Textile production technology. Fabric manufacturing business. Federal Agency for Education

The choice of a method for forming a suit largely depends on the type of material and its fibrous composition. Currently developed many modern materials allowing you to create complex shapes and various effects. The expansion of the assortment and the increase in the production of textile fibers are carried out in several directions:

improving the properties of fibers for a wide range of applications due to their modification - increasing comfort and mechanical properties;

creation of superfibers with special properties for a narrower purpose (ultra-strong, super-elastic, ultra-thin, etc.);

creation of interactive fibers that actively "respond" to changes in external conditions (heat, lighting, mechanical stress, etc.);

development of new technologies for the production of synthetic fibers from reproducible (natural) raw materials in order to reduce dependence on the reduction of oil and gas reserves;

the use of biotechnology to synthesize new types of fiber-forming polymers and improve the quality of natural fibers.

A widely used method aimed at changing and improving the properties of fibers is their modification. There are various ways to physically and chemically modify fibers. One of the directions of physical (structural) modification of fibers - profiling of fibers is achieved by using dies with holes of various shapes: a triangle, a trefoil, a multi-beam asterisk, a double rhombus, slit-like different configurations, etc. This method of modifying the surface of the fibers imparts a roughness, increased tenacity. Due to this, threads and materials from such fibers acquire increased bulk and porosity.

Methods for producing multilayer fibers (up to 100 film layers) have been developed in the USA and Japan. Such fibers are capable of changing gloss and hue and saturation when changing light or angle of view, and even have a holographic effect.

Segment-type bicomponent fibers made of multi-shrink polymers after heat treatment acquire stable crimp, reaching 100%. Combined fibers can be obtained by deposition on the finished fiber (substrate) of various polymers from solutions or melts, forming a "jacket" of any thickness on its surface. In particular, low-melting layers of a binder polymer used to produce nonwoven materials are deposited on the surface of cellulosic and chemical fibers.

In recent decades, one of the main directions of improving and improving the quality of chemical fibers has been the creation of ultrafine fibers [Buzov, Alymenkova, 2004], allowing you to create a certain texture (surface) of the material: the effect of "peach skin", suede surface, velvety, soft silky surface , approaching the carcass of natural silk. Fibers and materials that "give pleasure", pleasant for all senses in foreign special literature, are called "high-touch".

Control questions

1. Definition of the concept of "suit tectonics".

2. Types of tectonic systems of the suit.

3. Distinctive features of the tectonic systems of the suit.

4. Methods of shaping the suit shell systems.

5. Examples of frame systems in a suit.

6. The system of connections between the elements of the suit form.

7. Factors affecting the ability of fabrics to form.

8. Methods of forming and fixing the shape of clothing parts.

9. Ways to expand the range of textile fibers.

10. New textile fibers and materials.

This section presents theoretical materials on the technology of textile production.

Preparatory production. Processing of fibers to yarn
In preparatory production, the fiber comes in pressed bales. Before yarn is obtained from the fiber, the fiber itself undergoes additional processing - the bale is loosened, the fibers are frayed, combed, roving is obtained on roving frames, and yarn is obtained from the roving. Rotor spinning machines allow yarn to be produced directly from belts, bypassing the roving transition.

The main purpose of the spinning process is to obtain a textile thread (yarn) from a scattered mass of cotton fibers. At the same time, the yarn must meet certain physical and mechanical properties and meet the required quality standards. Depending on the purpose of the yarn, there are also different ways of producing it, different spinning systems - carded, combed, hardware, melange.

Basic concepts about the process and technology of weaving. Theory and practice of fabric formation on a weaving machine - a technological scheme of weaving production from yarn production to finishing finished fabrics, requirements for processes.

Technological diagram of the process of rewinding the main yarn, the purpose and essence of rewinding. Winding machines and automatic winding machines: their classification, main working bodies, technological and kinematic diagrams. Yarn rewinding equipment performance. Car service.

Technological diagram of the warping process of the main yarn, the purpose and essence of warping. Common warping methods and equipment: batch warping machine, flying warping machine. Requirements for the process. Equipment performance and maintenance.

Flow chart of the process of sizing the base yarn, the purpose and essence of sizing. Materials for the preparation of the adhesive composition - dressings. The device of sizing machines and glue machines. Requirements for the process. Equipment performance and maintenance. The main parameters of sizing are drawing, gluing.

Methods and types of base parting, parting machines. Warp tying technology: stationary and mobile knotting machines, their performance. Defects and waste of yarn when tying warp yarns. Refueling of warp threads on machine tools due to a change in the range of products.

Rewinding of weft yarn, its moistening and additional moistening. Weaving and winding machines, their technological and kinematic diagrams, productivity. Waste and defects when rewinding a duck. Improving the physical and mechanical properties of the weft yarn before using it in weaving.

Bodies and mechanisms of looms, their classification. The essence of the process of obtaining fabric on a loom, through the mutual interweaving of longitudinal (main) and transverse (weft) threads. Methods for inserting the weft thread into the throat formed by the warp threads.

Clothing industry. Requirements for the range of clothing and fabrics in the garment industry. The main assortment of garments produced by Russian enterprises. Sewing accessories. The use of garments in the textile industry.

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Introduction

Light industry occupies an important place in the structure industrial production country. Favorable conditions have developed for its development in the republic. First, the availability of our own raw materials (flax fiber, chemical fibers, raw hides, etc.); secondly, the provision of highly qualified personnel, a sufficient number of female hands, the demand for which in the industry is especially high; thirdly, a capacious market for products both in the republic itself and abroad. textile cotton spinning

The leading branch of the republic's industry is textile. The textile industry is an industry that produces threads, fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics from natural and chemical fibers. In 1997. its share was 4.2% of all industrial production. It has more than 100 enterprises producing products for both personal and industrial use. A special place is occupied by the linen, cotton, silk and woolen industries. Fabrics are produced in all areas, but how they general production and individual species are quite differentiated across the territory. Suffice it to say that almost 4/5 of all fabrics in the republic come from the enterprises of the Gomel, Mogilev and Vitebsk regions.

