer could do it really. Special design from the mirror photo apparatus "Zenit", lens with a very large focal length and butt as a gun so called - a photo clip. All this was packaged in fairly large sizes of CFR and weighed a few kilograms. Yes, and it was worth it seek oh as expensive.

Photohout is a very exciting business and interesting. Especially a photo oohot on birds. This topic will be devoted to our today's article.

First of all, it should be said that birds are the creatures sensitive and frightened. That is why you will have to be patient. And we also recommend that we take spare charged batteries for the camera on the photo chute and insert a large container memory card into it. Or maybe even take a spare card. You will have to remove very much. Why a lot? Didn't you guess? Bird will never positive you. You will have to take pictures, adjusting to her behavior. So - do a lot of pictures. In order to then choose the best. Well, if, as they say, one of the two or three hundred taken pictures will be useful. Moreover, useful - this does not mean the perfect. Useful - it's just a picture of the past, so to speak, the first round of the competition. Some preliminary casting.

What camera is preferable?

The mirror camera for the photo choke on the birds, as you understand, is more suitable than the camera is compact, simply speaking, soap. Zerackalkalka is much more perfect, it has optics of a better quality, which is important for this type of photography - after all, almost always in the process of processing pictures they have to cada significantly.

The lens for the filming of birds is needed, of course, long-focus. Its focal length should be at least 350 millimeters. Well, and if you have no such lens yet, you should not do from this tragedy. Photoshop will help you to cut everything too much in the frame and leave only the most important thing - directly the bird itself.

If you do not have the mirrors, and you are the owner of just the "soapbox", it is also not very upset. Compact cameras usually have a very large variety of zoom. True, there are several minuses. First - image quality is worse due to a small matrix. The second - viewfinder usually does not happen to soap. And on the display it is very hard to watch birds. In conditions of strong lighting on the street - Birds, we are photographing on the street - the image on them is almost not visible.

How to set up a camera for filming birds

Little and moving birds, well, for example, sparrows or cinkers, you need to take pictures on short exposure. From 1/800 seconds and less. Birds that are bigger than the crows, for example, or pigeons, are not so smart, they are less mobile. They can be photographed and with an excerpt of 1/125 seconds. But do not forget that if you are shooting in the mode of exposure priority, then the camera is automatics in order to align the exposure, the diaphragm size itself will increase itself. And this will inevitably lead to a decrease in the depth of the sharply depicted space.

If you still decide to shoot birds with long exposure, in order to avoid lubricating the image, you will have to install the camera. And do not forget to enable image stabilization mode. Otherwise, lubrication will be inevitable.

All is ready? Photographing!

In order to engage in photography on birds, it is not necessary to get into the forest or equip a serious expedition to hard-to-reach and exotic places of our favorite planet. We are not parrots in the environment of their natural habitat want, and our favorite sparrow, pigeons, shaks and other birds living next to us on the city streets, in parks and squares. This is later you may go to Africa. And you need to start at home. Exotic feathers and in the zoo can be placed. When shooting in the zoo, try to choose such shooting points so that the rods or cells of the grids fall into the frame. Well, in extreme cases, give their presence to a minimum. These elements very spoil such pictures. In some cases, the Almighty Photoshop will help you in this matter. Learn to remove from the frame unnecessary and interfering. You can do this with the help of cropping, that is, trimming of all extra on the edges, and you can also conduct more serious retouching of the image. About this read other articles.

Well, if you decide to do the real photohoota, piffosing birds in their natural environment, then you, as we said today at the beginning of this article, you will have to stock up with considerable patience. And turn on the full capacity of your creative thinking.

Before you start taking pictures of birds, watch them carefully. Take a look at how they move, how they behave. Try to study their habits. Perhaps watch photos of these birds made by other authors. Read something about the birds you are going to take pictures.

Prepared in this way, proceed in fact. First of all, you will need, of course, find a bird. Make it happens sometimes not at all. Finding an object of shooting, wait, the point when the bird gets used to your presence, will not pay for you special attention. Maybe wait long. And this option is also possible that your expectations are not fully successful. Bird will fly away ... Get used to it from the very beginning. We have already warned you about this today.

Here you go. Wait? Soothed a bird? Got used to you? Go to the next stage. Select the most interesting and winning point of shooting. Chose? Everything can be removed. Press the trigger button!

If you decide to photograph the bird in flight - then remove on short exposure. In this case, the bird itself will be shown in the picture clearly, and the background will be blurred.

Those photoelers, in the apparatus of which there is a "sport" mode, you can say lucky. In this mode, the camera automatics itself includes exposure priority. That is, the shutter speed you are manually installed, and the automation picks up a diaphragm to it.

If you are working not a compact camera, but a mirror, then the birds are best photographing, as we have already spoken, a long-focus lens. At the same time, we recommend turning on the tracking autofocus mode (AL SERVO). This mode automatically adjusts focusing in the event of a sharp change in the position of the shooting object, in our case - a moving bird. Those photographers whose cameras do not have such a function, we can recommend to take advantage of a little cunning. Focus your camera lens for a certain distance (in this case it will be better to install it on a tripod) and ... wait. Wait for the bird to decide to respect you and sit down on that twig in which you focused. Yes, of course, to shoot, you need to have enviable patience. Well, what to do? As they say, and who is easy now? We said from the very beginning: the photographing of birds is a complex and troublesome business. But after all, interesting, right?

In ancient times, when we were all young, the Soviet photographers used special glory to have a photo room, consisting of a rifle butt, Zenit camera and a long-focus lens Tair-3FS. The thing was expensive, heavy and terribly uncomfortable in work. Nevertheless, the "photo champion" used sustainable demand. It was still necessary to "get". In a free sale, this kit appeared only in the early 80s, when the quality of Soviet cameras decreased so much that most experienced photographers switched to the equipment of German production - the camera "Practice" and Pentacon.

