Sailing schooners blueprints. Sailing ships, model drawings free download. Ship ranks in the sailing fleet

Part 2. Model drawing.

We start working on the model with the choice of a prototype and scale.
These two factors are interrelated, since the size depends on them. future model and, as a result, the amount of materials for its construction.
You can take on the construction of a model of a multi-gun battleship on a scale of 1:50, which will allow detailed and high-quality detailing (for example, a gun a couple of meters long in the "50th" scale will have a length of 40 mm). But it should be noted that the model itself will be released in length and height of more than a meter.
To build a model up to 50 cm long, you can scale it down to 1:150 - 1:200. But then you will have to make a lot of the smallest details and elements (the length of the same gun will be reduced to 1 cm), which will inevitably affect the quality of detailing and the appearance of the model as a whole.
Therefore, to build a high-quality model of a small "desktop" size, it is desirable to choose small prototypes, which will allow, while maintaining the declared size of the model, to choose a larger scale and, accordingly, the possibility of better detailing.

On the other hand, the choice of model scale may be dictated by available materials.
For example, Vitus Bering's packet boat model "Saint Peter" was created on the basis of an existing hull from another model, which dictated the choice of a scale of 1:180.

This is the way I will go when building a new model.

1. SELECTION OF THE PROTOTYPE MODEL.

The hull of the aforementioned packet boat is carved from a single block of wood.
I will use the same technology to build a new model.

For the body of the future model, I intend to use a bar from the box packaging of the refrigerator.
This bar has a section of 48 mm by 35 mm. This means that the body of the future model should be no more than 50 mm wide (including skin).

Having previously selected the scale of the future model 1:100, I calculated that the width of the prototype hull along the midsection (in the widest cross section body) must be within 5 meters. This parameter is inherent in small one-two-masted sailboats such as yachts or schooners.

After reviewing the drawings of such ships on the Internet, I opted for the two-masted topsail schooner "Hannah" with the hull parameters: length 17.5 m and amidship width - 5.2 meters.

On the net, you can find specialized sites that offer the user ready-made drawings for building a model on a certain scale. However, in order to correctly download and print them, a special program is required.
In addition, it is not always possible to get ready-made drawings - sometimes you have to use drawings from books or magazines.
The official drawings of the schooner "Hannah" have not been preserved.
When building a model, modelers usually use drawings and descriptions from Harold Hahn's book "The Colonial Schooner 1763-1775".
I took these drawings as a basis for the development of working drawings of the future model.

Often, drawings taken from books or magazines have to be adapted to work with them.
I downloaded the images containing the drawings and printed them out on plain A4 sheets of paper.
The drawings did not turn out to the scale indicated on them. In addition, different sheets differed in scale from each other.

It was necessary for me to reduce all the sheets to a single size, and then bring this size in line with the chosen scale of the future model.

2. REDUCING THE DRAWINGS TO A SINGLE DIMENSION.

Choosing on each of the printed sheets the same element, the length of which can be measured (in my case it was the length of the keel on Sheet 2 = 182 mm), I compared it with the length of the corresponding section on Sheet 1 = 97 mm.
Using the resulting magnification factor of 1.88, I was able to complete the missing elements on Sheet 2 (spar, rigging).
Then, similarly, using the heights of the frames shown on Sheets 2 and 3, I obtained a reduction factor for Sheet 3 = 1.15 and brought the image from Sheet 3 in line with the main drawing on Sheet 2.

3. CALCULATION OF THE SCALE OF THE DRAWING.

The so-called "scale bar" is printed on Sheet 1, which I carefully, using a factor of 1.88, transferred to Sheet 2, which became an "intermediate" drawing of the future model.

"Scale bar" sets the ratio between the length of the unit of measure in real life and in the scale of the drawing, i.e. one division of the "scale bar" in the drawing, in this case, corresponds to 10 feet (3000 mm) of the actual length of the vessel.
Measurements and calculations showed that the "intermediate" drawing I received was made on a scale of 1:76.
Based on this, I was able to calculate the dimensions of the elements of a real ship.