Of all types of fabrics produced in Belarus in 1998, silk were the main ones (26%). They were produced by enterprises of Mogilev, Vitebsk, Kobrin and others. Cotton fabrics, which ranked second in the total output, were produced mainly in Baranovichi and Mogilev. Their production is based entirely on imported cotton fiber. The linen industry, in contrast to the cotton, mainly relies on domestic raw materials, and was developed in Orsha, partly in Mogilev. The production of woolen fabrics due to the difficulties of raw materials supply has sharply decreased (in 1990-1998, almost 5 times) and is represented mainly by enterprises in Minsk and Grodno. The dominant position in the production of carpets and rugs is occupied by the enterprises of Brest and Vitebsk.

The textile industry includes the following industries:

* Cotton industry producing cotton and semi-cotton fabrics. These fabrics are made from yarns made from cotton fibers or blends of cotton with chemical fibers;

* Woolen industry producing woolen and semi-woolen fabrics. These fabrics are made from yarns made from wool fibers. of various kinds or from blends of wool with chemical fibers;

* Bast industry, producing linen, semi-linen fabrics, from other bast fibers of fabric;

* Silk industry that produces silk fabrics from natural silk threads, from man-made yarns, yarns from man-made fibers.

1. Characteristics of the received products

In the textile industry, the leading sub-industry is cotton. The products of this sub-industry - cotton fabrics - have been in high demand in recent years. To meet the growing needs of the population in cotton fabrics and to constantly improve their quality and expand the range of products, the cotton industry must develop at a high rate. In this case, the growth in the production of fabrics will be achieved mainly not by building new enterprises, but by improving the work of existing ones: increasing the productivity of labor and equipment, improving the conditions and organization of labor, automation and mechanization of production.

In recent years, an increasing amount of chemical fibers has been processed in the cotton industry, mainly in a mixture with cotton, which gives the fabrics from these mixtures new valuable properties.

The production of cotton fabrics from cotton fibers is complex and laborious process... From the moment cotton is picked from cotton plantations to the packaging of finished fabrics, it undergoes numerous operations, first in ginneries and then in textile mills. Cotton fiber has a number of remarkable properties that make it possible to obtain high quality fabrics, knitwear, threads and other products from it.

Textile cotton factories can be different types: factories that include all three industries - spinning, weaving and finishing; separate factories - spinning, weaving and finishing or combinations of two industries, i.e. either spinning and weaving or weaving and finishing factories.

The task of spinning mills is to obtain a textile thread from a mass of cotton fibers, a yarn, from which various textile products can be obtained in the future: fabric, knitwear, nonwovens, threads, etc. and twists of textile fibers.

The textile industry produces products of groups A and B. Cotton, linen, wool, silk, used directly for the production of household and technical fabrics, and fabrics going to sewing enterprises for the production of clothing belong to group A. Fabrics, threads, cotton wool, wadding , knitwear and other products sold in trade belong to group B.

Depending on the product range selected in the project, the yarn grade must also be selected. The challenge is to select such sorting of cotton, chemical fibers and such a technological process at the factory that minimum costs for raw materials and processing, to produce yarn corresponding to GOST.

There are two types of yarn requirements: technological and operational. Technological requirements determine the ability of the yarn to be well processed in the production of fabrics and other products, and operational requirements determine the ability of the yarn to have certain properties in the product (fabric) when worn.

The yarn must meet the following requirements:

* have a given linear density with minimal deviations and be even in length, both on small and large sections. Otherwise, the quality of fabrics decreases, the process of their production deteriorates, or cotton is overused;

* have a given strength and minimum unevenness in strength.

* have a given elongation and tensile stiffness with minimal deviations from these indicators in length. Elongation, especially elastic, and stiffness largely determine the structure of the fabric and operational properties;

* have a given twist and be uniform in twist. Due to the fact that many properties of the yarn depend on its twist, compliance with this requirement is of great importance;

* be clean, with a minimum amount of foreign matter and defects in appearance.

Violation of these requirements leads to increased yarn breakage during processing and a decrease in the quality of products.

It should be borne in mind that the cost of raw materials in the cost of yarn is about 70-75% and the optimal choice of raw materials for the production of yarn of the required quality is of great importance.

Yarn is a finished product of the spinning industry and therefore its quality control, as opposed to the control of semi-finished product, is more important. Each type of yarn must meet certain requirements, which are recorded in state standards or technical conditions... However, during its production, for various reasons, defects (defects) appear on the yarn, which reduce its quality. Special methods have been developed to assess the quality of the yarn. The quality of the yarn is assessed by physical and mechanical parameters and defects in appearance. In addition, the quality of yarn winding on a package - a bobbin, a bobbin is evaluated.

Each group of yarn has its own standards. According to GOST 4.8-68, all types of yarn produced by the cotton method are divided into the following groups for their intended purpose: for weaving, knitting and hosiery production; for textile and haberdashery production (basic, weft, patterned); for thread production and technical purposes.

To ensure the production of high quality yarns, certain ratios between yarn and fiber linear densities must be observed. This ratio determines the number of fibers across the yarn, which should be no more than 70-90.

An increase in the number of fibers in all cases has positive influence on the quality of the yarn, therefore, yarns intended for high quality fabrics should be made from finer fibers. The correctness of the choice of raw materials is checked using the formula of Professor A.N. Solovyov, describing the relationship between the properties of cotton yarn and the properties of cotton fiber from which it is produced.

Cotton fiber, according to GOST, comes in 7 grades, first, second, third, fourth, fifth and sixth grades. The definition of fiber grade is based on its maturity, strength, length, moisture content and contamination.