I remembered the "photo chapel" only in order to talk about the interesting genre of photos - animalist, filming animals in wildlife. We used to call this genre with photofool. A good word - there is no aggression in it, as in the original word "hunting".

Most of us have a photohote associated with the shooting of a long-focus lens from a long distance. But it is not so. You can attribute three types of creative photography at once. Namely, photography of remote objects from a long distance and using long-focus optics. Macro shot - photographing from a minimum distance of wildlife objects with increasing and using special optics, providing maximum sharpness and image detail. And underwater filming of the inhabitants of the seas and freshwater reservoirs.

We will not talk about the underwater photo oohunt now - we will not speak it for brackets, because this type of photography requires special equipment and equipment, as well as special skills. Focus only two types of photochetics - on the shooting of remote live objects and macro shot.

By itself, the filming of wild animals and plants is extremely fascinating. Remember how you were filmed during a trip to the sea. Luxury tropical flowers, wonderful succulents, a park squirrel, which is not completely afraid of people, arrogant beach cat (in Egypt, for some reason full of full, and in Turkey, on the contrary, you need to search) . All this is a photohoot. Inadequate or targeted, but without the use of special equipment.

It is this holiday, an example convincingly shows that for the occupation of a photofool, the cumbersome "photo chapel" is not needed. I do not need any special photo equipment with expensive optics. There is enough ordinary amateur compact - if, of course, the photo ohota is only a fleeting passion or the opportunity to grab the image of wildlife along the memory.

It is quite another thing if the photo chute was carried away. And you do not mind focus on this hobby. Then you have a straight road to the photomagazine to change the old camera or supplement it with a good camera for a photo choke.

But first - a reservation. Not only cameras with long-phocus optics are suitable for the photo octot. Let's not forget about macro shot. Photographing small flowers and insects with a maximum increase of no less exciting than birds or forest animals in their natural habitat. And difficulties here are no less. To insect, to get a good picture, it is also difficult to get it hard, as well as the industrial protein. Bee, fly or butterfly take a picture even more difficult, since these insects are rarely in a fixed state. They are constantly moving. And we need to "persuade" them to frozen for a few seconds in a spectacular pose. But what is the result!

So - universal devices for telescopic shooting (that is, to shoot remote objects) and no macro shot. Here "or-or". Or hyperiness, present photo (only without stupid butt). Or "Photomicroscope", a camera with a lens, which is able to focus on an object located in a half-bellimeter from the front lenses.

But compact cameras, even hyperzums - cameras with zoom lenses of increased multiplicity - are far from universal, according to manufacturers. The zoomed lens gives the best picture at the "short end" - with minimal values \u200b\u200bof the focal length. In other words, the zoom works better as a short-focus lens than as a long-focus. Therefore, there will be a set of all the needs of the photochnik with a kit with a set of chamber and three-four replaceable focus-focal lenses (that is, lenses with a fixed focal length). Complete optics of a fans passionately, a wide-angle "pancake" (the lens of the minimum physical dimensions with a minimum focal length). The lens with the "normal" angle of view (that is, in the value shown to the film chamber - 45-50 mm). 100-mm (again in the value given to the full-frame film) "Portrait" - he is the same macro lens with increased sharpness of the image (cold-proof) and the ability to focus on near-locked objects. And "Channel" - a lens with a focal length from 135, up to 300 mm (in the value shown in film).

What camera and, accordingly, what brand of optics to choose? What camera is more convenient to shoot on the photo oxide - a mirror or compact with interchangeable lenses? Or is it limited to a hypendle with a harsh lens?

There is no definite answer. It is believed that the mirror is universal and most convenient for the photo choke. But it is not so. Working with a mirror viewfinder requires acute view. Ourselves sLR Cameras Momens and heavy. Optics to them, especially long-phocus, turns the tool of photobotics into a "portable warmness".

If you do not strive for uncompromising pictures, then the possibilities of the compact camera can be enough for your eyes.

What does the uncompromising quality of the pictures mean? What does it give? Ability to print snapshots in maximum resolution on paper exhibition formats. But if necessary, print a picture very good quality It is from a 2 megapixel original. Only the need for this occurs extremely rarely, if arises at all. In most cases, we have enough on-screen resolution - to view pictures on a computer monitor or household TV.

Generally, meaning technical characteristics Photo equipment is greatly exaggerated. There is no dispute, remove the flying bird using a full-frame mirror chamber with a long-focus "gun" is easier than a modest amateur compact. But the main problem does not solve the technique.

What kind of problem is it? On the choice of an angle. How do we remove the objects of wildlife? Birds - bottom up. Forest animals - top down. And you need to remove from the plane in which these creatures live.

Flying bird, filmed from the height of its flight - in the profile - looks like rare trophies of photo chock. And removed from the ground - a banal photo, what millions. The same applies to, say, hedgehog. To make a spectacular, interesting snapshot, you need to be lazy for the land. And they should not frighten the animal to their presence. Let it look directly into the lens. This will be a real portrait of hedgehog!

In macro shot other problems. Good picture Bees or flower can be close-up only if the photographer cope with focusing. The minimum depth of field is important - to get the effect of the surround image. This is the first difficulty. Second - lighting. Leaning over the object, we shand it with themselves and their camera. And thus distort the natural light picture. The snapshot turns out to be lifeless, artificial, deliberately staged.

There are actually more problems than it may seem. Photohoot is a very difficult genre. But it is only worth starting. And the first thing to try the possibilities of your old faithful compact, which was with you everywhere, where you were. Try to shoot them bugs and dragonflies by using automatic macro mode. Direct the lens on the flying bird. Nothing terrible if it does not work. Do not burn the gods.

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