Knowing the actual width of the ship (5168 mm) and the required width of the model (45 mm), I calculated the scale of the future model - 1:115.

Based on these calculations, I drew the final "working" drawings for building the model.

The choice of a prototype for the construction of the model fell on a sail-steam two-masted schooner<Святой мученик Фока>absolutely random. At that moment, when the decision was made to create something flying, driving or floating, the closest thing was the magazine<Моделист Конструктор>#9 for 1986. This number offered for consideration in addition to<Фоки>one of the Tupolev torpedo boats, a racing boat of the F3E class, a method for calculating a home-made ALS was proposed, a couple more articles on the topic of cords. By the way, two articles on sailing were found in the same issue:<Такелаж - как настоящий>and<Ванты для парусника>.
With all the wealth of choice, as they say, there could be no other alternative. In addition, the sailing section of ship modeling until that time was undeservedly ignored by me.

A bit of history.

Starting to study the materials of the mentioned issue<МК>I found out, at least for myself, that it turns out<СВ. МУЧ. ФОКА>(this is exactly what the inscription of the name of the ship looked like on its sides, lifebuoys, helm and ship accessories) this is the ship on which G.Ya Sedov intended to reach the North Pole in 1912-1914.
Built in 1870 in Norway, the ship was intended for sea fishing in the Arctic Ocean. When launched, it was named<Гейзер>and sailed under this name until 1890, then changed owners several times from among the fur merchants, and was assigned to the Murmansk scientific and commercial flotilla.
On July 10, 1912, with the money granted personally by the emperor, Sedov charters and equips<Фоку>for an expedition to the North Pole. The idea of this expedition did not find support from the Main Geographical Directorate and the Naval Ministry, so the government refused to finance this project. The situation was saved by the creation of a committee to raise funds for the expedition. The committee was headed by the publishers of the leading newspapers.
Probably, it was this fact that was the reason that during the 2nd, tragic for the researcher wintering on Franz Josef Land, Sedov renames<Фоку>in honor of the newspaper editor<Новое Время>. The ship was named<Михаил Суворин>. On the ship under this name, having burned everything that could somehow burn in the furnace, the expedition returned to Arkhangelsk.

based on the materials of the magazine Modelist-Constructor and information from the depths of the global network

Model building

From the very beginning it was decided to build a running model. Propeller, steam engine, winches to control sailing weapons. These Napoleonic plans, unfortunately, had to be cut exactly by the steam engine. Not all at once, as they say :). Otherwise, we are moving towards the intended goal.

Part 1. Corps.

To create the body of the model, a typesetting method was chosen. This method combines the simplicity technological cycle, and the possibility of using available materials, does not require the creation of additional equipment, does not require tedious and dusty fitting and fine-tuning the case according to patterns: well, I don’t like this procedure.
Having scanned the picture of the theoretical drawing of the hull, I import it into AutoCAD. I put a grid on the image of the body projections, determine the actual scale from it and bring it together with the picture to the scale of the model being made. Next, I manually outline the contours of the frames, the contours of the longitudinal sections, the contour of the keel and stems (Fig. 1).

Rice. one

When stroking, I use a Spline line, as anchor points I use the points of intersection of the contour with the horizontal grid lines. In this case, each nodal point of the spline will lie in the corresponding plane of the drawing of the longitudinal sections of the hull. If everything is done carefully, this will eliminate errors when building a 3D model.
In principle, this is not necessary. And AutoCAD is optional, and 3D is optional. Whoever is not interested can immediately proceed to transferring the outlines of the frames and keel to plywood:
So I bet on<ровный киль>contour of stems and keel. Yes, I forgot to mention, outlining this line with a spline, I also put the nodal points at the corresponding intersections with the longitudinal planes.
I install the frames with the mesh in their places. I connect the corresponding nodal points of the frames along the grid in a horizontal plane with a spline, starting from the stem (Fig. 2). As a result, I get the contours of sections in the longitudinal plane. I compare them with a theoretical drawing. Match up? Great! We go longer. Something does not match - I'm looking for a reason.