Cotton fiber is used to make fabrics, threads, cotton wool, gauze, knitwear, fishing tackle, ropes, driving belts, artificial silk, paper, tracing paper, tape for the manufacture of explosives, various artificial materials that replace amber, bronze, copper, etc. From seeds cotton plants produce oil and other products.

The textile industry provides fabrics for defense, chemical, engineering, electromechanical, automotive, aviation and other industries, construction, transport, agriculture.

2. Characteristics of the raw materials used

2.1 Classification of textile fibers and the concept of fibers

Textile materials are materials that are composed of textile fibers. These materials include the fibers themselves, threads, as well as products from them.

Textile fibers are elongated flexible and strong bodies with very small transverse dimensions, limited length, suitable for the manufacture of yarns and textiles.

Fibers are divided into elemental and technical. Elementary fibers are called single fibers, indivisible into smaller ones, and technical fibers are complex ones, consisting of several elementary fibers glued together. Both those and other fibers have a relatively limited length - several tens or hundreds of millimeters.

A filament is a filament several tens and hundreds of meters long.

Textile threads are thin, flexible and strong bodies of indefinitely long length, consisting of filaments or filaments joined together and suitable for the manufacture of textiles.

A textile thread obtained by twisting sequentially located more or less straightened elementary or complex fibers is called a yarn. A thread that is obtained by connecting and twisting filaments is called a complex thread.

In nature, there are a large number of different fibers, however, in order to be used in the textile industry, they must have certain properties: first of all, considerable strength, flexibility, have a rough surface, and abrasion resistance. In addition to the general properties - elasticity, strength, wear resistance, the ability to paint, etc. - various fibers also have specific properties, which determines their field of application.

Based on their origin and chemical composition, textile fibers are divided into natural and chemical.

Natural fibers include fibers that are formed in nature without direct human participation and consist mainly of organic heterochain natural high molecular weight compounds.

Chemical fibers include those produced in the factory and consisting mainly of organic hetero-chain and carbo-chain synthetic high-molecular compounds and a very small part of their natural inorganic compounds.

Natural fibers are divided into three groups: vegetable fibers (cotton, flax, hemp, kenaf, sisal, etc.), animal or protein fibers (wool, silk) and inorganic, mineral origin.

Consider plant fibers.

Cotton is the most important textile fiber that covers the seeds of the cotton plant grown in hot climates. After the cotton is ripe, the fibers, together with the seeds, are collected and sent to the primary cotton processing plants, where the fiber is separated from the seeds. Cotton fiber has a number of remarkable properties: great flexibility, tenacity, very small thickness, but great strength and wear resistance. In addition, the fiber dyes well. The length of the fibers is relatively uniform and reaches 25-40 mm.

These properties make it possible to obtain a wide variety of yarns from cotton fibers: from thick yarns for the production of coarse and various furniture and clothing fabrics to very thin, from which fine fine fabrics such as maya, cambric, marquise or percale-type fabrics for technical purposes are produced.

Bast fibers are found in the stems, leaves or shell of fruits of various plants. In the textile industry, mainly stem bast fibers are used, the most important of which is flax. In the domestic industry, flax occupies 95-97% of bast fibers.

Bast fibers are located in bundles in the bark of flax, hemp and other plants. To trim the fibers from the bark, plants must go through a long natural lobe, then they are exposed to heat or chemical processing, then they are crumpled and then exposed to scuttle. This process is very complex and lengthy.

In terms of properties, linseed and other bast fibers differ from cotton. They are strong, but coarser and thicker, especially technical ones. The length of the bast fibers is greater than the length of the cotton ones, but has a great unevenness. Therefore, thicker yarn is obtained from bast fibers than from cotton. High-quality linen yarn is used to produce towels, table and bed linen, dress and technical fabrics. Coarser linen yarn and their other fibers (hemp, kenaf, jute) are used to produce container and sack fabrics, as well as ropes and ropes.

Natural fibers of plant origin include wool and silk.

Wool is the fiber that covers the skin of sheep, goats and camels. Distinguish between natural, factory and reconditioned wool. The first is obtained as a result of shearing animals, the second - when finishing animal skins and the third - when processing recycled wool.

Wool fibers are longer than cotton fibers, less durable, but more resilient. Due to this, woolen fabrics have a number of valuable properties - low wrinkle, wear resistance and drape, i.e. ability to maintain good shape, initially a given product from these fabrics. Two types of yarn are made from woolen fibers: woolen yarn - thick, soft, with low strength, used for the manufacture of coat and woolen fabrics, and worsted - thin, even, durable, used for the manufacture of dress and suit fabrics and knitwear.

Silk is the thin thread produced by the caterpillar of the silkworm butterfly. Silk threads have remarkable properties. They are strong, even, resilient and have a pleasant appearance... To obtain a textile thread from them, it is enough to twist together several elementary threads (fibers). However, only half of the cocoons can be unwound. The other part forms waste, which is processed into yarn in silk mills. Light beautiful dress fabrics, as well as technical ones, are made from silk threads.

Asbestos also belongs to natural fibers.

Asbestos is a mineral fiber that makes up some rocks. Asbestos fibers are 16-18 mm long, so only thick yarns can be obtained from them. Spinning of asbestos can be carried out either in pure form or mixed with cotton. Asbestos fibers do not burn, conduct heat poorly, therefore they are mainly used for the manufacture of refractory fabrics, gaskets and insulation.

Chemical fibers include artificial and synthetic. All man-made fibers are delivered to textile enterprises in the form of staple-short fibers of the appropriate length or in the form of endless threads into a complex one. Artificial fibers are obtained from the processing of natural raw materials - cellulose, wood, cotton fluff and cotton waste.

The most common of the man-made fibers is rayon, which is processed in the cotton industry in the form of a 36-40 staple length. Viscose fibers are smooth, easily processed, dyed, have a low cost, but are durable, especially when wet; used mainly in cotton blends, but also in pure form.

Besides, chemical industry produce the following artificial fibers: acetate, triacetate, copper-ammonia (in a small volume). All artificial fibers are high molecular weight organic compounds.

Synthetic fibers are obtained from the synthesis of refined petroleum products, coal and natural gas. Glass fibers are made from soda lime glass. Most of the synthetic fibers are high molecular weight compounds (nylon, lavsan, nitron).

The most widespread of synthetic fibers is the nylon polyamide compound. This fiber has great strength, it can be made of various linear density, its strength when wet is almost unchanged. Various dress and technical fabrics, knitwear are made from nylon.

Lavsan fiber is a polyester high molecular weight compound and is produced in the main form of a staple, but also in the form of a thread. Possesses good textile properties: high strength, elasticity, relatively high melting point. Lavsan staple fiber is most often used in a mixture with natural and chemical fibers, which gives the fabrics low creasing, wear resistance, and a beautiful appearance. The most common fabrics are for dress, for men's shirts (cotton-lavsan), for suit half-woolen, as well as for raincoats.

Nitron fiber is a polyacrylonitrile compound and is used mainly as a staple in a mixture with natural fibers. Nitron, in comparison with nylon and lavsan, has less strength, but it has wool. This property increases the heat-shielding properties and gives them a pleasant appearance. In its pure form, nitron is used mainly for the manufacture of technical fabrics.

Characteristic feature synthetic fibers is their inability to absorb moisture, which is accompanied by mechanical stress on the fibers by the appearance of static electricity.

2.2 Physical mechanical properties fiber

The physical and mechanical properties of cotton fiber include: linear density (thickness), length, strength, elongation and elasticity, resistance to abrasion, bending, compression, twisting and sliding of the fiber along the fiber, hygroscopicity, color, electrical and thermal conductivity.

Linear density is one of the most important properties of a fiber. This value shows how much a fiber of a certain length has. Linear density is measured in units called tex.

Tex is the mass in grams per kilometer of fiber (yarn) or milligrams per meter (g / km, mg / m).

The linear density of the fiber ultimately determines its transverse dimensions.

The larger the area cross section fiber, the higher its linear density. The density of the cotton substance is 1.5 g / cm 3.

The linear density of the fibers is very important. The strength of yarns made from fibers depends on the strength of the fibers themselves and on the frictional forces between them. And these forces will be the greater, the more contacts between the fibers in its cross section, which in turn depends on the number of fibers. Consequently, the thinner the fibers, i.e. the lower their linear density, the more of them will be in the cross section of a given yarn and the stronger the yarn will be. On the other hand, the finer the fibers, the finer yarn with normal tenacity can be obtained from them.

The length of the fiber is also very important characteristic cotton, which determines its quality. The longer the fiber, the more it comes into contact with other fibers in the yarn and the more difficult it is to pull them apart. Consequently, longer fibers can produce a stronger yarn of the same linear density or, on the other hand, thinner yarns with normal tenacity can be obtained from longer fibers. In this case, we are talking about a certain abstract length of the fiber.

The strength of a fiber is its ability to withstand tensile forces. To assess the strength, the value of the breaking load is used, that is, the greatest force that the fiber can withstand before breaking. The breaking load of the fiber is determined using dynamometers of the DSh-ZM2 type.

To compare the strength of fibers of different linear density, not absolute, but relative strength is used. For this breaking load must be referred to the unit of cross-sectional area of the fiber or its linear density. To assess the relative strength of the fibers, the breaking length of the fiber is used, that is, the length at which the fiber mass is numerically equal to its breaking load.

To assess the quality of cotton fibers as a raw material for yarn production, the uniformity of its basic properties is of great importance.

The uniformity of the fibers is of great importance for the production of yarn, since the more uniform the fibers, the easier it is to produce uniform yarn from them, which in turn largely determines the productivity of the processes of its processing and the quality of the fabrics produced.

Elongation and elasticity are also important properties of fibers. When tensile forces are applied to the fiber, it lengthens, that is, it receives deformation.

There are two types of deformation: reversible, which in turn includes elastic and elastic, and irreversible, or plastic.

Elongation (elasticity) is associated with small changes in the distances between the polymer particles that make up the fibers, and immediately disappears after removal of the load.

Elastic is an elongation (deformation) that disappears after removing the load not immediately, but over time.

Plastic (residual) elongation does not disappear even after removing the load. Elastic elongation is associated with a change in the configuration and rearrangement of fiber polymer macromolecules. Plastic elongation is caused by the fact that irreversible displacements occur over relatively large distances between the units of macromolecules.

Elongation of fibers and especially elasticity is a very valuable property. The more a fiber is lengthened under a given load, the better it will withstand sudden impacts. The higher the elastic elongation of the fiber, the better the fiber withstands multiple loads and the longer it retains its appearance and properties of a product made from it.

Of great importance are also such mechanical properties of fibers as resistance to abrasion, compression, bending and sliding of one fiber over another. The abrasion resistance of fibers is important for two reasons. First, yarns made from fibers with greater abrasion resistance will be better processed into fabric on a loom, where they are subjected to multiple abrasion stresses. Secondly, a product (fabric) made of such fibers will have longer term socks.

The resistance to compression is important for the transport of cotton, as the loose mass is pressed into bales.

The slip resistance of fibers is determined by their surface and the shape of the fibers themselves. In other words, slip resistance depends on the coefficient of friction and fiber tenacity. The larger these values, the more force must be applied to pull the fibers in the yarn. Therefore, when the yarn breaks, it will only break when the fibers break. If the fibers were completely smooth, that is, there were no friction forces between them, then it would be impossible to get yarn from them.