Rice. 2

It turned out, theoretical drawing a little crooked, it needs to be corrected. There is only one criterion for the correctness of the contour at this stage, all lines of the 3D model must be smooth and harmonious, any bevel, any dent will be noticeable. To fix, I use the simultaneous movement of the nodal points of intersecting splines only along the line of junction of the planes of these splines, otherwise the structure may break like a house of cards :)
I figure out how thick the skin will be, and by this amount I narrow the contours of the frames with the Offset operation. Everything, then I work with the resulting contours of the frames. The lines of longitudinal sections are no longer needed, and they can be removed, but I leave them for beauty.
I connect the extreme upper points of the frames with a spline, it turns out a 3-dimensional contour of the tank and the gunwale of the bulwark. From the top view, I transfer the upper contour of the transom.
Starting the stage of drawing the internal contours of the frames (Fig. 3), I had to decide on some design parameters of the future hull. The width of the futoxes and the height of the keelson were chosen based on sufficient structural rigidity, the presence or absence of a deck beam was determined by the need to provide access to the actuators. Deck back knees needed to provide structural rigidity were drawn<на глаз>. The thickness of the top-timbers in the area of the bulwark was determined according to the drawing of the top view and the front view, in the area of the poop superstructure -<на глаз>.

Rice. 3

The line of the forecastle deck, waist, superstructure, poop and poop was taken from the image of the section of the vessel along the vertical longitudinal axis. The contour of the deck was obtained by connecting the points of intersection of the inner contour of the top-timbers and the upper contour of the beams. Next, I expand the deck contour to a horizontal plane and get<выкройку>decks. I do the same with the transom, turning it to the appropriate plane.
I printed out the contours on a plotter, so I arranged everything on one sheet (Fig. 4), of course, you can print on A4 formats with subsequent gluing.

Rice. 4

I cut the keel with stems and frames from a sheet of 4 mm plywood. There were no problems with the frames, but the thickness of the keel had to be at least doubled. The fact is that after the installation of the frames on the keel and the broach of the three stringer belts, the torsional rigidity of the structure turned out to be insufficient, and before I had time to glue a certain number of planks of the skin, I had to constantly control the withdrawal of the hull, constantly control<пропеллер>. Hence the moral: until sufficient rigidity of the hull for bending, torsion, stretching and shear is ensured, you cannot remove the hull from the slipway, under any pretext :)
Pine slats with a section of 4x4 from the sides of the frames and 3x3 below deck were used as stringers. The gunwale and the forecastle deck were cut from a single sheet of 1 mm plywood.
Because at the beginning of work with the model, I did not plan to take photographs - there is no photograph of the slipway and the stage of assembling the skeleton. On fig. 5 I tried to somehow rehabilitate myself. :)

Rice. 5

The same millimetric plywood was chosen as the material for the rough sheathing. Strips 6 mm wide were cut on A4 guillotine office scissors. The length of the slats turned out to be 350 mm, so when sheathing the hull almost 700 mm long, it was necessary to use two slats per belt. Plywood was cut in such a way that out of its three layers of veneer, two extreme ones were cut across, and the middle one was cut along. The result was rods with better flexibility than 0.5 mm thick veneer rods. Thus, it was not necessary to resort to steaming the rails.
Sheathing was carried out in several stages. At the first stage, a section near the keel and bulwark was sheathed (Fig. 6).

Rice. 6

To form the transom behind the last frame, a piece of very high density hardened foam was glued. You can get such material by injecting a portion of mounting foam into a container with water. Solidification occurs very quickly and the density of the resulting material is quite high.
I first gave the glued piece of foam the shape of a transom, glued the transom itself, and then turned the foam from the bottom side. Figure 7 shows this section of the hull with several rows of rails already applied. The assembly was carried out with the help of Moment-Stolyar glue and tailor's pins. Pins made of steel wire 0.4 mm thick were stuck in and out with small pliers. By the way, despite the rather serious bending of the rails in the transom area, the pins stuck into the foam did their job quite well.