Cotton fiber has a relatively high coefficient of friction and high tenacity. Therefore, high quality yarns of a wide variety of linear densities are obtained from cotton. The mutual adhesion of cotton fibers is facilitated by their crimp, which in mature fibers reaches an average of 70-100 crimps per 1 cm.

Of the physical properties of fibers, the most important are hygroscopicity, color, thermal and electrical conductivity.

Hygroscopicity is the property of a material to change its moisture content depending on humidity and temperature. environment... Fibers contain a certain amount of moisture. With an increase in air humidity or an increase in its temperature, the moisture content of the fibers increases, and vice versa. If a fiber has this property, then it is hygroscopic. This remarkable property of the fibers largely determines the hygienic and performance properties of fabrics.

The thermal conductivity of cotton fiber is low and it is the lower, the looser the mass. This property is used in particular for the manufacture of cotton batting.

When dry, cotton fiber has low electrical conductivity, which allows cotton fabrics to be used as insulation. With increasing humidity, the electrical conductivity increases. Mechanical stress on cotton generates electrostatic charges, which make it difficult to process. Therefore, factories are fighting this phenomenon.

3. Characteristics of production technology

3.1 Concept of spinning

In the textile industry, cotton, linen, wool, natural silk and chemical fibers are processed into products. The set of technological processes used to process these fibers into yarns of a certain thickness and strength is called spinning.

The set of machines and processes by which fibers are processed into a particular type of yarn is called a spinning system.

3.2 Spinning systems

To obtain yarn from a mass of fibers, cotton must undergo several processing operations. Cotton arrives at spinning mills in a compressed form. After pretreatment at primary processing plants, cotton is cleaned of large weeds and seeds. However, it still contains a large amount of small impurities, as well as damaged (short) fibers. Individual fibers in this mass of cotton are entangled, interconnected in the form of shreds or with weeds. Therefore, the task of all cotton spinning operations includes the subsequent cleaning, loosening and mixing of the fibers, and then combing them in order to parallelize, level and form a gradually thinning product (canvas, ribbon and roving), in order to twist a ribbon of parallel fibers and obtain yarn at the final stage given properties.

The first stage of processing involves loosening the cotton, mixing and cleaning. For this, the mass of cotton from the bale is fed by the feeding grids of the loosening units to the working bodies. Here the cotton is exposed to needles or large, easily removable impurities. The trash impurities through the grates fall into the carbon monoxide chambers, and the loosened cotton mass by pneumatic or mechanical feeders goes to the next sections of the loosening and scutching unit. Cotton comes out of the loosening and scutching unit in the form of a canvas - a compacted layer of cotton in the form of a roll. The canvas must be of a certain thickness. Cotton fibers in the canvas are in a chaotic state in the form of scraps and, in addition, cotton contains a certain amount of small, hard-to-remove trash impurities.

The next operation that takes place on a card is called carding. The cotton is delivered to the machine in the form of a linen or a loosened mass (non-linen feeding). On a carding machine, the mass of fiber is first exposed to the teeth of the serrated tape and rollers, and then to the thin needles of the set of the working parts of the machine. As a result of this, cotton scraps are combed into separate fibers with simultaneous cleaning from tenacious impurities and short fibers. After carding, a tape is formed from a partially parallelized thin fleece (carded) of fibers, which is a long loose round semi-finished product with a diameter of 1-3 cm.In the tape, the fibers are combed, almost not connected to each other, but not straightened and weakly oriented relative to the axis of the tape. The tape itself is uneven in thickness.

For straightening the fibers and straightening the tape, complex multiple tapes are produced, and then the folded product is thinned to the thickness of the original tapes. As a result of folding, the straps are aligned, since the thickened sections are folded into thinned ones. With the subsequent thinning of the product, the fibers are straightened and oriented relative to the axis of the tape. Thinning occurs due to stretching of the product when it passes through pairs of cylinders pressed against each other (exhaust pairs) and the speed of the previous pair is less than the next.

The task of the next transition is to thin the thread to a size suitable for yarn production. This operation is carried out on roving frames, where the product is thinned on a drafting device. The product of the roving transition is called roving. This is a thin ribbon, which is given a slight twist to give minimal strength.

The last final yarn-making operation takes place on the spinning machines. Here the product - roving - is stretched to the thickness of the yarn, twisted, and a thin and strong yarn is obtained. The spinning process is carried out either on ring spinning machines with spindles and runners, or on spindleless rotor machines.

The described sequence of processing cotton into spinning mill called carded (normal). This system produces most of the cotton yarn. Table 1 shows the stages of processing, technological processes and equipment used for processing cotton fiber into yarn using a carded spinning system.

There is also combed, hardware and melange systems. Carded and combed systems have two spinning methods: ring spinning and rotor spinning.

The hardware system is now beginning to be replaced by a carding system, in which rotary rotor or aerodynamic spinning machines are used.

The melange system, in principle, repeats the carded one, but has additional transitions associated with dyeing cotton.

The combed system produces yarns of low linear density or medium, but with increased strength. For the production of such (combed) yarn, fine-fiber varieties of cotton are used. Compared to carded yarns, combed yarns are stronger, more even, smoother and cleaner. To obtain such a yarn, a combing transition is additionally added to the process. At this transition, the fibers are combed (combing), as a result of which short fibers (stripping) are combed out of the product and removed. The sliver coming out of the comber is made up of long, even, well-straightened fibers, resulting in high quality yarns.

In order for the combing process to take place without excessive loss of long fibers and their damage, the latter must be sufficiently straightened, and the product entering the machine must be uniform. Therefore, the strip from the cards undergoes two additional preparatory operations: joining into laps of 16-20 strips and stretching (thinning) of the laps.

The comb system has a processing sequence shown in Table 2.

The hardware system produces loose fluffy yarn with low strength; the quality of this yarn is subject to reduced requirements. Fibers of various lengths, a large amount of waste (waste), as well as mixtures of their various fibers are used as raw materials. In the latter case, the loosening and scattering of the components is sometimes carried out separately, and then there is mixing with simultaneous oiling of the fibers. A characteristic feature of the hardware system is that the thinning of the product after carding does not occur in the process of pulling it out, but by dividing the fleece (fleece) into separate belts and obtaining rovings from them with slight twisting of the belts. Carding with this system is carried out on carding machines, which include 2-3 carding transitions and a roving carriage. The resulting roving is transferred to the spinning machine. In the roving obtained on the carding apparatus, the fibers are weakly straightened, which determines the loose structure of the yarn.

The melange system produces yarn, consisting of a mixture of cotton, dyed in different colors in one color. With this system, the loosened fiber is dyed in apparatuses, dried and fed back to the loosening machines. After that, the fiber is mixed, scuttled and all subsequent operations of one of the described spinning systems.

3.3 Loosening and scattering

The purpose of the processes and the requirements for them.

In bales, the fibers are strongly compressed and therefore tightly connected with each other and with trash impurities. Fibers, even in one bale, are uneven in their properties, the more they differ in different batches that make up the mixture. In order to prepare cotton for further processing, it is subjected to opening, cleaning, mixing and beating. Thus, the purpose of the loosening-scuttle transition is as follows:

1.division of the compressed mass of fibers from the bales into small pieces;

2. the release of trash impurities and fibers that are not suitable for spinning;

3. mixing of fibers;

4. Creation of a uniform flow of cotton in the form of a canvas or loose mass.

This process has certain requirements:

A high degree of cleaning cotton from weeds, good mixing of fibers, no ignition of the fibers and the creation of a product (canvas) of greater uniformity, since it is difficult to obtain ribbon and then yarn of good quality from uneven canvas.

The division of the mass of fibrous material into shreds is achieved first by plucking it with the needles of the gratings, and then by blows of the working bodies of the loosening and scutching machines. Removal of trash impurities also occurs by striking the working bodies on the cotton scraps and sucking them off with air. Stirring of the pulp occurs due to the uniform supply of the components of the mixture (cotton from different bales) into the machines, by repeatedly reloading the mass of cotton in the chambers of the machine or by overlaying several layers one on top of the other. To create an even flow of cotton, there are special mechanisms on the scutching machines.

General device and principle of operation of machines for loosening-scutching transition.

Depending on the nature of the cotton being processed, machines of different designs and in different combinations can be included in the opening-scutching unit. There are machines for processing medium staple cotton (carded spinning system) and fine staple cotton (combed spinning system).

For the carded spinning system, there are currently two types of aggregates: a new single-process one with automatic cotton feeding and an old one with manual feeding.

On the new unit, the bales are completely loaded into automatic feeders, the pre-loosened cotton goes to continuous mixers, where fibers of different batches are mixed, then in the inclined cleaners and the inclined cleaners with a condenser, further loosening and cleaning of the debris takes place. The cotton flow is directed to the bins of the scutching machines.

3.4 Scratching

After loosening, mixing and scuttling, the cotton mixture still contains a part of weeds, the fibers are not completely separated from one another, are entangled and make up separate small shreds. Further scattering does not allow to completely separate the fibers and prepare the cotton for further technological operations of yarn production. Therefore, the next transition is the process of carding cotton.

Purpose of the carding process and the requirements for it

In the process of carding, the cotton shreds are divided into individual fibers; cleaning cotton from trash impurities remaining in it and partial removal of short fibers; partial straightening and parallelization of the fibers; and finally, the thinning of the product and the formation of the ribbon.

The fulfillment of these tasks occurs due to the use of a special headset in carding machines - a serrated metal tape with teeth or an elastic tape with flexible thin needles. Interacting with each other and with the fibrous mass, the working bodies, covered with the specified set, pull the fibers out of the shreds, separate them from trash impurities, including tenacious ones, and arrange the fibers more or less parallel in the output product - a carding tape.

The comb transition has a great influence on the further process of yarn production, since it is here that an almost finished semi-finished product is formed. In addition, in this process, the removal of trash impurities ends, and all the remaining fibers already enter the yarn. Thus, the main task of the carding process is to obtain a product - a combed tape with a minimum amount of trash impurities, with a high degree of separation of the complexes and good straightening and parallelization of fibers, and most importantly, high flatness of the tape.

At spinning mills, mainly flat carding machines are used, which can be divided into three groups: large (normal) carding machines such as ChMS-450, small-sized carding machines such as ChMM-14 and new double-drum carding machines such as ChMD-4, which ensure high ribbon quality. ... Roller cards are also used.

General device and principle of operation of carding machines

On carding machines of any type, with continuous carding, the process consists of three sequential operations: thinning the product (canvas) and removing large trash impurities, carding the fibers with toothed and needle surfaces and removing the carding and forming a ribbon.

We will show the device and principle of operation of the carding machine using the example of the ChMM-14 machine, which has received the greatest distribution in recent years (Figure 3.3). The canvas is laid between two canvas racks and the canvas roller 2, rotating, rolls it out and feeds it to the feed table 3 under the feed cylinder 4. The feed cylinder feeds the canvas to the receiving unit, where it is sequentially developed by the drums - the receiving 5 and the transmitting 6 and the working rollers pairs - working 7 and cleaner 8. The fiber from the transfer drum 6 under the action of the serrated tape teeth goes to the main drum 9 and enters the carding zone: the main drum - hats. As a result of the interaction of cotton with the teeth of the tape of the main drum and the needles of the caps, there is an intensive separation of the fiber complexes into separate ones, as well as their parallelization and partial straightening. Hat strip 10 consists of 74 needle-coated caps (strips), of which 24 are in use.

The combed fiber from the main drum 9 goes to the removable drum 11. From the removable drum, the comb is removed by roller removal 12 and passes through the pressure rolls 13, under the action of which the trash impurities are crushed, followed by falling out of the cotton. Further, the carding enters the forming funnel 14, where the ribbon is formed, then into the drafting device 15.