Rice. 7

The deck was also cut out of millimetric plywood along the contour of the virtual scan.
It was possible to outline it according to the hull under construction, but I decided to check the accuracy of the assembly and the percentage<попадания>. Fortunately, everything came together quite accurately. On fig. 8 and 9, the joints between the slats of the skin and the fixation of the glued deck are clearly visible. For the convenience of installing the deadwood and processing the underside of the deck, I decided to install part of the skin at the end of these works.

Rice. eight

Rice. 9

Rice. 10. This is how the feed looks from the inside. The foam is cut to the level of the poop deck.

Rice. 11. Gluing the gunwale in the stern area.

Rice. 12. Hatches are cut out for access to servos: the model is running.

The cutout for the stern tube (Fig. 13) was made using a straight grinder with an extension cable. As it turned out, a very useful machine, and undermine the rail, and drill a groove, and with the help of an extension cord, you can crawl into the most inaccessible places of the model.

Rice. thirteen

Rice. 14. Fitting. Experienced ship modellers can easily recognize in this tube the knee of the telescopic antenna of the radio receiver :)

My second serious mistake after<пропеллера>. Having not fully thought through the plating technology and the order of the rails, I was faced with the fact that I had nothing to attach the rails of the middle belt in the area between the first and second frames. In the case of the stern, everything was visible and clear from the very beginning, but here I had to be smart. Deciding to use the foam again (Fig. 15), I almost ruined everything. I poured the montage into the niche and joyfully grabbed the camera. The most interesting was waiting for me ahead. The foam hardens when it absorbs moisture, so the hardening comes from the surface and the deeper, the longer. This expands the foam. At the beginning, expanding, it pushes out a rather soft, airy mass, and as the foam hardens, it becomes a very bad piston. The consequences of this process became obvious to me when the slats around the holes began to change their natural deflection, I had to literally scoop out the semi-hardened mass and not move away from the model until the growth stopped completely<раковой опухоли>:) A wet compress on the nose of the model and a glass of tea as a sedative to the creator helped a lot.

Rice. 15.

Rice. 16. This is what it looked like after the polyurethane foam epic

The final stage of the rough sheathing comes down to trying on, fitting and grinding in a certain number of wedges and grooves. As a result, in Fig. 17 side of the body looks like a bristling hedgehog.

Rice. 17

Rice. 18. This is how I got the laying of the rails in the cheekbone area.

I covered the inner surface of the case with two layers of 0.03 mm fiberglass on epoxy resin. Epoxy resin for the first layer was diluted with ethyl alcohol in the ratio of one part of the finished resin and one part of alcohol. The wrong side of the deck was covered until the slats were completely laid. Dark stripes at the joints of the rails (Fig. 19) are glue that has changed its color<Момент-Столяр>. This happens when this glue interacts with the adhesive layers of plywood laths. On the outer surface, the adhesive traces were wiped off with a damp sponge, so such stripes are not visible there.

Rice. nineteen

Then sanding and sanding, and then again sanding and sanding. The case turned out to be quite even, and the removal of the surface for painting was not required, so the surface was not particularly clean. Basically, a line was drawn along the keel and stems. Putty<Пиноколор>Acrylic water-borne, imitates the color of wood, so it can be used on fine veneer sheathing.

On fig. 20 putty with birch color.

Rice. 21. I begin to sheathe the superstructure of the poop.

Rice. 22. Another view with an already sheathed superstructure. It is clearly seen that it will be necessary to add frame simulators along the bulwark.

Rice. 23. Pasted mizzen partners. A stern tube and puddles of hardened resin are visible.

Rice. 24. It was necessary to draw out the edging of hatches very carefully. A chute is formed into which a sealing cord is laid.

Rice. 25. Here, this is how it looks from the outside. As a sealing cord, a rubber cord with a diameter of 3 mm was taken, which is widely used by fishermen.