The machine is equipped with self-stops, stopping it when the tape becomes thinner or breaks, the cover of the tape layer is opened, the space between the tape guide and the feed rollers is clogged with tape. In addition, the machine is equipped with a dedusting device with suction of dusty air and a mechanism for removing waste from under the machines.

3.5 Pre-spinning (obtaining roving)

The purpose of prespinning is to produce a thinner product from the belt called roving.

Rovnitsa is a thread that has a loose structure, a relatively high evenness and a certain thickness. Rovnits are made from ribbons.

The ribbons are heterogeneous in their structure and not uniform enough in thickness. The belts are very thick compared to rovings and yarns. In this regard, during the production of roving, the belts pass through a series of machines, on which the gradual leveling and thinning of the product by a factor of 5--20 or more, achieved by folding and stretching, continues. At the first transitions of the roving frame machines, the fibers are greased with an emulsion. Sizing increases fiber slip during pulling, reduces electrification and increases roving yield due to reduced fiber breakage and waste.

Previously, due to the lack of high-drawing devices, to obtain fine yarn, sequential processing of a semi-finished product was used on three to four roving frames.

Moreover, a thick roving was obtained from the first (pelvic) machine, and from subsequent transitions - a distillation, thin and extra-thin roving. Nowadays, thanks to the use of high-drawing devices on roving frames and spinning machines, it has become possible to produce yarns of small and medium thicknesses, with one roving transition or one-stage spinning directly from the ribbon.

3.6 Spinning

The purpose of spinning is to produce yarn from a semi-finished product (sliver and roving) entering the spinning department. The essence of spinning lies in the thinning of the incoming semi-product to a given linear density, in giving the resulting product (yarn) by means of twisting the required strength and forming by winding a certain package: a cob or a bobbin.

Spinning like the final stage obtaining yarn certain requirements are imposed.

The spinning process must provide high quality yarn that meets the technological and consumer properties.

The process should be as continuous as possible. With a high breakage, there is a decrease in the productivity of the machine and an increase in waste. The yarn produced at high breakage on the spinning machine is poorly processed in the weaving industry.

Depending on the methods of thinning and shaping the product (spinning methods), a distinction is made between ring or spindle and spindleless spinning machines. Ring spinning machines are subdivided into warp and weft spinning machines. On the basis of the machines, the yarn is wound on paper cartridges in packages (cobs) with a mass of 60-100 g., The yarn from the cobs is rewound into bobbins. On weft machines, the yarn is wound on wooden spools and used in this form directly on the weaving machine.

In recent years, ring spinning machines have appeared that provide a high degree of product thinning (drawing up to 60 or 100). On such machines, the semi-product can come in the form of a tape, bypassing the roving transition. Thus, ring spinning machines can be roving frame (conventional) and roving frameless.

Of the spinning-less spinning machines, pneumomechanical machines of the BD-200 type have found practical application in industry. machines for rotary spinning (rotor spinning), mechanical, electromechanical and hydraulic spinning methods are also being developed.

Spinning machines of any spinning method are designed to thin the product (ribbon or rovings) by pulling it on drawing devices of various designs, which provide drawing from 10 to 100; forming strong yarn from a sliver using a twisting mechanism - a spindle and a runner on circular machines and a pneumatic chamber on spindle-less machines and winding the produced yarn onto a package - a cob (spool) or a cylindrical bobbin.

3.7 developing a spinning plan

Selection of the spinning system, i.e. the choice of a certain range of machines on which the raw materials will be processed to obtain yarn are closely related to the development of a spinning plan.

The spinning plan is the main document of the spinning mill that defines the yarn production technology. It contains the master data defining the threading of the machines of all transitions to produce yarns of the required linear density and quality. The spinning plan determines the performance of all machines and their number.

Spinning plan and selection technological equipment carried out in parallel, since the technical capabilities of the machine affect the parameters of the spinning plan. On the other hand, changing individual parameters of the spinning plan sometimes necessitates a change to the earlier machine selection made.

The development of a spinning plan is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. selection and justification of the linear density of all semi-finished products, the number of additions and extracts carried out on the machines of all transitions.

2. selection and justification of the rate of release of the product on all machines, as well as the rotational speed of the spindles on the roving frame and spinning machines.

3. Calculation of the theoretical productivity of the machine, release, spindle, kg / h.

4. calculation of the output of one machine, release, spindle and other parameters.

To justify each parameter of the spinning plan, it is necessary to use technical literature and also know the experience of leading enterprises.

It is necessary to strive for the greatest use of the capacity of the exhaust devices, obtaining a high productivity of the equipment by increasing the frequency of rotation of the issuing bodies of the machines. Stretching and equipment speed should be selected within reasonable limits so that the quality of the product and the level of breakage in spinning would ensure economical use of raw materials, maximize yarn yield from cotton blend, sufficiently high service areas for key production workers and ultimately the minimum cost of yarn.

Optimal, i.e. The best spinning plan is one that requires the lowest capital equipment costs, provides the best working conditions, and ensures high product quality.

Literature

1. Fundamentals of technology of the most important industries: V 2. / Ed. I.V. Chentsova. "Higher school", Minsk, 1989.

2. Bukaev P.T. General technology of cotton production. "Light and food industry", M., 1981.

3. Smelova N.A., Kazaryan M. 3., Loktyusheva V.I. Cotton production technology, M., 1992.

4.S. Lothar, H. Manfred. Yarn preparation technology for weaving and knitting production. M., 1989.

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State participation in the development of the industry

The situation must change radically, and the government is already beginning to take steps to improve it. In particular, a strategy has been adopted aimed at the development of light industry in our country until 2020.

In turn, the state took seriously the problem of domestic production: support to enterprises is provided both in the field of financing and subsidizing the procurement of raw materials, and in the issue technical modernization production. This allows us to think that changes are inevitable, and small improvements can already be observed today, in 2014.

Textile industry in Russia: current state

Today the situation is such that the share of imported products in the Russian textile market still prevails. However, compared to the last decade, significant changes are noticeable in the direction of its decrease. Over the past 10-12 years, the Russian light industry has grown at a record pace, and at the moment domestic textile production is estimated at about 70-85 billion rubles.

The industry employs about 700 large and up to 5 thousand medium and small enterprises, the total production of which is about 200 billion rubles. At the same time, this segment is still underestimated by Russian investors, which means that it is high time to enter the market.

An average textile enterprise is now 20-30% cheaper than a food one with the same level of profitability. Those entrepreneurs and investors who pay attention to this line of business today will be able to reap a good "harvest" in a few years with the right approach to business. We will talk further about how to competently organize the production of textiles in our country.

Basic questions on the organization of textile production

Of course, to say that today is the most profitable business in Russia, it is still early. However, there is no doubt that the return on such production can be quite high, and in the long term. This area is suitable for strategic investors and entrepreneurs looking to the future.

Therefore, today it is important to approach the issue of organizing textile production from a completely new position, relying on innovation and relevance. What points need to be considered when creating own enterprise from scratch? The key factors are:

Organization of the design department. V modern world the work of these specialists is indispensable. One of the main conditions for high demand for your company's products will be the relevance and originality of the design of fabrics. Moreover, the development of new collections of textiles should be carried out regularly, and not one-time. Therefore, the plant / factory must necessarily have its own department with a group of designers working together and under the guidance of its owner.
Organization of production itself. This issue requires no less attention. Where and by whom the fabrics are made depends on the availability of sufficient investment. For example, some entrepreneurs create their own production workshop from scratch, while others place orders for finished designs between home workers. In addition, many fabric manufacturers in Russia locate their production in Chinese factories (due to the availability of cheap work force and good technical equipment).
To organize your own textile production, you need to obtain an appropriate certificate for your products, think over and plan the technology for making fabrics, purchase modern equipment and hire personnel (from cutters and sewing machine operators to an accountant).
To sell products, you will need to think about its transportation. If the enterprise is large, then you will need your own vehicle fleet. Small factories / workshops for the manufacture of textiles use the services of third parties.
Like any commercial activity, the textile business requires advertising. There should be several effective channels: your own website on the Internet, advertising blocks in specialized magazines, your own booklets with fabric samples. A good (and even mandatory) addition will be participation in exhibitions organized for representatives of this market segment. This will allow you to make useful contacts in your field, expand dealer and retail networks for more efficient sales of products.

All these points are important and, moreover, mandatory steps in building a truly successful textile production in modern Russia... None of them can be neglected if you really want to organize a highly profitable business that can not only survive, but also function effectively for a long time.

Textile technology and types of fabrics

Above, we examined the main issues that are important for every entrepreneur who decides to engage in the textile business in Russia. Now let's dwell in a little more detail on the actual production of fabrics. This process includes the selection of an assortment, the production technology itself and the necessary equipment for its implementation.

Types of fabrics and their features

All existing textiles are divided into large and smaller types. In general, fabrics can be divided into natural and chemical. The former can be of plant origin - cotton, flax, jute, etc., and the animal - silk, wool, etc. The latter are subdivided into synthetic, artificial and mineral.

Natural fabrics of plant origin

Cotton fabrics are made from a mixture of cotton and other fibers. This category is very common and has the highest demand in the segment of natural materials. They vary according to density and species. This is the well-known denim, calico, chintz, cloth, cambric and others. Linen fiber is less elastic than cotton fiber. Fabrics made from it have a rough surface and a more rigid structure, and their production is more expensive.

Animal textiles

The basis for making silk is the silkworm. This type of textile is distinguished by its elasticity and strength, and therefore is in great demand in production. It is used to obtain materials such as velvet, satin, etc. Russian manufacturers for the manufacture of woolen fabrics usually take sheep's wool. It retains heat well, does not absorb odors and moisture, and does not wrinkle well.

Chemical fabrics

Man-made fibers are also widely used in the modern textile industry. Viscose and acetate fabrics are light and smooth, have an attractive appearance and good hygiene properties. Polyamide materials are strong, durable, but absorb grease and repel moisture, and therefore are unhygienic. Polyester is in great demand, as it is used for the production of clothing.

Textile production technology

The key point that determines the entire production of textiles and the organization of its individual processes is the stage of fabrication itself. It consists of several basic steps, which we will now look at:

Preparation. Obtaining yarn from fibers by processing them - loosening, scuttling, combing.
Spinning coarse fiber. From scattered cotton fibers, a textile thread is obtained.
Immediate fabric production on weaving looms.
Final finishing procedure. As a result of this stage, the fabric acquires properties such as strength, softness, smoothness, waterproofness and others.

This is a general description, and each of the above steps has its own nuances.

Necessary equipment

At the same time, a large number of various equipment is involved in the process of making fabric at all steps. From the full-fledged obligatory for the organization production process can be distinguished:

roving frame;
loom;
weft-winding machine;
winding machines and automatic machines;
warping machine;
sizing machines;
glue boilers;
parting machines;
knotting machines.

As you can see, the list of equipment is impressive. Therefore, a fully functioning textile production requires a large area of premises, several warehouses (for raw materials and finished products), as well as a sufficient number of employees to service it and the organization of effective management.

Conclusion

Today the textile market is developing at a fairly good pace - at least 25% per year. This niche still needs competent entrepreneurs and large investments for the organization of modern equipment and the same approach to the implementation of production.

Textile making is very profitable business in Russia and will remain so for the next 7-10 years, and possibly longer. If you have not decided on the segment of capital investment and business organization, then now is the time to enter the textile market.

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