Well, at the end of the story about the construction of the schooner hull<СВ. МУЧ. ФОКА>Here is a list of the materials I used:

five-layer plywood 4 mm thick;
three-layer plywood 1 mm thick;
pine slats 4x4 and 3x3;
pine slats 25x4;
fiberglass 0.03 mm;
rubber band, diameter 3 mm;
thin-walled brass tube, inner diameter 4 mm;
PVA glue<Момент - Столяр>;
epoxy glue<ЭДП>;
water-borne acrylic putty<ПИНОКОЛОР>;
pins, stationery clothespins.

Specifications:

Hull length overall	19.4 m
Case width maximum	4.7 m
Draft at full load	2.3 m
Light displacement	50.0 t.
Engine power	145 HP
Under engine speed	9 knots
Sail area	245.0 m2
Number of beds	10 pieces.
Passenger capacity	20 people
Fuel supply	1500 l.
Fresh water supply	1500 l.

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Description:

The purpose of creating a two-masted sailing schooner of the Grumant-58 project was to build a cruise and tourist vessel that combines the appearance of an old sailing ship with the reliability and comfort of a modern yacht.

Two small mail schooners of the end of the 18th century from the album of drawings of the famous Swedish shipbuilder Chapman were chosen as a prototype. At the same time, the project was based on modern requirements for strength, habitability and seaworthiness.

Five vessels have been built so far this project. During the period of operation since 1992, the schooners have proven their reliability in all weather conditions and attractiveness in terms of their use as cruising and tourist yachts.

The ship's hull is wooden. Oak and selected shipbuilding pine are used as the main materials. The hull has a single-layer sheathing on a laminated longitudinal and transverse framing. To ensure unsinkability, the ship is divided into 4 compartments by watertight bulkheads.

In the stern are equipped: a four-seat cockpit of the team, a latrine of the team, a navigator's place. There is also an entrance to the engine room.

In the central part of the vessel there are four double cabins, a spacious salon, a galley and a latrine. A shower system is installed in each latrine, equipped according to the requirements of international convection for marine pollution from ships. All ship furniture is made of natural wood.

In the bow there is a forepeak used for storing ship's property.

The vessel has a fresh water system (cold and hot), an outboard water system, a waste-fan system, and a dehumidification system. The vessel is controlled from the upper deck using a tiller or steering wheel by means of a hydraulic drive. The anchor device includes a chain box, an electric windlass, an anchor-plow, and, as a tribute to the appearance of an old sailboat, a hand-made wooden windlass made according to old drawings, and two Admiralty anchors with wooden rods.

Sailing equipment with a total area of 245 sq.m. is quite efficient and provides speed up to 9 knots. The ship handles well under sail. The rigging is made of natural sisal and manila ropes, the sails are made of synthetic fabric. Three people are enough to control the sails. Required by modern requirements stability is ensured by internal ballast weighing 15 tons.

Electrical equipment includes a group of two batteries, lamps, navigation lights, electrical panel, charger and power cable from the shore. In addition to the main 12V network, the vessel is provided with a 220V network.

The ship is equipped with navigational equipment according to the wishes of the Customer.

The schooner of the Grumant-58 project can be equipped for use as a training sailboat.

With this model of a pirate schooner, the imagination draws the dangerous 18th century, when there were many pirates at sea, who, on their fast schooners, overtook defenseless merchant ships. And then the merchants did not expect mercy!

ship blueprint

Suggested schooner drawings made in 1:60 scale, which gives the length of the model 780 mm. On two drawings(format 90x70 and 70x50 cm) You will find a full-size side view of the ship under sail, patterns of frame parts and spars drawings. TO ship drawings attached step-by-step instruction on 16 pages. Instructions for English language. In total, it contains more than 50 schemes for assembling the model. Unfortunately, there is no top view of the deck anywhere, so you will have to make some elements according to your taste. The main materials needed to build a model of this ship: plywood 5 and 1 mm thick; pear slats 0.5x3 mm, linden slats 1x5 mm, walnut slats 0.5x3 mm, guns about 40 mm long (AM4169 guns, 8 pieces will do), light threads 0.5 mm.

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